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From Vine to Wine

When in Italy, it’s hard not to get caught up in the production of wine. Grapes seem to grow everywhere with diverse types of soil, climate and winemaker contributions. Saturday afternoon, we headed to Leuta in Cortona, not only to sample wine but also to visit nature at its best.

Our friend Carlo was our guide as we headed to the beautiful Leuta vineyards. I’ll let the photos tell the story of the beautiful day we had.

Leuta vineyard with Cortona in background:

©Blogginginitaly.comLeuta vines up close:

Leuta vines up close:

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Carlo and Len:

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Leuta worker:

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Next career?

Len’s new job! ©Blogginginitaly.com

Yours truly ready with Epi pen and Benadryl, but the bees were much more interested in the grapes…

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Other beautiful sights:

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A close up of same building with a fig tree growing within…

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Afterward, we caught up with Denis, the passionate owner of Leuta, as he was giving a tour of the wine making process…

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We were fortunate enough to sample several of Leuta’s excellent wines and once again hear the story of Denis’ love of winemaking, a passion that grew from working with his grandfather.

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On the way home, we saw this, the inactive Amiata Volcano .

Amiata Volcano ©Blogginginitaly.com

Thanks, Carlo, and Denis, for a wonderful day!

For more on Leuta, visit Leuta.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Leuta Wine

Comments 10 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italian Wine Tasting, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Man on a Mission

8 Sep

Although I am not certain, I’d guess this man brings local wines to Cortona bars and eateries, and this is what we drink when we order vino di casa, or house wine. In Cortona, such wine would usually be Sangiovese, the “mother” grape of Tuscany. Even the engine is working hard!

©Blogginginitaly.com

Grazie, signore, we certainly enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Ciao,

Judy

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian History, Italian WIne, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Familiarity

3 Sep

We awoke this morning to the sites, sounds and smells of Cortona – and fell into our familiar rituals. Morning cappuccino, an uphill 2.5 mile hike to Torreone, the “take your pick” downhill roads leading back to town, lunch at Caffe Tuscher, an afternoon nap, appertivo with friends, and a light dinner.

I’m reminded of a Peter Allen/ Carole Bayer Sager song, Everything Old is New Again:

Don’t throw the past away
You might need it some rainy day
Dreams can come true again
When everything old is new again

Exactly when we fell in love with Cortona is unclear – perhaps our very first day in June, 2011. We had long planned and dreamt about spending significant time in Italy, and for us, this continues to be the dream come true.

Seeing Cortona in the fall already brings a newness. Fewer people, many fewer children and strollers, and a final let up of the heat wave that surrounds Italy in the summer. The olives are ripening on the trees, the zucchini blossoms are gone, and the sun flowers are getting ready for harvest. But the incredible views

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and the enticing smells coming from kitchens remain the same. Somethings just never get old.

This evening, as is customary on Thursday nights, a band played in Piazza Signorelli.

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We joined the others and dined al fresco with friends. A perfect ending to a perfect day.

Dreams can come true again
When everything old is new again.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Caffe Tuscher

Comments 9 Comments
Categories Caffe, Cortona, Food, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

An Adventure in Self-Discovery

19 Jun

People often ask Len and me why we return to Italy each year. The food, the culture, the art, the people, the history? What is it that continues to draw us to the same place?

Perhaps the writer, D.H. Lawrence, expressed our sentiments best:

“For us to go to Italy and to penetrate into Italy
is like a most fascinating act of self-discovery.”

How very true. Returning to the same place, year after lovely year, is what allows us to experience Italy in a way a casual tourist simply cannot. For us, it’s a dream come true, a goal realized.

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And no, that’s not our house, but it is one of our favorite Cortona views.

Till next we meet…

2011, First Summer in Cortona ©Blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,

Judy

Comments 7 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Buon Compleanno, Leonardo!

15 Apr

On April 15, 1452, Leonardo da Vinci was born in a small Tuscan village called Anchiano. He was a true polymath, a person whose expertise spanned a significant number of subject areas. Today, we celebrate this genius’ life as a painter, sculptor, architect, engineer, musician, inventor, mathematician, anatomist, botanist, geologist, cartographer and writer.

Presumed Self Portrait

Da Vinci was the illegitimate child of Caterina, a domestic servant, and Sir Piero da Vinci, owner of the house where da Vinci was born. Today, the house is a museum where visitors are welcomed by da Vinci himself, well almost, as his life-sized hologram greets visitors and shares information about his life. In nearby Vinci, one can visit the www.museoleonardiano.it, which, according it its website, “is one of the most extensive and most original collections, providing critical knowledge of Leonardo in his historical context and in that of late Middle Ages and Renaissance.”

Among Da Vinci’s most famous works is the Vitruvian Man.

Luc Viatour / http://www.Lucnix.be

This drawing, combining art and science, depicts a man in two superimposed positions. The picture represents da Vinci’s attempt to relate man to nature as he believed the human body was analogous to the workings of the universe. The drawing also contains notes based on the work of the architect Vitruvius. The original is kept in Venice in the Gallerie dell’ Accademia and made available to the public occasionally.

Another intriguing work of da Vinci is the Mona Lisa. On display at the Louvre in Paris, this painting is considered one of the most famous in the world.

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In 1503, Francesco del Giocondo commissioned Leonardo da Vinci to paint a portrait of his wife, Lisa, age 24. It is believed it took him about four years to complete due to other projects. Da Vinci, however, feeling the painting was unfinished, never delivered it to Francesco nor did he get paid for his work; it is undated and unsigned.

Another iconic painting of da Vinci’s is The Last Supper, in the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, Milan.

The Last Supper

While many of Da Vinci’s works still exist, many more were lost over the years. Yet his notebooks containing sketches and scientific diagrams, as well as his thoughts on the nature of painting, provide continuing and immeasurable contributions to both art and science.

Happy Birthday #563 , Leonardo!

You graced this earth for 67 short years, but your brilliance will shine forever.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Happy Birthday Leonardo da Vinci

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Da Vinci, Italian Art, Italian countryside, Italian History, Italy, Louvre Paris, Mona Lisa, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany, Venice

From Grape to Glass

3 Mar

While we continue to meet Chicagoans who visit Cortona, it is less often that the Cortonese visit us. But Saturday was an exception. Meet Denis Zeni.

Denis is the “titolare” – or owner – of Leuta, a boutique winery in the Cortona area. He is visiting several cities in the States and conducting wine tastings in his hosts’ homes.

Denis in center with hosts ©Blogginginitaly.com

Denis’ story, like so many other entrepreneurs we meet in Italy, is a love story based on deep-rooted traditions. His grandfather cultivated grapes on his land in Trentino, in northern Italy, and shared his passion with his young grandson. Constantly at his grandfather’s side, Denis soon grew to love the land and over time, the possibilities.

Denis’ father, however, hoping for a different life for his son, eventually sold the family land, and encouraged Denis to seek a career in Finance. Denis obliged, but after a successful career and several finance degrees, he awoke one day and decided, “I don’t want to die as a banker!” Not that there is anything wrong with banking, he notes, it just didn’t mesh with the passion that had been ignited in his blood as a child.

With his grandfather’s land no longer available, Denis searched and found land in Tuscany to launch his dream. What began as The Tuscany Project, a small initiative with his friend and then partner Enzo, is now the Leuta Estate, approximately 62 acres at 31o meters above sea level near Cortona.

But back to the wine tasting. As we enjoyed delicious Tuscan antipasti prepared by our amazing hosts,

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Denis shared some of his personal history as well as that of Leuta. He then began pouring the first of five wines we would taste.

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Wine tastings are a fun and interesting way to sample various wines and learn something about each. They usually include a 5 step process: see, swirl, sniff, sip, savor. As I listened attentively to Denis, it occurred to me that this tasting was quite different from most others we have attended. And I quickly realized why.

Denis not only knew about these wines, he was personally connected to all aspects, from grape to glass. He described the vines, how they were planted, how they behaved as they grew, the choice to avoid/limit chemicals, the grape selection, the harvesting process, the aging, the bottling, the mistakes and the successes. It became clear to me that the bottles held not only his wines but also his dreams and life’s work.

Similar to the eye of the beholder, I believe that wine preference is in the senses of the taster. Expensive or not doesn’t necessarily mean great or not. But a really nice wine seems to taste even better when I know its history and understand its traditions.

Grazie, Denis, for sharing your wonderful story and wines with us! We look forward to spending time with you at Leuta.

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In the meantime, as we enjoy our new purchases, we will toast to you and recall the history you shared with us. Your grandfather is surely smiling.

Ciao,

Judy

For more information:
http://www.leuta.it

Tags: Denis Zeni, Leuta Wine, Wine Tasting, www.leuta.it

Comments 9 Comments
Categories Chicago, Cortona, Food, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italian Wine Tasting, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Italian Commercials

2 Feb

Last night, while watching the Super Bowl, this town showed up in one of the commercials:

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Perhaps unlike most of the millions watching, I recognized it immediately as Pitigliano, Italy. Truly a sight to behold, and once I saw it, a sight I’ll never forget.

The commercial that followed was so very typical of Italian commercials, creatively presenting a product in a subtle, or not so, sensual/sexual way. This is usually the case, whether the commercial is for gelato, a cleaning product, or a car.

I did a little research on the commercial, and not surprisingly, found that it had been panned by Adweek and other so called advertising experts. Perhaps these critics need to spend a bit more time in Italy, where the commercials are often as fun to watch as the shows.

In case you missed it, here’s the commercial.

Bigger, more powerful, and ready for action!

And if you are interested, here’s more on Pitigliano:
https://blogginginitaly.com/2013/07/29/pitigliano/

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Fiat 500X, Fiat Super Bowl Commercial, Pitigliano

Comments 7 Comments
Categories Italian countryside, Italian History, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Tuscher Caffé

26 Sep

On our last day in Cortona this summer, a group of ladies stopped me and asked where they might enjoy a great breakfast. “Follow me,” I said, then walked them to our favorite eating destination in all of Cortona – Tuscher Caffé.

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As I’ve written many times, one of the things we enjoy most about Cortona is its Italian authenticity. Most of the restaurants, shops, and stores are owned and operated by local Italians, and these places are where we prefer to spend our time.

This two-story Caffé opened in 2003 in the beautiful Palazzo Ferretti on Via Nazionale. Massimo and Daniela, the owners and operators of the caffé, named it after the building’s architect, Carl Marcus Tuscher, who worked in Italy from 1728-41.

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They, along with their sons Niccolo and Edoardo, tend to every detail, and it clearly shows.

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Looking for breakfast? Whether a simple coffee and pastry, or an omelet, look no further.

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Thinking about lunch? Your biggest decision is not whether to sit inside or out, rather, how to choose which delicious dish to order. Always the freshest ingredients coupled with creativity, and always made to order…

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And let’s not forget about dessert:

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In Italy, people often gather in the evening for appertivo. This wonderful tradition consists of meeting friends or family members for a pre-dinner drink such as prosecco or vermouth. Historically, these drinks were accompanied by nuts and olives so as not to ruin an appetite, and instead, open up the stomach for the meal to come.

Today, appertivo has taken on a different meaning where along with a wide variety of specialty cocktails, delicious and creative appetizers are served – all free of charge.

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Winter or summer, appertivo is an evening ritual in Cortona.

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Unless it is Monday, and Tuscher is closed, hardly a day passes that we don’t enjoy one or more meals here. After our several mile hike each morning, Len always declares, “It’s time for a proper lunch,” and for us, that’s typically a Tuscher lunch. We love the food and the atmosphere, and most of all, we love the friends and friendships we have made here.

As for those lovely ladies I introduced to Tuscher in the morning…well, they obviously liked the recommendation as they were back having lunch when we arrived to do the same.

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To Dani, Massimo, Niccolo and Edoardo, thanks for all of your hard work and dedication and for making Tuscher Caffé such a special part of our Cortona life. And to my dear friend, Dani, Buon Compleanno!

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You truly are a sweetie pie!

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If you are a regular, see you there. If you’ve never been, try it. You’ll thank me later!

Ciao,

Judy

www.caffetuschercortona.com

Tags: Appertivo, Cortona, Italian cocktail time, Tuscher Caffe, www.caffetuschercortona.com

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Caffe, Cortona, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Piazza Life

15 Sep

Recently, I read an article in a Chicago paper about a local community that created a new and different type of outdoor space. It’s a place where restaurants, shops, pedestrians and vehicles commingle. While this may be new to an Illinois community, it is a way of life in much of Europe, something that I have long referred to as Piazza Life.

What is it about Italian Piazza Life that is so appealing? Just about everything.

Each piazza has its own borders, if you will, created by beautiful ancient buildings that have been repurposed. An old prison is now a museum, a villa now a bank, and a stable now an enoteca.

The center of the piazza may have a fountain or statue, or be empty and provide a stage for any number of diverse events. Nowhere is this better seen than in Cortona, where Piazza Life is a way of life.

While there are several piazzas in Cortona, the two main ones are Piazza Republicca and Piazza Signorelli. They are physically adjacent to one another, yet each has its own identity and events.

You know you are in Piazza Republicca when you are facing the grand staircase of the Municipio or Municipal building.

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While it is used for several city functions, it also provides a beautiful setting for many weddings where everyone in the piazza seems to join in the celebration.

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In this piazza, you can sit in or outside of a number of cafes; shop at a grocery store, fruit market, wine store, or florist; and buy shoes, handbags, linens, and even a borselino, all actually made in Italy.

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People gather, some doing their morning shopping, others stopping for a chat with friends.

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Cars and cyclists navigate through pedestrians of all ages, and pop up performers are a common site.

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Celebrations commemorating historical events are held here.

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And while the piazzas are significantly quieter in the winter, they still draw people together for such delights as the incredible Christmastime lamp lighting celebration.