Archive | Italian countryside RSS feed for this section

Funghi Feast: *Mushrooms*

13 Oct

With warm days, cool nights, and the moon just right, Tuscan mushroom seekers are busy, and that includes Carlo, our resident fungaiolo (mushroom hunter/seeker). He heads to the mountain forests, filled with a variety of trees including chestnut, pine, oak and beech, and the ideal habitat for funghi. If you ask, however, just know that a dedicated fungaiolo never reveals where he/she searches.

©blogginginitaly.com

While he headed off to the forest, Fernanda surprised us with one of Len’s favorite dishes, spaghetti alle vongole. At the local pescheria, or fish market, one can easily find the sweet, tender and tasty veraci, or tiny baby clams in the shell, as well as slightly larger clams which she combined for a delicious dish.

©blogginginitaly.com

Carlo finally returned with a smile on his face that spelled success. He proudly displayed his bounty of mushrooms, including the prized Porcini, Gallinaccio (Chanterelle), Ovuli (orange color, egg-shaped), Mazza di Tamburo, (drum mallet or stick shape), and a few miscellaneous stragglers. Knowing where to go, and having an aged Panda, both help in the hunt.

©blogginginitaly.com

In Italy, Len and I have planted and harvested vegetables and picked fruit, tomatoes and olives, but we had never really cleaned mushrooms, not ones freshly picked from the forest. And what a learning experience it was. Fernanda was anxious to get started cleaning.

©blogginginitaly.com

We had, of course, the same question most would ask:

“How do you know if they are poisonous?”

And the answer, as you might guess, is experience. Carlo accompanied his dad beginning at age seven. Fernanda’s parents both scoured the forest since she was a child. And now they just know, a skill passed from generation to generation. They know the varieties, where to look, what to pick, what to leave behind, how to clean, what to cut off, how to store, how to serve, and so on. And thus we began to learn, under the watchful eye of Fernanda’s mom and instructions per Fernanda and Carlo.

©blogginginitaly.com

Using the end of a knife, the dirt is removed by a quick but not too firm scraping.

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

Many mushrooms are like sponges, so after the first cleaning, they are lightly rinsed, not soaked.

©blogginginitaly.com

And then on to others.

©blogginginitaly.com

Len and Carlo took the residue we had scraped off to the orto which will become compost for next year’s tomatoes. Remember, it’s Italy, and nothing is thrown out if possible.

©blogginginitaly.com

They even found a few more tomatoes on the vines.

©blogginginitaly.com

Then, Fernanda went to work, quickly and skillfully slicing the porcini for freezing.

©blogginginitaly.com

Her hands flew though the motions, and soon we had 14 packages of porcini ready to freeze for future pasta, risotto, and/or frying.

©blogginginitaly.com

Once the aromas began filling the house, we knew she had started cooking…

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

But the “pièce de ré·sis·tance” was the fresh porcini risotto. Move over farm to table, this was mountain to mouth! The smell, the taste, the WOW. The best I have ever had.

©blogginginitaly.com

Complimenti to Carlo, our favorite fungaiolo,

©blogginginitaly.com

and to Fernanda, our talented cook!

©blogginginitaly.com

Thanks for the lessons, the food, the fun and your friendship!

©blogginginitaly.com

No matter the season, we continue building memories, each and every wonderful day.

©blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Farm to Table and Friends

27 Sep

Restaurants these days tout farm to table, and diners love participating in this fresh approach to cooking and eating. But when the farm and table are your own, it’s extra special.

Italy is well known for many wonderful things, with food always ranking high on the list. Great food comes from quality ingredients, and in Italy, that’s a way of life. When we first started traveling through the Italian countryside, Len remarked that Italy is one big farm. How true that is. Not just grapes and olives, although they are in abundance, but hectares and hectares of fruits, vegetables, and grains as well. In addition, the fertile soil, topography and weather contribute to regional differences in product variety.

I have written a lot about the fun we have with “our” small orto, as well as the abundant fruits of our “collective” labor. And since the orto is surrounded on three sides by Fernanda’s relatives’ farms, we are rewarded in quadruple.

From picked:

©blogginginitaly.com

to this:

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

Or these:

©blogginginitaly.com

to these:

©blogginginitaly.com

This crate:

©blogginginitaly.com

becomes Fernanda’s vegetable soup:

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

During the fall, when the weather is perfect, Carlo “hunts” for mushrooms, 

©blogginginitaly.com PORCINI

©blogginginitaly.com OVULI

so we enjoy these:

©blogginginitaly.com

Then there was this just picked bundle,

©blogginginitaly.com

which produced these:

©blogginginitaly.com

Grapes, you ask, but of course:

©blogginginitaly.com

and figs? In abundance!

©blogginginitaly.com

All of which makes for a beautiful and bountiful apericena (appetizer/dinner)!

©blogginginitaly.com

And then there’s the fun, lots and lots of fun. Regarding the next photo, don’t ask as I won’t tell 😎.

©blogginginitaly.com

Sunshine, fresh food, a good red and loads of laughter – perfect ingredients for good health and good times.

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

 

 

 

 

 

Productive Relaxation, Italian Style

24 Apr

In Italy, there is a sight commonly found in smaller towns – men sitting on benches, or standing in small groups, discussing everything from local politics to international sports events. Meanwhile, their wives are shopping, visiting, cooking, cleaning, etc.  What they all have in common is the phrase: Siamo in pensione, or, we are retired. 

We, too, take this retirement thing seriously. Take productive relaxation for example, not an oxymoron but instead an art.

Fernanda had today off, so our day began in her garden where she prepared breakfast – her delicious yogurt cake and cappuccino.

©blogginginitaly.com

After enjoying the sunshine and planning for our vegetable garden, we drove to Panicale, one of our favorite little borgos about 45 minutes from Cortona, and a first visit for Fernanda.

In 2018, Panicale, in Umbria, was listed as one of Italy’s most beautiful villages.

©blogginginitaly.com

Although it is small and easy to walk around, it is not the easiest of villages to find. But GPS has gotten us there every time.

The medieval hill town overlooks Lago Trasimeno, a site where in 217 BC, Hannibal and his legions ambushed Roman legions along the banks.

©blogginginitaly.com

As you can see from the map below, the streets are narrow and form concentric ovals.

©blogginginitaly.com

Panicale still retains its medieval castle, which was once surrounded by a moat,

©blogginginitaly.com

as well as other well-preserved charming buildings.

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

It also has a few unique door bells!

©blogginginitaly.com

No matter which way you walk, all streets seem to lead to the historical center’s Piazza Umberto I,

©blogginginitaly.com

where there is a travertine fountain, (formerly an ancient cistern), dating back to 1473.

©blogginginitaly.com

The piazza is surrounded by a few eateries and shops, including our favorite – Bar del Gallo, (lower right).

©blogginginitaly.com

The staff is always friendly,

©blogginginitaly.com

and the melanzana (eggplant) is always delicious.

©blogginginitaly.com

Of course, there are other menu items, but for us, it’s too good to pass up. And Fernanda agreed it was one of the best she has ever eaten.

©blogginginitaly.com

Perhaps best of all at Bar del Gallo is the owner, Aldo Gallo, a man whose warm smile and genuine hospitality keeps one coming back for more.

©blogginginitaly.com

Today we learned that Bar del Gallo earned a gold cup award in a coffee competition, an award well-deserved. Complimenti Aldo!

©blogginginitaly.com

We said our goodbyes and drove the long way home, stopping at a nursery to select our plants: 10 tomato (three varieties), and nine zucchini.

©blogginginitaly.com

Why nine zucchini, you might ask? Well, last year, we had an ever-lasting supply of zucchini flowers, (actually too much of a good thing!) and very few zucchini, so Len did some research. Apparently, zucchini should be planted in “hills” of three plants, close together. This is because when the plants flower, they produce both masculine and feminine flowers, and apparently, they need to do their thing “nature-ly” (cross-pollinate) to produce zucchini! Who knew???

©blogginginitaly.com

Well, we’ll see what happens. Updates, and hopefully zucchini, to follow in a few months.

Grazie, Aldo, for another lovely afternoon in Panicale. See you again soon. 

©blogginginitaly.com

And that’s how we spend a very productive day in a most relaxing way, Italian style.

Ciao,
Judy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Re-entry!

11 Apr

We returned to Cortona over two weeks ago, and we’ve been busy.  While sometimes it seems as though we have the town to ourselves, 

©blogginginitaly.com

the weekends remind us that Cortona is a “happening” place.

Occasionally, however, there are “happenings” we’d rather avoid.

©blogginginitaly.com

We managed to get “fined” on a 10 minute bus ride from Camucia to Cortona. Longer story shortened, our to-and-from rides were all on one ticket, which we validated each way. However, we didn’t realize, or frankly just forgot, that we had to validate the single ticket twice each way, and consequently, we were fined by the very occasional inspectors who boarded our bus one stop from Piazza Garibaldi, our final destination. Yes, we paid for both of us, and yes, we thought we had correctly validated the ticket, but none of that mattered. Word to the wise: validate, validate, validate, or pay 60 euros!!!

But as always, our days and nights are filled with great friends and great food, some  shown here.

During our second week, we spent several days in Lucca. Although it rained each day, we were able to walk the wall, do some sight seeing, visit with a friend, and find some great restaurants.

On the way back, we stopped in Firenze as we had been invited to visit the Carabinieri Training School. Len just couldn’t resist.

m5ZK4vcXRKeBHFOz2WJ9NQ

©blogginginitaly.com

A few days ago, we drove with friends to a medieval town in Umbria called Narni. There are hundreds of towns like this in Italy, each with its own history and legends, and usually an interesting fact for which they are known. For Narni, it is being very close to the geographic center of Italy.

kfZ0A5HoTRic3tgnNJ5XVQ

©blogginginitaly.com

fullsizeoutput_d56a

©blogginginitaly.com

On Monday of this week, we picked up our car, this time a Fiat Panda.

9pJd7UtfSVGAgNDUCR8Rrg

©blogginginitaly.com

The weather has not been great, but mostly I feel like her… I’m here and I’m happy!

fullsizeoutput_d558

©blogginginitaly.com

And today, before the rains fell, we drove through the Tuscan countryside, as if driving through a painting, and witnessed, once again, the stunning landscape and the ever-spectacular views that always bring a smile to my face. 

fullsizeoutput_d565

©blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

Our Montalbano Tour

18 Dec

Although many people visit Taormina to get close to Mount Etna, Len and I had a different plan. Our goal was to visit many of the shooting locations of one of our favorite Italian detective stories, Il Commissario Montalbano. The episodes are based on novels by author Andrea Camilleri. They are set in the imaginary town of Vigàta but many shooting locations are in the province of Ragusa. Montalbano is played by the Italian actor Luca Zingaretti.

We got hooked on watching Italian shows many years ago as part of our never-ending quest to speak and understand Italian better, and also to learn about parts of Italy we had yet to visit.

Taormina is certainly not the best base to begin this excursion as the sites are hours away, but that didn’t deter us. I found an excellent driver, Alessio Patanè, (info@sicilygrandtour.com), who met us at 8 AM in Taormina.

Our first stop, and the opening shots of the episodes, are overlooking Modica. We were stumped on the significance of this view – the open center being the shooting location for Livia’s bus stop.

©blogginginitaly.com

We did, however, recognize the Cathedral of San Giorgio, aka the Church of Vigàta.

©blogginginitaly.com

Next stop, (not Montalbano related), the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily. Need you ask if I bought some?

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

From there on to Scicli, aka Vigàta.

©blogginginitaly.com

The show’s police headquarters and commissioner’s office are both housed in the local town hall.

©blogginginitaly.com

Filming for the episodes happens on location during many months of the year, but the office set ups are often broken down and moved to Cinecittà, a large film studio in Rome. We were fortunate as they had recently been shooting scenes, so the offices were completely in tact when we visited.

Stepping inside, one immediately recognizes the staircase Montalbano climbs to visit his boss, the commissioner,

©blogginginitaly.com

as well as the commissioner’s office.

©blogginginitaly.com

After hearing about the some of the artifacts in the office, we headed downstairs to Montalbano’s office.

©blogginginitaly.com

Immediately on the right is Catarella’s office.

©blogginginitaly.com

then Fazio’s office leading to Montalbano’s.

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

Enrico, our wonderful tour guide, was so knowledgeable and entertaining.

©blogginginitaly.com

He was also eager to show us a filming stunt. Below is the familiar door to Mimi’s office, which is actually not an office at all but a wall. Mimi’s only office exists in the studios in Rome.

©blogginginitaly.com

One highlight not visible in the series is the incredible ceilings in the eighteenth century building.

©blogginginitaly.com

After thanking Enrico, we walked the familiar streets of Vigàta before heading to lunch.

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

Then time for Len’s one request – to eat along the sea at the place Montalbano frequents, and so we did. Picture perfect.

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

After lunch, we walked along the beach in Punta Secca (aka Marinella)

©blogginginitaly.com

until we came upon this sign…

©blogginginitaly.com

and then the very familiar home of Montalbano.

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

It was easy to see why this house was selected as Montalbano’s home and equally funny to see a pizzeria a few doors away – oh what fame can due to a town!

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

In reality, it doesn’t appear that fame has spoiled this quiet beach town at all. No one was even home when I knocked.

©blogginginitaly.com

From here, on to our final stop, the incredible vistas of Ragusa and Ragusa Ibla, which we learned about from episodes. As Camilleri once said:

….there is a literary Vigàta, which is based on my hometown, and then a Vigàta used as the set for the TV series, which is based on beautiful places such as Scicli, Modica and so on. Now that happens to me when I’m writing a new Montalbano story: I’m influenced not so much by the Montalbano TV character but the scenery seen on television..   Andrea Camilleri

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

Whether or not you are a fan of the Montalbano books/tv series, these sights in many remote parts of Sicily are enticing and beautiful. At first we had wondered why so many widely dispersed and remote filming locations were used, but seeing them made it all so clear. Camilleri truly wanted to share lesser known parts of Sicily with his audience, and indeed he did. Clearly, his intention is what brought us to areas we might never have known, and given us another great adventure on a road less travelled.

©blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

 

 

 

How Does our Orto (Garden) Grow?

17 Aug

With warm sunny days, sufficient rainfall, and tender loving care, “our” garden grew from this at the end of April…

©blogginginitaly.com

to this in August!

©blogginginitaly.com

After giving a thumbs up to the garden’s success, Len decided to take in some sun and enjoy a Toscano, a small Italian cigar (that actually doesn’t smell bad),

©blogginginitaly.com

while Fernanda and I were ready to pick, baskets in hand.

©blogginginitaly.com

We filled our baskets with three of the four varieties we had planted…

Ciliegino (Cherry)

©blogginginitaly.com

San Marzano

©blogginginitaly.com

Camone

©blogginginitaly.com

and the not quite ready, Cuore di Bue (Beef Steak)

©blogginginitaly.com

We also picked susine (plums) from the brimming trees that not only keep the orto from scorching in the summer sun,

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

but also provide fruit for delicious marmellata.

©blogginginitaly.com

Then it was time for our “casual” county lunch ~

Our Al Fresco Menu included:
freshly cut prosciutto and sliced melon;
hand-picked tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and garden basil;
just cooked porchetta from the market;
cannelloni beans sautéed in fresh tomatoes;
Toscana Rosso di Montalcino

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

Talk about farm to table –  and so much more rewarding since we are the planters, pickers and very fortunate eaters!

After lunch, it was time for some serious relaxation.

©blogginginitaly.com

Little did we know two years ago how incredibly rewarding this small garden would be. How does our garden grow? Well, we may not be experts, and the local farmers still offer much advice, but for us, everything about the orto is perfectly wonderful, perfectly delicious, and so proudly our own doing. We just can’t help but smile!

©blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

 

 

Mille Miglia – 1000 Miles

16 May

For the first time ever, the famous Mille Miglia open-road endurance race is coming through Cortona. If you are a car lover, or just a fortunate spectator, this will be a spectacular treat.

The race took place in Italy 24 times from 1927 to 1957 (13 before the war, 11 after 1947). From 1953-57, the race was also a round of the World Sports Car Championship. Today’s local paper proclaimed that this is the first time the event will come through Cortona,

IMG_2007

©LaNazione

and posters are all over town.

©blogginginitaly.com

The race was banned after two fatal crashes in 1957, killing both drivers and many spectators. From 1958 to 1961, the event resumed as a rally-like roundtrip at legal speeds with a few special stages driven at full speed, but this was discontinued also.

In 1977, the Mille Miglia was reborn as a “race” for classic vintage cars produced pre-1957. The round trip route is Brescia-Roma-Brescia, similar to that of the original race, and takes several days to complete. 

Here is the route, published by the Mille Miglia official site:

Below are some excerpts taken (and translated) from an email I received this morning detailing some of the logistics. I imagine the times are estimates based on weather conditions and traffic. What is significant, however, is the sheer number of cars, upward of 600, expected to move through the streets of Cortona tomorrow.

Cortona for the first time in its history will be a stop in this race. Everything is ready in the city to welcome this historic passage. About 600 cars will participate in the Mille Miglia 2018. 30 Super Car Mercedes, 100 Super Ferrari Cars and 450 historic cars. Among these, 70% are made up of foreign crews and many famous people. The passage will last for four hours.

In Cortona the reception will be special: the cars will start arriving in the city between 12.30 and 13. The approach path will … enter the city from Via Dardano, Piazza Signorelli, stop for stamping in Piazza della Repubblica and exit from Via Nazionale.

Among the well-known characters at the start, Coldplay bass player Guy Berryman, Oscar winner Adrien Brody, Dutch prince Van Oranje, Piero Pelù, Spanish singer Alvaro Soler and former Formula One driver Giancarlo Fisichella, actress and model Francesca Chillemi, the patron of Prada Patrizio Bertelli.

Per Mayor Francesca Basanieri, … The Mille Miglia is, without a shadow of a doubt, one of the most famous and celebrated car races in the world, and having brought it to Cortona, even if only as an intermediate stage, is a very important result.

If you would like more info, from the years of history to this year’s event, this site is well worth visiting: http://www.1000miglia.it/MilleMiglia/ 

As for me, tomorrow will be a photo-op dream.

Just hope the weather cooperates! Stay tuned.

Ciao,
Judy

2018 Orto (Garden) Planted!

30 Apr

In a very unanticipated move, we planted the garden yesterday. The original plan was for this Thursday, but the weather outlook was not encouraging with a week of rain and thunderstorms in the forecast.

With Fernanda’s approval (she was at work), Len, Carlo and I headed to the nursery at 3PM to purchase tomato plants.

In late April/early May, hail producing storms can play havoc with small plants in Tuscany, but we were ready and determined to get the garden in before the storms.  After all, we did the same two years ago with great success.

©Blogginginitaly.com              August 2016, 1st Orto

With two years experience under their belts, Len and Carlo were up to the task.

©blogginginitaly.com

They moved quickly and efficiently, re-using the cane from years past to make the trellises.

©blogginginitaly.com

My job was to cut the twine, make caffè, and hold things as needed.

©blogginginitaly.com

When not needed, I wandered the fields next door. Only this year have I learned that the tall green grassy fields that blow in the wind are actually grain/wheat fields. I had assumed, incorrectly, that wheat would be a tan color, not bright green. These happen to be orzo or barley.

©blogginginitaly.com

A close-up reveals the familiar spike at the top of the plant.

©blogginginitaly.com

But back to the garden…four zucchini plants and eighteen tomato plants, (four varieties),

©blogginginitaly.com

all covered in mesh to hopefully ward off any potential hail damage.

©blogginginitaly.com

By 7 PM, the job was done and the full moon showered her approval.

©blogginginitaly.com

All in a day’s wonderful work, truly from farm to table (eventually!),

©blogginginitaly.com

with, fingers-crossed, a bit of cooperation from Mother Nature!

Ciao,
Judy

The Caves of Matera

28 Apr

Many thanks to all who sent Len well wishes for a speedy recovery. While he got much better, his cold travelled far and found me in the caves of Matera, the next stop on our adventure.

Matera is in Basilicata and the drive there was filled with hills of lush green wheat fields and bright yellow flowers.

©blogginginitaly.com

But the view would soon change. I once read that nothing quite prepares you for your first sighting of the caves in ancient Matera,

©blogginginitaly.com

especially knowing these were human dwellings. Well, it literally took my breath away. My first thought was of Juda Ben Hur’s visit to the Valley of the Lepers searching for his mother and sister.

©blogginginitaly.com

The Sassi di Matera are divided into two districts, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, and are thought to be among the first human settlements in Italy. There is evidence that people were living there as early as 7000 BC.

©blogginginitaly.com

Sassi are houses dug into the calcarenitic rock itself, locally called tufo (not volcanic tufa) which is characteristic of the area.

©blogginginitaly.com

The ancient town grew up on one slope of the ravine created by a river that is now a small stream. The ravine is known locally as “la Gravina”.

©blogginginitaly.com

Below is an interesting description provided  “Courtesy of Guardian News & Media Ltd”. Photos are my own.

The Miracle of Matera:
from city of poverty and squalor to hip hub for cave-dwellers

One of Italy’s most deprived cities – so lacking hope that God was said to keep well away – is now an Airbnb hotspot and set to be European capital of culture.

There is a sense of shame as Luigi Plasmati, 89, recollects growing up amid chronic poverty in a crammed cave in Matera, an ancient, bruised city in Italy’s southern Basilicata region.

©blogginginitaly.com

“It was brutal,” he said. “There were families of maybe nine or 10 children, sleeping next to mules and pigs. We were dying of hunger.”

Less than 70 years ago some 15,000 people, mostly peasants and farmers, were still living in grottoes carved out of limestone that dated back to Matera’s prehistoric era: dank dwellings with no natural light, ventilation, running water or electricity. Disease, particularly malaria, cholera and typhoid, was rampant. Bed space was scarce, with children squeezed with their parents into bunks that were deliberately built with space beneath for chickens. Coveted animals were kept indoors in case they were stolen. Large families would gather around a small table once a day to share a simple meal of bread with pasta or pulses.

The child mortality rate was high and Plasmati lost one of his five siblings. Those who survived grew up illiterate.

“I was working from the age of six, going out early in the morning to cut grain in the fields,” he said. “You’d try to sell the odd cigarette here and there to make some money, but there was never any money to spend.”

In the most extraordinary way, that history of squalor and poverty is now proving to be the making of Matera in the 21st century. A report last week by the University of Siena said that more than 25% of Matera’s housing stock is available to rent on Airbnb, more than anywhere else in Italy.

©blogginginitaly.com

On top of enjoying a remarkable tourist boom, Matera will also be 2019’s European capital of culture. The impoverished cave dwellings of the Sassi – literally “the stones” – are providing the economic platform for a more prosperous future.

“Airbnbs, bars, restaurants … this is the natural evolution of the Sassi right now,” said Nicola Taddonio, a local tour guide. “These changes have helped connect people back to the Sassi. Even though we lost that connection for some time, our souls are back there.”

©blogginginitaly.com

The extent of the squalid conditions in the Sassi only came to international attention when writer Carlo Levi was exiled by Benito Mussolini’s fascist regime to a town close to Matera in 1935. 

©blogginginitaly.com

In his book, Christ Stopped at Eboli, published in 1945, Levi described the horror he witnessed – the paltry furniture, children either naked or in rags, bodies ravaged by disease – and concluded: “I have never seen in all my life such a picture of poverty.”  For more of this article, see link below*.

In the 1950s, the Italian government forcefully relocated most of the population of the Sassi to areas of the developing modern city. Riddled with malaria, the unhealthy living conditions were considered an affront to the new Italian Republic of Prime Minister De Gasperi.

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

However, some people continued to live in the Sassi, as it was the only life they had ever known. Until the late 1980s, this was still considered an area of poverty since many of these houses were, and in some cases still are, uninhabitable. The current local administration, however, has become more tourism-oriented and has promoted the regeneration of the Sassi with the aid of the EU, the government, and UNESCO.

©blogginginitaly.com

As you might expect, our dinner was in a cave – of course clean and totally repurposed .

©blogginginitaly.com (travel buddies Susan and Ray)

Of particular note is the Pane di Matera, bread that obtained the IGP (Protected ID) label in 2004 and is made exclusively from fine durum wheat semolina cultivated on the Matera hills and highlands.

©blogginginitaly.com

Although I had booked a cave room, I found it a bit too dark and damp, especially with a cold, so I opted for a more traditional room with windows, lots of light and interesting views.

©blogginginitaly.com

©blogginginitaly.com

Visiting Matera provided me such an incredible look into the long ago past of a people, culture and area I knew little about. If some of these sites look familiar, or you want to see more of Matera, many movies have used Matera as a setting: Christ Stopped at Eboli (1978); Three Brothers (1981); I’m Not Scared (2002); and The Passion of the Christ (2004).

Whether viewing Matera’s ancient and “modern” areas from across the gorge,

©blogginginitaly.com

or from high above,

©blogginginitaly.com

it’s still so hard to get my head around the fact that people not only lived for generations in these caves, but that natives can still live in the same “houses” of their ancestors from 9,000 years ago.

Ciao,
Judy
Note: Click on any photo to enlarge

Trulli of Puglia

26 Apr

Len and I had long wanted to visit Puglia and Basilicata, beautiful southern regions of Italy located in/near the boot. We had made plans a few months ago with friends Susan and Ray, and were all set for departure last Tuesday when Len got a flu/cold. Since our flights and hotels were non changeable, and he assured me it was nothing serious, he insisted I go. Thanks to some online video apps, Len sort of came along anyway.

Our flight took us from Pisa, Tuscany, to Brindisi, Puglia, where we rented a car and headed to Locorotondo in Puglia for two nights. We stayed in a lovely three room B&B, Da Concavo e Convesso, and used this as a base to visit other locations.

Locorontondo©blogginginitaly.com

Our primary goal was to see the Trulli. And truly, they are everywhere!

©blogginginitaly.com

So what exactly are trulli? They are traditional dry stone huts with conical (cone-shaped) roofs.

Their style of construction is specific to the Itria Valley in the Puglia region. Trulli generally were constructed as temporary field shelters and storehouses or as permanent dwellings by small proprietors or agricultural labourers.  The golden age of trulli was the nineteenth century, especially its final decades. Our destination was Alberobello, famous for its unique trull0 (singular) construction, and a UNESCO site since 1996.

©blogginginitaly.com

According to history, peasants were sent to this land to build dry dwellings without mortar, ones that were unstable and could be easily demolished. This had to do with taxation, as dwellings deemed unstable and temporary would not be taxed, or could be dismantled quickly when tax collectors were in the area. Having to use only stones, the domes with overlapping stones proved simplest to build, but as it turned out, very solid as well.

©blogginginitaly.com

The vast majority of trulli have one room under each conical roof, with additional living spaces in arched alcoves. Children would sleep in alcoves made in the wall with curtains hung to separate them from the central room.

©blogginginitaly.com

A multi-room trullo house has many cones, each representing a separate room.

©blogginginitaly.com

Because of the very dense concentration of houses, trulli have few openings except for their doorway and a small aperture provided in the roof cone for ventilation. As a result, they could be very dark inside. You can see here three front doors and associated addresses 42, 44 and 46, all within feet of each other.

©blogginginitaly.com

The stone, however, did make them temperature efficient – cool in summer and warm from the fireplace in winter.

©blogginginitaly.com

The domed roofs are embellished with various decorative pinnacles representing the master builder, restorer, or various religious, political or other symbology.

©blogginginitaly.com

Urban trulli, which still exist in the area, date from the 18th-20th centuries. But some settlements began to be deserted during the second half of the twentieth century.

©blogginginitaly.com
©blogginginitaly.com

Although trulli dotted the landscape as we drove through the valley,

©blogginginitaly.com

according to the UNESCO website:  their highest concentration and best preserved examples of this architectural form are in the town of Alberobello, where there are over 1500 structures in the quarters of Rione Monti and Aja Piccola.

While many are occupied by locals, others have been converted to holiday houses for tourists.

©blogginginitaly.com

I had always heard of these interesting structures, but seeing them and visiting the museum helped me better understand the life and culture of a hard-working people. It is easy to understand why the trulli of Alberobello have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

©blogginginitaly.com

Trulli – a truly interesting site to behold!

Ciao,
Judy

Note: More of the trip to follow.