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Cortona Medieval Marriage and Joust

24 Jun

Our last weekend in Cortona was filled with traditional Medieval customs, celebrated annually by the locals.

Saturday evening, the town reenacted the 1397 marriage of Francesco Casali, Lord of Cortona, to Antonia Salimbeni, a noble woman of Siena, complete with flag-throwers, musicians, and a drawing for the shooting order for Sunday’s crossbow competition.

But let’s step back for a moment. Our great friend, Ivan, (Il Pozzo Galleria) has acted in the role of Francesco for as long as anyone can remember, along with his daughter, Marta, who annually serves as the lovely Antonia. We stopped in to see Ivan midday and were fortunate enough to experience not only the intricate detail of their costumes but also the weight.

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And then this… gym shoes and all!

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It’s hard to describe the beautiful detail, complexity and weight of these costumes, and true to form, the evening would be the hottest of the year! I was sweating just thinking about it. But on to the evening…

Drum roll, please!

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This year, the bride-to-be arrived in a chianina drawn carriage, much to the delight of the patrons.

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After being helped out of her coach by her lord in waiting,

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she was introduced to the appreciative crowds.

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As is customary for all important Cortona events, traditional flag throwers accompanied the ceremony.

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Before the final entertainment began, the lights unexpectedly went out, ©blogginginitaly.com

but as if on cue, in came the flame throwers, so it was a perfect ending to a wonderfully entertaining evening.

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As the people dispersed, we bumped into a very hot, tired, but always happy to greet people with a smile, Ivan. 

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Sunday was another hot day, both weather and competition wise for the Archidado. Peccioverardi won after 4 playoffs, 24-23 over S. Andrea.

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©blogginginitaly.com

Afterward, they paraded around town for their well-fought victory march, carrying the near bulls-eye arrow.

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One final thought about the weekend…

Each year, Ivan tells us it’s his last, yet for those of us who know him, it’s hard to imagine that anyone else could fill his shoes!

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Ciao,
Judy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Piazza Life

15 Sep

Recently, I read an article in a Chicago paper about a local community that created a new and different type of outdoor space. It’s a place where restaurants, shops, pedestrians and vehicles commingle. While this may be new to an Illinois community, it is a way of life in much of Europe, something that I have long referred to as Piazza Life.

What is it about Italian Piazza Life that is so appealing? Just about everything.

Each piazza has its own borders, if you will, created by beautiful ancient buildings that have been repurposed. An old prison is now a museum, a villa now a bank, and a stable now an enoteca.

The center of the piazza may have a fountain or statue, or be empty and provide a stage for any number of diverse events. Nowhere is this better seen than in Cortona, where Piazza Life is a way of life.

While there are several piazzas in Cortona, the two main ones are Piazza Republicca and Piazza Signorelli. They are physically adjacent to one another, yet each has its own identity and events.

You know you are in Piazza Republicca when you are facing the grand staircase of the Municipio or Municipal building.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

While it is used for several city functions, it also provides a beautiful setting for many weddings where everyone in the piazza seems to join in the celebration.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

In this piazza, you can sit in or outside of a number of cafes; shop at a grocery store, fruit market, wine store, or florist; and buy  shoes, handbags, linens, and even a borselino, all actually made in Italy.

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People gather, some doing their morning shopping, others stopping for a chat with friends.

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Cars and cyclists navigate through pedestrians of all ages, and pop up performers are a common site.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

Celebrations commemorating historical events are held here.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

And while the piazzas are significantly quieter in the winter, they still draw people together for such delights as the incredible Christmastime lamp lighting celebration.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

Piazza Signorelli, the adjacent Piazza, is also breathtaking in its beauty, whether bathed in sunshine

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©Blogginginitaly.com

or glowing in the moonlight.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

Piazza Life provides a daily local gathering venue, be it day or night, for spontaneous and scheduled events, including

kids playing soccer;

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local musicians;

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vintage car enthusiasts;

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food and antique vendors;

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annual traditions;

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marching bands;

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and avid sports fans.

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Whether you find yourself almost alone in an ancient Piazza, (and yes it is possible!)…

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or surrounded by friends you have not yet made,

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just be prepared to be amazed by the sights and sounds.

Piazza Life – wonderful! …and no reservation required.

Ciao,

Judy

 

“An Enchanting Walk”…

21 Jun

There is a new project underway in Cortona entitled An Enchanting Walk Under the Tuscan Sun. The goal of the program (I think)  is to increase awareness of the historic center of Cortona and other towns in Tuscany, and it ties to some of Frances Mayes’ writings and some of the shooting locations of the movie. Tonight she was celebrated as a Cortona ambassador and together, we toured some of the town’s historic sites. I had a chance to speak with her briefly and she was very gracious.

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Frances Mayes in Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

An unscheduled stop was in the piazza, where there were several vintage sport cars on display including Fiats, Alphas, and a Mercedes or two.

Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Earlier today was the typical wedding concluding on the grand steps of the municipal building, where the uninvited join the guests,

Wedding Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Wedding Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

this one followed by a release of white balloons.

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Last night, we enjoyed a wonderful multi-course fish dinner at AD, a new restaurant in town, with a chef  from Napoli. I took many photos and will write about it as soon as I can get back to ask the chef what we ate! (There were eight of us and we let the chef decide our dinner.)

Always something interesting happening in Cortona.

Ciao,

Judy

 

 

Fall in Love in Cortona

18 Jun

IMG_0006Italy is a popular destination for weddings, and Cortona ranks second, behind Venice, as the city of choice. Not difficult to see, as this lovely Etruscan town offers an incredible historic and romantic setting. I have written about weddings in the past, including one local wedding where the bride and her father arrived at the church in a horse-drawn carriage and another, a military wedding at the Municipio. Lovely.

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This past weekend, wedding planners hosted the first annual Fall in Love in Cortona weekend. Festivities included a broad display in the park of everything needed for a destination wedding including clothes for the bride, groom, attendees, and children; table settings; floral arrangements; make-up; honeymoon locations; food service; bar service, etc. On Saturday night, a speed dating event took place in the piazza. On Sunday night, a fashion show graced the steps of the municipal building. Wonder if any of the speed daters bought a dress on Sunday???

Not sure why the planners felt the need to make the steps of the Municipio look like the Arizona desert, but they did. They were filled with palms, sand, large pieces of drift wood, etc. It took several men all day. Oh, well, not my choice but the bridal dresses were beautiful.

From the first annual Fall in Love in Cortona:

In the Park:

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Sunday Evening Fashion Show

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As the sign says:

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Get married in style! Why not Cortona?

Ciao,

Judy

Andiamo al Mercato!

31 May

Getting the girls moving earlier in the day is easy when I announce, “Let’s go to the market!” First stop, however, cappuccini per cinque…cappuccini for five.

Sarah and Benita

Judy and Len

Mike

On Thursdays, the large market spreads its wares in Camucia, the city at the bottom of the hill. There’s something for everyone: food, kitchen, shoes, clothes, lingerie, toys, linens, flowers, every kind of stuff, and unlike the antique market that was in Cortona on Sunday, everything is new.

And shop we did, well, we girls did anyway. Shortly after arriving, Len and Mike found a caffe where they gradually moved from cappuccini to birra and panini while waiting for us, but they didn’t mind a bit.

Camucia Market

Camucia Market

Prosciutto

Funghi crudi – raw mushrooms – you eat in a salad – the most expensive!

Bellissimi fiori

Arance and ciliegie

Sarah buying her purse

Some of our purchases!

We returned to Cortona for a light lunch outside at Cacio Brillo and were witness to another beautiful wedding.

On the balcony

This one added a new dimension where the bride and groom delighted their guests with a kiss, (this time after the ceremony!) on the balcony of the Commune.

And off they went!

Tonight we are going to relax at home with a large fresh tomato salad and a few pizzas from the local pizzeria. Perhaps later we will get some gelato. Len has figured out the washer and dryer, (unusual in Italy!)…the engineer in him always does! Just one machine at a time, however!

And finally, a nice thing happened to me on the way to the bus this morning. As we walked passed the home we rented last year, a woman leaned out of the second floor window. “Do you write a blog?” she asked. Could it be that she recognized me from my blog photos? Quite surprised, I answered yes! She said she had read the blog and as a result, rented the home for a week with her daughter. Wow…so happy to have helped!

All in a day’s fun – and it’s only 5:09 PM.

Ciao!

Judy

Cortona Weddings

30 May

Local Wedding:

On a Sunday morning at 11 a.m., a horse drawn carriage carried a lovely bride and her father to S. Maria Nuova Church in Cortona. The church of Santa Maria Nuova was built in the mid sixteenth century by Giorgio Vasari.

Italian weddings are not always destined for Saturday, and this one reminded me that  Len and I were married on a Sunday as well.

The carriage arrived to the thunderous roar and applause of the waiting guests. We heard and watched this from the top of the hill until I decided I needed some photos. Most of the guests had filed into the Church by the time I ran down the hill, but I was able to see the proud father help his daughter out of the carriage.

The simplicity and loveliness of the bride, her father, a flower girl and ring bearer brought a smile to my face.

Although I couldn’t really see her face, I’m sure she was radiant as she entered the Church and approached her waiting fiancé.

Destination Wedding:

Others travel far to wed in Cortona. This union took place in the Palazzo Comunale, built in the early 1200’s. I believe the bride is American and the groom British, from a military family. The wedding attendees waited with anticipation, as well as many onlookers such as us, in front of the massive staircase.

The beautiful bride emerged from Via Nazionale to the waiting arms of her proud fiancé.

And before entering the Palazzo, they delighted their guests with a kiss.

Who needs movies?

Congratulations to all!

Ciao,

Judy

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