Mission Accomplished! Missione Compiuta!

12 Mar

For years in my Italian class, I was always somewhat envious of classmates who had familial connections in Italy. Being second generation, I realized that my ancestors had emigrated years ago, so I understood. Yet, were there relatives I did not know?

As we planned our trip to Napoli, my curiosity went into high gear. After several phone calls, emails and internet searches, the pieces of my puzzle began to take shape. And then yesterday, the final pieces of the puzzle were put into place.

Meet Bianca and her son, Danilo, distant cousins on my maternal grandmother’s side.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Although it was a bit of a challenge understanding all the connections and generations, with fast conversations mostly in Italian, Bianca’s great-grandmother Fiorita is my great, great grandmother.

They were born in a tiny area of Castel San Giorgio called Santa Maria a Favore, way too small to be called a village. It seems to have only three streets, one being Via Villa, the street of their home. In the photo above, Bianca and Danilo stand on the rooftop terrace overlooking part of the expansive villa.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

The villa was built around 1835, we think by Gaetano Auria, a distant uncle and attorney.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Gaetano’s wife, Fiorita Liguori, seems to have come from a noble family. They had no children, so they eventually left parts of the villa to a nephew, Pasquale, and a niece, Fiorita, Bianca’s and my ancestors. The villa, therefore, was the home where Bianca’s mother, Carolina (Anna) and my grandmother, Serafina, who were first cousins, lived as children with their parents and  siblings.

Pictured below are my maternal grandparents, Salvatore and Serafina, years after they met and married in Chicago. His family came from Nola, a part of metro Naples, but back to the villa.

Salvatore and Serafina, my grandparents ©Blogginginitaly.com

Salvatore and Serafina, my grandparents ©Blogginginitaly.com

This is part of the front of the main building when you enter the complex.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Over the years, (and my order is suspect here), some emigrated to America, the villa was rented to a hospital which repurposed it, the hospital moved out, some relatives returned from America and moved in, and at some point, the earthquakes occurred, causing severe damage to the structure.

At various times, the original villa as well as the apartments were divided. Some years ago, Bianca began to restore a part of the villa, including rooms where my grandmother lived until age 16, when she, her parents and siblings, emigrated. If I understand correctly, Bianca’s family lived in the area over the arch which used to connect inside to the area on the left. The left area is where my grandmother and her family lived and the area which has been restored. It is easy to see the damaging effects of time and nature and at the same time, see the beauty and grandeur that once existed. No wonder my grandmother always loved being surrounded by beautiful things.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

I had only ever hoped to see the outside of the villa, so it was a great surprise that we were able to enter and see a bit of the restored rooms inside of Via Villa 49.

Street door©Blogginginitaly.com

Street door©Blogginginitaly.com

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©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

original doors©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

original portico©Blogginginitaly.com

There’s even a wine cellar under this part of the building, and apparently a much larger one under the main house.

wine cellar©Blogginginitaly.com

wine cellar©Blogginginitaly.com

wine cellar©Blogginginitaly.com

wine cellar©Blogginginitaly.com

How I’d love to tap these barrels!

wine cellar©Blogginginitaly.com

wine cellar©Blogginginitaly.com

A Day of Italian Hospitality

Danilo and Bianca picked us up in Napoli at 9:30. Our first stop was Vietri sul Mare, home of ceramics and incredible views on the Gulf of Salerno.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Next stop, the beautiful city of Salerno, perhaps too often bypassed because of the popularity of Positano. This is the region of my grandmother’s home and the beginning of the Amalfi drive. We walked along the lungo mare, through the beautiful old city, and finally up to the Duomo.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Then on to see my grandmother’s villa before the rain began.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

This is a view down quiet Via Villa from one of the villa’s balconies.

View from villa window down Via Villa©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

The next photo is a panoramic view, a bit confusing but it does show the size of the property and all of the structures. Try to picture it as a closed rectangle. The open archway on the left is actually the center entrance archway and is quite large. The building with car on the right actually wraps around to meet the building with arch on the left. Ok, forget it.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

On to Bianca’s beautiful home in San Giorgio for an incredible five-course meal, all lovingly homemade, and served with conversation, smiles, and more deciphering of the family tree.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Even artichokes roasted in the fire.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

At the house, we met Bianca’s husband, Giovanni, his sister, and Danilo’s wife, Anna Paola, who made the delicious chocolate torte. Bianca and her husband are retired teachers and Danilo and his wife both have PhDs, his as a physicist and hers in bioethics. “He works on the volcano,” his uncle Renato told me before coming, so we kidded Danilo about being able to flip the switch for tourists. In reality, he actually does monitor the seismic activity among other things, so he’s definitely a good person to know when in Napoli!

I explained to my new-found relatives that each trip we take to Italy gives us a few extra special experiences, soprattutto, above all others. Spending the day with them was certainly one of these!

Around 7 PM, Danilo and Bianca returned us to our hotel in Napoli, a nearly 2 hour drive back in crazy bumper to bumper traffic, which Danilo makes twice daily for work.

Bianca and Danilo, I am so grateful we had the opportunity to meet you, to try to untangle the family tree, to see my grandmother’s house, and benefit from your incredibly warm hospitality. We will always remember the day we spent with you and your family.

Bianca e Danilo, io sono così grato abbiamo avuto l’opportunità di incontrare voi, per cercare di districare l’albero genealogico, per vedere la casa di mia nonna, e trarre vantaggio dalla tua incredibilmente calorosa ospitalità. Ricorderemo sempre il giorno abbiamo trascorso con voi e la vostra famiglia.

Grazie mille… speriamo che ci vediamo di nuovo qualche volta!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

When I get home, I will attempt to reconstruct the family tree from my scribbled notes and assemble my siblings, aunt, and any interested nieces, nephews and cousins, to share more photos and stories. For now, I remain incredibly happy to be able to share this amazing experience. Definitely Missione Compiuta!

Ciao,
Judy

 

 

 

 

 

Colorful, Grand Napoli

10 Mar

When we arrived last night, there were already two calls waiting for us at our hotel. Neapolitan hospitality.

Giovanni, the proprietor of Giovanni’s Hostel where Benita stayed two years ago, invited us for dinner. Being too tired, we opted to wait until today to meet him. Before we left our hotel, these were the morning’s colorful views from our balcony.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

It’s clear in the moments after we met Giovanni why he’s rated the #1 hostel in Napoli. His love and knowledge of this historic city, as well as his devotion to his guests, was evident immediately. “No one should leave Napoli without savoring fresh mozzarella,” he said, and so we joined him and two of his departing guests on his large deck for deliciously fresh, just made mozzarella.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Just after those guests left, Tomas from Argentina arrived. Since Giovanni was going to give his “desk tour” of Napoli to Tomas, he invited us to join. As we might have guessed, it was incredible in interest and detail. He walked us through many of the “must do” sights and activities,  pulling various books, maps, charts, etc. from desk drawers and shelves. Here’s a copy of the color coded map we left with.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

After our tour planning, Giovanni decided it was time for lunch, so he pulled some of his homemade Genovese sauce from the freezer, (slow cooked onions and beef), and made pasta Genovese for us. Smiles all around!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

During lunch, we talked a lot about Napoli and the fact that so many only know it as a train station they use to pass through to other parts of southern Italy. Unfortunate indeed, as there is truly so much art, history and culture here. Giovanni showed this CNN clip he recently found, and I pass it along to you. It really gives a wonderful view of Napoli, a city well worth a visit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfExG6QH-0A&feature=youtu.be

As for my other call at the hotel, you’ll have to wait a day or two to learn about it. In the meantime, suffice it to say that we are delighted we are finally experiencing Napoli, its history, culture, food, treasures and people.

Grazie mille, Giovanni, for your friendship, food and hospitality!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,

Judy and Leonardo

Destination Napoli

7 Mar

The saying goes:

If you go to Naples for a day, you’ll hate it. If you go for a week, you’ll love it. And if you go for a year, you’ll never want to leave. 

This thought has rattled around in my brain for some time now. And since my maternal grandparents were born in this part of Italy, I really want to love it.

We’ve been to Napoli in the past, or perhaps more accurately, through Napoli, but never spending enough time to bond with this city. Here we are in 2007, enjoying the best pizza ever. In fact, it was this restaurant that inspired Len to begin his pizza making.

Pizza In Napoli, 2007 ©Blogginginitaly.com

Pizza In Napoli, 2007 ©Blogginginitaly.com

Today, as in the past, any number of trip review sites are filled with images and stories of the narrow streets, dirty alleys, and attempted purse snatchings. Our loving Tuscan friends caution us to stai attento!, be careful. But what makes me smile are the stories from travelers who stayed longer than one night and took the time to absorb the culture and befriend the people. They gush about their love of Napoli.

Two  years ago, when our daughter Benita visited Napoli as a student, she wrote:

Typically, when you tell someone you’re going to Naples, you either get a frightened look or a frank “be safe.” Usually, it’s both. I would soon learn that these people, many of whom have never even been to Naples, could not have been more misguided about this Italian city. (Rome is Always A Good Idea)

With great anticipation, we depart tomorrow. Stay tuned as our Italian adventure continues!

Ciao,
Judy

Ennio Morricone

5 Mar

In case you missed it, Ennio Morricone, age 87,  walked home with an Oscar this year for his original score for The Hateful Eight. Born in Rome in 1928, he has achieved incredible success as a composer, orchestrator, and conductor. Over the past seven decades, Morricone has composed over 500 scores for cinema and television, as well as over 100 classical works.

Perhaps my favorite of all of his compositions is this, from Cinema Paradiso. It always manages to bring a smile to my face and a few tears to my eyes. Turn up your volume and enjoy.

Bravo, Signor Morricone! Complimenti!

Ciao,
Judy

 

 

Italy #1 in Global Wine Market

2 Mar

According to TheLocal.it, Italy has taken over France’s coveted position as leader of the global wine market. Apparently, American drinkers are due much gratitude.

The article below was published in today’s THE LOCAL it

 

Italy is now the world's biggest producer and exporter of wine. Photo: Torbak Hopper

Italy is now the world’s biggest producer and exporter of wine. Photo: Torbak Hopper

Italy leads global wine market thanks to American drinkers

Published: 02 Mar 2016 14:38 GMT+01:00

“Today, one bottle of wine exported in five is made in Italy, the biggest wine exporter in the world,” Italy’s Coldiretti agricultural association said in a statement.

The country exported a record €5.0 billion worth, a 575-percent increase over 30 years, it said in the study, which examined how the sector had recovered following a 1986 methanol scandal.

The addition of wood spirits to table wine by a family business which wanted to increase the alcohol level of a poor batch had left 23 people dead and dozens of others poisoned, some suffering blindness or neurological damage.

“The image of Made in Italy foodstuffs was dramatically compromised across the world, but it was also a chance for a new start with a revolution which saw Italian wine set out to conquer first place” on the international stage, the association said.

The leap in safeguards and quality saw an increase in designations as well: 66 percent of bottles of wine exported are now classified with the quality assurance labels DOC, DOCG or IGT.

The number one consumer of Italian wine is the United States, which imported €1.3 billion worth in 2015, up 13 percent from 2014, pushing Germany into second place, with Britain ranking third, Coldiretti said.

The appetite for Chiantis and Barolos continues to grow in China, which imported €80 million worth of Italian wine, up 18 percent on 2014, while the market in Japan grew 2.0 percent on the previous year.

In October, the International Organisation of Wine (OIV) brought tears to French eyes by announcing that Italy had overtaken France to become the largest producer of wine.

Whenever we drive through the rolling and majestic hills of neatly planted Italian vineyards, I am reminded of a saying I read on the door of a restaurant:

Wine is the poetry of the earth.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Makes perfect sense to me. Complimenti, Italia. Many of us look forward to helping you keep this title!

Ciao,
Judy

http://www.thelocal.it/20160302/italy-global-wine-market-king-us-top-tippler-study

 

Pollo Arrosto

25 Feb

One of my favorite things to buy at the market in Italy is the pollo arrosto, or roasted chicken.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Simply prepared and cooked on a rotating spit, it’s always crispy and delicious.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

So yesterday, when the weather service issued a warning for Chicago, I thought, why not roast a chicken? Since I didn’t have a rotating spit, I decided to spatchcock my chicken, aka butterfly it.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

I dressed it with a bit of olive oil and a bunch of herbs and put it on a v-shaped rack so that the entire chicken rested above the pan. I surrounded it with chopped onions, sweet potatoes, carrots, and green peppers, then let the whole thing sit uncovered in the frig for a few hours, supposedly to produce a crispier skin.

At 5pm, it went into a 325° oven and roasted slowly for two hours.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

We kind of guessed from the wonderful aroma that filled the house that we were in for a treat, and yes, in fact, we were. Buon appetito!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Makes one almost wish it might snow again soon.

Ciao,
Judy

 

The Moka Man

17 Feb

Who says you can’t take it with you? Not the family of Renato Bialetti, the man responsible for turning the octagonal Italian espresso maker, La Moka, into a global phenomenon.

© 2015 L'Italo-Americano. All rights reserved.

© 2015 L’Italo-Americano. All rights reserved.

Renato Bialetti passed away last week at the age of 93. According to local Italian papers, it was his three children, Alessandra, Antonello and Alfonso, who decided on a most fitting resting place for their father’s ashes – a large Moka.

La caffettiera con le ceneri di Renato Bialetti (foto Danilo Donadio) La Stampa

La caffettiera con le ceneri di Renato Bialetti (foto Danilo Donadio) La Stampa

Renato’s father, Alfonso, completed his design for the Moka Express in 1933. Over the next six years, 70,000 Moka units were produced and marketed in the weekly Piedmont markets. But when son Renato started running the family business in 1946, he was determined to make the Moka world-famous.

His huge marketing campaign, coupled with the addition of a new mascot, proved invaluable.  Renato added Bialetti’s now well-recognized trademark, the Moka mascot, which was based on a humorous cartoon doodle of father Alfonso. The “omino coi baffi”, the little man with mustache ordering an espresso, became the recognized symbol of the Bialetti Moka worldwide.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Why was the Moka such a success? Among other reasons, it enabled all people, not just the wealthy, to brew high-quality, great tasting coffee at home, replacing the need for expensive or primitive coffee makers, or the need to go out for good coffee.

Today, it is estimated that over 330 million units of varying shapes and sizes have been purchased. Count us among the millions!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

RIP Renato, and may you long savor that wonderful espresso aroma.

Ciao,
Judy

 

Buon San Valentino!

14 Feb

For Valentine’s Day, I decided to go all out on family gifts this year.

For Len, the car of his dreams:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

For Benita, an easy way to zip around the city:

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©Blogginginitaly.com

And for me, because I’m kind of a free uber driver, two options:

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©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

So Len and Benita, make room for the new additions. Oh, sorry, I meant room on your walls for the new framed photos, not room in the garage!

Wishing everyone a very Happy St. Valentine’s Day, Buon San Valentino,

and hoping it’s a little bit sweet

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©Blogginginitaly.com

a little bit spicy

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©Blogginginitaly.com

and filled with whatever makes you smile!

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©Blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

Shrove Tuesday, Carnevale in Venezia

9 Feb

Although the high today will reach about 20°, Benita invited Len and me to join her for pazcki, the Polish deep-fried donut that signals the coming of Lent. We headed to Firecakes Donuts in Lincoln Park, where we tried the raspberry ones, then took a lemon for later. Definitely worth the calories!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Eating the pazcki reminded me of Venice’s Carnevale, the huge winter festival celebrated with  parades, masquerade balls, musicians, music, and parties. Although today is Shrove Tuesday, the official date of Carnevale, Italians like others have been celebrating for weeks.

It’s thought that the Carnival of Venice was started as part of a victory celebration in 1162. Over the years, Carnevale took on various meanings, and was outlawed completely in 1797 under the rule of the King of Austria. In the 19th century, it gradually reappeared and in 1979, the Italian government brought it back as a means of highlighting the history and culture of Venice.

Today, approximately 3 million people attend Carnevale annually. They are awed, not only by Venice’s buildings, bridges, gondolas and canals, but also by the incredible attention to detail that goes into the costumes and pageantry. On the last weekend of Carnevale, a competition is held to determine la maschera più bella  or “the most beautiful mask”. The contest is judged by a panel of international costume and fashion designers, and when you see the incredible artistry, you’ll understand why.

Many thanks to my dear friends Marco and Mario for allowing me to share their amazing photos.

©Blogginginitaly.com

Mario in Venetian Mask Shop©Blogginginitaly.com

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Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

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Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

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Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

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Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

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Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

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Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

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Macro/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

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Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

Marco/Mario©Blogginginitaly.com

So glad I didn’t have to choose a favorite – tough work for the judges!

Ciao,
Judy

Saturday Smiles

6 Feb

Who needs comics when truth is often funnier than fiction.

Recently, as reported in The Local.IT, an Italian newspaper, a man from the Ravenna area was summoned to the police station. Apparently, the man’s dog, a Doberman, was accused of biting a man. Now before you feel sorry for the victim, hear the rest of the story.

The dog, a guard dog, had bitten the man, a would be thief who had entered a house during the night.

dog-and-man

The story came to light through a local vet, Fabio Pansera, who wrote about his almost-burgled client’s misfortune on Facebook on January 28th.

According to Pansera’s Facebook page,

“Yesterday a client of mine, who owns a Doberman, was summoned by the authorities because the night before, a thief tried to get into his house but was bitten by the dog,” he wrote. “He has now reported the man and wants compensation for the bite straightaway.”

Pansera then joked that maybe dog owners ought to be teaching their pets good manners – such as wagging their tails at trespassers or offering them some biscuits – because if they attack, then they could end up in serious trouble.

mans-best-friend

Journalists at L’Eco Di Bergamo followed up on the post with the vet, who confirmed the story.

Ciao,
Judy

L’eco di Bergamo

Foiled-burglar-reports-italy-property-owner-over-dog-bite