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Lapo turns 60!

Last year, I wrote about the wonderful dinner we had at Casale delle Torre Agriturismo. Our dear friends Carrol and Larry, who rent there during the summer, had invited us to dinner

Carroll, Lapo, Larry – blogginginitaly.com

and it was there we met Lapo and Paola, the Agriturismo’s proprietors, and now also our friends.

Last night, we were again invited, this time to celebrate Lapo’s 60th birthday. The lovely women in the family, Paola, Ilaria and Laura, threw a surprise party for Lapo, and surprising him was no small feat!

The trees were filled with photos of fond memories of Lapo’s life.

Their wedding

Night gowns for two?

Pheasant Hunting

Sempre amore

Their two successful daughters

And a poster representing 60 years of Lapo’s work, with cheese, sheep and hay –

and place cards to match.

Place cards

The setting could have been in an Italian film, with one beautiful table set for 48.

Lapo’s Birthday table
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And a view no movie set could match.

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Our friend Larry was tasked with keeping Lapo busy from 3:30 till 8:00, not an easy assignment, but alas, they arrived, and we knew Lapo was surprised by the tears rolling down his cheeks.

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Appertivo was poolside, with music and dancing, of course!

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Lapo is a proud farmer who among other things raises his own sheep, and produces wine, olive oil and cheese – a man of many talents for sure.

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He is also affectionately known as “movie star” as he is the sheep herder in Under the Tuscan Sun and appears several times throughout the movie.

Dinner as you might imagine was several delicious courses, most of which I remembered to photograph before eating!

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Fagottini di Borraggione – blogginginitaly.com

Rosemary roasted potatoes
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smoked pork
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Toasts and speeches were made, and Paola read a poem she wrote in the local dialect. Even the Italians next to me from Bergamo didn’t quite understand, but there were plenty of laughs and smiles from those who did. We think we got the gist of it, however, from Paola’s antics!

Paola’s poem to Lapo
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Lapo
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While most were eating, Mother and daughter Laura were busy decorating the homemade cake, again with elements of Lapo’s life.

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Laura decorating the cake, blogginginitaly.com

And the final, very delicious product…

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After dinner, we moved poolside once again to sing Happy Birthday, then Lapo did the honors, fireworks and all!

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Time for more champagne and Lapo’s heartfelt gratitude to his wife and daughters for their love and hard work.

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Afterward, Ilaria read a tribute and followed it with a short and fun movie of Lapo’s life.

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Besides being a great husband and father, Lapo is also a caring and wonderful friend to so many. Just ask his family and friends.

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The evening, which began under the warm summer sunshine and ended under the stars, was filled with love, laughter and the happy celebration of a wonderful man by his loving family.

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Tanti auguri, Lapo!

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E un grande abbraccio,

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Ciao,

Judy e Leonardo

Tags: Casale Delle Torre, Lapo Salvadori, Lapo's 60th Surprise!

Comments 14 Comments
Categories Cortona, Food, Grilling in Italy, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Renting in Cortona, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Treasure or Trash?

22 Jun

Every third Sunday in Cortona, the antique market comes to town. Trash or treasure, it’s in the eye of the beholder, yet it brings many antique followers to town. I keep hoping I’ll find a da Vinci, but alas, none so far.

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Children’s books:

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Remember the Brownie?

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Victoria No 2 – 1825 small sewing machine, still working!

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Serving bowl?

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Actually this is Snoopy but the Madama looks right~

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And then our long walk, with vistas like this everywhere… makes exercise enjoyable.

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Heading to a party tonight. As I close, someone is playing lovely music outside, and it is flowing in with the summer breeze.

Ciao,

Judy

Comments 8 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Market, Italian Art, Italian Festival, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

“An Enchanting Walk”…

21 Jun

There is a new project underway in Cortona entitled An Enchanting Walk Under the Tuscan Sun. The goal of the program (I think) is to increase awareness of the historic center of Cortona and other towns in Tuscany, and it ties to some of Frances Mayes’ writings and some of the shooting locations of the movie. Tonight she was celebrated as a Cortona ambassador and together, we toured some of the town’s historic sites. I had a chance to speak with her briefly and she was very gracious.

Frances Mayes in Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

An unscheduled stop was in the piazza, where there were several vintage sport cars on display including Fiats, Alphas, and a Mercedes or two.

Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Earlier today was the typical wedding concluding on the grand steps of the municipal building, where the uninvited join the guests,

Wedding Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

this one followed by a release of white balloons.

Last night, we enjoyed a wonderful multi-course fish dinner at AD, a new restaurant in town, with a chef from Napoli. I took many photos and will write about it as soon as I can get back to ask the chef what we ate! (There were eight of us and we let the chef decide our dinner.)

Always something interesting happening in Cortona.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: An Enchanting Walk Under the Tuscan Sun, Frances Mayes, Vintage Fiats

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Cortona weddings, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany, Under the Tuscan Sun

Through His Words: Day Twenty-Four (2nd letter)

29 May

Reflections From and About My Grandfather
Alexander Capraro, Architect

Hotel De Rome

Florence
Monday
August 8, 1938

Hello Darling

Well I sure got my fill of walking today. Florence is filled with art treasures of Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Rafael, etc. There are three large art galleries: Galleria Pitti, Uffizi, and Museum of San Marco. They are blocks long and filled with paintings and sculptures of the famous old masters.

Outside the Uffizi -blogginginitaly.com

Dante’s house, the Cathedral and Ponte Vecchio all date back centuries and yet they are here and used as if they were built only yesterday.

The Duomo – blogginginitaly.com

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Baptistry doors – blogginginitaly.com

My feet actually ache and I just got through taking a bath and treating my feet to soothe them a little. I am glad in a way that Joe was not with me, because he could never stand up under the strain, especially with a bad heart. It is just impossible to see everything worthwhile seeing in only a few days. It takes at least a week and I can’t spare that much time. I leave one place thinking it has the best in sculpture, painting, tapestries, etc., only to find the next place is richer than the one before. It actually makes you dizzy trying to take it all in.

Ponte Vecchio – blogginginitaly.com

I intend on leaving for Pisa and Montecatini at 8:10 in the morning and coming back to Florence later in the evening. Then I shall get to Siena for a half day and then Rome.

Pisa – blogginginitaly.com

So much for my activities, now how about you? I still haven’t had word from you and I am actually starving for want of something from home. What in the world has happened? If you wrote me even after I landed here, I should have received your letters by now. Fortunately, I have met many Americans who are traveling about the same itinerary as I am, and it has been a comfort because as long as we are Americans when we meet here, we have a feeling of being neighbors.

It’s easy to understand Alex’s growing concern for news from home, especially after more than three weeks. His tone now had a slight edge to it that came across even on paper. Fortunately, there was much to keep him busy and distract him, at least until writing time, which was usually late at night when he was tired.

I have given up hope of hearing from you until I get to Rome now, but I hope to God I’ll get mail there, otherwise I’ll go nutty. I am starting to miss you more every day and the only medicine good for it is a letter from you. So good night and pleasant dreams. Love to the children and a big kiss for you, Al

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Duomo, Galleria Pitti, Hotel De Rome Firenze, Ponte Vecchio, Uffizi

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Categories Da Vinci, Firenze, Italian Art, Italian History, Italy, Michelangelo, My Blog about Italy, Through HIs Words: Reflections From and About My Grandfather, Tuscany

Strong Italian Women

18 Mar

I come from a long line of strong Italian women. They may have differed in size, shape, personality, temperament, and accomplishment, but they shared some important characteristics: independence and fortitude.

Fortunately, this is not unique to my family. Miranda, my Italian teacher’s mother, was another such lady. Although I never met her, I had the pleasure of speaking to her on the phone a year ago in Italy. Like so many of her generation, she didn’t need a college education to demonstrate her skills.

When Miranda moved to Chicago with her husband, she wanted to work. She knew she had a knack for design as she made all of her own clothes, so she headed downtown to Marshall Fields. When they asked for her resume, she instead asked them for some fabric. Watching her work her magic, they hired Miranda on the spot.

Miranda Brigiotti in her own design in Chicago, late 50’s.

After some years in America, she returned to her native Italy, still independent and feisty. Many years later, at the age of 88, she became what is believed to be the oldest Italian to get her driver’s license. When asked why, at 88, she responded, “Because it’s necessary to be independent!” And later, when proudly showing her license and asked again why now, she replied, “Because I’m still young!”

Sadly, Miranda passed away in January, 10 days before her 91 birthday, but she remains a great role model for us all! You don’t need to understand Italian to enjoy this wonderful YouTube of Miranda, posted by her niece, as the interviewer describes “the red-haired elegant woman dressed in black who finally got her driver’s license at the age of 88!”

Brava, Miranda… Complimenti!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Driving in Italy, Getting a license at 88!, Independent Italian Women, La piu' anziana neopatentata d'Italia, Miranda Brigiotti, Oldest Italian to get her driver's license

Comments 8 Comments
Categories Italian Fashion, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Cortona in Winter

12 Feb

I always wondered what Cortona would be like in winter, and now I know. The same wonderful people, the same beautiful town, albeit a little quieter, and the same feeling like I’m home…ok, also colder and sometimes rainy, but certainly warm compared to Chicago.

Benita and I took the train from Roma last Saturday and spent two wonderful days and nights in Cortona. It’s an incredible feeling to walk through the market or down a street and recognize so many faces. We shopped, walked, ate, drank, talked and laughed with our wonderful Cortonese friends.

I think the pictures and smiles tell the story!

Grazie ai nostri amici per un tempo meraviglioso!

And Len, this one is for you…un baccino from Daniela!

Can’t wait to return this summer!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Bucaccia Ristorante, Casale della Torre, Cortona, Il Pozzo Galleria, Tuscher Caffe

Comments 10 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Preludio

14 Nov

Sometimes, we walk by a place, take note, and know we need to return. That was the case for us with Preludio, an elegant restaurant in Cortona. Unfortunately it took us three summers to eat there, but now it’s on our annual To-Do list.

From the outside looking in, it seems as though this is a restaurant for celebrating an occasion – a birthday, an anniversary, etc. Draped linens adorn the tables which are set with long stem wine glass and glowing candles.

Local friends Luca and Simone first introduced us to the restaurant and assured us that wanting great food is occasion enough. Fortunately for us, they did all the ordering, but I must admit, we dined as if we were celebrating a big occasion. First things first, some incredible wine from the Bolgheri region of Italy.

Then on to the primi. The attention to detail at Preludio is as incredible as the food, and the presentation of each dish is truly a work of art. I especially loved how our friends chose their favorite local and regional dishes to share with us. While I can’t remember the names of many of the dishes, I do remember the taste.

Escalope of foie gras sauce, lettuce, grapefruit and potatoes pumpkin

Not being such a foie gras aficionado, I was very content sitting next to this incredible fondue!

For the secondo, we were treated to a Tuscan trio – two pastas with meat and one saffron porcini risotto with black truffle. I headed right for the risotto!

Although two-thirds of my plate was still covered, our friends wanted us to share a Florentine steak. With no more room for dinner, we finally agreed on dessert which they insisted was mandatory. Well, feast your eyes!

According to their website:

Preludio is always looking for new challenges posed by the evolution of taste, frequently revisited by combining creativity and continuity and adapting it to the current seasons.

Do not ask us what is our main dish, because our ambition is to ensure that every dish that leaves our kitchen is new and unique…

Sometimes a night doesn’t need a special occasion to celebrate as the night itself becomes the occasion. Our dinner at Preludio with our local friends was one of those nights. Grazie for a special night we will long remember.

Just like in English, the name Preludio (prelude) means the beginning or an introduction. I’m so glad we’ve been introduced!

Ciao,

Judy

Postscript:

Len and I enjoyed the restaurant so much, we returned another evening for a “simpler” dinner of risotto, salmon, artichokes and potatoes. We’ll be back for more.

Tags: Bolgheri, Cortona, Italian cuisine, Preludio

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Italian Art, Italian Food, Italian WIne, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, Cortona

20 Sep

Since it’s Friday, I was thinking about where I’d like to have dinner tonight. A simple choice would be Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, except for the fact that it is in Cortona and we are in Chicago. Oh, well, I can still think about what we might order after receiving a warm welcome from Alessandro, owner and always visible greeter.

The entrance to the two-story restaurant is on Via Roma, and you can choose indoor or limited outdoor seating. According to its website, “It was the first restaurant opened in the medieval town of Cortona, around 1904.” The word cacciatore means “hunter” in Italian, and the restaurant serves typical Tuscan dishes and “specialities including grilled meat chianina, ribollita and pici with meat sauce,” a local pasta favorite.

There’s an ample selection of wines to choose from, and the house wine is fine as well.

The food is very good, and the atmosphere and staff are always warm and inviting.

Whether we stop in for pizza and a tomato salad

or enjoy a leisurely dinner, there is always a nice variety to choose from.

Tonight, perhaps we’d start with an antipasto of cheeses and freshly sliced meats…

or order pici with speck and tomatoes.

After, we’d choose sliced steak with rosemary

or delicious roasted chicken, (my favorite!)

some hot off-the-grill veggies

and of course, wonderful roasted potatoes!

So simple, so delicious.

And to top off a most satisfying dinner, why not a little tiramisu? (It’s so much better in Italy!)

All in a night’s work, but then someone gets to do it. Just wish it could be us tonight!

Whether it’s just the two of us, or we are part of a large group, Ristorante IL CACCIATORE is one of our favorite go-to restaurants in Cortona.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cacciatore, Cortona, food, leisurely dinner, Restaurant in Cortona, restaurants, roasted potatoes, tuscan dishes

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Grilling in Italy, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Il Pozzo

14 Sep

One of the things that makes Cortona unusual is the amount of art one can see in this lovely town. Two incredible museums, as well as many churches, are home to magnificent art and/or artifacts. Surely these are not to be missed.

But once you fall in love with the town, how can you take a piece of it home? That’s easy. Visit Il Pozzo.

Il Pozzo, meaning the well, is located just off the busy Via Nazionale. It doesn’t take long to get caught up in the music and art that fill the senses before even entering the gallery.

And while wonderful art treasures await, so does an unexpected architectural journey.

Meet Ivan, proprietor with his wife Loriana. Ivan is as happy to show you around the building and share its history as he is finding the right treasure for you to take home. He also speaks English quite well!

Paraphrasing and borrowing from their website description,

The voices of the busy Via Nazionale seem centuries of history away…

Visitors can contemplate the medieval ambiance uncovered two levels below the modern-day street, tastefully returned to the light with its ancient aspect and functionality.

One should not miss the unique well “ad ampolla” from which the Gallery “Il Pozzo” takes its name and in which there are traces of the ancient knowledge and architectural skill of the Etruscans ancestors’ civilization.

Here, nothing is left to happenstance and every wall, every nook and every shelf becomes a frame for an interesting detail, underlining the value of the artistic and artisan objects displayed.

The attention and interest of the visitor is fed with the variety of the paintings, photographs, prints, books, engravings, ceramics,

and artisan crafts such as leather-covered books, hand crafted papers, jewels and objects in glass

which are an integral part of the history and customs of Tuscany.

The Gallery “Il Pozzo” can be summed up as an encounter between Cortona and the visitor.

That said, it seems to correspond to the high level of historic and artistic tradition of the homeland of Signorelli, of Pietro Berrettini and of Gino Severini.

Everything here seems to court the taste and artistic sensibilities of the refined tourist of the new century.

This past summer, we found an original watercolor that seemed to have our name on it. Wonderful art has that quality – it somehow speaks to its eventual owner. Lucky for us, we brought some of ancient Cortona back to our home through this beautiful work by Allesandro Bulli. Not a day goes by that we don’t enjoy looking at it and reliving a story.

For us, this vividly captures many of our daily stops: morning cappuccino at a cafe, a local enoteca, the grocery store, a bit of the two main piazzas, a restaurant overlooking the historic center, etc.

Whether you are just browsing or looking for something special to purchase, there is never any pressure at Il Pozzo. If you do find something for yourself or for a gift, Ivan will carefully and beautifully prepare it for its journey home.

And, of course, prepare you an espresso while you wait!

So be sure to put Il Pozzo on your list of places to visit in Cortona, and tell Ivan and Loriana that Judy sent you. Your visit will be fun and fabulous, and give you the opportunity to take a little piece of Cortona home with you too. We’re so happy we did!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: architecture, artisan crafts, arts, Cortona, Cortona art gallery, Il Pozzo Gallery, medieval ambiance, Via Nazionale

Comments 5 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian Art, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Shopping, Tuscany

15,000+ Views!

31 Aug

I am delighted to report that this week, Blogginginitaly.com surpassed 15,000 views! Pretty amazing, especially as it began as a fun way for me to share our travels with family members and a few friends.

Over the last two years, my blog has been my journal, giving me a place to record my thoughts, experiences and pictures as we travel around Italy.

To my surprise and delight, its reach has broadened and now includes viewers from over 80 countries.

Many thanks for all your thoughtful comments and encouragement. Writing my blog is an endless learning curriculum for me – one that is filled with never-ending yet truly satisfying homework.