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Cortona Market Set up

8 Jun

If you wake early enough, you can watch the empty Piazza Signorelli come to life on Saturday morning and become the open market.  We have wondered how all the trucks arrive and set up, as the streets leading to the Piazza are narrow and steep. This morning we found out.

A truck that becomes a canopied stall looks like this when closed:

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Between 7-8 am, dozens of trucks maneuver through the narrow streets to reach their assigned  spaces. This truck actually made it through without hitting anything!

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In an ancient town like Cortona, one might expect market stalls to be rather simplistic. However, that is anything but true. These modern marvels are fascinating. If you have ever seen a factory with automation in full bloom, you’d still be impressed with the robotic mechanisms on these trucks which transform them into stand-alone self-sufficient markets.

As you can see in the video, articulated robotic arms open and move canopies and sides into all directions to become  open-air covered stores. Then the contents are moved outside, whether clothes, shoes, household goods or food.

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Gabriella and Luigi, our Saturday roasted chicken vendors, told us about their truck. We learned that there is a factory between here and Firenze that customizes each truck to fit the needs of the vendor. Some  just need canopies, while others, like them, require refrigeration and spit-fired roasters. Whatever the need, the factory can oblige. Some of the canopies are even opened by hand-held remote controls. Incredible!

Like so many other proprietors in town, the “roaming marketeers” are self-sufficient, hard-working people who cater to the needs of their customers. Some set up at multiple markets throughout the week, different towns, different days. Cortona is one of the smaller markets, so it is easy to get to know the vendors. They are helpful and always have a kind word and a smile. A most enjoyable morning and well worth an early start to this warm and sunny day!

Ciao,

Judy

Cortona: Back to Normal

2 Jun

Today, Sunday in Cortona, life back to normal, warm and sunny!

We hiked the hills

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The men returned to their benches

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The Saturday market was replaced by the Medieval Market: 

Breads

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SpicesIMG_0561

Beans

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Grilled local sausagesIMG_0594

Ciaccia (fried dough)…note the cell phone!

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Cheeses and local products

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And the workers!

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People have returned to the piazzas

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Life is good!

Tomorrow, weather permitting, we take to the road, not sure which direction, and perhaps no internet. Stay tuned!

Just now, as I am finishing this, black clouds have filled the skies and the winds are swirling. Nonetheless, a wonderful day! Good we have those leftovers…

Ciao,

Judy

Taverna Pane e Vino, Cortona

27 May

Pane e Vino. Bread and Wine. Food and Italy. Judy and Len. Some things just go together.

So what are these, you ask? Cheese stuffed gnocchi with fresh sautéed artichokes and sun dried tomatoes. And yes, they are as good as they look!

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A sampling of bruschetta

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and some thinly sliced zucchini with cannellini beans, shaved pecorino and lettuce.

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Taverna Pane e Vino is located in Piazza Signorelli in Cortona. The covered entrance (beyond the arched glass door) serves as an open market in the morning which disappears later in the day to become the entrance to this local restaurant at night.

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The owner, Arnaldo, and Len talked about a few events they will be hosting this summer.

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All is a day’s work!

Ciao,

Judy

Anticipation!

7 Apr

With the calendar reading April, I am filled with anticipation. As I look out the window, or take walks, my eyes are surrounded with the signs of spring…plants pushing aside their winter hibernation as they eagerly seek sunshine; trees coming to life and showing off their annual budding ritual.

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In addition to spring, I am also anticipating our return to Cortona. According to local friend Patricia, spring is also in the air.

“April 3rd was a fine day.  It wasn’t very warm but the sun was shining and it felt like spring.  This made everybody particularly happy because of an Italian proverb:

Terzo Aprilante, quaranta dì durante, 

or as some say,

Terzo aquilante, quaranta dì durante.

That means that if it rains on April 3rd, it will rain for 40 days!  After all the rain we have had, nobody could bear the thought of that, so the sunny day was a great relief!”

Sure hope the proverb holds true!

So, on this sunny Sunday, a few other things I look forward to in Cortona:

Getting back to piazza life –

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Taking in the incredible vistas –

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 Marveling at the architecture –

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Strolling the local markets –

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Enjoying simply delicious food –

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Sharing some incredible vino –

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Being immersed in “Italian class” every day –

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And after walking for miles, sometimes just hanging out with Len in Piazza Gharibaldi, watching tourists come and go, and feeling, if only for a short time, that we belong to this little piece of heaven – 

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Perfetto!

Ciao,

Judy

Springtime in Cortona

29 Mar

Cortona Spring is more than just a time of year. In the town of Cortona, it is a week of events commemorating spring and Easter week.

Tonight, on Good Friday, there’s a procession through the streets. Men carrying statues of Christ from various churches process through town. The statues, large and heavy, are carried on the shoulders of strong men in hooded cloaks.

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Others carry large crosses in the procession.

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Locals and visitors follow behind as the procession, which begins at the Church of Santo Spirito, passes several other churches and eventually ends in the historic Piazza della Repubblica.

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Patricia, my local friend, describes the procession as “quite dramatic.” On Saturday evening, assuming the weather cooperates, the skies above Cortona will once again be lit by lanterns (minus the Christmas decorations!).

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On Sunday, as in many parts of the world, families will gather at one of the many beautiful churches in Cortona to celebrate Easter. Later in the day, in their homes, they will gather with family and friends to feast on traditional dishes and Easter specialties.

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Whatever your traditions may be, I hope you have time to celebrate them with family and friends.

 

Buona Pasqua a tutti!

Ciao,

Judy

More About those Lanterns

11 Jan

Some updates from yesterday’s post:

After Patricia sent me the originals details, including that the lanterns were made of tissue paper, I did some research on them. The ones I found were fire resistant, but apparently not so true for the ones launched in Cortona. Per Patricia, the following updates:

The lanterns weren’t fire resistant at all! In fact if you weren’t careful they caught fire before taking off, and some did just that.  

Also, it is the second time Cortona has had these lanterns but the first time wasn’t last Christmas.  It was meant to be for Valentine’s Day, 2012, and held  on the nearest Saturday to 14th February, but Cortona was under snow so it was postponed and done in March to welcome Spring instead.

 

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So, who knows which season the next lantern launch will celebrate? Only the weather can tell for sure!

Ciao,

Judy

Lanterns above Cortona

11 Jan

We often think of traditions as steeped in history, handed down from generation to generation. Yet every day, every year, and in any place, a new tradition can be born. Such is the case in Cortona, where a new tradition has begun. This event was scheduled for December 26, but a rainy night forced a three-day postponement.

On December 29, a lovely Saturday evening, many gathered in Piazza della Repubblica for the second annual lighting of the lanterns.

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People from neighboring Arezzo, dressed as Father Christmas, organized the event and provided music and entertainment for the delighted children and all who joined in the celebration.

The details and accompanying photos are from Patricia, my local friend, who continues to enlighten me with winter happenings in Cortona.

Each lantern is about 32” tall by 22” wide and made of fire resistant paper. A fuel cell (looks like a piece of coated cardboard) is included and attached to a wire frame at the bottom of the lantern.

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At 6 PM, there was a countdown. Together, people lit the fuel cells, released the lanterns, and, of course, made a wish. I so prefer wishes to resolutions!

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Quite a number of people, some local and many from regions throughout Italy, filled the normally quiet- in- winter piazza that special evening and watched wide-eyed as the sky above the piazza glowed with floating lights.

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No matter from which region they hailed, those gathered enjoyed a spectacular evening and helped carry on a young tradition.

Weather permitting, the lanterns can fly about 1/3 mile – an amazing sight for sure. Once their flames die, the lanterns float slowly to the ground. And while the flames may die, the young tradition continues and Patricia’s lovely photos provide an incredible image that will linger for a long time.

Ciao,

Judy

Andiamo al Mercato!

31 May

Getting the girls moving earlier in the day is easy when I announce, “Let’s go to the market!” First stop, however, cappuccini per cinque…cappuccini for five.

Sarah and Benita

Judy and Len

Mike

On Thursdays, the large market spreads its wares in Camucia, the city at the bottom of the hill. There’s something for everyone: food, kitchen, shoes, clothes, lingerie, toys, linens, flowers, every kind of stuff, and unlike the antique market that was in Cortona on Sunday, everything is new.

And shop we did, well, we girls did anyway. Shortly after arriving, Len and Mike found a caffe where they gradually moved from cappuccini to birra and panini while waiting for us, but they didn’t mind a bit.

Camucia Market

Camucia Market

Prosciutto

Funghi crudi – raw mushrooms – you eat in a salad – the most expensive!

Bellissimi fiori

Arance and ciliegie

Sarah buying her purse

Some of our purchases!

We returned to Cortona for a light lunch outside at Cacio Brillo and were witness to another beautiful wedding.

On the balcony

This one added a new dimension where the bride and groom delighted their guests with a kiss, (this time after the ceremony!) on the balcony of the Commune.

And off they went!

Tonight we are going to relax at home with a large fresh tomato salad and a few pizzas from the local pizzeria. Perhaps later we will get some gelato. Len has figured out the washer and dryer, (unusual in Italy!)…the engineer in him always does! Just one machine at a time, however!

And finally, a nice thing happened to me on the way to the bus this morning. As we walked passed the home we rented last year, a woman leaned out of the second floor window. “Do you write a blog?” she asked. Could it be that she recognized me from my blog photos? Quite surprised, I answered yes! She said she had read the blog and as a result, rented the home for a week with her daughter. Wow…so happy to have helped!

All in a day’s fun – and it’s only 5:09 PM.

Ciao!

Judy

Never Leave Home w/o It…

23 Jun

Your camera! Last night, after a grand dinner, we decided to take a walk just for the fresh air…no gelato, no vino, so we thought, no need for our camera. Sure enough, as soon as we entered Piazza della Republicca, there was Albert Einstein reincarnated, in black tails no less, wild hair as white as snow, coaxing a flute to sing like the birds. Accompanying him was an orchestra on CD, and together they played Nessun Dorma (None shall sleep). Florence, you would have loved this…Benita, not sure if you remember, but we saw Pavarotti sing this live in Austin! Was it the best ever? Probably not, but truly memorable in the piazza under the stars.

Speaking of the piazza, it has occurred to me since we have been here that piazzas are truly a way of life in Italy. I’ve been in hundreds of different ones in my European visits, but perhaps not the same ones for as many nights in a row as we have in Cortona. That is the beauty afforded by a smaller town…the faces become familiar. And as you study the facades, you realize that while the faces change, the piazza doesn’t…not really…if only those buildings could talk.

The two main piazzas in Cortona are Signorelli and Republicca, which essentially connect to one another. They are each surrounded by magnificent old buildings, restaurants, osterias, bars and shops; they are thoroughfares for vehicles and pedestrians as well as playgrounds for children. Each evening, the locals and some tourists like us gather to engage in piazza life. We talk and laugh as we sip vino or enjoy gelato, or as in the case of last night, listen to a musician share his passion with us. Having difficulty loading images tonight, so only one of the Commune in Piazza Republicca in the evening, where “Einstein”  was last night.

Tonight on our walk, there was a band playing in the piazza and more people than usual…life in the piazza…one never knows what to expect!

My Promise: Camera and I are now joined at the hip. Also, you should be able to enlarge any photo by clicking on it! If your eyes are like mine, it sure helps!

Ciao,

Judy