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Sharing Cortona

6 Sep

My Chicago Italian teacher, Giovanna, a Tuscan native, and her dear friends Clarissa and Sergio, who live about two hours away in Tuscany, have been with us for two beautiful days. We have walked, talked, climbed, dined, and been welcomed by our wonderful local friends who call this incredible town home.

Among other things, we visited two of our favorite eateries, Caffe Tuscher for appertivo and Prosecco –

Tuscher Caffe©Blogginginitaly.com

Tuscher Caffe©Blogginginitaly.com

and AD Braceria for dinner…

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

as well as our favorite gallery, Il Pozzo.

Il pozzo ©Blogginginitaly.com

Il Pozzo ©Blogginginitaly.com

At each, not only were our visitors surprised by the creativity and quality of the food and art, they were also charmed by our friends, the proprietors, who willingly share their knowledge of the history of the ancient buildings that house their establishments.

One of the things I often tell people is that Cortona has a never-ending supply of surprises, and today did not disappoint. After emerging from the Cortonantiquaria, an important antique show that has been coming here for 55 years, we followed a drum beat to the central piazzas. Piazza Signorelli was filled with luxury autos…

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

and in Piazza Repubblica, the flag bearers were performing to the beat of the drums.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

In addition, the weather was perfect – bright blue skies filled with sunshine and gentle breezes. Our friends proclaimed, “If we had ordered a perfect day, it would have been today!”

We ended the day at Le Celle, where St. Francis of Assisi spent part of his monastic life.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

At Le Celle, we noticed these caper bushes growing on the stone walls. Amazing nature.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

While we are having many visitors this fall, and look forward to sharing Cortona with them, it was particularly gratifying to see native Tuscans fall in love with Cortona. It is truly a special place – its ancient beauty, its warm people, and its fascinating history and culture. It is not a town that shuts down at sunset, nor a town that has an overabundance of tour groups. It is, as my friend Paula said, a town that works. Bravo Cortona.

Finally, I am proud to report that Giovanna and her friends were impressed with my Italian. When here, I am in language training 24/7, but I would never have progressed without Giovanna as my cara professoressa.

Grazie Giovanna, for coming to Cortona and for introducing us to your dear friends and now ours as well. Auguri!

AD Bracceria©Blogginginitaly.com

AD Bracceria©Blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,

Judy

For more on Le Celle, including photos and a short video I made a few years ago, please click here: https://blogginginitaly.com/2013/06/12/franciscan-hermitage-of-le-celle-cortona/

 

 

 

Familiarity

3 Sep

We awoke this morning to the sites, sounds and smells of Cortona – and fell into our familiar rituals. Morning cappuccino, an uphill 2.5 mile hike to Torreone, the “take your pick” downhill roads leading back to town, lunch at Caffe Tuscher, an afternoon nap, appertivo with friends, and a light dinner.

I’m reminded of a Peter Allen/ Carole Bayer Sager song, Everything Old is New Again:

Don’t throw the past away
You might need it some rainy day
Dreams can come true again
When everything old is new again

Exactly when we fell in love with Cortona is unclear – perhaps our very first day in June, 2011. We had long planned and dreamt about spending significant time in Italy, and for us, this continues to be the dream come true.

Seeing Cortona in the fall already brings a newness. Fewer people, many fewer children and strollers, and a final let up of the heat wave that surrounds Italy in the summer. The olives are ripening on the trees, the zucchini blossoms are gone, and the sun flowers are getting ready for harvest. But the incredible views

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

and the enticing smells coming from kitchens remain the same. Somethings just never get old.

This evening, as is customary on Thursday nights, a band played in Piazza Signorelli.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

We joined the others and dined al fresco with friends. A perfect ending to a perfect day.

Dreams can come true again
When everything old is new again.

Ciao,

Judy

 

 

Cortona: The Journey Continues – Year 5

2 Sep

On our way…Len, me and the Fitbit…

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Many hours later…tired but happy…back with these wonderful friends at Cafe Tuscher, a bit of Prosecco and delicious appertivo in an Etruscan town. Incantevole. (Enchanting)

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Much more to come.

Ciao,

Judy

An Adventure in Self-Discovery

19 Jun

People often ask Len and me why we return to Italy each year. The food, the culture, the art, the people, the history? What is it that continues to draw us to the same place?

Perhaps the writer, D.H. Lawrence, expressed our sentiments best:

“For us to go to Italy and to penetrate into Italy
is like a most fascinating act of self-discovery.”

How very true. Returning to the same place, year after lovely year, is what allows us to experience Italy in a way a casual tourist simply cannot. For us, it’s a dream come true, a goal realized.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

And no, that’s not our house, but it is one of our favorite Cortona views.
Till next we meet…
IMG_4746

2011, First Summer in Cortona ©Blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

Celebrating Women

27 Mar

March is Women’s History Month, a month in which we pay tribute to the generations of women whose commitment to a variety of things have proved invaluable to society. As the month draws to a close, I’d like to pause and appreciate the women in my life, not only for their accomplishments but also for their joy of living. Whatever path those who preceded me chose or that those around me are choosing, here’s to your unending spirit, your joy of life, and the love and happiness you share.

I know these videos will bring a smile to your face. And as we age, may we always take the time to share a long walk, and if not a hole in one, (although I actually had one in 2001!), may we all jump rope together!

Ciao,

Judy

 

For the second video, click on the title Vecchie bastarde!

 

 

Buona Festa di San Giuseppe!

19 Mar

March 19 is the feast of St. Joseph, patron saint of the family, and it is a feast day celebrated by Italians everywhere. Growing up in a neighborhood filled with many Irish and Italian families, I was always happy that the Italians also had their day in March to celebrate.

Joseph the Carpenter, 1642, Louvre, by Georges de La Tour

Joseph the Carpenter, 1642, Louvre, by Georges de La Tour

Of course, not quite as loud or rowdy as St. Patrick’s Day, we nonetheless celebrated the feast of St. Joseph with a food fest. And while the Irish had their green beer and accessories, the Italians, often sporting something red, had their zeppole, a cream filled fried pastry that originated in Napoli.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

According to my fellow blogger, MariaGiovanna, (Sharing My Italy) the “Zeppole di SanGiuseppe” originated in Naples, Italy, “where the first recipe was put on paper, in 1837, by the famous Neapolitan gastronome Ippolito Cavalcanti, Duke of Buonvicino.”

Fortunately, you don’t have to be in Italy to enjoy a zeppole. In Chicago, they can be found in authentic Italian bakeries such as Ferrara Bakery on Taylor Street. Light, airy and filled with cream, it is fun to see the smiles they generate on those wiping the cream from their lips.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

At this time of year, Ferrara’s and Italian bakeries everywhere are busy filling and selling hundreds of dozens of the cream filled gems.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

So, to those looking to get beyond the grey days of winter, here’s an idea – participate in a St. Joseph’s Day custom by sharing some food with the needy and with some friends, and, of course, be sure to bring some zeppole!

Ciao,

Judy

From Grape to Glass

3 Mar

While we continue to meet Chicagoans who visit Cortona, it is less often that the Cortonese visit us. But Saturday was an exception. Meet Denis Zeni.

Denis is the “titolare” – or owner – of Leuta, a boutique winery in the Cortona area. He is visiting several cities in the States and conducting wine tastings in his hosts’ homes.

©Blogginginitaly.com

Denis in center with hosts     ©Blogginginitaly.com

Denis’ story, like so many other entrepreneurs we meet in Italy, is a love story based on deep-rooted traditions. His grandfather cultivated grapes on his land in Trentino, in northern Italy, and shared his passion with his young grandson. Constantly at his grandfather’s side, Denis soon grew to love the land and over time, the possibilities.

Denis’ father, however, hoping for a different life for his son, eventually sold the family land, and encouraged Denis to seek a career in Finance. Denis obliged, but after a successful career and several finance degrees, he awoke one day and decided, “I don’t want to die as a banker!” Not that there is anything wrong with banking, he notes, it just didn’t mesh with the passion that had been ignited in his blood as a child.

With his grandfather’s land no longer available, Denis searched and found land in Tuscany to launch his dream. What began as The Tuscany Project, a small initiative with his friend and then partner Enzo, is now the Leuta Estate, approximately 62 acres at 31o meters above sea level near Cortona.

But back to the wine tasting. As we enjoyed delicious Tuscan antipasti prepared by our amazing hosts,

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Denis shared some of his personal history as well as that of Leuta. He then began pouring the first of five wines we would taste.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Wine tastings are a fun and interesting way to sample various wines and learn something about each. They usually include a 5 step process: see, swirl, sniff, sip, savor. As I listened attentively to Denis, it occurred to me that this tasting was quite different from most others we have attended.  And I quickly realized why.

Denis not only knew about these wines, he was personally connected to all aspects, from grape to glass. He described the vines, how they were planted, how they behaved as they grew, the choice to avoid/limit chemicals, the grape selection, the harvesting process, the aging, the bottling, the mistakes and the successes. It became clear to me that the bottles held not only his wines but also his dreams and life’s work.

Similar to the eye of the beholder, I believe that wine preference is in the senses of the taster. Expensive or not doesn’t necessarily mean great or not. But a really nice wine seems to taste even better when I know its history and understand its traditions.

Grazie, Denis, for sharing your wonderful story and wines with us! We look forward to spending time with you at Leuta.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

In the meantime, as we enjoy our new purchases, we will toast to you and recall the history you shared with us. Your grandfather is surely smiling.

Ciao,

Judy

For more information:
http://www.leuta.it

 

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Italian Tradition – Home Cooking

26 Feb

One of the very best things to enjoy in Italy is the food. But what makes it so special? In a word, local. Italians pride themselves on eating and cooking what is locally available, and in many cases, home grown. That means that menus not only change with the seasons, they are also based on long standing regional traditions passed on from one generation to the next, and, of course, dictated by the terroir or environment.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

When I first began traveling to Italy, I always wished that I would be invited into the home of a local. I wanted to experience the lady of the house cooking for her family, to learn from her and then eat what was prepared. It’s hard to walk the narrow streets of small towns and villages and not get caught up in the delicious smells and banter bellowing from the windows at lunch and dinner.

Luckily for us, we now have native Italian friends who invite us into their homes and give us this opportunity.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

But as we travel to other parts of Italy, is there a way to have similar experiences?

Meet Le Cesarine, a group of  “landlords chosen through a careful selection by Home Food in order to preserve and promote the heritage of wisdom, tradition and culture hidden in the thousands of recipes of our regional cuisine.” According to their website,

Home Food has built a network of “Cesarine” all over the peninsula in order to offer the possibility to find in many places in Italy a cosy table, rich of food prepared and maintained for the members only. For the reason that the “Cesarine” do not manage a restaurant in their houses, but invite you to their tables as a guest of the family who shares the passion for the tradition, the land and its tastes, values, which constitute the mission of Home Food.

Home Foods, founded in 2004, is a collaborative effort among several groups in Italy whose goal is to “spread the culture of traditional food interwoven with the culture of the typical products and the particular area.”

If you think about it, Italy has thousands of informally trained household cooks who, without recipes, create incredible meals from starter through dessert. Home Food has tapped into this resource and created a network of cesarine – grandmothers, mothers, aunts and daughters, who are knowledgeable of their local area, passionate about cooking, and willing to share their traditions as they host events in their homes.

Through Home Food, registered members have the opportunity to learn traditional culinary methods, eat traditional meals, and truly experience regional Italian culture in the home of a cesarine.

I learned of this organization through an article by Irene Levine in the Chicago Tribune, dated February 1, 2015. She and her husband had the opportunity to experience a cooking lesson in the home of a cesarine from Bologna. Although I have not yet participated, Irene’s story presented a way for travelers to experience the flavors and culinary traditions throughout Italy as guests in a local home. If your Italy TO DO list includes a mini cooking class, or eating in the home of a local, this might well be your opportunity.

Their calendar includes event dates, locations, recipes, a bit of history, and pricing. And if you partake, I’d love to hear your feedback.

Buon Appetito!

www.homefood.it/en

Ciao,

Judy

 

Homemade Ravioli with Friends

6 Feb

Knowing that we love to make homemade pizza and bread, (well, Len makes it and I eat it), my niece surprised us with this beautiful ravioli rolling pin. Truth be told, neither Len nor I had ever made homemade pasta, nor had we ever thought to do so.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

So there it sat, since Christmas, staring back at us and egging us on…”come try me” it seemed to call out each time we passed by. So we gathered the usual suspects for a day of cooking/baking and added ravioli to the menu. After all, how hard could it be?

Giovanni, Len’s cooking buddy, made incredible dough for baguettes while Len whipped up some delicious Sicilian pizza for us to eat while contemplating the ravioli roller. With vino in hand, we watched the YouTube from Repast, the maker of the rolling pin.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Confident in our skills, Susanna took to the stove to create a porcini tomato sauce as I made the ricotta pecorino filling.

Since this was my very first pasta making experience, I decided to forego the mixer and do it all by hand. And Giovanni promised to help with the kneading and rolling, so why not.

Did it work? Click on the video produced by Giovanni to find out. And special thanks and musical credit to Andrea Bocelli for serenading us with Romanza and Rapsodia.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GXzu7-7l4E

Ciao,

Judy

 

“Italy the Extraordinary Commonplace”

25 Jan

We often read of the demise of Italy as a major producer and exporter, so the following video was made to counter some of these less than favorable descriptions.

Per Matteo Renzi, Prime Minister of Italy,

The video “Italy the extraordinary commonplace” is designed to show Italy beyond stereotypes, a major producer of technological goods and the second European exporter in mechanical engineering and automation. 

Since I love visiting Italy, I found this information to be great news. As for the format, well, leave it to the ever creative Italians. Thanks, Anna, for sharing.

Ciao,

Judy