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Franciscan Hermitage of Le Celle, Cortona

12 Jun

The Franciscan Hermitage of Le Celle, one of the most beautiful and spiritual places in Cortona, was built in the foothills of Monte S. Egidio in a natural gorge carved out by a stream.

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This hill-top monastery, a few miles from the center of Cortona, was founded in 1211 by St. Francis of Assisi and some of his followers. It was then they built the original nine “cells” providing the Hermitage with the name Le Celle ever since.

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When you enter the area, you are reminded of the nature of the holy space as well as encouraged to be open to all it has to offer.

Brothers and Sister, the presence of St. Francis of Assisi has sanctified this place…

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In 1226, a few months before his death, St. Francis dictated his will here. Brother Elia is credited with carrying out the details of the will and ensured that the Hermitage reflected all aspects of Franciscan life. It is believed he created the chapel, shown below, in front of the small “cell” where St. Francis lived for a few years. (Friar Chuck, thinking of you as we walked the grounds.)

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The door from the chapel to St. Francis’ cell is shown upper right.  His small cell, shown below, is just large enough for a bed (wooden plank far wall), a table and a chair, as prescribed by St. Francis himself.

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Over the years and after the death of Brother Elia, Le Celle had different religious occupants and was eventually abandoned. In 1537, however, the Capuchins, the Third Order of Franciscans, took over the facility. They enlarged the Hermitage and in 1634, erected a new chapel shown below, dedicated to St. Anthony of Padua. The simple architecture of the chapel reflects the unpretentiousness of the Capuchins. The altar is made of wood and there are no paintings or decorations.

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Today, Le Celle is home to seven Capuchin Friars and offers lodging to those considering vocational life.

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The amazing structure is as serene as it is beautiful, especially in the early evening as the sun is setting over the valley.

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Because there has been so much rain this spring, this waterfall, usually dry in June, is running at full speed.

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Hoping that I learned enough from my brief iMovie lessons, I leave you with a few sights and sounds of Le Celle.

Ciao,

Judy

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Giostra dell’Archidado 2013

10 Jun

Once again, and as repeated every year, the people of Cortona celebrate and reenact the 1397 wedding of Francesco Casali and Antonia Salimbeni. Over many days, and with great pomp and circumstance, they fill the piazzas with medieval markets, craft fairs, traditional food, medieval games, falconry, and various forms of entertainment including musicians, flag throwers, fire eaters and jesters. The more serious events include the celebration of Santa Margherita, Cortona’s patron saint; the wedding reenactment; and the crossbow competition. For the latter, five areas of Cortona, called quintiere, each have a team that competes. Last year, our neighbor Vincenzo and his team won. And this year, they repeated, so we were delighted.

Here are some of the sights and sounds of the weekend.

Flag throwers exhibition, one of many…

Participants…think Renaissance Fair, but serious!

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Spectators: not so serious!

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Best Hairdo!

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The Victors:

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The Victors’ Parade. (Note: as my neighbor Vincenzo approaches to give me a hug, video is affected!)

Another weekend in Cortona filled with history, passion and great fun!

Ciao, and Complimenti ai vincitori!

Judy

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Cortona Town Guide: Cortonaweb

10 Jun

Each year in Cortona, we are fortunate to befriend more and more locals, one of the reasons we return to Cortona. This year, two of those people are Luca Tiezzi and Simone Rossi, founders and publishers of Cortonaweb.net. Pictured below with Len, they introduced us to Le Celle, one of the most beautiful places in Cortona. (Le Celle to be covered in another post!) While we knew of the monastery’s existence, we thought the grounds were private, so we never entered the monastery of St. Francis of Assisi. But for now, back to Luca and Simone and Cortonaweb.

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Len, being a business professor of Entrepreneurship, loves meeting with young entrepreneurs and discussing the challenges and opportunities they face. Here in Italy, there are many challenges for the young as unemployment  is well above 20%. With Luca and Simone, our conversations dance between English and Italian, and include everything from local and national politics, their business goals and challenges, food, wine, historical sites, travel, and whatever is happening in town. Being natives of Cortona, their depth of knowledge and appreciation of the historical area is evident, not only in their conversation but also in the relevance and thoroughness of their work.

While Len and I have many books and maps on various parts of Italy, Cortonaweb is a Cortona tourist’s friend, offering a detailed website that includes local events, weather, local attractions and historical sites, and some recommendations for shopping,  dining and accommodations. While not all-inclusive, it certainly is a great place to start.  In addition, from the website, you can order a small but concise Town Guide and an interactive map with GPS coordinates and links to video guides and podcasts. The photo-filled small guide, available on Amazon through their website, is light and easy to carry, unlike so many others. If coming to Cortona, a must have!

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Grazie to Luca and Simone for introducing us to one of Cortona’s best treasures, Le Celle, and sharing their knowledge and expertise with us.

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New friends, new finds…we are always open for the unexpected as we experience all that Cortona has to offer!

Ciao,

Judy

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Italian Hill Towns

7 Jun

Just returned from a two-day tour of the Italian countryside in Tuscany and Umbria where the drive was as lovely as the three ancient towns we visited.

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Our first stop was Citta di Castello, meaning town of the castle. Although there actually is no castle, there are stately old buildings and monuments, and of course, in the “larger” cities as least, a duomo or cathedral. The area was an ancient Roman port on the Tiber River and some archaeological remains of the port are visible in the southern part of the historical center.

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Eliza, at Antico Canonico where we spent the night, was most helpful in telling us about the city as well as other nearby towns which we visited the next day. Our “hotel” was originally built years ago as a home for priests. While the door to each unit is the original “cell” door, the apartment behind is simple, ample and clean. Yes, this is our apartment door!

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In the afternoon, we enjoyed  watching the men’s bocce tournament. And in the evening, we strolled the town with the locals.

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The next morning, our first destination was the lovely town of Citerna in Umbria, a tiny hilltop town which boasts of Etruscan and Roman origins and is ranked among the 100 most beautiful villages in Italy. It is the northernmost town in Umbria and while it was severely damaged during WWII, you’d  never know it today.

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The panoramic views as we left town were spectacular!

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From there we headed back to Tuscany to a town called  Anghiari. At first, this appeared to be a “modern” town until we came upon the ancient hilltop walled city. Anghiari is famous for a 1440 battle between the towns of Florence and Milan, and even inspired Leonardo da Vinci to create a fresco in Palazzo Vecchio. Although the original fresco has disappeared,  a sketch of it by Peter Paul Rubens is still in existence.

Peter Paul Rubens' copy of the lost Battle of ...

Peter Paul Rubens’ copy of the lost Battle of Anghiari. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The ancient town is filled with steep, winding streets, and on one of them, we came across a wonderful shop called Carabattole. Sitting inside was Marinella, from whom we learned about tombolo, an art not practiced in the US.

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I bought a lovely pair of earrings similar to the ones shown above. Afterward, we enjoyed a simple but wonderful lunch at a local Cantina.

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When we returned to Cortona and talked to some of the locals about our trip, many had not even heard of tiny Citerna. How lucky for us that  Eliza directed us there, as well as to Anghiari. Continuing to follow the road less travelled without agenda always brings us wonderful surprises and new memories as well as the opportunity to share them with you.

Ciao,

Judy

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A New Fiat in the Family

3 Jun

Check out our new car…a Fiat 500 L, (cinque cento)

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Comfortable room for four

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Lift-gate hidden cargo area

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Well, it is new, and it is ours…if only for four weeks.

We took the car for a ride today, off to get coffee and find the sun. And that we did. After driving some winding roads, we headed toward Montalcino to find Avignonesi, a winery we learned of from our friend Patricia. We’ve tried some of their wines and like them a lot, so off we went.

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From their website:

The winery is named after the Avignonesi family, the founders of the original estate. Constant research and development aimed at expressing the true character of the Montepulciano terroir has, over time, earned the winery a well-deserved place among the flagship producers of Tuscany. http://www.avignonesi.it

As is true throughout Tuscany, it is impossible to photograph or paint the magnificence and simplicity of the rolling hills.

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Avignonesi has a lovely tasting room, and offers tours, lunches and culinary classes. And the customer service is wonderful.

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After purchasing some wine, we headed toward the relatively quiet town of Castiglione del Lago, which sits above Lake Trasimeno.

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In 217 BC, however, the areas was anything but quiet as Hannibal and the Carthaginians defeated the Romans in one of the most successful ambushes in military history. But today, one lone sailboat.

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The lovely town above the lake offers local products, dining, and some great old architecture to locals and visitors alike.

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Another day filled with sunshine, until we returned to Cortona storms, but no matter, we enjoyed the day, the sun and the Fiat, which handled the curves, hills and AC quite well. Perhaps this is my next car, Mike? Could be a great city car!

Ciao,

Judy

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Italy Info Worth Reading

10 May

Whether or not you have travel plans for Italy, reading and learning about the country and planned events can be great fun. Several people have asked what sites I follow, so I thought I’d share a few.

If looking for Cortona specific information, check out www.cortonaweb.net. This site provides information on everything from weather to local events, podcasts, restaurants, accommodations, history of Cortona, maps, wedding planners, tours, wine shops, etc. While not all-inclusive, it certainly covers a broad spectrum of interesting and useful information about Cortona.

The website was started in 1999 by a few locals just for fun, and with sponsorship, has grown over the years. It is well-written and informative. The following picture and caption from the site’s front page describe Cortona’s amazing Etruscan Museum, or MAEC, which is definitely worth visiting:

“A journey back 2700 years Restoring History. Dawn of the Etruscan Princes.”

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Un viaggio a ritroso di 2700 Anni Restaurando La Storia. L’Alba dei Principi etruschi

I’ve been in touch with the authors of cortonaweb.net and look forward to meeting them this summer!

For reading about Italy in general, a site I enjoy is an online magazine called Italy Magazine: http://www.italymagazine.com

Its byline reads: “Since 1999, the n.1 magazine for lovers of all things Italian.” Like me! Included in the magazine are Italian current and cultural events, travel tips, accommodations, properties for sale, festivals and recipes such as the one below on how to make limoncello.  Hey, something fun to try on Mother’s Day, which by the way, is also celebrated on the second Sunday in May in Italy…
Tanti Auguri Mamma!

limoncello

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http://www.italymagazine.com/recipe/how-make-limoncell

So sit back, relax, and take some time to explore these wonderful, ever-changing and totally free sources about Italy.

Happy Reading and Enjoy –  Buon divertimento!

Ciao,

Judy

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Festa della Liberazione

30 Apr

Before we close the month of April, I want to take a moment to highlight a special Italian celebration…the Festa della Liberazione.  Each year on April 25th, the day is dedicated to celebrating Italy’s liberation from Nazi occupation. According to an article in Italy Magazine, “The day marks the liberation of the country by Allied troops in World War II and is celebrated throughout the peninsula with parades, concerts, demonstrations, speeches, and more.”

In the States we have the Blue Angels and Thunderbirds. In Italy, they have Frecce Tricolori, or the Three Color Arrows.

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Rivolto (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

For more on the celebration, and to see the Frecce Tricolori in action, click on the article by Carol King, Le Frecce Tricolori, the flamboyant aerobatic antics of Italy.

And if you happen to be in Italy this summer, or even in November, you might be lucky enough to see Le Frecce in action.

According to Carol, “This year, the Frecce Tricolori take to the skies to perform displays in Italy and abroad, starting on 5 May at the Falconara Air Show in Ancona…The Frecce Tricolori will round off the year on 4 November in Rome to celebrate the Giornata Unità Nazionale e delle Forze Armate (National Unification and Armed Forces Day). The day marks the anniversary of the unification of Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia with Italy, as well as the end of World War I.”

Italiano: Frecce Tricolori all'Air Show di Fal...

Italiano: Frecce Tricolori all’Air Show di Falconara Marittima, Ancona, Italy. (Wikipedia)

A cause for celebration indeed! Buona Festa!

Ciao,

Judy

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Springtime in Cortona

29 Mar

Cortona Spring is more than just a time of year. In the town of Cortona, it is a week of events commemorating spring and Easter week.

Tonight, on Good Friday, there’s a procession through the streets. Men carrying statues of Christ from various churches process through town. The statues, large and heavy, are carried on the shoulders of strong men in hooded cloaks.

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Others carry large crosses in the procession.

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Locals and visitors follow behind as the procession, which begins at the Church of Santo Spirito, passes several other churches and eventually ends in the historic Piazza della Repubblica.

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Patricia, my local friend, describes the procession as “quite dramatic.” On Saturday evening, assuming the weather cooperates, the skies above Cortona will once again be lit by lanterns (minus the Christmas decorations!).

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On Sunday, as in many parts of the world, families will gather at one of the many beautiful churches in Cortona to celebrate Easter. Later in the day, in their homes, they will gather with family and friends to feast on traditional dishes and Easter specialties.

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Whatever your traditions may be, I hope you have time to celebrate them with family and friends.

 

Buona Pasqua a tutti!

Ciao,

Judy

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Buona Festa di San Giuseppe!

16 Mar
Painting by Guido Reni, c.1635

Painting by Guido Reni, c.1635

Growing up in a neighborhood filled with many Irish and Italian families, I was always happy that the Italians also had their day in March to celebrate. Of course, never as loud, rowdy or perhaps quite as “fun” as St. Patrick’s Day, and with much quieter fanfare, we nonetheless celebrated the Feast of St. Joseph on March 19. And while the Irish had their green beer and accessories, the Italians, often sporting something red, had their zeppole, a cream filled fried pastry that originated in Napoli.

Zeppole

©Blogginginitaly.com

According to my fellow blogger, MariaGiovanna, (Sharing My Italy) the “Zeppole di SanGiuseppe” originated in Naples, Italy, “where the first recipe was put on paper, in 1837, by the famous Neapolitan gastronome Ippolito Cavalcanti, Duke of Buonvicino.”

Fortunately, you don’t have to be in Italy to enjoy a zeppole. This morning, I headed to the Ferrara Bakery on Taylor Street in Chicago to check out the famous pastry. Light, airy and filled with cream, it was fun to see the smiles they generated on those wiping the cream from their lips.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

Not surprising, Ferrara’s was busy filling and selling what appeared to be hundreds of dozens of the cream filled gems.

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©Blogginginitaly.com

And since St. Joseph’s Day isn’t until March 19, you still have a few days to stock up!

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So, to those looking to get beyond the grey days of winter, here’s an idea – participate in a St. Joseph’s Day custom by sharing some food with the needy and some friends, and, of course, be sure to share some zeppole!

Ciao,

Judy

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Buona Festa degli Innamorati – Happy Feast of Love

14 Feb

You might be happy to learn that Valentine’s Day was not created by the greeting card companies. It seems, instead, that is was a religious holiday created in 496 by Pope Gelasius I to replace the pagan festival of the Lupercalia, a Roman festival. The new feast, celebrated on February 14,  became il giorno della festa degli innamorati, or the day of the feast of love, and it was dedicated to Saint Valentine of Terni who preached the message of love. Eventually, the date became linked to romantic love, and in Italy, it was the love between a couple that was celebrated.

Early 20th century Valentine's Day card, showi...

Early 20th century Valentine’s Day card, scanned from ca. 1910 with no notice of copyright. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Up to the 19th century, hand written notes were the norm. Today, however, the greeting card industry has commercialized the concept and love expressions are extended to all family members and friends. According to data from the Greeting Card Association, approximately one billion valentine cards are sent world-wide each year, second only to Christmas. The most common symbols associated with the day are hearts, doves, and cupids.

Scan of a Valentine greeting card dated 1909.

Scan of a Valentine greeting card dated 1909. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Years ago, I asked my husband and daughter to forego cards for my birthday, Valentine’s Day, etc., and instead write me a note or letter. They usually oblige me, or at least take time to write their own thoughts in a card, and I truly appreciate the effort. No matter how good the preprinted poem or phrase, there is nothing that compares to words from the heart.

It would be hard to beat Paul Child’s words to Julia:

You are the butter to my bread –  the breath to my life.

But since it’s the thought that counts…

to my husband and daughter, and to family and friends I am lucky enough to love,

You are the wine in my cup –  the smile in my heart!

Author: Bagande

Author: Bagande (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Happy Valentines Day!

Buona Festa degli Innamorati!

Happy Feast of Love!

Ciao,

Judy

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