In Italy, there is a sight commonly found in smaller towns – men sitting on benches, or standing in small groups, discussing everything from local politics to international sports events. Meanwhile, their wives are shopping, visiting, cooking, cleaning, etc. What they all have in common is the phrase: Siamo in pensione, or, we are retired.
We, too, take this retirement thing seriously. Take productive relaxation for example, not an oxymoron but instead an art.
Fernanda had today off, so our day began in her garden where she prepared breakfast – her delicious yogurt cake and cappuccino.
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After enjoying the sunshine and planning for our vegetable garden, we drove to Panicale, one of our favorite little borgos about 45 minutes from Cortona, and a first visit for Fernanda.
In 2018, Panicale, in Umbria, was listed as one of Italy’s most beautiful villages.
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Although it is small and easy to walk around, it is not the easiest of villages to find. But GPS has gotten us there every time.
The medieval hill town overlooks Lago Trasimeno, a site where in 217 BC, Hannibal and his legions ambushed Roman legions along the banks.
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As you can see from the map below, the streets are narrow and form concentric ovals.
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Panicale still retains its medieval castle, which was once surrounded by a moat,
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as well as other well-preserved charming buildings.
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It also has a few unique door bells!
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No matter which way you walk, all streets seem to lead to the historical center’s Piazza Umberto I,
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where there is a travertine fountain, (formerly an ancient cistern), dating back to 1473.
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The piazza is surrounded by a few eateries and shops, including our favorite – Bar del Gallo, (lower right).
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The staff is always friendly,
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and the melanzana (eggplant) is always delicious.
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Of course, there are other menu items, but for us, it’s too good to pass up. And Fernanda agreed it was one of the best she has ever eaten.
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Perhaps best of all at Bar del Gallo is the owner, Aldo Gallo, a man whose warm smile and genuine hospitality keeps one coming back for more.
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Today we learned that Bar del Gallo earned a gold cup award in a coffee competition, an award well-deserved. Complimenti Aldo!
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We said our goodbyes and drove the long way home, stopping at a nursery to select our plants: 10 tomato (three varieties), and nine zucchini.
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Why nine zucchini, you might ask? Well, last year, we had an ever-lasting supply of zucchini flowers, (actually too much of a good thing!) and very few zucchini, so Len did some research. Apparently, zucchini should be planted in “hills” of three plants, close together. This is because when the plants flower, they produce both masculine and feminine flowers, and apparently, they need to do their thing “nature-ly” (cross-pollinate) to produce zucchini! Who knew???
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Well, we’ll see what happens. Updates, and hopefully zucchini, to follow in a few months.
Grazie, Aldo, for another lovely afternoon in Panicale. See you again soon.
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And that’s how we spend a very productive day in a most relaxing way, Italian style.
Ciao,
Judy
Blogging In Italy 