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Ristorante AD Braceria

There is a wonderful new restaurant in Cortona called Ristorante AD Braceria. The ancient setting was rebuilt several times over many years from four small homes with a street down the middle and the building is still owned by the original family. What was the old street now runs through the center of the restaurant.

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Today, there are many intimate settings for dining…(if only these walls could talk!)

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Business partners Anna and Tito opened this wonderful restaurant which specializes in meat and fish, the latter being a great addition to Cortona, more known for Chianina beef. I felt an instant connection with Anna, as she is from Naples and her husband Marco is from Nola, southern towns where my maternal grandparents were born.

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Braceria can be translated as a carvery, or a place where they slice the meet to order, whether it is prosciutto, veal, or a chianina beef steak.

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At AD, the fish is always fresh.

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We have dined here many times with local and visiting friends and have enjoyed a variety of dishes each time.

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Our meals have been delicious and beautifully presented, and we often let Anna decide our menu. Here’s a sampling:

Shrimp carpaccio with burrata:

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Breaded Clams:

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Seafood salad with five grains:

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Salmon marinated with citrus fruits:

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Octopus salad with mashed potatoes:

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Mixed grilled seafood:

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Len having fun:

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Handmade fresh pasta stuffed with sea bass, shrimp and tomatoes:

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Rigatoni with artichokes, bacon and pecorino:

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Grilled chicken (wait time 35 minutes and well worth the wait!)

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Grilled fillet with rosemary:

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Handcut veal with rosemary:

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Fresh green beans with balsamic:

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And my very favorite –

Paccheri with braceria ragu (veal and pork):

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This pasta is a traditional peasant dish from Naples, made from the various cuts of meat, and simmered for 12 hours with tomatoes and wine. Note: THIS IS THE BEST PASTA I HAVE EVER EATEN!

As one might expect, the desserts are incredible.

Hot and dark chocolate cake with gelato:

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Daily fresh fruit sorbet, (on left) …Typical dessert from Napoli on right:

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We are delighted with the addition of this restaurant in Cortona. Incredible food in an incredible setting – Perfetto!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: AD Ristorante, Pesce e Carne in Cortona, Ristorante AD Braceria

Comments 9 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Food, Grilling in Italy, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italian Recipe, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Naples, Tuscany

Bagnoli dei Trigno

8 Jul

Last winter, when I started making plans to visit Pietrabbondante, I noted that the town did not have any hotels, but listed some nearby. I booked the closest one, as it had a few good online reviews, and never really thought about it again.

After our wonderful visit to Pietrabbondante, we headed to Bagnoli dei Trigno where the hotel was located, a town close as the crow flies, but about 30 minutes by car as we had to head down one “hill” and up another. Len said it was the curviest road he had ever been on, one switchback after another.

Finally we came to an intersection: Bagnoli dei Trigno was one direction, and the Domus Hotel another. Since this was our hotel, we headed left, followed the road around a large curve looking for a tiny hotel, and came upon this…

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and even better, this incredible view!

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It turns out our hotel is a medical/sports/health spa, large, lovely, very clean and only three years old. Interestingly, there was only one other hotel guest that night, but it was a Monday.

We were hungry after a long morning in Pietrabbondante and they were more than happy to prepare lunch for us. This is a vegetable flan on one side and suckling pig on the other…I forgot to take a photo before Len and I split it, but you get the idea…fresh and delicious, and prepared only when ordered.

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After lunch, we strolled around the property, sat in the sun, and marveled at the view.

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I also had a massage, and why not since this was a health spa. For dinner, we enjoyed their homemade pasta with local tomatoes and fresh mozzarella from the region.

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I don’t really know much about the town of Bagnoli dei Trigno except that as of the end of 2004, it had a population of about 850 living in fourteen square miles. What I do know is that from the hotel, it is a sight to behold, especially from our vantage point at sunset.

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The next day, we visited the town of Bagnoli. The few people we spoke to were very friendly and a nice man even opened his market/bar/cafe to make us fresh paninis. The newer part of the city is at the base, with the ancient part still somewhat inhabited. We were told that the Lombards built the castle at the top, although it was closed for reconstruction so we weren’t able to get near. What we did find was a very quiet ancient city, actually much lovelier from a distance.

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This is a view looking at our hotel (center) from the top of the ancient town.

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At night, our hotel put on its own light show.

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Per their brochure, Domus offers dancing under the stars as well as concerts on weekends. A perfect setting for sure! They even have a wood burning pizza oven which is large enough for seven pizzas at once.

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Such a pleasant surprise and an incredibly relaxing stay in a tiny hill top town. As we left Bagnoli, we couldn’t help but look once more at the vista we will long remember.

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Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Bagnoli dei Trigno, Domus Hotel, Molise

Comments 8 Comments
Categories Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy

Making Cheese with Lapo

28 Jun

One day pasta, the next day cheese. What could be better than learning from two experts? My latest lesson: pecorino and ricotta.

Lapo began by explaining the process. The milk is fresh from their sheep and needs to be heated carefully.

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There is a special utensil used to stir the milk and cause the cheese bulk to form.

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An expert like Lapo doesn’t need a thermometer to know when it’s ready – instead, it’s all done by touch. In the meantime, while the milk is heating, he explains how they coat cheese before storing it. He demonstrates two methods – one using ash from the previous night’s grilling with added olive oil and the second from a tomato like paste made from his garden.

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The rounds are then stacked on their sides to allow air to circulate between them and are separated with walnut leaves, which impart a slight flavor.

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He shows us some storage barrels, one with hay and one with the dried walnut leaves. The first is from 1798. If you look closely at the second, you can see the rounds of cheese in them.

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Lapo knows the milk has reached the proper temperature when the tool stands upright unsupported.

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Then the twirling action begins… fast and precise…

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until the liquid separates from the cheese.

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We sample the cheese at this point and it is somewhat rubbery, a bit sweet, and without much taste.

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Thus far, Lapo is doing all the work, but now it is our turn to get involved. We are each given a portion of cheese and per instructions, are to hold and pinch the cheese carefully, slowly eliminating water from the cheese. Thanks, Carrol, for the great photos that follow.

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This is actually harder than it sounds, as it requires much patience and pressure from only fingers. When my fingers start to hurt, I use my palms, but alas, the master catches me in the act, so back to finger pinching for me.

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When Lapo is satisfied we have pushed out sufficient water, we empty our bowls for the next step.

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Time to turn the cheese over…

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Now we push, not pinch, with outstretched fingers.

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Lapo is not only watching us, but touching our hands to ensure they are warm from our body heat. Cold hands are not good for making cheese, and he announces that our hands passed…we are all about the same proper temperature.

After several rounds of pressing, my cheese begins to have a nice fragrance, so I give my friend Larry a whiff.

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This is the fruit of our efforts!

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In keeping with the tradition of using everything, Lapo takes the milky water we have pushed from our cheese and begins making ricotta. The liquid is carefully poured through a strainer to remove any clumps which would burn in the reheating.

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And then it is recooked, hence ricotta, until it reaches the proper consistency.

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As a reward for our hard work, Paola has prepared a lovely lunch on the veranda.

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First, samples of young and aged pecorino with toasted bread, small sausage bites with olives, and the class is very happy!

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Then Paola treats us to Cace e Pepe, a simple pasta made with pecorino, parmegiano, and pepper.

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Finally, we are treated with the ricotta made in class, topped with fig jam. Delicious.

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Quite full, and content with our work, I get the class to pose for a photo reminder of the great day!

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Our pecorino won’t be ready for about 10 weeks, but in the meantime, we each have a certificate to remind us of what we learned. Here’s a sample of Lapo’s Lessons:

1. Nothing can replace passion and dedication when it comes to quality, and patience is paramount.

2. Everything from the garden is better.

3. Cheese is like your body; if your body is too cold or hot, the cheese is too cold or hot, so move it.

4. Share what you make with others.

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Finally, before leaving, I had to snap a picture of the setting where I not only learned to make cheese but also experienced the love and passion of carrying on traditions from generation to generation.

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Grazie Lapo e Paola!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Family Traditions, Learning to make cheese, Making pecorino and ricotta, Traditional cheese making in Cortona

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Cortona, Food, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Recipe, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Making Pasta with Paola

27 Jun

Last night, we were at Casale della Torre again for dinner with our friends Larry and Carrol. As usual, it was such a treat and always a learning experience with Lapo and Paola in the kitchen.

We arrived to find Paola making fresh pasta.

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Naturally, I had to try this myself.

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After a few tips, they said I passed. It was just to get me out of their way, I think.

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Next up, Paola’s fried veggies including zucchini flowers, zucchini, and onions, freshly picked from their garden.

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The men moved outside to enjoy the view and the Prosecco, and wait patiently for the appetizers to arrive. They were also in charge of grilling the sausage.

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Meanwhile, Paola opened the treasure chest from the freezer…porcini mushrooms Lapo had found last fall, and had saved for Carrol and Larry’s arrival dinner. Such a treat for all of us.

Lapo’s Porcini Find!

Frozen porcini sections – blogginginitaly.com

After appertivo on the veranda, we moved inside for dinner. Gustavo, a guest of Larry and Carrol’s, and the evening’s assistant chef, had requested Tripe. Yikes! But the men were all happy and said it was delicious. The ladies just looked on with eyebrows raised as the men enjoyed several servings.

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Gustavo was very grateful!

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Next was two kinds of pasta – one with ragu of chianna beef, a Tuscan speciality, and the second with mushrooms. These were followed by a salad from the garden and the grilled sausage. Delicious.

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Finally, dessert – peaches marinated in Lapo’s red vino, vanilla gelato with mint sprig, and my hostess gift apple torta.

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We quickly learned no evening is complete without a taste of Lapo’s homemade liquors.

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At the end of a very relaxing and fun evening, Lapo decided that Gustavo reminded him of Popeye. And why not – here is a man who, along with his brother, rode his bike from Mexico City to Toronto back in the 50s! Lacking a pipe, Lapo gave Gustavo a wooden spoon and actually lit it.

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Before we left, Paola and Lapo invited us to make cheese with them the next day. Fresh pasta Thursday, cheese on Friday. My cup runneth over!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Casale Delle Torre, Making fresh pasta

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Cortona, Food, Grilling in Italy, Italian countryside, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

A Typical Thursday – Camucia Market and Tuscher Caffe

26 Jun

If it’s Thursday in Cortona, it’s market day in Camucia, the town at the bottom of the hill. As usual, we strolled for hours amongst the clothing, housewares, shoes, jewelry and food stalls.

Camucia Market – blogginginitaly.com

Len and I returned to Cortona about 2 PM and had lunch at our very favorite Tuscher Caffe on Via Nazionale. We eat here almost everyday, and usually try to be a little heathy, but today we really splurged. We shared the special, a pasta prepared with light cream sauce of prosciutto, onions, and melon, (yes thinly sliced melon! as only the Italians know how), and it was not only beautiful but incredibly delicious.

Tuscher Caffe – blogginginitaly.com

We also shared our daily tomato salad – very healthy!

Tuscher Caffe –
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Then for dessert, which we usually never have at lunch, Edoardo, the chef and our friend, convinced us to try his special tiramisu with fresh cherries. Well, it ranks among the best desserts I have ever had. No drenched cookies with liquor here. Instead, a light, smooth, lovely dessert with the fresh cherries – simply amazing.

Edoardo's Tiramisu Tuscher Cafe blogginginitaly.com

Edoardo’s Tiramisu
Tuscher Caffe
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Edoardo, Chef at Tuscher Cafe blogginginitaly.com

Edoardo, Chef at Tuscher Caffe
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Tonight we have been invited to a friend’s home, so Edoardo is making me his delicious apple torta to take to my hosts.

Edoardo’s Mela (Apple) Torta –
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As for tomorrow’s agenda? Extended hiking, then more eating, of course.

I know, it’s a tough life. So glad it’s us that “has” to do it!

Ciao,

Judy

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Market, Cortona Trattoria, Food, Food shopping in Cortona, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italy, Market Day, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

“An Enchanting Walk”…

21 Jun

There is a new project underway in Cortona entitled An Enchanting Walk Under the Tuscan Sun. The goal of the program (I think) is to increase awareness of the historic center of Cortona and other towns in Tuscany, and it ties to some of Frances Mayes’ writings and some of the shooting locations of the movie. Tonight she was celebrated as a Cortona ambassador and together, we toured some of the town’s historic sites. I had a chance to speak with her briefly and she was very gracious.

Frances Mayes in Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

An unscheduled stop was in the piazza, where there were several vintage sport cars on display including Fiats, Alphas, and a Mercedes or two.

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Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Earlier today was the typical wedding concluding on the grand steps of the municipal building, where the uninvited join the guests,

Wedding Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

this one followed by a release of white balloons.

Last night, we enjoyed a wonderful multi-course fish dinner at AD, a new restaurant in town, with a chef from Napoli. I took many photos and will write about it as soon as I can get back to ask the chef what we ate! (There were eight of us and we let the chef decide our dinner.)

Always something interesting happening in Cortona.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: An Enchanting Walk Under the Tuscan Sun, Frances Mayes, Vintage Fiats

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Cortona weddings, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany, Under the Tuscan Sun

Return to Cortona

19 Jun

Hardly here 24 hours and have already reconnected with so many local friends, returning friends, and even had time to make new friends.

My long time wonderful friend Sue was visiting her daughter in Firenze, then spent a night with us before heading home. We had appertivo last night at Tuscher Cafe (Benita’s favorite!),

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then lunch there again today including Pici Amatriciana and a caprese salad.

Pici Amatriciana da Tuscher Cafe in Cortona, blogginginitaly.com

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Pici is like a thick spaghetti, made from flour and water only. It originated in the Siena area and is usually only found in Tuscany. The Amatriciana included speck, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes and cheese. Delicioso! And as usual, there’s nothing quite like an Italian tomato.

In between all the eating, we managed some walking on the steep streets of this lovely Etruscan town.

And then just before heading home, we stopped in the piazza, and as usual, always something happening.

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Finally, I had to stop these kids as I had never seen so large a gelato. Glad I got to them before the dripping began!

Ciao for now,

Judy

Tags: Pici Amatriciana, Tuscher Cafe

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italian Recipe, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life

Healthy Eggplant Parmigiano

3 Mar

Do you love eggplant but hate that it is usually served smothered in sauce and cheese? If you prefer it to be more healthy as well as delicious, here’s an easy recipe that I came up with years ago.

Note that my recipe doesn’t have specific measurements, rather suggestions.

Ingredients:

A few eggplants*…I prefer smaller ones
Grape tomatoes for roasting (or your favorite tomato sauce)
One head garlic
Fresh basil
Mozzarella
Crusty Bread

*I used two eggplants, about eight inches long.

Steps To Cook:

Heat oven to 350.
Rinse tomatoes and place in an oven-proof baking dish. Drizzle small amount of olive oil and mix.
Cut off pointed top of garlic head to expose cloves. Drizzle small amount of olive oil on garlic head and turn face down in same baking dish. Roast until tomatoes start to brown, shaking pan occasionally.

Wash and dry the eggplant, then cut into quarter-inch rounds, discarding both ends.
Place rounds on a sprayed or lightly greased baking pan…(I use olive oil), then also lightly spray top side of rounds. (No salting, soaking or standing required!)
Roast eggplant about 20-30 minutes, until top side begins to brown. Turn over and roast about 10 more minutes, being careful not to burn eggplant. Eggplant can join tomatoes in oven…just watch each separately and remove each when cooked.

Steps to Assemble:

When cool to touch, squeeze the garlic from its head and add cloves to tomatoes. With a fork, mash the garlic into the softened tomatoes to form a chunky tomato sauce.
Cover the darkest side of each eggplant round with tomatoes, then top with cheese. Return to oven until cheese begins to bubble.

To Serve:

Sprinkle with fresh basil and serve with your choice of salad. Last night, mine was arugula and shaved fennel with oil/ red wine vinegar dressing. Len also made some delicious focaccia. As a bonus, I had some brussels sprouts and zucchini in the fridge, so I cut them up, added a dash of olive oil, and roasted them also. They served as a wonderful antipasto. Pair with your favorite vino – and voila, a great colorful dinner for a cold, snowy night, but also delicious any time of year. And the leftovers are so good, even cold.

Buon appetito!

Judy

Tags: eggplant, Healthy Eggplant, healthy eggplant parmigiano; colorful cooking; roasted garlic and tomatoes, Homemade Italian Food, Italian cuisine

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Chicago, Italian Food, Italian Recipe, My Blog about Italy

More Rome

18 Feb

My last two days in Rome brought some incredible experiences. I spent Tuesday with Roman locals, the parents of a friend from Austin. Giovanna picked me up Tuesday morning and we did a whirlwind tour around Rome. We began the day at The Church of Santa Sabina on the Aventine Hill in Rome, the oldest surviving Roman basilica.

It is famous for its cypress doors, which may date to the early 5th century when the church was built, and are said to contain the first depiction of the crucifixion of Jesus.

From there we drove to the Villa del Priorato di Malta, home to the Grand Priory in Rome of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, which remains a sovereign entity.

The Villa may be best known for a keyhole in the door

through which you can clearly see Saint Peter’s Basilica, far across the city. The first photo is from my phone; the second shows exactly what you see through the keyhole.

wiki photo

From there, we saw part of the original Roman Wall called the Servian Wall, sections of which are still visible in various locations around Rome. The Servian Wall was a defensive barrier constructed around the city of Rome in the early 4th century BC.

Next on to lunch at my “guide’s” home. What a thrill it is for me to be invited into the home of local Romans and share in their passion for all things Italian. I was introduced to Giovanna’s husband and together we shared wonderful conversation and the most delicious lunch, beginning with Champaign in the drawing-room.

From there, we moved to the dining room and were treated to Spaghetti con vongole

Sicilian artichokes and a rolled meat and cheese dish (sorry I don’t know the name!)

A beautiful vegetable terrine

Fennel salad

and homemade apple torta!

We conversed easily in both Italian and English and spent a great deal of time talking about places and treasures to visit in Italy.

After lunch, more of my tour. First up was a ride along Appia Antica, or as you may know it, the Appian Way.

From there we drove to the Pyramid of Cestius, built around 18BC-12BC as a tomb for magistrate Gaius Cestius. At the time it was built, it lay in the open countryside as tombs were not permitted within the city walls.

The pyramid was incorporated into the Aurelian Walls, close to Porta San Paolo.

Up next, La Bocca della Verità, aka The Mouth of Truth. This ancient Roman marble disc displays a carving of a man-like face and is thought to have been part of a first century fountain or even a manhole cover. Legend has it that if you tell a lie, and put your hand in the mouth, it will be bitten off. So be warned! During the 17th century, it was placed in the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the church which is home to relics of St. Valentine.

And finally, on to ancient temples before heading home.

What an amazing day I had, with my ever hospitable and knowledgeable private tour guide and now new friend.

And to think we did all that in this:

Giovanna, grazie per una giornata meravigliosa e una ricorderò sempre!

That was Tuesday, and I still had one day left in Rome. What better thing to do than attend a Papal audience. So that I did, Wednesday morning, along with about 12,000 others, but who’s counting!

Arrivederci Roma once again. You never fail to amaze. Till next time.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Appia Antica, Aurelian Walls, he Church of Santa Sabina, Italian cuisine, Italy, La Bocca della Verità, Papa Francesca, Pyramid of Cestius, Rome, Saint Peter's Basilica, Santa Maria in Cosmedin, Servian Wall, Villa del Priorato di Malta

Comments 14 Comments
Categories Italian Art, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Rome, Rome Is Always A Good Idea, Rome Monuments, Rome Tourism, Symbol of Christianity, The Pope, Vatican

Happy Valentine’s Day

14 Feb

Or as they commemorate in Italy, happy

Feast of Love!

dedicated to the memory of St. Valentino

Always a good reason to give a hug

and share some dolci!

desserts from Tuscher Cafe

Ciao!

Judy

Tags: St. Valentine, Sweets, Valentine's Day

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Categories Festa degli Innamorati, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy

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Blogging In Italy

Ristorante AD Braceria

Bagnoli dei Trigno

Making Cheese with Lapo

Making Pasta with Paola

A Typical Thursday – Camucia Market and Tuscher Caffe

“An Enchanting Walk”…

Return to Cortona