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Sharing Cortona

6 Sep

My Chicago Italian teacher, Giovanna, a Tuscan native, and her dear friends Clarissa and Sergio, who live about two hours away in Tuscany, have been with us for two beautiful days. We have walked, talked, climbed, dined, and been welcomed by our wonderful local friends who call this incredible town home.

Among other things, we visited two of our favorite eateries, Caffe Tuscher for appertivo and Prosecco –

Tuscher Caffe©Blogginginitaly.com

Tuscher Caffe©Blogginginitaly.com

and AD Braceria for dinner…

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

as well as our favorite gallery, Il Pozzo.

Il pozzo ©Blogginginitaly.com

Il Pozzo ©Blogginginitaly.com

At each, not only were our visitors surprised by the creativity and quality of the food and art, they were also charmed by our friends, the proprietors, who willingly share their knowledge of the history of the ancient buildings that house their establishments.

One of the things I often tell people is that Cortona has a never-ending supply of surprises, and today did not disappoint. After emerging from the Cortonantiquaria, an important antique show that has been coming here for 55 years, we followed a drum beat to the central piazzas. Piazza Signorelli was filled with luxury autos…

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

and in Piazza Repubblica, the flag bearers were performing to the beat of the drums.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

In addition, the weather was perfect – bright blue skies filled with sunshine and gentle breezes. Our friends proclaimed, “If we had ordered a perfect day, it would have been today!”

We ended the day at Le Celle, where St. Francis of Assisi spent part of his monastic life.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

At Le Celle, we noticed these caper bushes growing on the stone walls. Amazing nature.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

While we are having many visitors this fall, and look forward to sharing Cortona with them, it was particularly gratifying to see native Tuscans fall in love with Cortona. It is truly a special place – its ancient beauty, its warm people, and its fascinating history and culture. It is not a town that shuts down at sunset, nor a town that has an overabundance of tour groups. It is, as my friend Paula said, a town that works. Bravo Cortona.

Finally, I am proud to report that Giovanna and her friends were impressed with my Italian. When here, I am in language training 24/7, but I would never have progressed without Giovanna as my cara professoressa.

Grazie Giovanna, for coming to Cortona and for introducing us to your dear friends and now ours as well. Auguri!

AD Bracceria©Blogginginitaly.com

AD Bracceria©Blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,

Judy

For more on Le Celle, including photos and a short video I made a few years ago, please click here: https://blogginginitaly.com/2013/06/12/franciscan-hermitage-of-le-celle-cortona/

 

 

 

Familiarity

3 Sep

We awoke this morning to the sites, sounds and smells of Cortona – and fell into our familiar rituals. Morning cappuccino, an uphill 2.5 mile hike to Torreone, the “take your pick” downhill roads leading back to town, lunch at Caffe Tuscher, an afternoon nap, appertivo with friends, and a light dinner.

I’m reminded of a Peter Allen/ Carole Bayer Sager song, Everything Old is New Again:

Don’t throw the past away
You might need it some rainy day
Dreams can come true again
When everything old is new again

Exactly when we fell in love with Cortona is unclear – perhaps our very first day in June, 2011. We had long planned and dreamt about spending significant time in Italy, and for us, this continues to be the dream come true.

Seeing Cortona in the fall already brings a newness. Fewer people, many fewer children and strollers, and a final let up of the heat wave that surrounds Italy in the summer. The olives are ripening on the trees, the zucchini blossoms are gone, and the sun flowers are getting ready for harvest. But the incredible views

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

and the enticing smells coming from kitchens remain the same. Somethings just never get old.

This evening, as is customary on Thursday nights, a band played in Piazza Signorelli.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

We joined the others and dined al fresco with friends. A perfect ending to a perfect day.

Dreams can come true again
When everything old is new again.

Ciao,

Judy

 

 

Buona Festa di San Giuseppe!

19 Mar

March 19 is the feast of St. Joseph, patron saint of the family, and it is a feast day celebrated by Italians everywhere. Growing up in a neighborhood filled with many Irish and Italian families, I was always happy that the Italians also had their day in March to celebrate.

Joseph the Carpenter, 1642, Louvre, by Georges de La Tour

Joseph the Carpenter, 1642, Louvre, by Georges de La Tour

Of course, not quite as loud or rowdy as St. Patrick’s Day, we nonetheless celebrated the feast of St. Joseph with a food fest. And while the Irish had their green beer and accessories, the Italians, often sporting something red, had their zeppole, a cream filled fried pastry that originated in Napoli.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

According to my fellow blogger, MariaGiovanna, (Sharing My Italy) the “Zeppole di SanGiuseppe” originated in Naples, Italy, “where the first recipe was put on paper, in 1837, by the famous Neapolitan gastronome Ippolito Cavalcanti, Duke of Buonvicino.”

Fortunately, you don’t have to be in Italy to enjoy a zeppole. In Chicago, they can be found in authentic Italian bakeries such as Ferrara Bakery on Taylor Street. Light, airy and filled with cream, it is fun to see the smiles they generate on those wiping the cream from their lips.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

At this time of year, Ferrara’s and Italian bakeries everywhere are busy filling and selling hundreds of dozens of the cream filled gems.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

So, to those looking to get beyond the grey days of winter, here’s an idea – participate in a St. Joseph’s Day custom by sharing some food with the needy and with some friends, and, of course, be sure to bring some zeppole!

Ciao,

Judy

From Grape to Glass

3 Mar

While we continue to meet Chicagoans who visit Cortona, it is less often that the Cortonese visit us. But Saturday was an exception. Meet Denis Zeni.

Denis is the “titolare” – or owner – of Leuta, a boutique winery in the Cortona area. He is visiting several cities in the States and conducting wine tastings in his hosts’ homes.

©Blogginginitaly.com

Denis in center with hosts     ©Blogginginitaly.com

Denis’ story, like so many other entrepreneurs we meet in Italy, is a love story based on deep-rooted traditions. His grandfather cultivated grapes on his land in Trentino, in northern Italy, and shared his passion with his young grandson. Constantly at his grandfather’s side, Denis soon grew to love the land and over time, the possibilities.

Denis’ father, however, hoping for a different life for his son, eventually sold the family land, and encouraged Denis to seek a career in Finance. Denis obliged, but after a successful career and several finance degrees, he awoke one day and decided, “I don’t want to die as a banker!” Not that there is anything wrong with banking, he notes, it just didn’t mesh with the passion that had been ignited in his blood as a child.

With his grandfather’s land no longer available, Denis searched and found land in Tuscany to launch his dream. What began as The Tuscany Project, a small initiative with his friend and then partner Enzo, is now the Leuta Estate, approximately 62 acres at 31o meters above sea level near Cortona.

But back to the wine tasting. As we enjoyed delicious Tuscan antipasti prepared by our amazing hosts,

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Denis shared some of his personal history as well as that of Leuta. He then began pouring the first of five wines we would taste.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Wine tastings are a fun and interesting way to sample various wines and learn something about each. They usually include a 5 step process: see, swirl, sniff, sip, savor. As I listened attentively to Denis, it occurred to me that this tasting was quite different from most others we have attended.  And I quickly realized why.

Denis not only knew about these wines, he was personally connected to all aspects, from grape to glass. He described the vines, how they were planted, how they behaved as they grew, the choice to avoid/limit chemicals, the grape selection, the harvesting process, the aging, the bottling, the mistakes and the successes. It became clear to me that the bottles held not only his wines but also his dreams and life’s work.

Similar to the eye of the beholder, I believe that wine preference is in the senses of the taster. Expensive or not doesn’t necessarily mean great or not. But a really nice wine seems to taste even better when I know its history and understand its traditions.

Grazie, Denis, for sharing your wonderful story and wines with us! We look forward to spending time with you at Leuta.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

In the meantime, as we enjoy our new purchases, we will toast to you and recall the history you shared with us. Your grandfather is surely smiling.

Ciao,

Judy

For more information:
http://www.leuta.it

 

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Italian Tradition – Home Cooking

26 Feb

One of the very best things to enjoy in Italy is the food. But what makes it so special? In a word, local. Italians pride themselves on eating and cooking what is locally available, and in many cases, home grown. That means that menus not only change with the seasons, they are also based on long standing regional traditions passed on from one generation to the next, and, of course, dictated by the terroir or environment.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

When I first began traveling to Italy, I always wished that I would be invited into the home of a local. I wanted to experience the lady of the house cooking for her family, to learn from her and then eat what was prepared. It’s hard to walk the narrow streets of small towns and villages and not get caught up in the delicious smells and banter bellowing from the windows at lunch and dinner.

Luckily for us, we now have native Italian friends who invite us into their homes and give us this opportunity.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

But as we travel to other parts of Italy, is there a way to have similar experiences?

Meet Le Cesarine, a group of  “landlords chosen through a careful selection by Home Food in order to preserve and promote the heritage of wisdom, tradition and culture hidden in the thousands of recipes of our regional cuisine.” According to their website,

Home Food has built a network of “Cesarine” all over the peninsula in order to offer the possibility to find in many places in Italy a cosy table, rich of food prepared and maintained for the members only. For the reason that the “Cesarine” do not manage a restaurant in their houses, but invite you to their tables as a guest of the family who shares the passion for the tradition, the land and its tastes, values, which constitute the mission of Home Food.

Home Foods, founded in 2004, is a collaborative effort among several groups in Italy whose goal is to “spread the culture of traditional food interwoven with the culture of the typical products and the particular area.”

If you think about it, Italy has thousands of informally trained household cooks who, without recipes, create incredible meals from starter through dessert. Home Food has tapped into this resource and created a network of cesarine – grandmothers, mothers, aunts and daughters, who are knowledgeable of their local area, passionate about cooking, and willing to share their traditions as they host events in their homes.

Through Home Food, registered members have the opportunity to learn traditional culinary methods, eat traditional meals, and truly experience regional Italian culture in the home of a cesarine.

I learned of this organization through an article by Irene Levine in the Chicago Tribune, dated February 1, 2015. She and her husband had the opportunity to experience a cooking lesson in the home of a cesarine from Bologna. Although I have not yet participated, Irene’s story presented a way for travelers to experience the flavors and culinary traditions throughout Italy as guests in a local home. If your Italy TO DO list includes a mini cooking class, or eating in the home of a local, this might well be your opportunity.

Their calendar includes event dates, locations, recipes, a bit of history, and pricing. And if you partake, I’d love to hear your feedback.

Buon Appetito!

www.homefood.it/en

Ciao,

Judy

 

An Italian Lesson for Valentine’s Day

14 Feb

Roses are red
Le rose sono rosse

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Tomatoes are too
I pomodori sono anche

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

I’ll have mine with caprese and pasta
Avrò la mia con caprese e pasta

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

And a bit of vino too!
E un po ‘di vino anche!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

In whichever language sings to you,

Happy Valentine’s Day!
Buon San Valentino!

Ciao,

Judy

 

Homemade Ravioli with Friends

6 Feb

Knowing that we love to make homemade pizza and bread, (well, Len makes it and I eat it), my niece surprised us with this beautiful ravioli rolling pin. Truth be told, neither Len nor I had ever made homemade pasta, nor had we ever thought to do so.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

So there it sat, since Christmas, staring back at us and egging us on…”come try me” it seemed to call out each time we passed by. So we gathered the usual suspects for a day of cooking/baking and added ravioli to the menu. After all, how hard could it be?

Giovanni, Len’s cooking buddy, made incredible dough for baguettes while Len whipped up some delicious Sicilian pizza for us to eat while contemplating the ravioli roller. With vino in hand, we watched the YouTube from Repast, the maker of the rolling pin.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Confident in our skills, Susanna took to the stove to create a porcini tomato sauce as I made the ricotta pecorino filling.

Since this was my very first pasta making experience, I decided to forego the mixer and do it all by hand. And Giovanni promised to help with the kneading and rolling, so why not.

Did it work? Click on the video produced by Giovanni to find out. And special thanks and musical credit to Andrea Bocelli for serenading us with Romanza and Rapsodia.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GXzu7-7l4E

Ciao,

Judy

 

2014 Top Twelve Italian Foods

20 Dec

Can you guess what they are? If you love real Italian food, made in Italy (natural and authentic), it’s pretty easy to guess what made the list. Take a minute before you read on to see how many you can name. I did this with my Italian class and they guessed all twelve, though not in this order.

Ready to find out?

The  following article, written by Francine Segan,  is reproduced from I Love Italian Food

http://www.italialiving.com/articles/food-wine/top-twelve-italian-foods-in-2014-the-votes-are-in/

Parmigiano Reggiano still reigns the “King of Cheese”

I Love Itaian Food Contest

More than 700,000 foodies and 5,00 food professionals—including bloggers, chefs, restaurateurs and cooking schools —voted for the twelve most popular Italian foods. Parmigiano Reggiano won 1st with the “King of Cheese” receiving 20% of the votes. This international contest sponsored by the nonprofit group I Love Italian Food www.iloveitalianfood.org was conducted online in November 2014, with results released in mid-December.

“This contest made us understand which of our traditional foods are the real ambassadors outside of Italy, “ comments Alessandro Schiatti, founder of I Love Italian Food.  Three of the winning foods—Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma and Aceto Balsamico, are all from the Emilia-Romagna region, which isn’t surprising as that region has more products that are DOP and IGP ( protected designation of origin) than any other region.

Using these twelve winners, I Love Italian Food will launch a project in January 2015 called 100per100, which will ask twelve of Italy’s top chefs including Heinz Beck, Cristina Bowerman, Moreno Cedroni and Antonella Ricci to create a unique recipe for each.

And the 2014 winners are:

#1 Parmigiano Reggiano
#1 Parmigiano Reggiano

#2 Pasta
#2 Pasta

#3 Prosciutto di Parma
#3 Prosciutto di Parma

#4 Pizza
#4 Pizza

#5 Extra Virgin Olive Oil
#5 Extra Virgin Olive Oil

#6 Tiramisu
#6 Tiramisu

#7 Gelato
#7 Gelato

#8 Espresso
#8 Espresso

#9 Mozzarella
#9 Mozzarella

#10 Aceto Balsamico
#10 Aceto Balsamico

#11 Ravioli
#11 Ravioli

#12 Risotto
#12 Risotto

My list would have included Italian red wine in lieu of the Tiramisu, but to each her own.

We are fortunate that many Italian products are available in restaurants and speciality stores around the world, so they can be enjoyed outside of Italy. But truly, food doesn’t get much better than when you enjoy it locally in towns and cities across Italy. The reason is simple – it is often locally grown, produced, prepared and served without chemicals and preservatives.

Mushrooms are “born” and thrive when the conditions are right; the roots of the grapes have been cared for by generations of families; the cows are pampered and some even listen to Mozart; the olives are often harvested by hand and with pride; and so on. Often food is served “zero kilometers” or very few kilometers from where it is grown.

Just look at the fresh mozzarella di bufala my daughter enjoyed in Campania:

Romeisalwaysagoodidea.wordpress.com

Romeisalwaysagoodidea.wordpress.com

So, if you are lucky enough to travel to Italy, lessen the sightseeing a bit and take extra time to savor the richness yet simplicity of the local food. If not, look for these products and experiment yourself or find local authentic restaurants with Italians in the kitchen.

Happy eating!

Ciao,

Judy

Thanksgiving Blessings

29 Nov

So much this week to be thankful for,

but most especially,

 the love of our families and friends.

Thanksgiving 2014

Thanksgiving 2014

Ciao,

Judy

Pizza…Really?

24 Nov

As a follow-up to The Dough Boys, if you haven’t yet seen the new Pizza Hut ad, it helps explain why Len always wants to make his own pizza instead of ordering someone else’s version.

See for yourself what the Italians in Sorrento think about American pizza. We concur.

 

Ciao,

Judy