Blogging In Italy

Giostra dell’Archidado 2013

Once again, and as repeated every year, the people of Cortona celebrate and reenact the 1397 wedding of Francesco Casali and Antonia Salimbeni. Over many days, and with great pomp and circumstance, they fill the piazzas with medieval markets, craft fairs, traditional food, medieval games, falconry, and various forms of entertainment including musicians, flag throwers, fire eaters and jesters. The more serious events include the celebration of Santa Margherita, Cortona’s patron saint; the wedding reenactment; and the crossbow competition. For the latter, five areas of Cortona, called quintiere, each have a team that competes. Last year, our neighbor Vincenzo and his team won. And this year, they repeated, so we were delighted.

Here are some of the sights and sounds of the weekend.

Flag throwers exhibition, one of many…

Participants…think Renaissance Fair, but serious!

Spectators: not so serious!

Best Hairdo!

The Victors:

The Victors’ Parade. (Note: as my neighbor Vincenzo approaches to give me a hug, video is affected!)

Another weekend in Cortona filled with history, passion and great fun!

Ciao, and Complimenti ai vincitori!

Judy

Tags: Cortona, Giostra dell'Archidado

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Categories Cortona, Italian Festival, Italian History, Medieval, My Blog about Italy, Pageantry, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany

Cortona Town Guide: Cortonaweb

10 Jun

Each year in Cortona, we are fortunate to befriend more and more locals, one of the reasons we return to Cortona. This year, two of those people are Luca Tiezzi and Simone Rossi, founders and publishers of Cortonaweb.net. Pictured below with Len, they introduced us to Le Celle, one of the most beautiful places in Cortona. (Le Celle to be covered in another post!) While we knew of the monastery’s existence, we thought the grounds were private, so we never entered the monastery of St. Francis of Assisi. But for now, back to Luca and Simone and Cortonaweb.

Len, being a business professor of Entrepreneurship, loves meeting with young entrepreneurs and discussing the challenges and opportunities they face. Here in Italy, there are many challenges for the young as unemployment is well above 20%. With Luca and Simone, our conversations dance between English and Italian, and include everything from local and national politics, their business goals and challenges, food, wine, historical sites, travel, and whatever is happening in town. Being natives of Cortona, their depth of knowledge and appreciation of the historical area is evident, not only in their conversation but also in the relevance and thoroughness of their work.

While Len and I have many books and maps on various parts of Italy, Cortonaweb is a Cortona tourist’s friend, offering a detailed website that includes local events, weather, local attractions and historical sites, and some recommendations for shopping, dining and accommodations. While not all-inclusive, it certainly is a great place to start. In addition, from the website, you can order a small but concise Town Guide and an interactive map with GPS coordinates and links to video guides and podcasts. The photo-filled small guide, available on Amazon through their website, is light and easy to carry, unlike so many others. If coming to Cortona, a must have!

Grazie to Luca and Simone for introducing us to one of Cortona’s best treasures, Le Celle, and sharing their knowledge and expertise with us.

New friends, new finds…we are always open for the unexpected as we experience all that Cortona has to offer!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cortona, Italy

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Italian countryside, Italian Food, Italian History, Italy, Medieval, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany

Cortona Market Set up

8 Jun

If you wake early enough, you can watch the empty Piazza Signorelli come to life on Saturday morning and become the open market. We have wondered how all the trucks arrive and set up, as the streets leading to the Piazza are narrow and steep. This morning we found out.

A truck that becomes a canopied stall looks like this when closed:

Between 7-8 am, dozens of trucks maneuver through the narrow streets to reach their assigned spaces. This truck actually made it through without hitting anything!

In an ancient town like Cortona, one might expect market stalls to be rather simplistic. However, that is anything but true. These modern marvels are fascinating. If you have ever seen a factory with automation in full bloom, you’d still be impressed with the robotic mechanisms on these trucks which transform them into stand-alone self-sufficient markets.

As you can see in the video, articulated robotic arms open and move canopies and sides into all directions to become open-air covered stores. Then the contents are moved outside, whether clothes, shoes, household goods or food.

Gabriella and Luigi, our Saturday roasted chicken vendors, told us about their truck. We learned that there is a factory between here and Firenze that customizes each truck to fit the needs of the vendor. Some just need canopies, while others, like them, require refrigeration and spit-fired roasters. Whatever the need, the factory can oblige. Some of the canopies are even opened by hand-held remote controls. Incredible!

Like so many other proprietors in town, the “roaming marketeers” are self-sufficient, hard-working people who cater to the needs of their customers. Some set up at multiple markets throughout the week, different towns, different days. Cortona is one of the smaller markets, so it is easy to get to know the vendors. They are helpful and always have a kind word and a smile. A most enjoyable morning and well worth an early start to this warm and sunny day!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cortona, Market Day, Piazza Signorelli

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Market, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Market Day, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Shopping, Tuscany

Italian Hill Towns

7 Jun

Just returned from a two-day tour of the Italian countryside in Tuscany and Umbria where the drive was as lovely as the three ancient towns we visited.

Our first stop was Citta di Castello, meaning town of the castle. Although there actually is no castle, there are stately old buildings and monuments, and of course, in the “larger” cities as least, a duomo or cathedral. The area was an ancient Roman port on the Tiber River and some archaeological remains of the port are visible in the southern part of the historical center.

Eliza, at Antico Canonico where we spent the night, was most helpful in telling us about the city as well as other nearby towns which we visited the next day. Our “hotel” was originally built years ago as a home for priests. While the door to each unit is the original “cell” door, the apartment behind is simple, ample and clean. Yes, this is our apartment door!

In the afternoon, we enjoyed watching the men’s bocce tournament. And in the evening, we strolled the town with the locals.

The next morning, our first destination was the lovely town of Citerna in Umbria, a tiny hilltop town which boasts of Etruscan and Roman origins and is ranked among the 100 most beautiful villages in Italy. It is the northernmost town in Umbria and while it was severely damaged during WWII, you’d never know it today.

The panoramic views as we left town were spectacular!

From there we headed back to Tuscany to a town called Anghiari. At first, this appeared to be a “modern” town until we came upon the ancient hilltop walled city. Anghiari is famous for a 1440 battle between the towns of Florence and Milan, and even inspired Leonardo da Vinci to create a fresco in Palazzo Vecchio. Although the original fresco has disappeared, a sketch of it by Peter Paul Rubens is still in existence.

Peter Paul Rubens’ copy of the lost Battle of Anghiari. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The ancient town is filled with steep, winding streets, and on one of them, we came across a wonderful shop called Carabattole. Sitting inside was Marinella, from whom we learned about tombolo, an art not practiced in the US.

I bought a lovely pair of earrings similar to the ones shown above. Afterward, we enjoyed a simple but wonderful lunch at a local Cantina.

When we returned to Cortona and talked to some of the locals about our trip, many had not even heard of tiny Citerna. How lucky for us that Eliza directed us there, as well as to Anghiari. Continuing to follow the road less travelled without agenda always brings us wonderful surprises and new memories as well as the opportunity to share them with you.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Anghiari, Citerna, Citta di Costello, Italy, Peter Paul Rubens, Tuscany, Umbria

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Da Vinci, Etruscan Ruins, Italian Art, Italian countryside, Italian History, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany, Umbria

A New Fiat in the Family

3 Jun

Check out our new car…a Fiat 500 L, (cinque cento)

Nice interior

Comfortable room for four

Lift-gate hidden cargo area

Well, it is new, and it is ours…if only for four weeks.

We took the car for a ride today, off to get coffee and find the sun. And that we did. After driving some winding roads, we headed toward Montalcino to find Avignonesi, a winery we learned of from our friend Patricia. We’ve tried some of their wines and like them a lot, so off we went.

From their website:

The winery is named after the Avignonesi family, the founders of the original estate. Constant research and development aimed at expressing the true character of the Montepulciano terroir has, over time, earned the winery a well-deserved place among the flagship producers of Tuscany. http://www.avignonesi.it

As is true throughout Tuscany, it is impossible to photograph or paint the magnificence and simplicity of the rolling hills.

Avignonesi has a lovely tasting room, and offers tours, lunches and culinary classes. And the customer service is wonderful.

After purchasing some wine, we headed toward the relatively quiet town of Castiglione del Lago, which sits above Lake Trasimeno.

In 217 BC, however, the areas was anything but quiet as Hannibal and the Carthaginians defeated the Romans in one of the most successful ambushes in military history. But today, one lone sailboat.

The lovely town above the lake offers local products, dining, and some great old architecture to locals and visitors alike.

Another day filled with sunshine, until we returned to Cortona storms, but no matter, we enjoyed the day, the sun and the Fiat, which handled the curves, hills and AC quite well. Perhaps this is my next car, Mike? Could be a great city car!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Avignonesi, Battle of Lake Trasimene, Castiglione del Lago, Fiat, Montepulciano, Renting a car in Italy, Tuscany

Comments 13 Comments
Categories Italian History, Italian WIne, Italian Wine Tasting, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Cortona: Back to Normal

2 Jun

Today, Sunday in Cortona, life back to normal, warm and sunny!

We hiked the hills

The men returned to their benches

The Saturday market was replaced by the Medieval Market:

Breads

Spices

Beans

Grilled local sausages

Ciaccia (fried dough)…note the cell phone!

Cheeses and local products

And the workers!

People have returned to the piazzas

Life is good!

Tomorrow, weather permitting, we take to the road, not sure which direction, and perhaps no internet. Stay tuned!

Just now, as I am finishing this, black clouds have filled the skies and the winds are swirling. Nonetheless, a wonderful day! Good we have those leftovers…

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cortona, Italian cuisine, Italy

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Market, Food shopping in Cortona, Grilling in Italy, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca

Buon Appetito…and Immersion!

1 Jun

A few years ago, knowing that my dream of travelling to Italy annually was about to begin, I began a two-year search for Italian classes. I wasn’t looking for academic credits, or a class filled with grade conscious students; rather, I wanted to join a group of like-minded adults who yearned to improve their knowledge of everything Italian – the language, food, culture, holidays, nuances, etc. This also meant I needed to find a native Italian teacher, not someone who merely majored in the subject. Luckily, my search finally led me to Giovanna Dimetros. I must admit, her Greek last name puzzled me at first, until I learned it was her married name and she’s actually a native of Tuscany. Pictured below are Giovanna (left) and two classmates who hosted a dinner for our class last December at Giovanni’s (right) house. As you can see, we are big on immersion!

Simply put, Giovanna’s classes provide me with more than I had hoped for. Each session is interactive, dynamic, challenging, and filled with great camaraderie. Of most importance is Giovanna’s desire to have us learn and understand what she teaches, not just memorize.

My goal was to reach a point where I no longer felt like a tourist in Italy, and while my learning will be a lifelong pursuit, I’m now comfortable conversing with locals who speak no English at all – a great tribute to Giovanna!

In our book, Unit 5 is called Buon Appetito, and we learned how to prepare a shopping list, go to market, and make lunch or dinner. Today in Cortona, we did just that. Our list included roasted chicken and turkey, cheeses, tomatoes, basil, bread sticks and vino.

While we order the roasted chicken weekly, our favorite “chicken lady” had a special this week: roasted and boned turkey leg with herbs. No antibiotics or preservatives…just incredible flavors and a heavy dose of fresh sage leaves and dill rolled inside. How does one have the patience to bone a turkey leg????

We carried everything home and set out our feast. The only thing missing was all of you, and we could have fed all of you! Good for us we like left overs.

Mozzarella fresca e pomodorini

Grana Padano Parmigiano

Boned roasted turkey leg (left) and roasted chicken (right)

Una vera festa…A true feast!

Even the constant rain decided to pester others today

and granted Cortona a rain-free and sometimes even sun-filled day…

Listening to Andrea Bocelli as I write…Perfetto!

And to my Italian class:

Vorrei che tu fossi qui per andare a fare la spesa con me e gustare un delizioso pranzo. E sto anche usando il passato e il futuro bene!

Ci vediamo a settembre! Ciao, ciao,

Giuditta

Tags: Cortona, Italian language, Italy, Learning, Tuscany

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Market, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Market Day, My Blog about Italy, Shopping, Tuscany

A Day at the Market

31 May

If it’s Thursday, it’s market day in Camucia, the town at the base of Cortona. Vendors of every type gather to sell their wears. Vegetables, poultry, meats, salamis, men’s, ladies’ and children’s clothes, leather goods, shoes, boots, flowers, candy, pastry, spices, household goods, luggage, scarves, lingerie, socks, and just about anything you might need.

We woke to a morning sun, an amazing sight these days, and took the morning bus down the hill to Camucia, a ten minute “switchbacking” scenic drive. We began the day at Vanelli Caffetteria for cappuccino and dolce. They pride themselves on the most artistic coffees and it’s fun watching their artists at work:

Then to the market we went. Most of the men gather at the front, their version of a man cave…

while most women roam the market, a great idea as each group is happy.

Len and I usually begin together, then when Len has seen enough, he heads to the male section.

I think the food is always the most interesting, and the locals happily shop for everything fresh. Feast your eyes:

Porchetta, about four feet long

Prosciutto

Formaggio and Salumi

Fresh Porcini, bigger than my fist

Anchovies (Yikes!)

Just picked garlic

And despite all the local cuisine, for those needing an American food fix…

We had fun shopping and bought a few things including several pair of socks since it has been so cold and wet! Waiting for the bus to take us home, the skies opened and it began to hail. Locals say this is the worst weather in 100 years and I believe it. And it’s not supposed to break for another 10 days. Glad we are not having many guests this year.

So, if you are wondering why I am mostly writing about food, it’s because restaurants are one of the few places to keep dry. The good news is that we are getting to know the locals better, and that’s a big reason we are here. The healthy news for us is that to get anywhere, we need to climb one of the steepest streets in Cortona, coupled with the 35 steps in our house. So, although we haven’t been able to take our usual hikes, we are still getting plenty of exercise. Here’s hoping for the return of sunshine!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Camucia, Cortona, Italy, Shopping

Comments 8 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian Food, Market Day, Shopping, Shopping for antipasti

Antica Trattoria

29 May

One of the things you’ll rarely find in Cortona’s eateries is absentee ownership. Each proprietor is the essence of entrepreneurship…the first to arrive, the last to leave, sometimes the chef, visible to all, always on the go, and very devoted to pleasing patrons. Meet owner Luca Cuculi at Antica Trattoria, one such proprietor.

For all who were with us last summer, you’ll no doubt remember the wonderful dinners we enjoyed at this restaurant, whether dining inside or al fresco. And last night was no different.

For primo, we shared an order of panzerotti, a hand-made, half-moon shaped stuffed pasta…Incredible!

For secondo, we usually share an entrée, but since Len loves lamb chops and I don’t eat them, we ordered two entrées:

the grilled hen and roasted potatoes for me:

and the grilled lamb ribs with sautéed spinach for Len, which he proclaimed to be the best he has ever had!

To complement our dinner, we ordered Sangiovese. Fresh, simple, delicious! Grazie, Luca!

We’ll be back for sure!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cortona, Italian cuisine, Restaurant

Comments 1 Comment
Categories Cortona, Cortona Trattoria, Italian Food, Italy, My Blog about Italy

Cortona Update and Random Event

28 May

Day 6:

Thanks for all your blog comments. It has been difficult to write and respond as we have not had internet in the house till today. Hopefully, it will continue to work!

Summer has yet to find its way to Cortona. Locals are sporting down jackets and boots, while the tourists walk around in their flip-flops, shorts and sweats, shivering while huddled under umbrellas. Yet always with a smile. Although we have more summer than fall clothes with us, we are nonetheless keeping warm. Eating and sampling various vini also helps!

About 10:30 last night, on our walk home through Piazza Republicca, we heard a familiar sound. Einstein, as I call him, had just begun to grace the almost empty piazza with the sounds of his flute. We stopped to listen and visit, as did others passing by. One of the things we love about Cortona is that there is always something happening, whether planned or random.

As I am finally learning to add some video to my blog, here’s a short piece from last night.

Today, we stopped at Tacconi Trattoria on Via Dardano to see friends Graziella and Angelo and to enjoy pappardelle con ragu. Amazing how delicious pasta warms cold feet…that and the pair of long socks I bought next door!

Wow, there is a strange bright light coming through the window…can it be the sun?

Better run!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cortona, Papardelle con ragu; pasta

Comments 3 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Trattoria, Italian Food, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

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Blogging In Italy

Giostra dell’Archidado 2013

Cortona Town Guide: Cortonaweb

Cortona Market Set up

Italian Hill Towns

A New Fiat in the Family

Cortona: Back to Normal

Buon Appetito…and Immersion!

A Day at the Market

Antica Trattoria

Cortona Update and Random Event

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