Tuscher Caffé

26 Sep

On our last day in Cortona this summer, a group of ladies stopped me and asked where they might enjoy a great breakfast. “Follow me,” I said, then walked them to our favorite eating destination in all of Cortona – Tuscher Caffé.

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As I’ve written many times, one of the things we enjoy most about Cortona is its Italian authenticity. Most of the restaurants, shops, and stores are owned and operated by local Italians, and these places are where we prefer to spend our time.

This two-story Caffé opened in 2003 in the beautiful Palazzo Ferretti on Via Nazionale. Massimo and Daniela, the owners and operators of the caffé, named it after the building’s architect, Carl Marcus Tuscher, who worked in Italy from 1728-41.

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They, along with their sons Niccolo and Edoardo, tend to every detail, and it clearly shows.

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Looking for breakfast? Whether a simple coffee and pastry, or an omelet, look no further.

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Thinking about lunch? Your biggest decision is not whether to sit inside or out, rather, how to choose which delicious dish to order. Always the freshest ingredients coupled with creativity, and always made to order…

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And let’s not forget about dessert:

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In Italy, people often gather in the evening for appertivo. This wonderful tradition consists of meeting friends or family members for a pre-dinner drink such as prosecco or vermouth. Historically, these drinks were accompanied by nuts and olives so as not to ruin an appetite, and instead, open up the stomach for the meal to come.

Today, appertivo has taken on a different meaning where along with a wide variety of specialty cocktails, delicious and creative appetizers are served – all free of charge.

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Winter or summer, appertivo is an evening ritual in Cortona.

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Unless it is Monday, and Tuscher is closed, hardly a day passes that we don’t enjoy one or more meals here. After our several mile hike each morning, Len always declares, “It’s time for a proper lunch,” and for us, that’s typically a Tuscher lunch. We love the food and the atmosphere, and most of all, we love the friends and friendships we have made here.

As for those lovely ladies I introduced to Tuscher in the morning…well, they obviously liked the recommendation as they were back having lunch when we arrived to do the same.

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To Dani, Massimo, Niccolo and Edoardo, thanks for all of your hard work and dedication and for making Tuscher Caffé such a special part of our Cortona life. And to my dear friend, Dani, Buon Compleanno!

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You truly are a sweetie pie!

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If you are a regular, see you there. If you’ve never been, try it. You’ll thank me later!

Ciao,

Judy

www.caffetuschercortona.com

La Bella Sophia

19 Sep

Buon Compleanno – Happy 80th Birthday, Sophia Loren!

From ITALY Magazine

ITALY Magazine

As Sophia turns 80 today, enjoy a few of her sayings that epitomize her life:

“A woman’s dress should be like a barbed-wire fence: serving its purpose without obstructing the view.”

“I always think positively. It is very rare that you find me in a mood that is sad or melancholic.”

“Having pride in your experience will keep you satisfied with your age, whatever it is. If you can look at yourself and know that you have faced difficulties and overcome them, taken risks and dealt with the consequences, gambled with your time and your love and at least sometimes won, then you will feel glad to be the age you are…”

Good for you, Sophia. A salute!

 

From ITALY magazine

From ITALY magazine

Ciao,

Judy

For more on Sophia, www.italymagazine.com/featured-story/buon-compleanno-sophia

 

Piazza Life

15 Sep

Recently, I read an article in a Chicago paper about a local community that created a new and different type of outdoor space. It’s a place where restaurants, shops, pedestrians and vehicles commingle. While this may be new to an Illinois community, it is a way of life in much of Europe, something that I have long referred to as Piazza Life.

What is it about Italian Piazza Life that is so appealing? Just about everything.

Each piazza has its own borders, if you will, created by beautiful ancient buildings that have been repurposed. An old prison is now a museum, a villa now a bank, and a stable now an enoteca.

The center of the piazza may have a fountain or statue, or be empty and provide a stage for any number of diverse events. Nowhere is this better seen than in Cortona, where Piazza Life is a way of life.

While there are several piazzas in Cortona, the two main ones are Piazza Republicca and Piazza Signorelli. They are physically adjacent to one another, yet each has its own identity and events.

You know you are in Piazza Republicca when you are facing the grand staircase of the Municipio or Municipal building.

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While it is used for several city functions, it also provides a beautiful setting for many weddings where everyone in the piazza seems to join in the celebration.

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In this piazza, you can sit in or outside of a number of cafes; shop at a grocery store, fruit market, wine store, or florist; and buy  shoes, handbags, linens, and even a borselino, all actually made in Italy.

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People gather, some doing their morning shopping, others stopping for a chat with friends.

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Cars and cyclists navigate through pedestrians of all ages, and pop up performers are a common site.

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Celebrations commemorating historical events are held here.

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And while the piazzas are significantly quieter in the winter, they still draw people together for such delights as the incredible Christmastime lamp lighting celebration.

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Piazza Signorelli, the adjacent Piazza, is also breathtaking in its beauty, whether bathed in sunshine

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or glowing in the moonlight.

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Piazza Life provides a daily local gathering venue, be it day or night, for spontaneous and scheduled events, including

kids playing soccer;

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local musicians;

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vintage car enthusiasts;

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food and antique vendors;

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annual traditions;

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marching bands;

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and avid sports fans.

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Whether you find yourself almost alone in an ancient Piazza, (and yes it is possible!)…

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or surrounded by friends you have not yet made,

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just be prepared to be amazed by the sights and sounds.

Piazza Life – wonderful! …and no reservation required.

Ciao,

Judy

 

Sunday Dinner

3 Sep

Missing everything about Italy, especially friends and food, I decided to try to replicate one of my favorites dishes. In Italy, pasta con ragu is pasta with meat sauce. The dish varies based on the region and the person in the kitchen, but it is usually a combination of meats stewed in tomatoes for hours.

At AD in Cortona, they call this paccheri with braceria sauce. Annalisa the chef says it is what her grandmother served every Sunday in Napoli when she was growing up, as it was an inexpensive means to serve many people. This is my attempt at her recipe.

I assembled my ingredients:

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Browned the meat:

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Sautéed the onions, then added tomato paste, herbs, and some figs for a slight sweetness:

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United the meat and the onions:

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Added the tomatoes, then turned the burner to low and started the slow, slow cooking:

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Like Annalisa’s grandmother, I decided to share my Sunday dinner, so I made a few calls, then whipped up some appertivo:

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And after about eight hours, we were rewarded with this!

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Great food (if I say so myself!), great conversation, great gathering! Felt just like Sunday dinner in Italy…

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Oh, and yes, we did have dessert… sautéed peaches with a dab of gelato and a ginger biscuit.

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Ciao,

Judy

 

Farewell Robin

22 Aug

You made us laugh.

You made us cry.

You make us think.

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A minute of wonderful memories: http://youtu.be/6csfDT5ovps

Ciao,

Judy

Majestic Mountains

7 Aug

The flight from Rome to Chicago is about 10.5 hours, hopefully uneventful and always pretty boring. But occasionally, one can catch a glimpse of nature and its magnificent show.  I believe these are over Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada, from about 33,000+ feet above. They were shot with my iPhone and are shown in the order taken. Note the changes in snow cover.

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If you look closely (or click on the photo below to enlarge), you can see towns in the valley.

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And then they were gone…

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Last stop, Chicago. A bit cloudy, but a welcome sight for sure!

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Ciao,

Judy

Saturday’s Market

2 Aug

Missing Italy, and missing the usual Saturday mercato, we headed to our local city market early this morning.

Although we were tempted en route…

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we resisted, reminding ourselves of the morning pastry ritual we had decided to leave behind.

So on we went in search of what we would grill tonight, and we were not disappointed…

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Even the sun flowers were there to greet us…

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When we got home, our purchases looked like a beautiful watercolor…

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For lunch, I made a barley and farro salad with some of the veggies.

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Now if only I can stay awake long enough to cook dinner!

Ciao,

Judy

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Arrivederci Cortona – 2014

30 Jul

Some wonderful sights, sounds, smells, settings, 
and most of all,  salutes and smiles (and a bit of splash!)
that we will take home, in photos and in our hearts…

Sights:

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Bagnoli dei Trigno – blogginginitaly.com

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Gubbio – blogginginitaly.com

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Sounds:

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Terrenean Sea, Quercinella – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Marinelli Bell Foundry Agnone ©Blogginginitaly.com

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Smells:

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Pasta with Melon and Ham, Tuscher Cafe – blogginginitaly.com

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Pasta with Mozarella, rocket and Tomatoes, Domus Hotel, blogginginitaly.com

Pasta with Mozzarella, Greens and Tomatoes, Domus Hotel, blogginginitaly.com

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Settings (come rain or shine):

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And most of all – Salutes:

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Smiles:

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And a bit of Splash!

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Grazie a tutti! 

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A prossimo!!! 

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Tanti Abbracci!

Giuditta e Leonardo

 

Ristorante El Comanchero

26 Jul

The stars at night are big and bright ….deep in the heart of ….

Cortona?

Yep, you read that right! Having lived in Austin for 10 years, I can recognize a bit of ol’ west cowboy, and believe me, there’s some in Cortona that’s as good as it gets. Really. So to my Austin friends, this one’s especially for you.

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In a million years, we would have never found this place, down a dirt road with as many twists and turns as a viper. But of course, it was no secret to Lapo and Paola. The sign reads Club House and American Saloon, but the front of the restaurant gives little indication of what awaits inside.

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And there it is – the dream realized of a born and bred cowboy, Franco. Note the resemblance in the painting.

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This is a 30+ year adventure of a man with a passion, “The Man who Lives on Horseback.”

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Watch your back, Clint…Franco’s got you cornered, and he has SIX Stetsons.

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And a collection gathered and also gifted by the many friends he has made over the years.

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I didn’t realize that my brother Bill left his Black Hawks jersey when he visited us here two years ago! (Actually, son Andrea picked up the jersey when in Chicago because of the Black Hawk.)

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This is a family run business and all are involved.

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Franco, Gianluca, Ornella, Andrea –
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But let’s not forget about the food!

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Son Andrea tells us about the menu and specials,

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while some appetizers are brought to the table.

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We let them decide our menu, and it was not only international but also delicious.

Gnocchi

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Pasta with ragu

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Bison steak from the U.S. or Canada,

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Local chianina beef with green peppercorns,

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Grilled pork from Spain.

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While we were eating, Franco entertained us with his pet owl, Archimedes. Seriously.

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And Andrea brought along a one-month old they found abandoned.

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After dinner, we moved to one of the verandas for dessert and caffe,

where the stars at night are big and bright,
and the views, they go on forever!

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and Franco served grappa, not tequila, from a glass rifle.

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Before leaving,  a few more photos with the family,

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including Franco and all the wannabe cowboys, (well at least for the night)!

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Although we have walked nearly every street in Cortona over the last four years, this was such an unexpected and very fun surprise. The address is Localita Piazzanella, 247/A, but I doubt that will help you find them on a map. Funny thing is, the next day I mentioned our dinner to some local friends, and they’ve all been here. Go figure!

My toast to friends both near and far, and all whom I hold dear… do like Franco,

Grab those reins, sit tall in the saddle,
and never let go of your dream.

Ciao,

Judy

 

Summer at the Seaside

25 Jul

July is the month many Italians go to the sea. This summer, we were invited to share in the experience with Anna and John, friends from Texas, at the summer home of Anna’s parents, Giovanna and Franco.

We headed to the Livorno area, the west coast of Tuscany situated on the Terranean Sea, for a few days of quiet relaxation, great conversation, delicious food, Italian hospitality, and incredible views.

The drive from Cortona took about an hour longer than expected due to some heavy downpours and overturned vehicles blocking exit ramps, but all that was quickly forgotten when we arrived and were met by our gracious hosts and a delicious homemade lunch.

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Then time for a passagiata, or walk, and a chance to take in the views of the sea, which was a bit rough for swimming but great for photos.

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After walking, hours of conversation, and brief naps, it was time for appertivo. John did the honors.

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The cheeses were delicious, including this one with whiskey,

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and this one with grappa.

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The gardener just happened to stop by with some porcini mushrooms. (Giovanna showing them to John.)

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Giovanna turned them into several dishes including this appetizer with shaved parmigiano and olive oil.

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Time for dinner.

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And finally, dessert. Giovanna actually made this for us for breakfast but I ate it all the time!

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The next morning, I learned that an “Italian lover” lived under our same roof but was not performing well. Anna and her mother believe that every woman deserves a lover, and one that meets expectations. This lover is named Giacomo.

It turns out, the lover of whom they speak is a robotic vacuum cleaner. Theirs was about 5 years old and had run out of steam, so to speak. So, off we ladies went to Euronics to purchase Giacomo Due (2).

With Giacomo Due safely in the trunk, I was treated to a tour of Livorno, a lovely port city, by the ever knowledgeable Giovanna.

Not sure the men missed us at all, but we were anxious to see how well the slimmer, sleeker Giacomo would perform. After reading the users’ manual online, Anna shares her findings with her mother.

Anna read the

Anna read the

After a three-hour charge, Giacomo is ready! Will he fit under the couch? The ladies are intrigued but not so Anna’s father, who is busy with world economics.

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The verdict is in, Giacomo Due stays! Time for lunch and wine tasting on the veranda as the winds have quieted.

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For dessert, peaches in white wine.

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Another walk along the sea wall…

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And, as Italians are prone to do, disregard the warning of falling rocks.

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The last night, we had a lovely dinner in the small town, giving Giovanna a rest from cooking.

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Many thanks to Giovanna and Franco for sharing your home and hospitality with us. We loved experiencing the Italian summer at sea. And to Anna and John, thanks for your friendship. We finally turned our goal of being in Italia together into a reality. Bravissimo!

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Ciao,

Judy