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Easter in Cortona

In cities and towns all over Italy, religious processions are held during Easter week. Many churches have large statues and crosses that are carried on the shoulders of locals in Holy Week processions through city streets.

Last night, Good Friday, Cortona held its annual Procession of the Stations of the Cross. Signs in English were all over town to remind visitors that this is a solemn event.

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The procession began at 9 PM at the Church of Spirito Santo, a 17th-century church built just outside the medieval walls of Cortona. For those of you familiar with Cortona, picture the church beyond the bottom of steep Via Guelfa and out the wall’s entrance. Noting this is important because the route the procession takes is pretty amazing…either steeply uphill or down, and very rarely flat. (*See below for more of route.)

We waited for the procession at the Church of Saint Francis with others who had lined the steps.

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The Stations of the Cross were being read over a loud-speaker as the procession moved through parts of town.

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Local children were as involved as their parents.

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A group of strong women carried the statue of the Blessed Mother.

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After reaching its highest point, the procession came down Via S. Margherita toward Via Nazionale.

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The final destination was Piazza Republicca, where the statues were placed on platforms.

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At about 10:30 PM, religious dignitaries gathered at the top of the Municipio and a local bishop led all in prayer before the choir sang.

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A year ago, Len and I were in Trapani, Sicily, for their incredible Misteri di Trapani, a 24 hour procession. It was large and dramatic, with musicians and choirs accompanying each heavy statue carried on the shoulders of dozens of men. But Trapani is flat, and Cortona is anything but. So, while Cortona’s procession was smaller, with less music and drama, it was nonetheless incredible to see the procession maneuver through the ancient town. Whether elaborate or small, dramatic or simple, it is each town’s commitment to carrying out tradition that matters.

Today, Saturday, Cortona is bustling with people, here to participate in the Easter weekend. I’m told there is a midnight mass tonight at the Duomo, and masses at various times and churches tomorrow.

The smells of special Easter breads and pastries fill the spring air, and tomorrow most Italians will gather around large lunches with their families and friends to celebrate Easter, as will we.

In Italy, the Monday after Easter is also a holiday called Pasquetta. Though not a religious holiday, Pasquetta is another day for family and friends to gather and also spend some relaxing time outdoors. It was introduced by the government after World War II.

Wherever your plans may take you, a gathering big or small,
I wish you a very Happy Easter – Buona Pasqua to all!

Ciao,
Judy

*Note: for those wanting more on the route, I believe it was up Via Guelfa, connecting to Via Ghini, up the very steep Via Maffei to San Francesco Church, on past the old hospital to Via S. Margherita, down through Piazza Garibaldi to Via Nazionale and finally ending in Piazza Republicca.

Tags: Buona Pasqua, Easter in Cortona

Comments 13 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian History, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Pageantry, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany

Risotto Made Easy

3 Apr

Although my mother was a great Italian cook, risotto was not something I grew up eating. My ancestors were from southern Italy, so pasta with red sauce was the norm. When I finally learned about risotto, it always seemed like something that required too much patience and time to cook.

Lucky for me, my native Italian friends have taken the mystery out of risotto.

Tonight I made risotto con cipolle e piselli – risotto with onions and peas. Perhaps the most important tip I have learned is to use Carnaroli rice. It seems foolproof and makes a wonderfully creamy risotto. A second tip is to flavor the water or broth with what I am adding to the risotto.

Obviously, you can make risotto many different ways, but I thought I’d share my simple recipe for others who are hesitant to make it. And, Len said it was really good!

Tonight’s Simple Recipe: (measurements are suggestions!)

Ingredients:
Carnaroli rice, onion, garlic, water or broth, peas, olive oil, parmesan cheese, salt and pepper to taste.

©Blogginginitaly.com

Directions:
Start with two pots: one for the liquid and another for the risotto. Use a ratio of about 3;1, liquid to rice.

Add 3 cups of water (or broth) to the small pot and 1/2 cup frozen peas; heat to boil, then lower to keep simmering.
In the larger pot, sauté one medium onion and one garlic clove in olive oil for a few minutes, then add one cup of risotto, and sauté a few more minutes. Don’t burn the rice!
Begin to add the hot liquid to the risotto, one ladle at a time. Stir a bit and when the liquid is almost absorbed, add another ladle and stir, and continue in this process until the risotto is done, about 15-20 minutes. Note: I used all of the liquid, but did not stir constantly.
Turn off heat, add parmesan cheese and stir. Salt and pepper to taste.
Ladle into bowls, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with parmesan cheese, and enjoy.

©Blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

Note: Broth and white wine are great liquid substitutes or additions (when you have them!), but water works fine, as do any number of vegetables, e.g., roasted red peppers, mushrooms, asparagus. Be creative and let me know what you come up with!

Tags: Carnaroli rice, Risotto

Comments 10 Comments
Categories Cortona, Food, Italian Cooking with Friends, Italian Food, Italy, My Blog about Italy

Familiar Footing

30 Mar

Why did we fall in love with Cortona? So very many reasons, but suffice it to say we did – this being our eighth stay. And although so much is familiar, this ancient Etruscan town never ceases to amaze.

The incredible views…

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Local food sourcing… (10 huge fresh artichokes for under $4.50!)

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Tiny cars that seem to suck in their sides as they traverse the hills and uneven narrow streets – (my Fiat 500).

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And of course, the delicious food.

AD Braceria ©Blogginginitaly.com

Tuscher Caffe ©Blogginginitaly.com

First day of 2017 outside seating at Tuscher Caffe ©Blogginginitaly.com

The weather has been perfect – blue sky sunny days, cool nights, and signs of Spring’s magnificent return in the colors popping up everywhere.

And while all of the above is wonderful, nothing quite compares to the sincere smiles and heartfelt “ben tornato” (welcome back) long embraces we’ve received from our local friends.

I guess the answer to my opening question is simple: they are truly the reason we fell in love with Cortona and why we happily return.

For now, time to give in to jet lag, but much more to come.

Ciao,
Judy

Comments 19 Comments
Categories Cortona, Food, Food shopping in Cortona, Italian Food, Italy, Market Day, My Blog about Italy, Renting in Cortona, Tuscany

Show Me Some Green

14 Mar

March 14 is still winter in Chicago, but Mother Nature has spoiled us. We haven’t had any significant snowfall since mid December. Not that we haven’t had some very cold days, but coupled with sunny and warm days, our boots have dried and been pushed to the back of the closet. Many spring flowers have poked through the winter ground and spring buds have begun to grace the trees.

Until now. Here’s how the morning greeted us.

©Blogginginitaly.com

Why are some of us a bit disappointed?

It’s spring fever. That is what the name of it is. And when you’ve got it, you want — oh, you don’t quite know what it is you do want, but it just fairly makes your heart ache, you want it so! ~Mark Twain, Tom Sawyer, Detective

Exactly. So here’s some green to enjoy while awaiting the actual arrival of spring.

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Cortona©Blogginginitaly.com

Chicago©Blogginginitaly.com

And if that doesn’t quite do it, try this.

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As the proverb says…No matter how long the winter, spring is sure to follow.

Ciao,
Judy

Tags: Signs of Spring

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Chicago, Cortona, My Blog about Italy

In My Words

31 Dec

I’ve often wondered, with this age of technology, where will my online stories and photos end up? Oh, not next year, or even 10 years from now, but off in the future when a grandchild might be interested. I was lucky that my grandfather, Alex, took time to write letters, and even more fortunate that his wife and daughter took care to keep them.

Over many years since childhood, I failed to complete many of the journals and scrapbooks that I had purchased. I, like so many, still have a large bin of photos in storage, and many, many stories that rely on memory.

But that changed with my blog. Without actually understanding what I was launching in 2011, I embarked on a “journaling journey” that would forever capture my thoughts, adventures and photos, and really change my life. It began as a personal journal, for family members and a few friends, to follow Len’s and my first “three-week alone” trip to Cortona.

I never could have imagined all that I would gain from my writing – unknown family history, unknown relatives, reacquaintance with long-lost friends, incredible new friendships, unexpected invitations, and so on, as well as the joy of being able to “revisit” each and every event or place that touched our lives in the last six years. In addition, I never could have imagined how many others would come along for the adventure. Since 2011, 0ver 25,000 people from more than 100 countries have visited blogginginitaly!

For Christmas, I surprised Len with hard copy books of our adventures, one per year. Each has a custom front and back cover, a dedication page, and the blogs from that entire year. We need only flip open a page at random to relive a wonderful experience, photos included!

©Blogginginitaly.com Front covers 2011-2015

©Blogginginitaly.com Back covers 2011 -2015

And now I know that as long as there’s a bookshelf, my stories will have a home, regardless of how technology might change in the future.

Thanks to all who have joined us on our journey. I’ve loved your comments and the opportunity to share our adventures with you. And yes, there’s more in store for 2017, including planting the next garden. Can we grow an even larger tomato in 2017????

Happy New Year, may it be filled with good health, and may we each, in some way, contribute to a kinder, gentler, more tolerant and more peaceful world.

Happy New Year! Tanti Auguri di Buon Anno!
Ciao,
Judy

Tags: Felice Anno Nuovo, Happy New Year, Tanti Auguri di Buon Anno!

Comments 28 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Renting in Cortona

Medieval Jousters on Horses in Cortona

22 Oct

For days, we had heard that the horses were coming, yet no one I spoke with knew why. Today, as with many days in Cortona, we were surprised and delighted with a colorful Medieval spectacle.

As overheard in the piazza, the nearby city of Arezzo has been highly victorious in jousting competitions this year. They came to Cortona today, dressed in their finest and with their victors high on horseback, to give thanks to their patron saint, Margherita. One of the participants told me this was a festival of adoration to their patron saint in appreciation for their success this year.

From our house, I heard the drummers and arrived just in time to see them enter the piazza from Via Roma.

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A few minutes later, the horses and jousters appeared in full matching Medieval regalia.

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Once the horses took their places,

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the flag wavers entered and all watched as they performed.

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In Italy, flag waving and throwing is a skill learned by the young and perfected over many years. It is an important part of many of the Medieval festivals and ceremonies, and one that requires years of practice.

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When the performance was finished, they joined the dignitaries on the grand steps of the Municipio for the speeches of gratitude.

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Following the ceremony in the piazza, the parade moved down Via Nazionale, the main and only flat street of Cortona.

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Their ultimate destination was the beautiful Santa Margherita Church at the top of Cortona –

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where the saint lies in glass at the foot of the altar.

In towns and cities all over Italy, ancient customs live on in the hearts, minds and practices of the people who received them from their ancestors and pass them on to future generations. It’s easy to get caught up in the pageantry and imagine days gone by. No matter how often I see one of these, it’s always quite a spectacle to behold.

©Blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

Note: Click on any picture to enlarge.

Tags: Arezzo, Flag Bearers, Medieval Festival, Medieval Jousters, Medieval Pageantry

Comments 12 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian Festival, Italian History, Italy, Medieval, My Blog about Italy, Pageantry, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany

Autumn Colors of Cortona

17 Oct

As the days shorten and the sun’s heat weakens, autumn colors and vistas are wrapping their arms around the ancient city of Cortona.

Zucchini flowers are at their end,

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As are the tomatoes that have delighted all spring, summer and early fall.

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Local olives are nearly ready to be picked, and after a trip to the local mill, become 100% Italian olive oil. Worth repeating – 100%!

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In all directions, there is beauty in nature; vibrant colors are everywhere. Mid October showers us with 11 hours of daylight and a temperature usually in the 60s, just what one hopes for in the fall.

If you’ve been to Cortona, the views will beckon you to return. If not, join me for a stroll through the Parterre.

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If you can’t join us in Cortona, I hope you make time to take in the beauty of fall – wherever your walks may take you.

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You might just be surprised at what you find.

Ciao,
Judy

Tags: Cortona Parterre, Cortona views, Fall in Cortona

Comments 3 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian countryside, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

La Cannuccia, C. del Lago

10 Oct

Winter arrived today, so say the Italians, as the winds were strong and the dark clouds made the temperatures drop. Suddenly, fashion consisted of turtlenecks, an abundance of scarves, and “puffy” (down) coats and jackets. Luckily for us, we were prepared.

With a sprinkle in the air in Cortona, we got in our Fiat 500, destination unknown, and soon found ourselves in Castiglione del Lago. Stronger winds and bigger clouds greeted us,

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but without rain, and a goal of fresh air and exercise, we were happy to walk as we had the lake and view to ourselves.

Water is mesmerizing, and as we walked, we watched the waves crash upon the rocks. The seagulls were playing what looked like Marco Polo, that “catch me if you can” game we played as kids and they played with the waves.

After awhile, the clouds broke across the lake and the sun shone like a spotlight on several of the hill towns.

Eventually, we stopped for lunch at La Cannuccia, our lakeside go-to cafe. We ordered our usual split lunch, a grilled panino and mixed salad, which is served with delicious warm rolls.

After lunch, Riccardo asked if we were football fans.

“I’m a big baseball fan at the moment,” I replied, “as I’m from Chicago and …”

“Chicago Cubs!” he said and smiled.

“We live about two miles from…”

“Wrigley Field!” he exclaimed.

“You must like baseball,” I said.

“Not so much. It can be boring, especially when there is a pitching battle,” he replied.

“Like the first game the other night…”

“When the Cubs won 1-0 against the San Francisco Giants,” he quickly replied.

“We haven’t won in over a century, and…”

“The goat,” he said, and raised his hands like Italians do. “I don’t believe.”

By now, Len was intrigued. Since our dear friends, Carrol and Larry, had left weeks ago, Len had not found anyone to have a good baseball conversation with. And here was Riccardo, born and raised locally, owner of a bar in Castiglione del Lago in the center of Italy, speaking English, he – a fountain of knowledge about American baseball, a sport that wasn’t even his favorite.

After they talked baseball for a bit, I asked what Il Cannuccia means. “It’s the tall grass that grows in a swamp,” he said, as he pointed to the bottom right of a giant photo on the face of the bar. 100 years ago, much of the lake was a swamp.

The present bar was built in the 50’s. It has been in Riccardo’s family since the mid 70’s and is now operated by Riccardo and his brother Simone.

I asked if I could take a few pictures. “Sure, but the best view is looking out.”

Easy to see why he thinks that and one of the reasons we keep returning.

After lunch, I considered having gelato, as theirs is very good. Then, with a twinkle in his eye, Ricardo asked if we like cream. “Sure, why not,” I answered, and he set off to make something special for us.

He arrived with this.

This incredibly light “sugar donut” is called a ciambella. He quartered it, and topped it with panna fresca, (fresh cream,) and cacao candela, (cinnamon). My sister Florence and her husband Vince would have ordered this and skipped the salad and panino. Benita too.

Castiglione del Lago in Umbria is about 30 minutes from Cortona on the SW corner of Lago Trasimeno. Although Cortona is a city where you don’t need a car, if you have one, it is such fun exploring all the neighboring towns, taking in the sights, and making interesting new friends like Riccardo. Who knew???

Ciao,
Judy

Tags: Castiglione del Lago, Ciambella con panna fresca, La Cannuccia Bar, Lago Trasimeno, Umbria

Comments 12 Comments
Categories Caffe, Cortona, Food, Italian countryside, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Umbria

Training at Tuscher Bar Cortona

7 Oct

Recently, I was invited to write a piece for Chowhound. Their “Features” section has food and beverage articles written by food writers, chefs, cookbook authors, etc. For my first article, I decided to write about cappuccino, then headed to my favorite bar in Cortona, Tuscher Bar, to get some “barista” training.

As I have written many times, Tuscher Bar is our go-to place in Cortona for breakfast, lunch, and aperitivo. If you’ve visited us, you’ve been to Tuscher. It’s the place where you meet old friends, make new ones, and where Massimo, Daniela, Niccolo and Edoardo make you feel at home.

I had such fun learning how to make Cappuccino Tre Colore, both hot and cold, and you will too. If you are in Cortona, visit the experts at Tuscher Bar on Via Nazionale. If not, have some fun making it yourself, and let me know how you do!

Cappuccino Tre Colore©Blogginginitaly.com

For step by step photos and instructions, click below for my article:
Impress Your Friends this Fall with New Barista Skills.

Ciao,
Judy

Tags: Caffe Tuscher, Cappuccino Tre Colore, Hot and Cold Cappuccino, Via Nazionale Cortona

Comments 13 Comments
Categories Caffe, Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

San Francesco d’Assisi

4 Oct

Saint Francis of Assisi, born Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone, is one of the most venerated religious figures in history. He lived from 1182 – 1226, and during his lifetime, founded several orders including the men’s Order of Friars Minor and the women’s Order of Saint Clare. He was canonized on July 16, 1228, by Pope Gregory IX. He, along with Saint Catherine of Siena, are the patron saints of Italy.

The feast of St. Francis of Assisi is celebrated today, October 4. Throughout Italy, and in particular the central parts of Italy where St. Francis lived, there are many celebrations in his honor. Unlike so many of the gold and ornate churches and monasteries, those of St. Francis tend to be simple in design and without pretense.

Chiesa di San Francesco, Cortona, ©Blogginginitaly.com

From our front door, it is 115 steps, mostly up, to San Francesco in Cortona, and it is well worth the climb. The sparse interior holds many treasures and is our favorite among Cortona churches.

According to Cortona history, the Church was built over the ruins of a Roman bath. The area, which was a municipal property, had been donated to Friar Elia, Francis’ successor, who had the church built in honor of St. Francis. The facade, the large door, and the entire left wall are part of the original church which was dedicated in 1254. Friar Elia is buried in the choir area behind the altar.

The interior underwent renovations in the 16th and 17th centuries. During that time, several incredible original frescoes from the school of Buffalmacco, dating back to 1382, were rediscovered behind paintings.

On the altar, in a large marble baroque tabernacle dating from 1619, is a relic from the Holy Cross, donated to Friar Elia by the Constantine Emperor.

And finally, to the left of the main altar is the statue of St. Francis and some items as described below.

As I write, the bells from the church are ringing. Three of the five are electric, but of the original two, one was cast in 1250 and the second in 1267.

In addition to this beautiful church, Cortona is home to Le Celle, an incredible monastery and sanctuary which developed both during and after St. Francis’ life.

It is here that you can see the room, or cell, where St. Francis slept.

Every time I visit either the San Francesco Church or Le Celle, I find myself caught up in the tranquility each has to offer. And while Cortona can sometimes be a bustling town, each of these remains an oasis of serenity – a wonderful place to reflect, meditate, pray, or simply take in the moment.

For more on Le Celle, click on a previous post: Franciscan Hermitage of Le Celle, Cortona.

Ciao,
Judy

Tags: Feast of St. Francis, Hermitage of San Francesco, Le Celle, San Francesco Chiesa Cortona

Comments 14 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian Art, Italian History, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Renting in Cortona, Symbol of Christianity, Tuscany

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Blogging In Italy

Easter in Cortona

Risotto Made Easy

Familiar Footing

Show Me Some Green

In My Words

Medieval Jousters on Horses in Cortona

Autumn Colors of Cortona

La Cannuccia, C. del Lago

Training at Tuscher Bar Cortona

San Francesco d’Assisi

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