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Tuscher Caffé

On our last day in Cortona this summer, a group of ladies stopped me and asked where they might enjoy a great breakfast. “Follow me,” I said, then walked them to our favorite eating destination in all of Cortona – Tuscher Caffé.

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As I’ve written many times, one of the things we enjoy most about Cortona is its Italian authenticity. Most of the restaurants, shops, and stores are owned and operated by local Italians, and these places are where we prefer to spend our time.

This two-story Caffé opened in 2003 in the beautiful Palazzo Ferretti on Via Nazionale. Massimo and Daniela, the owners and operators of the caffé, named it after the building’s architect, Carl Marcus Tuscher, who worked in Italy from 1728-41.

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They, along with their sons Niccolo and Edoardo, tend to every detail, and it clearly shows.

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Looking for breakfast? Whether a simple coffee and pastry, or an omelet, look no further.

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Thinking about lunch? Your biggest decision is not whether to sit inside or out, rather, how to choose which delicious dish to order. Always the freshest ingredients coupled with creativity, and always made to order…

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And let’s not forget about dessert:

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In Italy, people often gather in the evening for appertivo. This wonderful tradition consists of meeting friends or family members for a pre-dinner drink such as prosecco or vermouth. Historically, these drinks were accompanied by nuts and olives so as not to ruin an appetite, and instead, open up the stomach for the meal to come.

Today, appertivo has taken on a different meaning where along with a wide variety of specialty cocktails, delicious and creative appetizers are served – all free of charge.

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Winter or summer, appertivo is an evening ritual in Cortona.

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Unless it is Monday, and Tuscher is closed, hardly a day passes that we don’t enjoy one or more meals here. After our several mile hike each morning, Len always declares, “It’s time for a proper lunch,” and for us, that’s typically a Tuscher lunch. We love the food and the atmosphere, and most of all, we love the friends and friendships we have made here.

As for those lovely ladies I introduced to Tuscher in the morning…well, they obviously liked the recommendation as they were back having lunch when we arrived to do the same.

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To Dani, Massimo, Niccolo and Edoardo, thanks for all of your hard work and dedication and for making Tuscher Caffé such a special part of our Cortona life. And to my dear friend, Dani, Buon Compleanno!

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You truly are a sweetie pie!

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If you are a regular, see you there. If you’ve never been, try it. You’ll thank me later!

Ciao,

Judy

www.caffetuschercortona.com

Tags: Appertivo, Cortona, Italian cocktail time, Tuscher Caffe, www.caffetuschercortona.com

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Caffe, Cortona, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Piazza Life

15 Sep

Recently, I read an article in a Chicago paper about a local community that created a new and different type of outdoor space. It’s a place where restaurants, shops, pedestrians and vehicles commingle. While this may be new to an Illinois community, it is a way of life in much of Europe, something that I have long referred to as Piazza Life.

What is it about Italian Piazza Life that is so appealing? Just about everything.

Each piazza has its own borders, if you will, created by beautiful ancient buildings that have been repurposed. An old prison is now a museum, a villa now a bank, and a stable now an enoteca.

The center of the piazza may have a fountain or statue, or be empty and provide a stage for any number of diverse events. Nowhere is this better seen than in Cortona, where Piazza Life is a way of life.

While there are several piazzas in Cortona, the two main ones are Piazza Republicca and Piazza Signorelli. They are physically adjacent to one another, yet each has its own identity and events.

You know you are in Piazza Republicca when you are facing the grand staircase of the Municipio or Municipal building.

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While it is used for several city functions, it also provides a beautiful setting for many weddings where everyone in the piazza seems to join in the celebration.

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In this piazza, you can sit in or outside of a number of cafes; shop at a grocery store, fruit market, wine store, or florist; and buy shoes, handbags, linens, and even a borselino, all actually made in Italy.

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People gather, some doing their morning shopping, others stopping for a chat with friends.

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Cars and cyclists navigate through pedestrians of all ages, and pop up performers are a common site.

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Celebrations commemorating historical events are held here.

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And while the piazzas are significantly quieter in the winter, they still draw people together for such delights as the incredible Christmastime lamp lighting celebration.

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Piazza Signorelli, the adjacent Piazza, is also breathtaking in its beauty, whether bathed in sunshine

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or glowing in the moonlight.

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Piazza Life provides a daily local gathering venue, be it day or night, for spontaneous and scheduled events, including

kids playing soccer;

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local musicians;

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vintage car enthusiasts;

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food and antique vendors;

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annual traditions;

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marching bands;

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and avid sports fans.

Whether you find yourself almost alone in an ancient Piazza, (and yes it is possible!)…

or surrounded by friends you have not yet made,

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just be prepared to be amazed by the sights and sounds.

Piazza Life – wonderful! …and no reservation required.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Piazza Republicca, Piazza Signorelli

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Market, Cortona Restaurant, Cortona Trattoria, Cortona weddings, Italian Fashion, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, Market Day, Medieval, My Blog about Italy, Pageantry, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany

Arrivederci Cortona – 2014

30 Jul

Some wonderful sights, sounds, smells, settings,
and most of all, salutes and smiles (and a bit of splash!)
that we will take home, in photos and in our hearts…

Sights:

Pietrabbondante ©Blogginginitaly.com

Bagnoli dei Trigno – blogginginitaly.com

Gubbio – blogginginitaly.com

Lago Trasimeno – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Cortona – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Sounds:

Terrenean Sea, Quercinella – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Marinelli Bell Foundry, Agnone ©Blogginginitaly.com

Carmen, Cortona Teatro ©Blogginginitaly.com

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Smells:

Pasta with Melon and Ham, Tuscher Cafe – blogginginitaly.com

Pasta Napoletana, AD, ©Blogginginitaly.com

Pasta Neapolitana, AD Ristorante, ©Blogginginitaly.com

Pasta with Mozarella, rocket and Tomatoes, Domus Hotel, blogginginitaly.com

Pasta with Mozzarella, Greens and Tomatoes, Domus Hotel, blogginginitaly.com

Eggplant a la Giovanna©Blogginginitaly.com

Fernanda's Green Peppercorn Filet - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Fernanda’s Green Peppercorn Filet and Garden Vegetables – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Settings (come rain or shine):

Ivan, Lori & Tomas
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Lapo & Paola – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Giovanna & Franco – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Massimo & Daniela – ©Blogginginitaly.com

And most of all – Salutes:

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Smiles:

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And a bit of Splash!

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Grazie a tutti!

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A prossimo!!!

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Tanti Abbracci!

Giuditta e Leonardo

Tags: Cortona, el Comanchero Ristorante, Italian cuisine, Pietrabbondante, Ristorante AD Braceria, Tuscan countryside, Tuscany, Tuscher Caffe

Comments 5 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Food, Grilling in Italy, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italian Wine Tasting, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Renting in Cortona, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Ristorante El Comanchero

26 Jul

The stars at night are big and bright ….deep in the heart of ….

Cortona?

Yep, you read that right! Having lived in Austin for 10 years, I can recognize a bit of ol’ west cowboy, and believe me, there’s some in Cortona that’s as good as it gets. Really. So to my Austin friends, this one’s especially for you.

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In a million years, we would have never found this place, down a dirt road with as many twists and turns as a viper. But of course, it was no secret to Lapo and Paola. The sign reads Club House and American Saloon, but the front of the restaurant gives little indication of what awaits inside.

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And there it is – the dream realized of a born and bred cowboy, Franco. Note the resemblance in the painting.

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This is a 30+ year adventure of a man with a passion, “The Man who Lives on Horseback.”

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Watch your back, Clint…Franco’s got you cornered, and he has SIX Stetsons.

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And a collection gathered and also gifted by the many friends he has made over the years.

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I didn’t realize that my brother Bill left his Black Hawks jersey when he visited us here two years ago! (Actually, son Andrea picked up the jersey when in Chicago because of the Black Hawk.)

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This is a family run business and all are involved.

Franco, Gianluca, Ornella, Andrea –
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But let’s not forget about the food!

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Son Andrea tells us about the menu and specials,

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while some appetizers are brought to the table.

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We let them decide our menu, and it was not only international but also delicious.

Gnocchi

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Pasta with ragu

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Bison steak from the U.S. or Canada,

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Local chianina beef with green peppercorns,

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Grilled pork from Spain.

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While we were eating, Franco entertained us with his pet owl, Archimedes. Seriously.

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And Andrea brought along a one-month old they found abandoned.

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After dinner, we moved to one of the verandas for dessert and caffe,

where the stars at night are big and bright,
and the views, they go on forever!

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and Franco served grappa, not tequila, from a glass rifle.

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Before leaving, a few more photos with the family,

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including Franco and all the wannabe cowboys, (well at least for the night)!

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Although we have walked nearly every street in Cortona over the last four years, this was such an unexpected and very fun surprise. The address is Localita Piazzanella, 247/A, but I doubt that will help you find them on a map. Funny thing is, the next day I mentioned our dinner to some local friends, and they’ve all been here. Go figure!

My toast to friends both near and far, and all whom I hold dear… do like Franco,

Grab those reins, sit tall in the saddle,
and never let go of your dream.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: A Cowboy in Cortona, el Comanchero Ristorante, Pet Owl

Comments 12 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Food, Grilling in Italy, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Ham and Cheese, Please

22 Jul

Looking for an afternoon snack?

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and a few added reds?

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Throw in a little romance…

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And something to toast with…

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Salute!

Ciao,

Judy

Comments 1 Comment
Categories Cortona, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Tuscany

Ristorante AD Braceria

20 Jul

There is a wonderful new restaurant in Cortona called Ristorante AD Braceria. The ancient setting was rebuilt several times over many years from four small homes with a street down the middle and the building is still owned by the original family. What was the old street now runs through the center of the restaurant.

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Today, there are many intimate settings for dining…(if only these walls could talk!)

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Business partners Anna and Tito opened this wonderful restaurant which specializes in meat and fish, the latter being a great addition to Cortona, more known for Chianina beef. I felt an instant connection with Anna, as she is from Naples and her husband Marco is from Nola, southern towns where my maternal grandparents were born.

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Braceria can be translated as a carvery, or a place where they slice the meet to order, whether it is prosciutto, veal, or a chianina beef steak.

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At AD, the fish is always fresh.

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We have dined here many times with local and visiting friends and have enjoyed a variety of dishes each time.

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Our meals have been delicious and beautifully presented, and we often let Anna decide our menu. Here’s a sampling:

Shrimp carpaccio with burrata:

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Breaded Clams:

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Seafood salad with five grains:

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Salmon marinated with citrus fruits:

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Octopus salad with mashed potatoes:

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Mixed grilled seafood:

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Len having fun:

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Handmade fresh pasta stuffed with sea bass, shrimp and tomatoes:

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Rigatoni with artichokes, bacon and pecorino:

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Grilled chicken (wait time 35 minutes and well worth the wait!)

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Grilled fillet with rosemary:

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Handcut veal with rosemary:

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Fresh green beans with balsamic:

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And my very favorite –

Paccheri with braceria ragu (veal and pork):

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This pasta is a traditional peasant dish from Naples, made from the various cuts of meat, and simmered for 12 hours with tomatoes and wine. Note: THIS IS THE BEST PASTA I HAVE EVER EATEN!

As one might expect, the desserts are incredible.

Hot and dark chocolate cake with gelato:

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Daily fresh fruit sorbet, (on left) …Typical dessert from Napoli on right:

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We are delighted with the addition of this restaurant in Cortona. Incredible food in an incredible setting – Perfetto!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: AD Ristorante, Pesce e Carne in Cortona, Ristorante AD Braceria

Comments 9 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Food, Grilling in Italy, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italian Recipe, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Naples, Tuscany

I Hope We Dance

18 Jul

Lee Ann Womack’s signature song, written by Tia Sillers and Mark Sanders, is called “I Hope You Dance”. It won the Grammy Award for Best Country Song and also the Country Music Award for Song Of The Year in 2001, and for good reason – it has such a great “hook” line:

And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance.
I hope you dance….I hope you dance.

Last night, at about 11:30 PM, the lyrics of the song came to me as we joined others in Piazza Republicca after dinner. A band was playing, people were gathering, and a few of us started dancing with the lead singer. Surrounded by ancient buildings, the words seem to fit perfectly for old and young alike…

I hope you never lose your sense of wonder, (Go Len!)

I hope you still feel small when you stand beside the ocean, (or amazing antiquities!)

(or comfortable dancing with the lead singer!)

May you never take one single breath for granted,

Give the heavens above more than just a passing glance,

And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance,

I hope you dance….I hope you dance.

According to Sillers, this song is about taking chances and not being afraid to try something new. In our travels, and in life in general, may we always choose to dance!

Ciao,

Judy

For more of Lee Ann Womack’s signature song, click below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RV-Z1YwaOiw

Tags: I Hope You Dance, Lee Ann Womack, Piazza Republicca Cortona

Comments 10 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany

How to Say “Yellow” in Italian…

13 Jul

blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Everything yellow, Italian car, Italian house, Italian leather, Sunflowers

Comments 8 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian Art, Italian countryside, Italian Fashion, Italian History, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Cortona Liberazione

6 Jul

Today in Cortona, the locals celebrated 70 years since the liberation of their city in 1944.

With proud veterans

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and original military vehicles and equipment,

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Italians and members of the Great Generation Airborne Group (dressed as British and American soldiers), stood at attention

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as a wreath was laid.

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Songs were sung and people joined in the parade

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vowing never to forget those who served and liberated their ancient and lovely town.

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Ciao,

Judy

Tags: 1944 Cortona Liberation Celebration, Cortona 1944-2014, Piazza Republicca Cortona

Comments Leave a Comment
Categories Cortona, Italian Festival, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Pageantry, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca

Making Cheese with Lapo

28 Jun

One day pasta, the next day cheese. What could be better than learning from two experts? My latest lesson: pecorino and ricotta.

Lapo began by explaining the process. The milk is fresh from their sheep and needs to be heated carefully.

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There is a special utensil used to stir the milk and cause the cheese bulk to form.

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An expert like Lapo doesn’t need a thermometer to know when it’s ready – instead, it’s all done by touch. In the meantime, while the milk is heating, he explains how they coat cheese before storing it. He demonstrates two methods – one using ash from the previous night’s grilling with added olive oil and the second from a tomato like paste made from his garden.

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The rounds are then stacked on their sides to allow air to circulate between them and are separated with walnut leaves, which impart a slight flavor.

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He shows us some storage barrels, one with hay and one with the dried walnut leaves. The first is from 1798. If you look closely at the second, you can see the rounds of cheese in them.

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Lapo knows the milk has reached the proper temperature when the tool stands upright unsupported.

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Then the twirling action begins… fast and precise…

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until the liquid separates from the cheese.

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We sample the cheese at this point and it is somewhat rubbery, a bit sweet, and without much taste.

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Thus far, Lapo is doing all the work, but now it is our turn to get involved. We are each given a portion of cheese and per instructions, are to hold and pinch the cheese carefully, slowly eliminating water from the cheese. Thanks, Carrol, for the great photos that follow.

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This is actually harder than it sounds, as it requires much patience and pressure from only fingers. When my fingers start to hurt, I use my palms, but alas, the master catches me in the act, so back to finger pinching for me.

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When Lapo is satisfied we have pushed out sufficient water, we empty our bowls for the next step.

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Time to turn the cheese over…

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Now we push, not pinch, with outstretched fingers.

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Lapo is not only watching us, but touching our hands to ensure they are warm from our body heat. Cold hands are not good for making cheese, and he announces that our hands passed…we are all about the same proper temperature.

After several rounds of pressing, my cheese begins to have a nice fragrance, so I give my friend Larry a whiff.

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This is the fruit of our efforts!

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In keeping with the tradition of using everything, Lapo takes the milky water we have pushed from our cheese and begins making ricotta. The liquid is carefully poured through a strainer to remove any clumps which would burn in the reheating.

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And then it is recooked, hence ricotta, until it reaches the proper consistency.

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As a reward for our hard work, Paola has prepared a lovely lunch on the veranda.

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First, samples of young and aged pecorino with toasted bread, small sausage bites with olives, and the class is very happy!

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Then Paola treats us to Cace e Pepe, a simple pasta made with pecorino, parmegiano, and pepper.

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Finally, we are treated with the ricotta made in class, topped with fig jam. Delicious.

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Quite full, and content with our work, I get the class to pose for a photo reminder of the great day!

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Our pecorino won’t be ready for about 10 weeks, but in the meantime, we each have a certificate to remind us of what we learned. Here’s a sample of Lapo’s Lessons:

1. Nothing can replace passion and dedication when it comes to quality, and patience is paramount.

2. Everything from the garden is better.

3. Cheese is like your body; if your body is too cold or hot, the cheese is too cold or hot, so move it.

4. Share what you make with others.

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Finally, before leaving, I had to snap a picture of the setting where I not only learned to make cheese but also experienced the love and passion of carrying on traditions from generation to generation.

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Grazie Lapo e Paola!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Family Traditions, Learning to make cheese, Making pecorino and ricotta, Traditional cheese making in Cortona

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Cortona, Food, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Recipe, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

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Blogging In Italy

Tuscher Caffé

Piazza Life

Arrivederci Cortona – 2014

Some wonderful sights, sounds, smells, settings,
and most of all, salutes and smiles (and a bit of splash!)
that we will take home, in photos and in our hearts…

Sights:

Sounds:

Smells:

Settings (come rain or shine):

And most of all – Salutes:

Smiles:

And a bit of Splash!

Ristorante El Comanchero

Cortona?

Ham and Cheese, Please

Ristorante AD Braceria

I Hope We Dance

How to Say “Yellow” in Italian…

Cortona Liberazione

Making Cheese with Lapo

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Some wonderful sights, sounds, smells, settings, and most of all, salutes and smiles (and a bit of splash!) that we will take home, in photos and in our hearts…

Sights:

Sounds:

Smells:

Settings (come rain or shine):

And most of all – Salutes:

Smiles:

And a bit of Splash!

Share this:

Cortona?

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Follow this Blog via Email

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Past Posts

© Blogginginitaly.com, 2011-2024

Some wonderful sights, sounds, smells, settings,
and most of all, salutes and smiles (and a bit of splash!)
that we will take home, in photos and in our hearts…