Archive | Cortona Restaurant RSS feed for this section

Piazza Life

15 Sep

Recently, I read an article in a Chicago paper about a local community that created a new and different type of outdoor space. It’s a place where restaurants, shops, pedestrians and vehicles commingle. While this may be new to an Illinois community, it is a way of life in much of Europe, something that I have long referred to as Piazza Life.

What is it about Italian Piazza Life that is so appealing? Just about everything.

Each piazza has its own borders, if you will, created by beautiful ancient buildings that have been repurposed. An old prison is now a museum, a villa now a bank, and a stable now an enoteca.

The center of the piazza may have a fountain or statue, or be empty and provide a stage for any number of diverse events. Nowhere is this better seen than in Cortona, where Piazza Life is a way of life.

While there are several piazzas in Cortona, the two main ones are Piazza Republicca and Piazza Signorelli. They are physically adjacent to one another, yet each has its own identity and events.

You know you are in Piazza Republicca when you are facing the grand staircase of the Municipio or Municipal building.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

While it is used for several city functions, it also provides a beautiful setting for many weddings where everyone in the piazza seems to join in the celebration.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

In this piazza, you can sit in or outside of a number of cafes; shop at a grocery store, fruit market, wine store, or florist; and buy  shoes, handbags, linens, and even a borselino, all actually made in Italy.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

People gather, some doing their morning shopping, others stopping for a chat with friends.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Cars and cyclists navigate through pedestrians of all ages, and pop up performers are a common site.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Celebrations commemorating historical events are held here.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

And while the piazzas are significantly quieter in the winter, they still draw people together for such delights as the incredible Christmastime lamp lighting celebration.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Piazza Signorelli, the adjacent Piazza, is also breathtaking in its beauty, whether bathed in sunshine

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

or glowing in the moonlight.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Piazza Life provides a daily local gathering venue, be it day or night, for spontaneous and scheduled events, including

kids playing soccer;

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

local musicians;

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

vintage car enthusiasts;

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

food and antique vendors;

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

annual traditions;

IMG_0677

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

marching bands;

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

and avid sports fans.

IMG_6293

Whether you find yourself almost alone in an ancient Piazza, (and yes it is possible!)…

IMG_0029

IMG_0515

or surrounded by friends you have not yet made,

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

just be prepared to be amazed by the sights and sounds.

Piazza Life – wonderful! …and no reservation required.

Ciao,

Judy

 

Arrivederci Cortona – 2014

30 Jul

Some wonderful sights, sounds, smells, settings, 
and most of all,  salutes and smiles (and a bit of splash!)
that we will take home, in photos and in our hearts…

Sights:

©Blogginginitaly.com

Pietrabbondante ©Blogginginitaly.com

Bagnoli dei Trigno - blogginginitaly.com

Bagnoli dei Trigno – blogginginitaly.com

Gubbio - blogginginitaly.com

Gubbio – blogginginitaly.com

Lago Trasimeno - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Lago Trasimeno – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Cortona - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Cortona – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Sounds:

Quercinella - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Terrenean Sea, Quercinella – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Marinelli Bell Foundry Agnone ©Blogginginitaly.com

Marinelli Bell Foundry, Agnone ©Blogginginitaly.com

Carmen in Cortona ©Blogginginitaly.com

Carmen, Cortona Teatro ©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Smells:

Tuscher Cafe - blogginginitaly.com

Pasta with Melon and Ham, Tuscher Cafe – blogginginitaly.com

Pasta Napoletana, AD, ©Blogginginitaly.com

Pasta Neapolitana, AD Ristorante, ©Blogginginitaly.com

Pasta with Mozarella, rocket and Tomatoes, Domus Hotel, blogginginitaly.com

Pasta with Mozzarella, Greens and Tomatoes, Domus Hotel, blogginginitaly.com

Eggplant a la Giovanna©Blogginginitaly.com

Eggplant a la Giovanna©Blogginginitaly.com

Fernanda's Green Peppercorn Filet - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Fernanda’s Green Peppercorn Filet and Garden Vegetables – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Settings (come rain or shine):

Ivan, Lori & Tomas ©Blogginginitaly.com

Ivan, Lori & Tomas
©Blogginginitaly.com

Lapo & Paola - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Lapo & Paola – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Giovanna & Franco - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Giovanna & Franco – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Massimo & Daniela  - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Massimo & Daniela – ©Blogginginitaly.com

And most of all – Salutes:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

IMG_3124

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.co

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Smiles:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

IMG_2437

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

blogginginitaly.com

blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

And a bit of Splash!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Grazie a tutti! 

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

A prossimo!!! 

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Tanti Abbracci!

Giuditta e Leonardo

 

Ristorante El Comanchero

26 Jul

The stars at night are big and bright ….deep in the heart of ….

Cortona?

Yep, you read that right! Having lived in Austin for 10 years, I can recognize a bit of ol’ west cowboy, and believe me, there’s some in Cortona that’s as good as it gets. Really. So to my Austin friends, this one’s especially for you.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

In a million years, we would have never found this place, down a dirt road with as many twists and turns as a viper. But of course, it was no secret to Lapo and Paola. The sign reads Club House and American Saloon, but the front of the restaurant gives little indication of what awaits inside.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

And there it is – the dream realized of a born and bred cowboy, Franco. Note the resemblance in the painting.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

This is a 30+ year adventure of a man with a passion, “The Man who Lives on Horseback.”

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Watch your back, Clint…Franco’s got you cornered, and he has SIX Stetsons.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

And a collection gathered and also gifted by the many friends he has made over the years.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

I didn’t realize that my brother Bill left his Black Hawks jersey when he visited us here two years ago! (Actually, son Andrea picked up the jersey when in Chicago because of the Black Hawk.)

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

This is a family run business and all are involved.

Franco, Gianluca, Ornella, Andrea -  ©Blogginginitaly.com

Franco, Gianluca, Ornella, Andrea –
©Blogginginitaly.com

But let’s not forget about the food!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Son Andrea tells us about the menu and specials,

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

while some appetizers are brought to the table.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

We let them decide our menu, and it was not only international but also delicious.

Gnocchi

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Pasta with ragu

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Bison steak from the U.S. or Canada,

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Local chianina beef with green peppercorns,

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Grilled pork from Spain.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

While we were eating, Franco entertained us with his pet owl, Archimedes. Seriously.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

And Andrea brought along a one-month old they found abandoned.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

After dinner, we moved to one of the verandas for dessert and caffe,

where the stars at night are big and bright,
and the views, they go on forever!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

and Franco served grappa, not tequila, from a glass rifle.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Before leaving,  a few more photos with the family,

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

including Franco and all the wannabe cowboys, (well at least for the night)!

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Although we have walked nearly every street in Cortona over the last four years, this was such an unexpected and very fun surprise. The address is Localita Piazzanella, 247/A, but I doubt that will help you find them on a map. Funny thing is, the next day I mentioned our dinner to some local friends, and they’ve all been here. Go figure!

My toast to friends both near and far, and all whom I hold dear… do like Franco,

Grab those reins, sit tall in the saddle,
and never let go of your dream.

Ciao,

Judy

 

Ristorante AD Braceria

20 Jul

There is a wonderful new restaurant in Cortona called Ristorante AD Braceria. The ancient setting was rebuilt several times over many years from four small homes with a street down the middle and the building is still owned by the original family. What was the old street now runs through the center of the restaurant.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Today, there are many intimate settings for dining…(if only these walls could talk!)

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Business partners Anna and Tito opened this wonderful restaurant which specializes in meat and fish, the latter being a great addition to Cortona, more known for Chianina beef. I felt an instant connection with Anna, as she is from Naples and her husband Marco is from Nola, southern towns where my maternal grandparents were born.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Braceria can be translated as a carvery, or a place where they slice the meet to order, whether it is prosciutto, veal, or a chianina beef steak.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

At AD, the fish is always fresh.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

We have dined here many times with local and visiting friends and have enjoyed a variety of dishes each time.

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Our meals have been delicious and beautifully presented, and we often let Anna decide our menu. Here’s a sampling:

Shrimp carpaccio with burrata:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Breaded Clams:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Seafood salad with five grains:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Salmon marinated with citrus fruits:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Octopus salad with mashed potatoes:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Mixed grilled seafood:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Len having fun:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Handmade fresh pasta stuffed with sea bass, shrimp and tomatoes:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Rigatoni with artichokes, bacon and pecorino:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Grilled chicken (wait time 35 minutes and well worth the wait!)

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Grilled fillet with rosemary:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Handcut veal with rosemary:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Fresh green beans with balsamic:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

And my very favorite –

Paccheri with braceria ragu (veal and pork):

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

This pasta is a traditional peasant dish from Naples, made from the various cuts of meat, and simmered for 12 hours with tomatoes and wine. Note: THIS IS THE BEST PASTA I HAVE EVER EATEN!

As one might expect, the desserts are incredible.

Hot and dark chocolate cake with gelato:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

Daily fresh fruit sorbet, (on left) …Typical dessert from Napoli on right:

©Blogginginitaly.com

©Blogginginitaly.com

We are delighted with the addition of this restaurant in Cortona. Incredible food in an incredible setting – Perfetto!

Ciao,

Judy

 

“An Enchanting Walk”…

21 Jun

There is a new project underway in Cortona entitled An Enchanting Walk Under the Tuscan Sun. The goal of the program (I think)  is to increase awareness of the historic center of Cortona and other towns in Tuscany, and it ties to some of Frances Mayes’ writings and some of the shooting locations of the movie. Tonight she was celebrated as a Cortona ambassador and together, we toured some of the town’s historic sites. I had a chance to speak with her briefly and she was very gracious.

IMG_2267

Frances Mayes in Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

An unscheduled stop was in the piazza, where there were several vintage sport cars on display including Fiats, Alphas, and a Mercedes or two.

Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Vintage Fiat, Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Earlier today was the typical wedding concluding on the grand steps of the municipal building, where the uninvited join the guests,

Wedding Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

Wedding Cortona, Blogginginitaly.com

this one followed by a release of white balloons.

IMG_2252

Last night, we enjoyed a wonderful multi-course fish dinner at AD, a new restaurant in town, with a chef  from Napoli. I took many photos and will write about it as soon as I can get back to ask the chef what we ate! (There were eight of us and we let the chef decide our dinner.)

Always something interesting happening in Cortona.

Ciao,

Judy

 

 

Return to Cortona

19 Jun

Hardly here 24 hours and have already reconnected with so many local friends, returning friends, and even had time to make new friends.

My long time wonderful friend Sue was visiting her daughter in Firenze, then spent a night with us before heading home. We had appertivo last night at Tuscher Cafe (Benita’s favorite!),

IMG_1515 - Version 2

blogginginitaly.com

then lunch there again today including Pici Amatriciana and a caprese salad.

IMG_2178

Pici Amatriciana da Tuscher Cafe in Cortona, blogginginitaly.com

Pici Amatriciana da Tuscher Cafe in Cortona, blogginginitaly.com

IMG_2182

blogginginitaly.com

Pici is like a thick spaghetti, made from flour and water only. It originated in the Siena area and is usually only found in Tuscany. The Amatriciana included speck, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes and cheese. Delicioso! And as usual, there’s nothing quite like an Italian tomato.

In between all the eating, we managed some walking on the steep streets of this lovely Etruscan town.

photo

And then just before heading home, we stopped in the piazza, and as usual, always something happening.

IMG_0027

blogginginitaly.com

Finally, I had to stop these kids as I had never seen so large a gelato. Glad I got to them before the dripping began!

IMG_2183

Ciao for now,

Judy

 

 

Cortona in Winter

12 Feb

I always wondered what Cortona would be like in winter, and now I know. The same wonderful people, the same beautiful town, albeit a little quieter, and the same feeling like I’m home…ok, also colder and sometimes rainy, but certainly warm compared to Chicago.

Benita and I took the train from Roma last Saturday and spent two wonderful days and nights in Cortona. It’s an incredible feeling to walk through the market or down a street and recognize so many faces. We shopped, walked, ate, drank, talked and laughed with our wonderful Cortonese friends.

I think the pictures and smiles tell the story!

IMG_0517
IMG_0032

IMG_0045
IMG_5942

IMG_1514
IMG_1515

IMG_0502IMG_0021

IMG_0028

IMG_1516

IMG_0012IMG_1513

IMG_1508
1620749_1463969057157710_2119425306_n

1620749_1463969063824376_411469088_n

1620749_1463969067157709_1148546742_n

Grazie ai nostri amici per un tempo meraviglioso!

And Len, this one is for you…un baccino from Daniela!

IMG_0794

Can’t wait to return this summer!

Ciao,

Judy

Preludio

14 Nov

Sometimes, we walk by a place, take note, and know we need to return. That was the case for us with Preludio, an elegant restaurant in Cortona. Unfortunately it took us three summers to eat there, but now it’s on our annual To-Do list.

IMG_0034

From the outside looking in, it seems as though this is a restaurant for celebrating an occasion – a birthday, an anniversary, etc.  Draped linens adorn the tables which are set with long stem wine glass and glowing candles.

IMG_0033

IMG_0033

Local friends Luca and Simone first introduced us to the restaurant and assured us that wanting great food is occasion enough.  Fortunately for us, they did all the ordering, but I must admit, we dined as if we were celebrating a big occasion. First things first, some incredible wine from the Bolgheri region of Italy.

IMG_0038

IMG_0035

IMG_0034

Then on to the primi. The attention to detail at Preludio is as incredible as the food, and the presentation of each dish is truly a work of art. I especially loved how our friends chose their favorite local and regional dishes to share with us. While I can’t remember the names of many of the dishes,  I do remember the taste.

IMG_0039

IMG_0043

IMG_0042

Escalope of foie gras sauce, lettuce, grapefruit and potatoes pumpkin

Not being such a foie gras aficionado, I was very content sitting next to this incredible fondue!

IMG_0041

For the secondo, we were treated to a Tuscan trio – two pastas with meat and one saffron porcini risotto with black truffle. I headed right for the risotto!

IMG_0044

Although two-thirds of my plate was still covered, our friends wanted us to share a Florentine steak. With no more room for dinner, we finally agreed on dessert which they insisted was mandatory. Well, feast your eyes!

IMG_0045

According to their website:

Preludio is always looking for new challenges posed by the evolution of taste, frequently revisited by combining creativity and continuity and adapting it to the current seasons. 

Do not ask us what is our main dish, because our ambition is to ensure that every dish that leaves our kitchen is new and unique…

Sometimes a night doesn’t need a special occasion to celebrate as the night itself becomes the occasion.  Our dinner at Preludio with our local friends was one of those nights. Grazie for a special night we will long remember.

IMG_0010

Just like in English, the name Preludio (prelude) means the beginning or an introduction. I’m so glad we’ve been introduced!

Ciao,

Judy

Postscript:

Len and I enjoyed the restaurant so much, we returned another evening for a “simpler” dinner of risotto, salmon, artichokes and potatoes. We’ll be back for more. 

Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, Cortona

20 Sep

Since it’s Friday, I was thinking about where I’d like to have dinner tonight. A simple choice would be Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, except for the fact that it is in Cortona and we are in Chicago. Oh, well, I can still think about what we might order after receiving a warm welcome from Alessandro, owner and always visible greeter.

img_4989

The entrance to the two-story restaurant is on Via Roma, and you can choose indoor or limited outdoor seating. According to its website, “It was the first restaurant opened in the medieval town of Cortona, around 1904.” The word cacciatore means “hunter” in Italian, and the restaurant serves typical Tuscan dishes and “specialities including grilled meat chianina, ribollita and pici with meat sauce,” a local pasta favorite.

IMG_4985

There’s an ample selection of wines to choose from, and the house wine is fine as well.

IMG_4997

The food is very good, and the atmosphere and staff are always warm and inviting.

Whether we stop in for pizza and a tomato salad

IMG_4987or enjoy a leisurely dinner, there is always a nice variety to choose from.

Tonight, perhaps we’d start with an antipasto of cheeses and freshly sliced meats…

IMG_0001or order pici with speck and tomatoes.

IMG_0637After, we’d choose sliced steak with rosemary

IMG_0004or delicious roasted chicken, (my favorite!)

IMG_0002some hot off-the-grill veggies

IMG_0639and of course, wonderful roasted potatoes!

IMG_0003So simple, so delicious.

And to top off a most satisfying dinner, why not a little tiramisu? (It’s so much better in Italy!)

IMG_0005

All in a night’s work, but then someone gets to do it. Just wish it could be us tonight!

Whether it’s just the two of us, or we are part of a large group, Ristorante IL CACCIATORE is one of our favorite go-to restaurants in Cortona.

Ciao,

Judy

Tuscher Caffé

22 Jun

One of our very favorite places in Cortona is Tuscher Caffé. The setting, food, ambiance, creativity, and especially the owners, make Tuscher a must when you visit Cortona. The beautiful caffé is open every day from 9-9, except Monday, serving delicious breakfast and lunch. In the evening, they serve drinks and very creative complimentary “happy hour”  hors d’oeuvres.

Massimo and Daniela, the proprietors, are among the hardest working people in Cortona. Most evident is their passion to preserve Italian fine culture in everything they do, as they make your visit most memorable. Just this week, as we were having lunch, three visiting American fine arts musicians entered and sat at the table next to us. As they looked around the beautiful two-story palace which houses the caffé, we heard one say, “Ah, la dolce vita!” We certainly agree.

Tuscher Caffé, www.caffetuschercortona.com, opened in 2003 in the beautiful Palazzo Ferretti on Via Nazionale. Massimo and Daniela named it after the building’s architect, Carl Marcus Tuscher, an architect and painter who worked in Italy from 1728-41. Seating is available inside and out in this international gathering place. In addition to having the good fortune to befriend the owners, we have met an array of interesting people from around the world, all who seem to have adopted Cortona as a second home.

Massimo, Daniela, sons Niccolo and Edoardo, and Lucky Luciano, the dog they found last year, are all on hand to make your visit memorable. See for yourself!  I’ve included a few photos from last year as well. (Touch bottom center of photos to progress at your own pace.)

Grazie, Massimo e Daniela, for your friendship and for sharing your wonderful Cortonese traditions with us.

Vi do un bacino, sempre!

Ciao,

Judy

This slideshow requires JavaScript.