Cortona Weddings

30 May

Local Wedding:

On a Sunday morning at 11 a.m., a horse drawn carriage carried a lovely bride and her father to S. Maria Nuova Church in Cortona. The church of Santa Maria Nuova was built in the mid sixteenth century by Giorgio Vasari.

Italian weddings are not always destined for Saturday, and this one reminded me that  Len and I were married on a Sunday as well.

The carriage arrived to the thunderous roar and applause of the waiting guests. We heard and watched this from the top of the hill until I decided I needed some photos. Most of the guests had filed into the Church by the time I ran down the hill, but I was able to see the proud father help his daughter out of the carriage.

The simplicity and loveliness of the bride, her father, a flower girl and ring bearer brought a smile to my face.

Although I couldn’t really see her face, I’m sure she was radiant as she entered the Church and approached her waiting fiancé.

Destination Wedding:

Others travel far to wed in Cortona. This union took place in the Palazzo Comunale, built in the early 1200’s. I believe the bride is American and the groom British, from a military family. The wedding attendees waited with anticipation, as well as many onlookers such as us, in front of the massive staircase.

The beautiful bride emerged from Via Nazionale to the waiting arms of her proud fiancé.

And before entering the Palazzo, they delighted their guests with a kiss.

Who needs movies?

Congratulations to all!

Ciao,

Judy

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Firenze

29 May

Just returned from two wonderful days in Firenze.

Yesterday, we took the 1.5-hour train ride from the Cortona/Camucia station, dropped our luggage at a small B&B,

Ricotta fresca

and headed to Piazza della Repubblica for lunch at Le Giubbe Rosse. The pizza was delicious and the fresh ricotta and tomatoes… simple and delicious!

From our table, I could see the balcony of the room at the Savoy where we celebrated my parents’ 50th anniversary. On either side of the balcony is a statue – one male, one female. When I see them, I always think my parents are smiling down at us, happy that we are still celebrating their lives and the legacies they left us.

Savoy Hotel, balcony upper right

After lunch,  we walked to Piazza del Duomo, Firenze’s historical center containing the Cathedral, the Baptistery (correct spelling!) and the Campanile, or bell tower.  The magnificent façades consist of an intricate pattern of green, white and reddish pink tiles, which you can see better if you click on Benita’s photo.

Duomo facade

As summer months go, May is definitely a tourist’s paradise, especially on Mondays. Crowds are lighter as kids are still in school and the big galleries are closed, so fewer tour groups crowd the city.

That said, we were able to walk right into the Cathedral, also known as Santa Maria del Fiore. The cathedral’s dome, engineered by Filippo Brunelleschi and built between 1420-1436, is considered the most impressive feature. Benita is able to stitch shots together, providing this impressive view of the dome and altar.

Duomo altar and dome

The  Baptistery is one of the oldest buildings in Florence. Until the 19th century, all Catholics in the city were baptized in the octagon-shaped Baptistery. Some of the more notable baptisms include Dante and members of the Medici family. The bronze doors of the Baptistery include copies of 28 reliefs depicting scenes from the Bible. The originals are in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo.

Today we had reservations (no waiting in long lines!) for the Uffizi Gallery, world renown for magnificent works of art and the Accademia, home of Michelangelo’s David. So much art and culture in one city…truly overwhelming, each and every visit.  Both galleries now prohibit any photography, but did not years ago when I was a student in Italy. I am reminded once again to pull out the hundreds of slides I took back them and convert them to current media.

On a sad note, there was another earthquake today in northern Italy. When we were at the train station returning to Cortona, they were talking about the difficulty getting to and around Bologna. Fortunately, Firenze and its treasures were not affected.

On a lighter note, at the exit of the Accademia in the garden across from the bookstore, there is a David that can be photographed. I must admit that after being in the trance that David causes, I felt the outside David was a bit sacrilegious. But since this David is provided by the museum, I guess you should  see it!

Also at the Accademia!

A wonderful trip!

Ciao,

Judy

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Happy Memorial Day!

28 May

Last summer, we were here for the 4th of July and I was determined to find an American flag. I’m happy to show this photo once again.

Today, I want to include a special note and link I received from my niece, Loren. “Nice reminder on Memorial Day of the good in the world and reasons to be optimistic about and for future generations.”

Good in the world and optimism…important things to think about, especially today.

The Editor’s note below describes the link, which is well worth the read.

Editor’s note: Fareed Zakaria recently delivered the commencement address at Harvard. While the audience was graduates, the message could apply to a great many of us, so we’ve reprinted a modified version below.

And finally, courtesy of Benita, a magnificent tribute in Cortona dedicated to those who have served. The bronze statue, by Cortonese sculptor Delfo Paoletti (1895-1975),  graces the entrance to the public gardens and depicts a soldier being lifted in the arms of an angel.  Our thoughts are also with those who continue to serve.

Cortona War Memorial

Ciao!

Judy

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Saturday To Do List

26 May

1. Skip Italian Class: (note to my Italian teacher and classmates): Buongiorno a tutti! Mi dispiace io non sono con voi, ma devo ammettere, preferisco essere qui. Anche se non ho fatto i compiti della scorsa settimana, Giovanna sarebbe fiero di come ho praticare ogni giorno, per tutto il giorno. Ci vediamo in autunno. Ciao, Giuditta

2. Go to Market: Items for lunch for Trattoria Gingerella: let the pictures speak for themselves!

At the market

Roses from our garden

Roasted chicken, tomatoes and mozzarella, melon and prosciutto, antipasto and vino

3. Take random photos:

Benita and Sarah

Real mozarella!

Mike and the original Fiat 500

A 1910 wardrobe trunk

4. Dinner at Trattoria Toscana: http://www.trattoriatoscana.eu/

Goat cheese with balsamic

Gnocchi with leak and tomato

Tagliatelle con porcini

A wonderful day!

Ciao, Judy

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Home Again!

25 May

Cortona. We arrived yesterday, tired but invigorated and anxious to see people from last year.  Ti ricordi di noi? we asked, wondering if they remembered us. The warm embraces, big smiles and wonderful double cheek kisses let us know they did. I learned recently that the first kiss goes on the left cheek…funny I never knew that!

Benita L-front), Judy, Len, Michael, Sarah

Sarah, Davide, Benita

We had dinner at Taverna Pane e Vino. Unlike last year, when it was just Len and me, this trip we have a cast of characters including son Michael, daughter Benita,  and her friend Sarah. Benita and Sarah are both minoring in photography and will graciously lend some of their wonderful photos to my posts.

Also, a photo with our server Davide… the girls attract a lot of attention!

Afterward, heading out for gelato, we bumped into a group of professional photographers we had met earlier. They are doing several photo shoots throughout Italy for a travel company…a dream job! They answered my Mac converter questions and I provided some info about Cortona. In Cortona, strangers seem to easily become friends.

Clay (L-front), Cornelius, Marco, Barney
Dining al fresco on Via Nazionale

Talk about feeling home again. This morning, while the others slept, Len and I went to Trattoria Taconi for our usual morning cappuccino. This is the five-table teeny restaurant where we enjoyed cappuccino each morning last year. They actually only serve pranz0, or lunch, and you eat whatever Graziella is preparing for the day, on crisp white linen table cloths, of course. Yesterday we stopped in just to say hello. This morning, while having cappuccino, I noticed four of the five tables had reservation signs on them. I asked Angelino if something special was going on, and he pointed to the largest of the tables and said, per voi…for you! Of course, a table set for five. They were expecting us for lunch. Home again!

Graziella preparing our lunch

Pasta ragu

Lingering at Trattoria Taconi (panorama courtesy of Benita)

Happy to report that the sun is shining and we are all rested and ready for adventure.

Ciao,

Judy

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Leaving on a Jet Plane

23 May

“All my bags are packed and I’m ready to go”…

These lyrics bring back such fond memories…a picture forever burned in my memory. A large group of very hippie (not hip!) looking kids, mostly 21, were at Rome FCO airport waiting to board planes bound for the USA after having spent our junior year at Loyola’s Rome Center. We Campers, as we had fondly dubbed ourselves, were exhausted, sad to be leaving but anxious to reunite with family and friends stateside.

Sitting in a large group on the floor, a few people pulled out their guitars and we started singing Leaving on a Jet Plane, a song written by John Denver and made famous by Peter, Paul and Mary.

“Don’t know when I’ll be back again” was a sad lyric too true for many of us. Personally, it took 25 years before I returned but since then, I’ve had the great fortune of being in Italy many times.

To paraphrase a few of the lyrics, as I sit here, my bags are packed and I’m ready to go. The taxi driver’s not blowing his horn yet, but will be soon. And unlike the song, I’m excited to be leaving on a jet plane and returning to Cortona for our next adventure. So, till I resume blogging again, which should be in a few days, arriverderci!

For those of you humming, here’s the link…

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa3h3pnhg8s

Ciao!

Judy


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Trattoria Toscana

14 Apr

I just received the renewal notice for my blog site and must confess that I hadn’t looked at it in some time. I knew I’d resume writing late this May, when we return to Italia, but the notice caused me to read some of last summer’s posts. Doing so brought a smile to my face and also the realization that there are several posts I never had time to finish. In the next few weeks, I hope to be sharing them.

We are eagerly anticipating our 2012 trip, a return to Cortona and the friends we made there last summer. In the meantime, hope you enjoy reading about Trattoria Toscana. When I close my eyes, I can still smell the spaghetti con porcini!

From 2011 Summer

One of our favorite restaurants in Cortona is Trattoria Toscana. The owner Sara, chef  Santi and waiter Enzo are all very accommodating and fun! This restaurant is on Via Dardano, just down the street from our house on Via Mazzuoli. They exhibit local art work, paintings and photographs on their walls – one of the pieces shown by Len below. We have tried the fix prix menu as well as a la carte, and all have been delicious. Tonight we couldn’t resist spaghetti con funghi porcini freschi, or spaghetti with fresh porcini mushrooms…truly a local favorite!

One of the wonders of Cortona is the close proximity yet efficiency of pedestrians and motorized vehicles. During dinner, we realized that something was going on in the main piazza at the end of the street, so all vehicles had to make a sharp right turn on the street directly perpendicular to the Trattoria. The old cobblestone streets are so narrow we feared a few tourists might be crushed or a few cars might join our table for dinner, but alas, no problem for the Cortonese.

Ciao,

Judy

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The Morning After.6

15 Aug

Before we turned to leave, Marisa said one more thing to me. I smiled and nodded my head yes.

You may recall this as the ending to our meeting with the ladies. When I smiled and nodded yes, I was actually accepting Marisa’s invitation for breakfast the next day! Around nine the next morning, we walked down the long drive to their house.  I think Len was about to ask “Are you sure you understood her?” when they came around the house waving at us.

We exchanged hugs and buongiornos and a few minutes later they emerged with the largest croissants we had ever seen. They were filled with various jams and cremes and accompanied by rich espresso. Heavenly.

Once again, conversation flowed easily…we were like old friends now enjoying breakfast together, sharing our plans for the day, and soaking in what the experience had to offer. There were times I think all four of us were talking – and hearing – at the same time,  a great cultural skill if you happen to be from an Italian family.

We spent a lot of time talking about their home in Naples, a city where Len and I want to spend more time and also the birthplace of my maternal grandparents. Before long, they were inviting us to visit them in Naples! We exchanged phone numbers and mentally added this to our bucket list. Around 10:30, we finally bid our farewells. Lots of smiles, hugs, and promises to meet again. Oh, how we only hope!

After we left the ladies, we met with Emanuela, shared our stories about our dinner and our time with the ladies, then ordered some Pietranera to be shipped home. Each time we open a bottle we’ll relive these marvelous days and think fondly of our new friends.

Arrivederci ladies, and grazie for the most amazing memories!

Ciao!

Judy and Len

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The Dinner on the Hill.5

13 Aug

website

There is a paradox about many of the hill towns in Tuscany. You can clearly see them from a distance, yet they disappear as you approach. Such is the case with Sant’Angelo in Colle. Marisa, Maria and Emanuela had all recommended that we drive to Il Leccio for dinner. Not far, they told us. Just turn left, then right, then keep driving.

So after a most enjoyable day, beginning with our tour, then the tasting and finally our chance meeting and subsequent two-hour conversation with the ladies, we headed for dinner at Il Leccio. The restaurant, we were told, offered the highest and most amazing views of Montalcino and we were hungry.

We set out for what we thought was a 5-10 minute drive. We drove through the winding hills, and with each turn, expected to see the restaurant yet all we saw was a town in the distance. About 20 minutes into the trip, with the sun setting and our stomachs unhappy, we needed to decide to continue or turn back. Oh, well, we had come this far…

Finally, up the highway, we saw a sign. We were in another town! The sign read Sant’Angelo in Colle. Surely they would have told us the restaurant was in another town, but to them, I guess it’s all Montalcino.  Onward we proceeded and eventually saw an arrow pointing to the left and the name Il Leccio. Finally! But not so fast, impatient ones, for ahead of us was a cobblestone street with a pebbled parking area on the left and no sign of a town. We parked and saw what appeared to be a few locals. “Il Leccio?” we asked, and in the typical Italian manner, they replied “Si, sempre diritto.” To Italians, everything is always straight ahead.

Ok, where is the town, where is the restaurant, where are we???? We started to climb some very steep streets…we were in the wall of a city but where was the city? At each intersection we randomly chose a direction.

After an amazingly steep climb,  we heard some voices. Yeah! We actually split and ascended the hill from separate directions. At the top was a piazza, a few restaurants, a church, and the magnificent view. This was the city we had seen from the distance.

“Do you have reservations?” they asked at Il Leccio. Stay calm, Judy, after all this, we are going to eat here. There were several large parties, but one small table outside that was surely meant for us.

We learned that Sant’Angelo in Colle is the highest growing area of Montalcino, 400+ meters above sea level. Although the sun had set, the moonlight and stars cast a glow on the hillside, the night was brilliant, and the view spectacular as promised. We shared pasta and salad by candlelight under the stars and simply ordered a bottle of sparkling water as we had ample wine waiting for us at the villa. A storybook ending to a most amazing day.

Ciao!

Judy

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The Owner.4

4 Aug

“My name is Judy,” I explained in my best Italian. “My husband and I are guests at the villa tonight.”

“Oh, they didn’t tell me anyone was staying here,” she replied in Italian, looking from me to her friend.

“I recognize you from your website – your face and smile!” I blurted out as it struck me I knew this lovely stranger’s face.

She smiled at me and we all relaxed enough that she invited me for coffee.

“Let me get my husband and I’ll be right back.” I didn’t want Len to miss this.

But back “at the ranch” when I told Len the ladies had invited us to coffee, he looked at me like I had two heads. “Let me get this straight…it’s 5:30 PM, and I’m going to leave the comfort of “our villa” and this wonderful array of wines to accompany you to have coffee with two women I’ve never met and not understand a word of the conversation.

“Right.” And then I smiled in a way that wives know how to do.

We walked down the long drive and I knew Len couldn’t believe we were actually going to visit with the owner of the estate. After all, he was the one who had done the research and found the estate after so many years.

We sat on their large, inviting patio overlooking a huge crystal blue pool on one side and the glorious sun laden hills of Montalcino on the other. They served us dark rich espresso they had just brewed. Marisa Centolani, her husband Giovanni Peluso, and their children own and operate the estate. He comes from Naples, where they still live much of the year. Maria, the lighter haired lady, is Marisa’s cousin who accompanied her on this trip as Giovanni was in Paris on business.

We talked about everything…our families, our travels, places in Italy we’ve visited and those we need to visit, politics, the state of the world, life in Italy, Italian musicians, the difference between the food, pizza, bread, etc., from north to south, the winery, the age and history of the buildings, Italian culture, and living life to its fullest. The conversation flowed easily between Italian and English, with me interpreting and everyone nodding, talking and engaged in the moment. This truly was the highlight of our trip. It’s impossible to describe the warmth and loveliness of this experience…four people, two sets of strangers, worlds apart yet brought together because of a shared passion for life in Italy at its best…no noise, no traffic, no tourists, no graffiti, no shops.

After two hours, we invited them to join us for dinner. They had already prepared food for themselves but encouraged us to head to Il Leccio at the highest point for the view and great food. After a round of hugs and photos, we expressed our heartfelt thanks and bid each other farewell. Before we turned to leave, Marisa said one more thing to me. I smiled and nodded my head yes.

Ciao!

Judy

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