Archive | Tuscany RSS feed for this section

Cortona Update and Random Event

28 May

Day 6:

Thanks for all your blog comments. It has been difficult to write and respond as we have not had internet in the house till today. Hopefully, it will continue to work!

Summer has yet to find its way to Cortona. Locals are sporting down jackets and boots, while the tourists walk around in their flip-flops, shorts and sweats, shivering while huddled under umbrellas. Yet always with a smile. Although we have more summer than fall clothes with us, we are nonetheless keeping warm. Eating and sampling various vini also helps!

About 10:30 last night, on our walk home through Piazza Republicca, we heard a familiar sound. Einstein, as I call him, had just begun to grace the almost empty piazza with the sounds of his flute. We stopped to listen and visit, as did others passing by. One of the things we love about Cortona is that there is always something happening, whether planned or random.

As I am finally learning to add some video to my blog, here’s a short piece from last night.

Today, we stopped at Tacconi Trattoria on Via Dardano to see friends Graziella and Angelo and to enjoy pappardelle con ragu. Amazing how delicious pasta warms cold feet…that and the pair of long socks I bought next door!

IMG_0447

IMG_0448

Wow, there is a strange bright light coming through the window…can it be the sun?

Better run!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: ,

Taverna Pane e Vino, Cortona

27 May

Pane e Vino. Bread and Wine. Food and Italy. Judy and Len. Some things just go together.

So what are these, you ask? Cheese stuffed gnocchi with fresh sautéed artichokes and sun dried tomatoes. And yes, they are as good as they look!

IMG_0002

A sampling of bruschetta

IMG_0011

and some thinly sliced zucchini with cannellini beans, shaved pecorino and lettuce.

IMG_0006

Taverna Pane e Vino is located in Piazza Signorelli in Cortona. The covered entrance (beyond the arched glass door) serves as an open market in the morning which disappears later in the day to become the entrance to this local restaurant at night.

IMG_0001

The owner, Arnaldo, and Len talked about a few events they will be hosting this summer.

IMG_0012

All is a day’s work!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: ,

Anticipation!

7 Apr

With the calendar reading April, I am filled with anticipation. As I look out the window, or take walks, my eyes are surrounded with the signs of spring…plants pushing aside their winter hibernation as they eagerly seek sunshine; trees coming to life and showing off their annual budding ritual.

IMG_0402

IMG_6991

In addition to spring, I am also anticipating our return to Cortona. According to local friend Patricia, spring is also in the air.

“April 3rd was a fine day.  It wasn’t very warm but the sun was shining and it felt like spring.  This made everybody particularly happy because of an Italian proverb:

Terzo Aprilante, quaranta dì durante, 

or as some say,

Terzo aquilante, quaranta dì durante.

That means that if it rains on April 3rd, it will rain for 40 days!  After all the rain we have had, nobody could bear the thought of that, so the sunny day was a great relief!”

Sure hope the proverb holds true!

So, on this sunny Sunday, a few other things I look forward to in Cortona:

Getting back to piazza life –

IMG_4982

IMG_4253

IMG_4677

Taking in the incredible vistas –

IMG_4295

 Marveling at the architecture –

IMG_4296

 

IMG_4941

Strolling the local markets –

IMG_4280

IMG_4182

Enjoying simply delicious food –

IMG_4722 IMG_4572

Sharing some incredible vino –

IMG_4213

Being immersed in “Italian class” every day –

IMG_6435

And after walking for miles, sometimes just hanging out with Len in Piazza Gharibaldi, watching tourists come and go, and feeling, if only for a short time, that we belong to this little piece of heaven – 

IMG_4745

Perfetto!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: ,

Lucignano

8 Feb

In the grey and cold days of winter, it’s fun to think about some of the beautiful hill towns of Tuscany. Lucignano, a remarkably preserved medieval walled village, is one of those towns. Laid out in elliptical rings, this beautiful town sits 414 metres above sea level and offers its visitors a trip back in time.

IMG_5963

Although Lucignano sits between Siena and Arezzo, it came under Florentine control in the 1500s, when a great deal of construction ensued. Today, one can still see the Puccini’s Fortress; Vasari’s 1568 sanctuary of Madonna della Querca; the Cappucini convent, c.1580; and several churches including Misercordia, c.1582, and Chiesa della Collegiata, c.1594.  In addition, the Museo Civico offers many artistic treasures including the L’albero della vita, or tree of life, a gilded and jeweled tree holding a crucified figure.

IMG_5976

IMG_5970

IMG_5961

IMG_5971

IMG_5972

IMG_5983

IMG_5979

In the village’s website, http://www.comune.lucignano.ar.it,  Lucignano is described as “a pearl of the valdichiana, a small village that represents one of the more extraordinary examples of medieval urban planning for its system of elliptic rings…” Today, the village continues its agricultural and artisan traditions and produces products ranging from olive oil and honey to ceramics and gold jewelry. In addition, should you wish to purchase inlaid furniture or have a piece in need of repair, the skilled artists of Lucignano are ready to oblige.

One of my favorite English signs was this:

IMG_5969

Nice People – Is that referring to the owners or a requirement for entry? It was closed so we didn’t find out.

And this wonderful Italian thought:

IMG_5959

Wine is the poetry of the earth…I’ll toast to that!

Early Sunday morning, the men all gather…

IMG_5964

IMG_5966

While the ladies smell the flowers and pick fresh basil for the feasts they are preparing…

IMG_5977

IMG_5978

A lovely way to spend a day, enjoying food, friends and family, and of course, the poetry of the earth. Just wish some of those nice people had invited us to dinner!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , , , , , ,

More About those Lanterns

11 Jan

Some updates from yesterday’s post:

After Patricia sent me the originals details, including that the lanterns were made of tissue paper, I did some research on them. The ones I found were fire resistant, but apparently not so true for the ones launched in Cortona. Per Patricia, the following updates:

The lanterns weren’t fire resistant at all! In fact if you weren’t careful they caught fire before taking off, and some did just that.  

Also, it is the second time Cortona has had these lanterns but the first time wasn’t last Christmas.  It was meant to be for Valentine’s Day, 2012, and held  on the nearest Saturday to 14th February, but Cortona was under snow so it was postponed and done in March to welcome Spring instead.

 

Chinese lanterns Cortona 29 12 12 4

IMG_1693

So, who knows which season the next lantern launch will celebrate? Only the weather can tell for sure!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , , , ,

Lanterns above Cortona

11 Jan

We often think of traditions as steeped in history, handed down from generation to generation. Yet every day, every year, and in any place, a new tradition can be born. Such is the case in Cortona, where a new tradition has begun. This event was scheduled for December 26, but a rainy night forced a three-day postponement.

On December 29, a lovely Saturday evening, many gathered in Piazza della Repubblica for the second annual lighting of the lanterns.

Chinese lanterns Cortona 29 12 12 8

People from neighboring Arezzo, dressed as Father Christmas, organized the event and provided music and entertainment for the delighted children and all who joined in the celebration.

The details and accompanying photos are from Patricia, my local friend, who continues to enlighten me with winter happenings in Cortona.

Each lantern is about 32” tall by 22” wide and made of fire resistant paper. A fuel cell (looks like a piece of coated cardboard) is included and attached to a wire frame at the bottom of the lantern.

Chinese lanterns Cortona 29 12 12 6

At 6 PM, there was a countdown. Together, people lit the fuel cells, released the lanterns, and, of course, made a wish. I so prefer wishes to resolutions!

Chinese lanterns Cortona 29 12 12 7

Quite a number of people, some local and many from regions throughout Italy, filled the normally quiet- in- winter piazza that special evening and watched wide-eyed as the sky above the piazza glowed with floating lights.

Chinese lanterns Cortona 29 12 12 2

No matter from which region they hailed, those gathered enjoyed a spectacular evening and helped carry on a young tradition.

Weather permitting, the lanterns can fly about 1/3 mile – an amazing sight for sure. Once their flames die, the lanterns float slowly to the ground. And while the flames may die, the young tradition continues and Patricia’s lovely photos provide an incredible image that will linger for a long time.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , , ,

Cortona above the fog!

22 Dec

One of the most beautiful things about Cortona is that it is situated on a hillside at an altitude of over 1600 feet. This elevation provides amazing views of the valley below, called the Valdichiana. Looking out from Piazza Garibaldi, you can see Camucia, the town at the base, as well as Lake Trasimeno, the historical scene of Hannibal’s’ ambush of the Roman army in 217 BC.

IMG_6425

IMG_4840

Even on a cloudy day, the views are endless and incredible, but the winter views sent to me by my friend Pat were totally unexpected, and in her word, spectacular! My photos from last summer and Pat’s from last week were taken from the same vantage point, Piazza Garibaldi.

Valdichiana in the fog - 18 Dec 2012 4

Valdichiana in the fog - 18 Dec 2012 2

Valdichiana in the fog - 18 Dec 2012 1

Valdichiana in the fog - 18 Dec 2012 3

As Pat explains, “It happens quite often in the winter.  Camucia is in thick fog, and as you drive up the hill to Cortona, you suddenly come out of it into a different world.  It’s like being in an airplane above the clouds. Spectacular!”

With gratitude to Pat for sharing, truly spectacular, indeed!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , , , ,

The Owner.4

4 Aug

“My name is Judy,” I explained in my best Italian. “My husband and I are guests at the villa tonight.”

“Oh, they didn’t tell me anyone was staying here,” she replied in Italian, looking from me to her friend.

“I recognize you from your website – your face and smile!” I blurted out as it struck me I knew this lovely stranger’s face.

She smiled at me and we all relaxed enough that she invited me for coffee.

“Let me get my husband and I’ll be right back.” I didn’t want Len to miss this.

But back “at the ranch” when I told Len the ladies had invited us to coffee, he looked at me like I had two heads. “Let me get this straight…it’s 5:30 PM, and I’m going to leave the comfort of “our villa” and this wonderful array of wines to accompany you to have coffee with two women I’ve never met and not understand a word of the conversation.

“Right.” And then I smiled in a way that wives know how to do.

We walked down the long drive and I knew Len couldn’t believe we were actually going to visit with the owner of the estate. After all, he was the one who had done the research and found the estate after so many years.

We sat on their large, inviting patio overlooking a huge crystal blue pool on one side and the glorious sun laden hills of Montalcino on the other. They served us dark rich espresso they had just brewed. Marisa Centolani, her husband Giovanni Peluso, and their children own and operate the estate. He comes from Naples, where they still live much of the year. Maria, the lighter haired lady, is Marisa’s cousin who accompanied her on this trip as Giovanni was in Paris on business.

We talked about everything…our families, our travels, places in Italy we’ve visited and those we need to visit, politics, the state of the world, life in Italy, Italian musicians, the difference between the food, pizza, bread, etc., from north to south, the winery, the age and history of the buildings, Italian culture, and living life to its fullest. The conversation flowed easily between Italian and English, with me interpreting and everyone nodding, talking and engaged in the moment. This truly was the highlight of our trip. It’s impossible to describe the warmth and loveliness of this experience…four people, two sets of strangers, worlds apart yet brought together because of a shared passion for life in Italy at its best…no noise, no traffic, no tourists, no graffiti, no shops.

After two hours, we invited them to join us for dinner. They had already prepared food for themselves but encouraged us to head to Il Leccio at the highest point for the view and great food. After a round of hugs and photos, we expressed our heartfelt thanks and bid each other farewell. Before we turned to leave, Marisa said one more thing to me. I smiled and nodded my head yes.

Ciao!

Judy

Newer Entries →