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Italian Hill Towns

7 Jun

Just returned from a two-day tour of the Italian countryside in Tuscany and Umbria where the drive was as lovely as the three ancient towns we visited.

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Our first stop was Citta di Castello, meaning town of the castle. Although there actually is no castle, there are stately old buildings and monuments, and of course, in the “larger” cities as least, a duomo or cathedral. The area was an ancient Roman port on the Tiber River and some archaeological remains of the port are visible in the southern part of the historical center.

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Eliza, at Antico Canonico where we spent the night, was most helpful in telling us about the city as well as other nearby towns which we visited the next day. Our “hotel” was originally built years ago as a home for priests. While the door to each unit is the original “cell” door, the apartment behind is simple, ample and clean. Yes, this is our apartment door!

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In the afternoon, we enjoyed  watching the men’s bocce tournament. And in the evening, we strolled the town with the locals.

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The next morning, our first destination was the lovely town of Citerna in Umbria, a tiny hilltop town which boasts of Etruscan and Roman origins and is ranked among the 100 most beautiful villages in Italy. It is the northernmost town in Umbria and while it was severely damaged during WWII, you’d  never know it today.

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The panoramic views as we left town were spectacular!

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From there we headed back to Tuscany to a town called  Anghiari. At first, this appeared to be a “modern” town until we came upon the ancient hilltop walled city. Anghiari is famous for a 1440 battle between the towns of Florence and Milan, and even inspired Leonardo da Vinci to create a fresco in Palazzo Vecchio. Although the original fresco has disappeared,  a sketch of it by Peter Paul Rubens is still in existence.

Peter Paul Rubens' copy of the lost Battle of ...

Peter Paul Rubens’ copy of the lost Battle of Anghiari. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The ancient town is filled with steep, winding streets, and on one of them, we came across a wonderful shop called Carabattole. Sitting inside was Marinella, from whom we learned about tombolo, an art not practiced in the US.

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I bought a lovely pair of earrings similar to the ones shown above. Afterward, we enjoyed a simple but wonderful lunch at a local Cantina.

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When we returned to Cortona and talked to some of the locals about our trip, many had not even heard of tiny Citerna. How lucky for us that  Eliza directed us there, as well as to Anghiari. Continuing to follow the road less travelled without agenda always brings us wonderful surprises and new memories as well as the opportunity to share them with you.

Ciao,

Judy

Cortona above the fog!

22 Dec

One of the most beautiful things about Cortona is that it is situated on a hillside at an altitude of over 1600 feet. This elevation provides amazing views of the valley below, called the Valdichiana. Looking out from Piazza Garibaldi, you can see Camucia, the town at the base, as well as Lake Trasimeno, the historical scene of Hannibal’s’ ambush of the Roman army in 217 BC.

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Even on a cloudy day, the views are endless and incredible, but the winter views sent to me by my friend Pat were totally unexpected, and in her word, spectacular! My photos from last summer and Pat’s from last week were taken from the same vantage point, Piazza Garibaldi.

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As Pat explains, “It happens quite often in the winter.  Camucia is in thick fog, and as you drive up the hill to Cortona, you suddenly come out of it into a different world.  It’s like being in an airplane above the clouds. Spectacular!”

With gratitude to Pat for sharing, truly spectacular, indeed!

Ciao,

Judy

5000 Views…Grazie!!!

14 Jul

WOW! Today blogginginitaly.com reached 5000 all time views! Not bad for a one year old site that started as a way to share our travels with family and a few friends. I’m humbled and honored to have so many readers and love all the feedback and comments. Just this week, I heard from a lady in Florida who will be spending a month in Cortona in the fall. She said the blog really helped her, and that is so rewarding for me. So, a huge thank you to all who have read and enjoyed the posts, especially Len and Benita! Stay tuned for more to come. For now, however, although a picture can’t truly capture the beauty, I thought I’d share a few of my favorite vistas of Tuscany. To enlarge, just click on the photo.

Ciao and Grazie!

Judy

The Dinner on the Hill.5

13 Aug

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There is a paradox about many of the hill towns in Tuscany. You can clearly see them from a distance, yet they disappear as you approach. Such is the case with Sant’Angelo in Colle. Marisa, Maria and Emanuela had all recommended that we drive to Il Leccio for dinner. Not far, they told us. Just turn left, then right, then keep driving.

So after a most enjoyable day, beginning with our tour, then the tasting and finally our chance meeting and subsequent two-hour conversation with the ladies, we headed for dinner at Il Leccio. The restaurant, we were told, offered the highest and most amazing views of Montalcino and we were hungry.

We set out for what we thought was a 5-10 minute drive. We drove through the winding hills, and with each turn, expected to see the restaurant yet all we saw was a town in the distance. About 20 minutes into the trip, with the sun setting and our stomachs unhappy, we needed to decide to continue or turn back. Oh, well, we had come this far…

Finally, up the highway, we saw a sign. We were in another town! The sign read Sant’Angelo in Colle. Surely they would have told us the restaurant was in another town, but to them, I guess it’s all Montalcino.  Onward we proceeded and eventually saw an arrow pointing to the left and the name Il Leccio. Finally! But not so fast, impatient ones, for ahead of us was a cobblestone street with a pebbled parking area on the left and no sign of a town. We parked and saw what appeared to be a few locals. “Il Leccio?” we asked, and in the typical Italian manner, they replied “Si, sempre diritto.” To Italians, everything is always straight ahead.

Ok, where is the town, where is the restaurant, where are we???? We started to climb some very steep streets…we were in the wall of a city but where was the city? At each intersection we randomly chose a direction.

After an amazingly steep climb,  we heard some voices. Yeah! We actually split and ascended the hill from separate directions. At the top was a piazza, a few restaurants, a church, and the magnificent view. This was the city we had seen from the distance.

“Do you have reservations?” they asked at Il Leccio. Stay calm, Judy, after all this, we are going to eat here. There were several large parties, but one small table outside that was surely meant for us.

We learned that Sant’Angelo in Colle is the highest growing area of Montalcino, 400+ meters above sea level. Although the sun had set, the moonlight and stars cast a glow on the hillside, the night was brilliant, and the view spectacular as promised. We shared pasta and salad by candlelight under the stars and simply ordered a bottle of sparkling water as we had ample wine waiting for us at the villa. A storybook ending to a most amazing day.

Ciao!

Judy

The Villa.3

1 Aug

After the wine tasting, and since we had been given the keys to the house, I decided to explore. Our villa was actually a 19th century farmhouse that has been restored to serve the needs of the estate. Generally, the only guests that stay in the house are business partners, friends or relatives, and not so often individuals like us.

The first floor has several comfortable dining and sitting rooms with a lovely color scheme of  yellow and blue. Large windows fill the rooms with light and reveal the valley below.

Upstairs there are two apartments and our room. The ceiling in our room, like so many it Italy, features large beams in an interesting pattern. Looking at the beams, I was hoping they would not choose our stay to fall on the bed.

When I finished my inside tour, I left Len to stand guard over the bottles and ventured outside to take some pictures. Across from our villa was a small building that housed another apartment. We never saw the inside but it seemed so ancient yet inviting.

At the end of a long drive, but still on the estate, was another home that belonged to the family. We had been told that Mrs. Centolani was in town for a few days at her home. “She doesn’t speak English, so if you happen to see her,  just wave as she is very friendly.”

As I stood at the top of the drive taking pictures, two ladies emerged from behind the house, stopped at the gate, and asked loudly, “chi è, chi è?” Hmmm…I hope my Italian will be good enough to explain who I am and why I’m on their property!

Ciao,

Judy

Some Cortona Photos

24 Jun

Went back to the two Cortona Piazzas to take some photos. Also, the street cleaner went by this morning…a pretty interesting vehicle!

We took a bus ride to Arezzo yesterday and really had an opportunity to see small towns along the way. Perhaps the best part was being with the natives, especially the very friendly bus drivers. It is obvious that for them, maneuvering through the hills of the Cortona region is a profession they take seriously. They are proud of their skills and it shows! We sat in the front seat and were wide eyed as we wound around the curves with ease. We also were able to pick their more than friendly brains!

Ended the night with an interesting dinner…but for now, off to a very special lunch!

Ciao,

Judy