Archive | Italian History RSS feed for this section

More Rome

18 Feb

My last two days in Rome brought some incredible experiences. I spent Tuesday with Roman locals, the parents of a friend from Austin. Giovanna picked me up Tuesday morning and we did a whirlwind tour around Rome. We began the day at The Church of Santa Sabina on the Aventine Hill in Rome, the oldest surviving Roman basilica.

IMG_1520

IMG_1519

It is famous for its cypress doors, which may date to the early 5th century when the church was built, and are said to contain the first depiction of the crucifixion of Jesus.

IMG_1522

From there we drove to the Villa del Priorato di Malta, home to the Grand Priory in Rome of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, which remains a sovereign entity. IMG_1528

The Villa may be best known for a keyhole in the door

IMG_1527

through which you can clearly see Saint Peter’s Basilica, far across the city. The first photo is from my phone; the second shows exactly what you see through the keyhole.

IMG_1526

220px-StPetersBasilica_Keyhole_2

wiki photo

From there, we saw part of the original Roman Wall called the Servian Wall, sections of which are still visible in various locations around Rome. The Servian Wall was a defensive barrier constructed around the city of Rome  in the early 4th century BC.

IMG_1532

Next on to lunch at my “guide’s” home. What a thrill it is for me to be invited into the home of local Romans and share in their passion for all things Italian. I was introduced to Giovanna’s husband and together we shared wonderful conversation and the most delicious lunch, beginning with Champaign in the drawing-room.

IMG_1534

From there, we moved to the dining room and were treated to Spaghetti con vongole

IMG_1540

IMG_1537

Sicilian artichokes and a rolled meat and cheese dish (sorry I don’t know the name!)

IMG_1541

IMG_1542A beautiful vegetable terrine

IMG_1543

Fennel saladIMG_1544

and homemade apple torta!

IMG_1545

IMG_1546

We conversed easily in both Italian and English and spent a great deal of time talking about places and treasures to visit in Italy.

After lunch, more of my tour. First up was a ride along Appia Antica, or as you may know it, the Appian Way. IMG_1550

IMG_1552

From there we drove to the Pyramid of Cestius, built around 18BC-12BC as a tomb for magistrate Gaius Cestius. At the time it was built, it lay in the open countryside as tombs were not permitted within the city walls.

IMG_1557The pyramid was incorporated into the Aurelian Walls, close to Porta San Paolo.

IMG_1554

Up next, La Bocca della Verità, aka The Mouth of Truth. This ancient Roman marble disc displays a carving of a man-like face and is thought to have been part of a first century fountain or even a manhole cover. Legend has it that if you tell a lie, and put your hand in the mouth, it will be bitten off. So be warned! During the 17th century, it was placed in the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the church which is home to relics of St. Valentine.

IMG_1562

And finally, on to ancient temples before heading home.IMG_1563

IMG_1564

What an amazing day I had, with my ever hospitable and knowledgeable private tour guide and now new friend.

And to think we did all that in this:

IMG_1565

Giovanna, grazie per una giornata meravigliosa e una ricorderò sempre!

That was Tuesday, and I still had one day left in Rome. What better thing to do than attend a Papal audience.  So that I did, Wednesday morning, along with about 12,000 others, but who’s counting!

IMG_1582

IMG_1578

IMG_1575

IMG_1583

Arrivederci Roma once again. You never fail to amaze. Till next time.

Ciao,

Judy

Happy Valentine’s Day

14 Feb

Or as they commemorate in Italy, happy

Feast of Love!

dedicated to the memory of St. Valentino

IMG_1568

Always a  good reason to give a hug

and share some dolci!

IMG_5936

desserts from Tuscher Cafe

Ciao!

Judy

Arrivederci Rome

13 Feb

As I left for Fiumicino airport this morning, I tried to take in all the sights, sounds and smells of Italy. The word fortunate kept coming to mind, in particular, how fortunate I am for so many things:

Fortunate that I:

  • can so easily visit the land of my ancestors and experience firsthand some of their traditions
  • had an “audience” with Papa Francesco (along with about 15,000 others) in the sun!

IMG_1582

1620749_1463969063824376_411469088_n

  • was able to spend quality time with local friends in Cortona in the winter
  • developed new and interesting friendships in Roma
  • was able to walk many miles in sunshine seeing incredible antiquities

IMG_1588

  • was inside mostly when it rained (not raining here but you can see how high the Tiber is)

IMG_1589

  • can share my journey with fellow Rome Campers and others who follow or that I’ve met through my blog
  • am returning to America where my ancestors chose to live their lives

And finally, that Len didn’t mind toooo much staying at home to work while I played!

I have more photos and stories to tell of this trip, so stay tuned.

For now, arrivederci Roma, till next we meet.

Ciao,

Judy

Rome in Winter

10 Feb

Even if it happened every day, I hope I would still experience the same thrill that accompanies turning a corner and seeing Rome’s Coliseum.  An antiquity of enormous proportion and history, it rests comfortably within Rome’s modern world.

IMG_1417

as does its neighbor, the Roman Forum.

IMG_1421

IMG_1420

Amidst the much-needed restoration, and the winter tourists, and after taking the requisite photos, I took time to sit on a wall and ponder just how these were built and what life was like so long ago. True marvels.

And then there are the churches of Rome. Each one is a museum, housing more art than many towns and cities around the world. One among many is the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.

IMG_1403

IMG_1408

IMG_1411

I came to Rome to visit Benita. What a perfect excuse to visit Italy for a week. While she was in class, my first day was filled with monuments, piazzas, and yes, walking in my grandfather’s footsteps. At the very end of Via Veneto, across from Harry’s Bar, is the Grande Hotel Flora, where he stayed for five nights in August of 1938. (More on his time there when I get to those letters.)  It is now owned by Marriott, and fortunately, they have been very attentive to the history and original detail of the hotel.

IMG_1427

I met Baiba, the Sales Manager, and she willingly showed me around the hotel as she listened to the story of Alex’s journey. She showed me some rooms and we wondered which he might have stayed in.

IMG_1436

One of the hotel’s best features is the rooftop lounge which provides a 360 panorama of Rome. Whether overlooking Borghese Gardens or steeples around Rome, the view is breathtaking. I promised Baiba that Len and I would come for a sunset drink next time in Rome.

IMG_1432

IMG_1434

Other notables along my walk included Piazza di Spagna, where the fountain at the base of the steps is under major reconstruction.

IMG_1437

Nonetheless, the Spanish Steps are always one of my favorites and the place where fellow students and I met Dustin Hoffman many years ago. Really.

IMG_1438

Len, this is for you… The Ferrari Shop.

IMG_1442

Early evening, I waited at Piazza Cavour to meet Benita. What an amazing sunset, and so happy to be off my feet.

IMG_1447

We decided to start with apertivi, an Italian tradition.IMG_1456

And then took an evening stroll to the Vatican

IMG_1463

IMG_1466

IMG_1467

Castel Sant’ Angelo

IMG_1468

The PantheonIMG_1470

IMG_1471

And finally, an archeological dig.

IMG_1472

We walked to a favorite restaurant for dinner only to find it closed for remodeling, so we found another filled with locals. We ended the evening with gelato. Certo!

IMG_1462

The next day, Friday, while Benita was in class, I walked around Monte Mario, the town I had lived in as a student so long ago. Memories. Later at the hotel, I met the most amazing couple, Italian born and living in Basel, he a geneticist/researcher, both with incredible stories to tell.

photo

We literally spoke for hours, mostly in Italian, exchanged contact information, and might possibly meet in Cortona or Basel sometime. Giovanna, you would have been proud. I can’t tell you how helpful my Italian classes have been; and how very rewarding for me to be able to speak to people I might otherwise never have met.

That night, I took Benita and several of her friends to Navona Notte for dinner…a most enjoyable evening and very reminiscent of my time as a student in Rome.

photo - Version 2

After dinner, we parted company with the girls as Benita and I were staying in town that night. We wandered over to Piazza Navona and headed to a place near and dear to me, Tre Scalini, where my parents celebrated their 50th anniversary. Fortunately, they had brought their children/spouses along to join in the celebration. In honor of them, and my sibs, we ordered il tartufo! Just think chocolate…lots of it!

IMG_1484

IMG_1483

IMG_1480

Finally, we made our way to the Trevi, never to be overlooked if one wants to return to Rome.IMG_1489

With Benita’s long arms, we managed a selfie and I tossed a coin in the fountain. Benita had already tossed hers three weeks ago.

IMG_1488

Exhausted, in a very good way, we headed to our hotel near Termini, as we would leave for Cortona via train early the next morning. As we neared our hotel, Rome was nearly asleep.

IMG_1490

An incredible day!

Ciao,

Judy

Through His Words: Day Seven

4 Feb

Reflections From and About My Grandfather
Alexander Capraro, Architect

Day Seven:

Friday, July 22, 1938  
On board ship        
Chapter 7

Today has been a little lazy, took a shower, getting warmer as we follow the coast of Africa. We will soon pass the coast of the southern tip of the Island of Sardinia and then tomorrow the paradise of Joe Montenegro, Napoli.

Joe Montenegro, as you might remember, was Alex’s dear friend who was to have been with him on this trip, but Joe became ill and was unable to travel. The Montenegro family still had a home in Naples.

I am going to his [Joe’s family’s] apartment in Naples and will leave one of my bags there which I will pick up later.

At the age of 43, Alex was about to step foot in the country where he was born and for the first time since his parents took him to America when he was just five years old.

Have done pretty well with my laundry, soiled only 3 shirts, a few handkerchiefs, and a couple of sox. Will leave them in Naples to have them cleaned. We stop at Naples for about 5 hours and then proceed to Cannes, France, where I get off. Will stay at Cannes, Nice and Monte Carlo for 1.5 days, then go to Marseilles and Paris.

De Rosa has helped me with my itinerary and I am going to follow it as close as I can. 

IMG_1401

Alex’s itinerary, July 24-August 23, 1938

Alex then gives Maude directions to write him via the American Express Co. at Venice, and lets her know he will inquire for mail at each office along the way. He realizes, however, that her letters may not catch up to him until he reaches Firenze. He is so anxious for word from her about the family.

After that, you can address me at the Flora Hotel in Roma where I expect to stay according to the itinerary. After you receive this, please write often as I want to hear all about you, the three rascals, Ruth and Pa, and any scandal back home.

Hotel Flora peaked my interest. Is it still there? Can I go visit it?

facciatanotte733

Rome Marriott Grand Hotel Flora
Via Vittorio Veneto 191

The answer is YES! Coincidently, as Alex reaches Italy tomorrow, so too will I, (God willing, as Nana would say), as I am going to visit Benita in Rome. (Just keeping up the family tradition as my parents visited me when I studied in Rome. Unfortunately, Len can’t join us.) Alex’s trip took seven days at sea. 75 years later, mine will be an overnight flight.

According to its website, here’s some history about the Grand Hotel Flora:

While conserving the atmosphere of the Belle Epoque, the hotel today is a top-class structure with services on a par with international luxury hotels. Construction started on the Flora Hotel in 1905 and its harmonious Art Nouveau style was the work of the architect Andrea Busiri Vici…

Work on the hotel was completed in 1907 and it quickly became a refined residence which attracted an international clientele. In 1930, Paul Valery, in a letter to a friend written from the Flora Hotel said, “it has a special atmosphere you can’t find anywhere else,” and Ada Negri writing to the Countess Anna Maria di Broglio described the hotel as her “Roman home”.

In more recent times, but still the last century, the Grand Hotel Flora became a home away from home for celebrities in the Sixties, the years of Rome’s “Dolce Vita.” It was here, in the Villa Borghese, in the Casina Valadier and in Rome’s famous cafes that the rich and famous met. In the concierge’s guest book you can see the names of Prince Maximilian of Bavaria, Richard Nixon, Paul Getty, Christian Barnard, Joan Crawford, Cassius Clay and Federico Fellini.

I wonder if the guest book goes all the way back to 1938? I’ll have to check it out!

PS. Have just landed and went to Joe Montenegro apt.  Ferme met me and we are having lunch together at the Vesuvio Hotel.

You guessed it, another beauty, this one overlooking the sea.

Might this have been their view at lunch?

It’s hard to imagine just how excited Alex was as he stepped off the ship. Wow.

Regards, Al

To be continued.

Ciao,
Judy

Through His Words: Day Six

28 Jan

Reflections From and About My Grandfather
Alexander Capraro, Architect

Day Six:

Thursday, July 21, 1938 
On board ship        
Chapter 6

Hello Darling,

This was a very busy day. Got up at 5:00 a.m. to see the sunrise. What a beautiful sight to behold, a great big ball of fire suddenly coming up out of nowhere with its rays reflected in the shimmering silver on the ocean. There is something fascinating about the ocean, what it is I do not know, but it brings a feeling of regret that soon we will be on land while at the same time wishing to get away from it (the ocean). 

I met Fr. Peoria on deck and we took a real workout together walking about two miles, then turned in, took a shower, and had breakfast later. Soon we were to see what is known as St. Vincent’s Light, a light house on the south tip of Portugal…

The 79 foot lighthouse was built in 1846 over the ruins of a 16th-century Franciscan convent. It is one of the most powerful lighthouses in Europe overlooking one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes. Its lamps can be seen up to 37 miles away.

800px-Cabo_São_Vicente

Photo: Wiki commons

then see the south coast of Portugal and Spain and the north coast of Africa.

gibraltar-area

welt-atlas.de

The town of Tangier could be seen on the tip of Africa, then follows the African coast and by 9:00 p.m., looms the Rock of Gibraltar.  It is dark now and millions of lights from the city play on the water off the Straights of Gibraltar.

If you study the map, you can follow the ship’s course, heading east past Tangier (Tanger) through the Straights of Gibraltar en route to Naples; and if you close your eyes, you can just imagine the spectacle of lights dancing on the water that dark and beautiful night.

Powerful searchlights guide us to our location where we anchor and then a tender, another boat much smaller, comes up to ours to take off passengers getting off at Gibraltar. Battleships and submarines all around us – English, French, Italian and American. 

His last line, so calm, is amazing when you think of what was happening in the world in 1938. Tension between Germany and Czechoslovakia was growing; hostilities between China and Japan were raging; Hitler had sent his armed forces into Austria; and Italy, under Mussolini, had joined Germany and Japan in the Anti-Comintern Pact.

Small boats come up to our boat selling all kinds of junk to the passengers. These vendors throw up to our deck a rope with a basket tied to the end. This basket contains the articles they are selling. You ask, “How much?” They say, “$2.00.” You offer .50c and you settle for a dollar or less.

Soon the ship is ready to move. The small boats row away and we continue on between the coasts of Spain and Africa, a beautiful sight. We go on following the African coast, avoiding the Spanish coast.

When I first saw my grandfather’s passport, one page was puzzling to me. On page 5, Limitations, the following was stamped in red:

This passport is not valid for travel in Spain.

photoWith a little research,  I learned that Americans were not permitted in Spain in 1936 as it was consumed by  war, The Spanish Civil War, which would end in 1939 with General Franco prevailing. Franco would go on to rule Spain for 36 years until his death in 1975.

It is starting to get warmer as we are going farther south. We now start to see other ships for the first time since we left NY; every type of boat. We are in the Mediterranean, blue waters, large fish in schools jumping out of the water. For the first time, I actually saw “flying fish” – they fly about 10-20 ft out of the water and keep on until their “wings” dry out and they fall in the water again.

WAFR-00012339-001

According to the BBC – 2014, “Flying fish actually glide rather than truly fly. They launch themselves into the air by beating the tail very fast and spreading their pectoral fins to use as wings. There are 52 different species of flying fish which are found in the Indian, Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.”

We are now on our way to Naples, 1000 miles away, and will arrive about 1:30 p.m. Maude, I just can’t believe all this is an actuality; the whole thing seems like a dream. Last thing on the ship activities was in the swimming pool. They called it “A Night at the Lido.” Everybody came dressed in bathing suits or pajamas. There was dancing, races, and water sports with prizes for the winners. There was also a delicious buffet lunch, with wines and Champaign served, all for free.

The letters were dear to Maude. She missed her Al, but was happy for him. And as for the final onboard ship activity, A Night at the Lido, while Maude would have never attended in a bathing suit, or even pajamas, she would have never left the dance floor until the music stopped. Oh how she loved to dance!

IMG_0002

At our wedding in 1987, Len, Maude, me, my Mom and Dad (Alex and Maude’s son) 
Maude, at 92, still loved to dance!

2:00 A.M. to bed.

 Always Al

To be continued.

Ciao,
Judy

Through His Words: Day Five

8 Jan

Reflections From and About My Grandfather
Alexander Capraro, Architect

Day Five:

Wednesday, July 20, 1938 
On board ship        
Chapter 5

Darling Toots,

There is certainly a lot of water between us now. It seems there is no end to this ocean – water, water, sky and ocean.

Just how much water in distance? Approximately 7094 kilometers or 4408 miles or 3831 nautical miles.

Had breakfast and lunch today, and if I don’t gain weight on this trip, it won’t be the ship’s fault. I am being careful but the ocean air makes you eat almost anything and everything and especially tonight because they had a “Gala” night – the big night on the boat. Champaign was served and everyone had on their best clothes, paper hats, horns, and all kinds of favors. 

IMG_0003

Gala Night, Conte di Savoia; Alex 2nd from right

Interestingly, I had found this picture in my grandfather’s papers and wondered why he and three other grown men chose to wear hats with flowers at what appeared to be a semi-formal event. Fortunately, Alex took the time to write on the back of the photo:

IMG_0001

Thanks, Grandpa, for another piece of the puzzle. Love those white shoes!

The Gala night is put on by the Captain because tomorrow we will reach Gibraltar and a few of the passengers are getting off there, which makes it the last night for them on board ship.

The Rock of Gibraltar. Of course, doesn’t everyone stop there on their way to Italy?

From its website: https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/about-gibraltar:

In the ancient times, right through the age of empires and in the global conflicts of our own century, Gibraltar has stood guard over the western Mediterranean, its unique position making it the focus of a continuous struggle for power. This spectacular rock monolith, covering a land area of about six square kilometres, is situated at the southern tip of Spain overlooking the strait to Africa. It is known as the Meeting Place of Continents.

IMG_0004

“Gibraltar – Roch From Spanish Shores”

In March, 1937, a year before Alex’s trip, Maude received this postcard from their dear friends who had visited Gibraltar on their way to Naples, just like some passengers traveling with Alex would do the next day. 

“Most beautiful place. We went to the top of the mountain and came down in a basket sled. Lots of fun. Flowers grow everywhere here. Lovely calla lilies.” (From back of postcard)

In 1713, the Treaty of Utrecht gave Britain sovereignty over the island. Today, while there are only about 30,000 inhabitants, Gibraltar is visited by over 10 million tourists per year.

IMG_0006

I spent most of the afternoon in the engine room and a well spent afternoon it was. You can’t imagine the immensity of the engines, motors, turbines etc. that are necessary to operate this oil burning ship.

The engineering side of Alex was curious. Unlike most who were more than content to admire the ship’s external beauty, Alex was equally interested in what made the ship run. How many others would be so pleased to spend most of an afternoon in the engine room? (Well, besides my husband…)

For Alex, being on Conte di Savoia was a dream come true. Its magnificent design details appealed to his architectural creativity while the ship’s inner workings coaxed his inquisitive thinking. But no wonder. Alex had been in the profession for 20 years and had built a solid reputation. 20 years earlier, after WWI, he was engaged by the Illinois Central Railroad as Chief of the Real Estate Division.

IMG_0007

IMG_0008

A few years later, in 1921, Alex entered into active practice of his profession. Then in 1926, he formed a partnership with Morris Komar, another noted architect, and founded Capraro & Komar, Architects, with offices on Washington Street in Chicago.

Well, honey, tomorrow I expect to see land again, Gibraltar, and believe me, it will be a pleasure to see what terra firma looks like after 5 days of nothing but water. I am going to walk around the deck now for a while and will write again to tell you all about Gibraltar tomorrow.

Again love and kisses to my gang.

 Always Al

To be continued.

Ciao,
Judy

Happy New Year – Buon Anno!

31 Dec

A warm thank you to all who have found and followed Blogginginitaly.com, which had over 10,000 views from 83 countries in 2013. When I began writing in 2011, little did I realize the joy this blog would bring me. It is such fun for me to share my thoughts and experiences and know others enjoy reading about them as well.

A few things in store for Blogginginitaly 2014…

A winter visit to Rome… (haven’t done that since I was a student!)

IMG_5689

as well as Cortona, which I’ve never been to in winter!

IMG_0519

Much more about Alex and his travels to Italy

Image

and a summer journey for Len and me to Alex’s birthplace, Pietrabbondante.

Pietrabbondante

Pietrabbondante (Photo credit: diffendale)

As we anticipate our summer return to Cortona, we know it will be filled with wonderful new and familiar experiences, great food and wine, the tranquillity of piazza life, and so many roads less travelled to discover and share with you. But best of all, we know we will be spending time with dear friends we have made through our travels.

May your new year be filled with health and time spent with loved ones, and may you find  time to enjoy a sunset, wherever your roads lead you.

IMG_0013

Happy New Year and Buon Anno 2014!

Ciao,

Judy

Feast of the Seven Fishes

24 Dec

If you grew up in an Italian Catholic family, no doubt you will eat fish on Christmas Eve. La Vigilia di Natale, or The Vigil of Christmas, celebrates the anticipation of the midnight birth of baby Jesus. Similar to Ash Wednesday and Good Friday, meat is not eaten on Christmas Eve as part of the abstinence tradition. For Italians, of course, abstinence doesn’t mean not eating, just not eating meat. Instead, dinner is a large family meal celebrated with seven fishes and/or various seafood.

images-4

dreamofitaly.com

Why the number seven? No one knows for sure, but there are several theories. Two popular ones are that seven is the most repeated number in the Bible, appearing over 700 times. Another comes from Genesis 2:2:  By the seventh day, God completed the work he had been doing; so on the seventh day he rested from all his work.

Whatever the number of dishes, traditionally the meal will include various pastas with seafood, sautéed and fried fish, and fish salads.

89ca7e93-9115-4aea-acb8-24034caf8ad8

menuinprogress.com

LinguineclamsItlSeafoodDinner

LinguineclamsItlSeafoodDinnervikingrange.com

RITZ-CARLTON MUSSELS 2

A photograph of Fried calamari (squid).

Whatever your Christmas Eve tradition, may it include a great meal shared with those you love.

Ciao,

Judy

Zampognari…Italian Bagpipers!

23 Dec

Zampognari Keep Alive the Tradition of Festive Bagpipe Playing

Although we often associate bagpipers with the English and Scots, did you know that bagpipers are an important part of Christmastime tradition in Italy? Read on to discover the history.

Article reprinted from Italy Magazine, Barry Lillie | Monday, December 23, 2013 – 10:00

No Italian Christmas would be complete without the sound of bagpipes. Everywhere from the piazzas of Rome to remote hillside villages, the Zampognari (pipers) continue the tradition of festive bagpipe playing that dates back to ancient Roman times.

Traditionally, the pipers were shepherds who, in a bid to earn an extra income, would travel down from their mountain homes at Christmas time to perform for the townsfolk in their markets squares. The regions where you’re most likely to see a piper are Abruzzo, Basilicata, Campania, Calabria, Molise, Puglia and Lazio.

The traditional dress of the piper is made of short breeches with criss-crossed leather leggings, sheepskin vests with a woollen cloak and peaked cap; there are regional changes such as velvet jackets or neckerchiefs, but the look of the piper remains mostly the same it has for centuries.

Legend tells us that of the shepherds who visited the Virgin Mary in Bethlehem, after gazing upon the baby Jesus, some took out their bagpipes and played. In keeping with the legend, the pipers will stop at public Nativity scenes for a few minutes of quiet contemplation.

Historically, the piper is accompanied by a shawm, a medieval woodwind instrument; however, today’s pipers are usually accompanied by an oboe player. They play traditional music, with a popular song being the Christmas hymn, Tu scendi dalle stelle (You come down from the stars), written by Saint Alphonsus Maria de ‘ Liguori, the bishop of Sant’Agata de’ Goti.

Watch the zampognari play “Tu scendi dalle stelle”:

http://youtu.be/RCEyN1pCm3E

Makes me wonder if my paternal grandfather’s ancestors played the bagpipes as Alex’s family was from Abruzzo. Perhaps someday I’ll find a photo.

Ciao,

Judy