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Cortona in Winter

12 Feb

I always wondered what Cortona would be like in winter, and now I know. The same wonderful people, the same beautiful town, albeit a little quieter, and the same feeling like I’m home…ok, also colder and sometimes rainy, but certainly warm compared to Chicago.

Benita and I took the train from Roma last Saturday and spent two wonderful days and nights in Cortona. It’s an incredible feeling to walk through the market or down a street and recognize so many faces. We shopped, walked, ate, drank, talked and laughed with our wonderful Cortonese friends.

I think the pictures and smiles tell the story!

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Grazie ai nostri amici per un tempo meraviglioso!

And Len, this one is for you…un baccino from Daniela!

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Can’t wait to return this summer!

Ciao,

Judy

Rome in Winter

10 Feb

Even if it happened every day, I hope I would still experience the same thrill that accompanies turning a corner and seeing Rome’s Coliseum.  An antiquity of enormous proportion and history, it rests comfortably within Rome’s modern world.

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as does its neighbor, the Roman Forum.

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Amidst the much-needed restoration, and the winter tourists, and after taking the requisite photos, I took time to sit on a wall and ponder just how these were built and what life was like so long ago. True marvels.

And then there are the churches of Rome. Each one is a museum, housing more art than many towns and cities around the world. One among many is the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.

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I came to Rome to visit Benita. What a perfect excuse to visit Italy for a week. While she was in class, my first day was filled with monuments, piazzas, and yes, walking in my grandfather’s footsteps. At the very end of Via Veneto, across from Harry’s Bar, is the Grande Hotel Flora, where he stayed for five nights in August of 1938. (More on his time there when I get to those letters.)  It is now owned by Marriott, and fortunately, they have been very attentive to the history and original detail of the hotel.

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I met Baiba, the Sales Manager, and she willingly showed me around the hotel as she listened to the story of Alex’s journey. She showed me some rooms and we wondered which he might have stayed in.

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One of the hotel’s best features is the rooftop lounge which provides a 360 panorama of Rome. Whether overlooking Borghese Gardens or steeples around Rome, the view is breathtaking. I promised Baiba that Len and I would come for a sunset drink next time in Rome.

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Other notables along my walk included Piazza di Spagna, where the fountain at the base of the steps is under major reconstruction.

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Nonetheless, the Spanish Steps are always one of my favorites and the place where fellow students and I met Dustin Hoffman many years ago. Really.

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Len, this is for you… The Ferrari Shop.

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Early evening, I waited at Piazza Cavour to meet Benita. What an amazing sunset, and so happy to be off my feet.

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We decided to start with apertivi, an Italian tradition.IMG_1456

And then took an evening stroll to the Vatican

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Castel Sant’ Angelo

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And finally, an archeological dig.

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We walked to a favorite restaurant for dinner only to find it closed for remodeling, so we found another filled with locals. We ended the evening with gelato. Certo!

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The next day, Friday, while Benita was in class, I walked around Monte Mario, the town I had lived in as a student so long ago. Memories. Later at the hotel, I met the most amazing couple, Italian born and living in Basel, he a geneticist/researcher, both with incredible stories to tell.

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We literally spoke for hours, mostly in Italian, exchanged contact information, and might possibly meet in Cortona or Basel sometime. Giovanna, you would have been proud. I can’t tell you how helpful my Italian classes have been; and how very rewarding for me to be able to speak to people I might otherwise never have met.

That night, I took Benita and several of her friends to Navona Notte for dinner…a most enjoyable evening and very reminiscent of my time as a student in Rome.

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After dinner, we parted company with the girls as Benita and I were staying in town that night. We wandered over to Piazza Navona and headed to a place near and dear to me, Tre Scalini, where my parents celebrated their 50th anniversary. Fortunately, they had brought their children/spouses along to join in the celebration. In honor of them, and my sibs, we ordered il tartufo! Just think chocolate…lots of it!

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Finally, we made our way to the Trevi, never to be overlooked if one wants to return to Rome.IMG_1489

With Benita’s long arms, we managed a selfie and I tossed a coin in the fountain. Benita had already tossed hers three weeks ago.

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Exhausted, in a very good way, we headed to our hotel near Termini, as we would leave for Cortona via train early the next morning. As we neared our hotel, Rome was nearly asleep.

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An incredible day!

Ciao,

Judy

Happy New Year – Buon Anno!

31 Dec

A warm thank you to all who have found and followed Blogginginitaly.com, which had over 10,000 views from 83 countries in 2013. When I began writing in 2011, little did I realize the joy this blog would bring me. It is such fun for me to share my thoughts and experiences and know others enjoy reading about them as well.

A few things in store for Blogginginitaly 2014…

A winter visit to Rome… (haven’t done that since I was a student!)

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as well as Cortona, which I’ve never been to in winter!

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Much more about Alex and his travels to Italy

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and a summer journey for Len and me to Alex’s birthplace, Pietrabbondante.

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Pietrabbondante (Photo credit: diffendale)

As we anticipate our summer return to Cortona, we know it will be filled with wonderful new and familiar experiences, great food and wine, the tranquillity of piazza life, and so many roads less travelled to discover and share with you. But best of all, we know we will be spending time with dear friends we have made through our travels.

May your new year be filled with health and time spent with loved ones, and may you find  time to enjoy a sunset, wherever your roads lead you.

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Happy New Year and Buon Anno 2014!

Ciao,

Judy

Feast of the Seven Fishes

24 Dec

If you grew up in an Italian Catholic family, no doubt you will eat fish on Christmas Eve. La Vigilia di Natale, or The Vigil of Christmas, celebrates the anticipation of the midnight birth of baby Jesus. Similar to Ash Wednesday and Good Friday, meat is not eaten on Christmas Eve as part of the abstinence tradition. For Italians, of course, abstinence doesn’t mean not eating, just not eating meat. Instead, dinner is a large family meal celebrated with seven fishes and/or various seafood.

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Why the number seven? No one knows for sure, but there are several theories. Two popular ones are that seven is the most repeated number in the Bible, appearing over 700 times. Another comes from Genesis 2:2:  By the seventh day, God completed the work he had been doing; so on the seventh day he rested from all his work.

Whatever the number of dishes, traditionally the meal will include various pastas with seafood, sautéed and fried fish, and fish salads.

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A photograph of Fried calamari (squid).

Whatever your Christmas Eve tradition, may it include a great meal shared with those you love.

Ciao,

Judy

Preludio

14 Nov

Sometimes, we walk by a place, take note, and know we need to return. That was the case for us with Preludio, an elegant restaurant in Cortona. Unfortunately it took us three summers to eat there, but now it’s on our annual To-Do list.

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From the outside looking in, it seems as though this is a restaurant for celebrating an occasion – a birthday, an anniversary, etc.  Draped linens adorn the tables which are set with long stem wine glass and glowing candles.

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Local friends Luca and Simone first introduced us to the restaurant and assured us that wanting great food is occasion enough.  Fortunately for us, they did all the ordering, but I must admit, we dined as if we were celebrating a big occasion. First things first, some incredible wine from the Bolgheri region of Italy.

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Then on to the primi. The attention to detail at Preludio is as incredible as the food, and the presentation of each dish is truly a work of art. I especially loved how our friends chose their favorite local and regional dishes to share with us. While I can’t remember the names of many of the dishes,  I do remember the taste.

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Escalope of foie gras sauce, lettuce, grapefruit and potatoes pumpkin

Not being such a foie gras aficionado, I was very content sitting next to this incredible fondue!

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For the secondo, we were treated to a Tuscan trio – two pastas with meat and one saffron porcini risotto with black truffle. I headed right for the risotto!

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Although two-thirds of my plate was still covered, our friends wanted us to share a Florentine steak. With no more room for dinner, we finally agreed on dessert which they insisted was mandatory. Well, feast your eyes!

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According to their website:

Preludio is always looking for new challenges posed by the evolution of taste, frequently revisited by combining creativity and continuity and adapting it to the current seasons. 

Do not ask us what is our main dish, because our ambition is to ensure that every dish that leaves our kitchen is new and unique…

Sometimes a night doesn’t need a special occasion to celebrate as the night itself becomes the occasion.  Our dinner at Preludio with our local friends was one of those nights. Grazie for a special night we will long remember.

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Just like in English, the name Preludio (prelude) means the beginning or an introduction. I’m so glad we’ve been introduced!

Ciao,

Judy

Postscript:

Len and I enjoyed the restaurant so much, we returned another evening for a “simpler” dinner of risotto, salmon, artichokes and potatoes. We’ll be back for more. 

Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, Cortona

20 Sep

Since it’s Friday, I was thinking about where I’d like to have dinner tonight. A simple choice would be Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, except for the fact that it is in Cortona and we are in Chicago. Oh, well, I can still think about what we might order after receiving a warm welcome from Alessandro, owner and always visible greeter.

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The entrance to the two-story restaurant is on Via Roma, and you can choose indoor or limited outdoor seating. According to its website, “It was the first restaurant opened in the medieval town of Cortona, around 1904.” The word cacciatore means “hunter” in Italian, and the restaurant serves typical Tuscan dishes and “specialities including grilled meat chianina, ribollita and pici with meat sauce,” a local pasta favorite.

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There’s an ample selection of wines to choose from, and the house wine is fine as well.

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The food is very good, and the atmosphere and staff are always warm and inviting.

Whether we stop in for pizza and a tomato salad

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Tonight, perhaps we’d start with an antipasto of cheeses and freshly sliced meats…

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And to top off a most satisfying dinner, why not a little tiramisu? (It’s so much better in Italy!)

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All in a night’s work, but then someone gets to do it. Just wish it could be us tonight!

Whether it’s just the two of us, or we are part of a large group, Ristorante IL CACCIATORE is one of our favorite go-to restaurants in Cortona.

Ciao,

Judy

15,000+ Views!

31 Aug

I am delighted to report that this week, Blogginginitaly.com surpassed 15,000 views! Pretty amazing, especially as it began as a fun way for me to share our travels with family members and a few friends.

IMG_1809Over the last two years, my blog has been my journal, giving me a place to record my thoughts, experiences and pictures as we travel around Italy.

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To my surprise and delight, its reach has broadened and now includes viewers from over 80 countries.

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Many thanks for all your thoughtful comments and encouragement. Writing my blog is an endless learning curriculum for me – one that is filled with never-ending yet truly satisfying homework.

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It’s a joy to share my reflections about Italy with others who love it so, and a privilege to share it with those who can only dream of going.

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I can think of no better way to say thanks than by sharing some of my very favorite views.

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And of course, let’s not forget the food!

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Finally, to Len, with whom I have seen all of these views,

a little something we saw on a hillside…

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Ciao, Judy

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Gelato

26 Aug

Whether you’ve been to Italy many times, or hope to visit someday, eating gelato is no doubt on your list. As the summer heat intensifies, what better way to cool your palate and bring a smile to your face than with some delicious gelato.

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Gelato is Italy’s version of ice cream, yet tastes much better. Why? I wondered, and did a little research. Although I am much better at enjoying gelato than making it, here are three major differences I discovered:

  1. Gelato generally has less than 10% butterfat, compared to ice cream’s typical 18-25+ range. The lower butterfat causes the gelato to melt in your mouth faster and provides an immediate blast of flavor.
  2. Air is not added to gelato, giving gelato a higher density than most ice cream. This density results in gelato’s rich taste and very creamy texture.
  3. Although gelato is a frozen dessert, it can be served at a temperature 10°+ warmer than ice cream, adding to its creamier consistency.It's the picture of Italian ice-cream in a sho...

It seems as though you can find a gelateria, or ice cream store, in just about every town in Italy. Some have several, and the larger cities seem to have one on every corner. Cortona has several.

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Although gelato is almost always good, the taste and quality can vary. I tend to shy away from outdoor ones in direct sunlight. You can just tell.

Gelato is typically presented in stainless tubs in large cooled glass displays.

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Some newly designed modern displays are even becoming popular.

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Cup or cone? Large or mini? Whatever you prefer.

Gelato Cones (Florence)

Need free samples to decide? Assolutamente!

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As for flavors, think of the rainbow, or better yet, a large box of new crayons. Pink and yellow are not just added colors.

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You can often expect actual pieces of fruit in the frutta gelato such as peach, pineapple, mango, banana or apricot. Creme are the creamy gelatos such as chocolate, vanilla, hazelnut, caffé, and pistachio.

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What’s the most popular? Seems to be chocolate, although it comes in many varieties such as dark, extra dark, fudge, milk, etc. And the names seem to be as creative as the flavors. Learning them is like Intro to Italian I.

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Gelato 2 (Photo credit: minonda)

So, whatever your palate, there is always one flavor to please…in fact, probably several.  Thanks, Grandpa!

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And of course, don’t worry if it starts to drip a bit. Besides tasting great, gelato is always finger licking good!

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Gelato anyone?

Ciao,

Judy

Sagra della Bistecca

18 Aug

Each year, same time, same place, Cortona offers up the same wonderful steak-lover’s paradise. Cortona’s Ferragosto is an Italian chiana beef steak fest filled with celebration, amazing aromas, seasoned chefs and smiles galore.

As reported  in a similar blog one year ago, the Latin “Feriae Augusti” denoted the “August Rest” which was a month-long holiday period proclaimed in the 18th century by Emperor Augustus. It was a time when people could relax after all the hard work associated with the harvest and the end of the year’s main agricultural work. It was also a time when nobility mixed with the workers.

Over time, the festival shortened to a few weeks and eventually became a one-day event, celebrated on August 15 each year. For Italians, this bank holiday combines elements of both ancient and Christian worlds, as August 15 also commemorates the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

Cities throughout Italy celebrate this day with great festivals. If you happened to be in Cortona, you no doubt enjoyed the annual Sagra della Bistecca, or beef steak festival, held in the normally quiet parterre, or public garden pictured here. A beautiful and moving war memorial graces the park’s entrance.

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Beyond the statue lies this fountain,  providing a quiet place to reflect or toss a penny.

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And beyond the fountain is the expansive parterre, often silent beyond belief.

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Of course, you might encounter the occasional dog walker.

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Or the many cats who call the parterre home. But generally, count on a peaceful and mostly tourist free passeggiata, or Italian stroll.

For the festival, however, the quiet setting is completely transformed. An enormous grill, some 14-meters long, is erected. Locals don chef’s aprons, and with extra long forks, lovingly go about the work of grilling mouth-watering T-bone steaks, Italian sausages, and spareribs for the locals who have crowded the park to enjoy the celebration with family and friends.

Local wines and cheeses compliment the grilled meats and make for a perfect feast and day of relaxation.  If interested, I’ve included a wonderful 2011 time lapsed You Tube clip of the Cortona event: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anpiFhse558

Hmmm… grilled steaks for dinner tonight? Definitely worth the calories.

Ciao,

Judy

Pizza and More

2 Aug

Missing our Italian friends and food, and knowing that imitation is the best form of flattery, Len and I headed to the market (as in “specialty” supermarket) last Saturday morning. What started out as a pizza dinner for seven slowly transformed into a bit more, but who was counting courses.  All present had been to Italy with us sometime in the past several years, so it was a good reason to share a meal and wonderful memories.

It was too cold (in July?) to enjoy the  beautiful geraniums on our deck,

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so we moved inside to eat:

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And eat we did!

From my garden,  I made homemade pesto:

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and tomato bruschette: (homemade but not from my garden!)

All served with toasted garlic-rubbed Italian bread rounds.

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Then some freshly sliced Italian salumi and cheeses:

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Plus eggplant alla Judy:

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All accompanied by Prosecco, our new primo tradition.

For the next course, it was time for Len to take over in the kitchen and perform his pizza magic. He made the dough the night before…only slow rise, of course!

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After reaching room temperature, he gently rolled each pizza:IMG_0018

Topped each per request:

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And cooked quickly!

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The pizzas were served with grilled veggies:

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Italian sausage:

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Feeling like we’re back in Italy…priceless!

Ciao,

Judy