Tag Archives: Cortona

Cortona Town Guide: Cortonaweb

10 Jun

Each year in Cortona, we are fortunate to befriend more and more locals, one of the reasons we return to Cortona. This year, two of those people are Luca Tiezzi and Simone Rossi, founders and publishers of Cortonaweb.net. Pictured below with Len, they introduced us to Le Celle, one of the most beautiful places in Cortona. (Le Celle to be covered in another post!) While we knew of the monastery’s existence, we thought the grounds were private, so we never entered the monastery of St. Francis of Assisi. But for now, back to Luca and Simone and Cortonaweb.

IMG_0016_2

Len, being a business professor of Entrepreneurship, loves meeting with young entrepreneurs and discussing the challenges and opportunities they face. Here in Italy, there are many challenges for the young as unemployment  is well above 20%. With Luca and Simone, our conversations dance between English and Italian, and include everything from local and national politics, their business goals and challenges, food, wine, historical sites, travel, and whatever is happening in town. Being natives of Cortona, their depth of knowledge and appreciation of the historical area is evident, not only in their conversation but also in the relevance and thoroughness of their work.

While Len and I have many books and maps on various parts of Italy, Cortonaweb is a Cortona tourist’s friend, offering a detailed website that includes local events, weather, local attractions and historical sites, and some recommendations for shopping,  dining and accommodations. While not all-inclusive, it certainly is a great place to start.  In addition, from the website, you can order a small but concise Town Guide and an interactive map with GPS coordinates and links to video guides and podcasts. The photo-filled small guide, available on Amazon through their website, is light and easy to carry, unlike so many others. If coming to Cortona, a must have!

IMG_0031

Grazie to Luca and Simone for introducing us to one of Cortona’s best treasures, Le Celle, and sharing their knowledge and expertise with us.

IMG_0031

New friends, new finds…we are always open for the unexpected as we experience all that Cortona has to offer!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: ,

Cortona Market Set up

8 Jun

If you wake early enough, you can watch the empty Piazza Signorelli come to life on Saturday morning and become the open market.  We have wondered how all the trucks arrive and set up, as the streets leading to the Piazza are narrow and steep. This morning we found out.

A truck that becomes a canopied stall looks like this when closed:

IMG_0001

Between 7-8 am, dozens of trucks maneuver through the narrow streets to reach their assigned  spaces. This truck actually made it through without hitting anything!

IMG_0011

In an ancient town like Cortona, one might expect market stalls to be rather simplistic. However, that is anything but true. These modern marvels are fascinating. If you have ever seen a factory with automation in full bloom, you’d still be impressed with the robotic mechanisms on these trucks which transform them into stand-alone self-sufficient markets.

As you can see in the video, articulated robotic arms open and move canopies and sides into all directions to become  open-air covered stores. Then the contents are moved outside, whether clothes, shoes, household goods or food.

IMG_0026

IMG_0010

Gabriella and Luigi, our Saturday roasted chicken vendors, told us about their truck. We learned that there is a factory between here and Firenze that customizes each truck to fit the needs of the vendor. Some  just need canopies, while others, like them, require refrigeration and spit-fired roasters. Whatever the need, the factory can oblige. Some of the canopies are even opened by hand-held remote controls. Incredible!

Like so many other proprietors in town, the “roaming marketeers” are self-sufficient, hard-working people who cater to the needs of their customers. Some set up at multiple markets throughout the week, different towns, different days. Cortona is one of the smaller markets, so it is easy to get to know the vendors. They are helpful and always have a kind word and a smile. A most enjoyable morning and well worth an early start to this warm and sunny day!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , ,

Cortona: Back to Normal

2 Jun

Today, Sunday in Cortona, life back to normal, warm and sunny!

We hiked the hills

IMG_0593

The men returned to their benches

IMG_0587

The Saturday market was replaced by the Medieval Market: 

Breads

IMG_0597

SpicesIMG_0561

Beans

IMG_0566

Grilled local sausagesIMG_0594

Ciaccia (fried dough)…note the cell phone!

IMG_0559

Cheeses and local products

IMG_0575

And the workers!

IMG_0576

People have returned to the piazzas

IMG_0582

IMG_0573

Life is good!

Tomorrow, weather permitting, we take to the road, not sure which direction, and perhaps no internet. Stay tuned!

Just now, as I am finishing this, black clouds have filled the skies and the winds are swirling. Nonetheless, a wonderful day! Good we have those leftovers…

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , ,

Buon Appetito…and Immersion!

1 Jun

A few years ago, knowing that my dream of travelling to Italy annually was about to begin, I began a two-year search for Italian classes. I wasn’t looking for academic credits, or a class filled with grade conscious students; rather, I wanted to join a group of like-minded adults who yearned to improve their knowledge of everything Italian –  the language, food, culture, holidays, nuances, etc. This also meant I needed to find a native Italian teacher, not someone who merely majored in the subject. Luckily, my search finally led me to Giovanna Dimetros. I must admit, her Greek last name puzzled me at first, until I learned it was her married name and she’s actually a native of Tuscany. Pictured below are Giovanna (left) and two classmates who hosted a dinner for our class last December at Giovanni’s (right) house. As you can see, we are big on immersion!

Photo0014

Simply put, Giovanna’s classes provide me with more than I had hoped for. Each session is interactive, dynamic, challenging, and filled with great camaraderie. Of most importance is Giovanna’s desire to have us learn and understand what she teaches, not just memorize.

My goal was to reach a point where I no longer felt like a tourist in Italy, and while my learning will be a lifelong pursuit, I’m now comfortable conversing with locals who speak no English at all – a great tribute to Giovanna!

In our book, Unit 5 is called Buon Appetito, and we learned how to prepare a shopping list, go to market, and make lunch or dinner. Today in Cortona, we did just that. Our list included roasted chicken and turkey, cheeses, tomatoes, basil, bread sticks and vino.

While we order the roasted chicken weekly, our favorite “chicken lady” had a special this week: roasted and boned turkey leg with herbs. No antibiotics or preservatives…just incredible flavors and a heavy dose of fresh sage leaves and dill rolled inside. How does one have the patience to bone a turkey leg????

IMG_0488

We carried everything home and set out our feast. The only thing missing was all of you, and we could have fed all of you! Good for us we like left overs.

Mozzarella fresca e pomodorini

IMG_0001

Grana Padano Parmigiano

IMG_0002

Boned roasted turkey leg (left)  and roasted chicken (right)

IMG_0003

Una vera festa…A true feast!

IMG_0004

Even the constant rain decided to pester others today

IMG_0540

and granted Cortona a rain-free and sometimes even sun-filled day…

IMG_0556

Listening to Andrea Bocelli as I write…Perfetto!

And to my Italian class:

Vorrei che tu fossi qui per andare a fare la spesa con me e gustare un delizioso pranzo. E sto anche usando il passato e il futuro bene!

Ci vediamo a settembre! Ciao, ciao,

Giuditta

Tags: , , , ,

A Day at the Market

31 May

If it’s Thursday, it’s market day in Camucia, the town at the base of Cortona. Vendors of every type gather to sell their wears. Vegetables, poultry, meats, salamis, men’s, ladies’ and children’s clothes, leather goods, shoes, boots, flowers, candy, pastry, spices, household goods, luggage, scarves, lingerie, socks, and just about anything you might need.

We woke to a morning sun, an amazing sight these days, and took the morning bus down the hill to Camucia, a ten minute “switchbacking” scenic drive. We began the day at Vanelli Caffetteria for cappuccino and dolce. They pride themselves on the most artistic coffees and it’s fun watching their artists at work:

IMG_0462

IMG_0463

Then to the market we went. Most of the men gather at the front, their version of a man cave…

IMG_0470

while most women roam the market, a great idea as each group is happy.

IMG_0486

Len and I usually begin together, then when Len has seen enough, he heads to the male section.

I think the food is always the most interesting, and the locals happily shop for everything fresh. Feast your eyes:

Porchetta, about four feet long

IMG_0472

Prosciutto

IMG_0479

IMG_0475

Formaggio and Salumi

IMG_0481

IMG_0482

IMG_0484

Fresh Porcini, bigger than my fist

IMG_0490

Anchovies (Yikes!)

IMG_0483

Just picked garlic

IMG_0491

And despite all the local cuisine, for those needing an American food fix…

IMG_0489

We had fun shopping and bought a few things including several pair of socks since it has been so cold and wet! Waiting for the bus to take us home, the skies opened and it began to hail. Locals say this is the worst weather in 100 years and I believe it. And it’s not supposed to break for another 10 days. Glad we are not having many guests this year.

So, if you are wondering why I am mostly writing about food, it’s because restaurants are one of the few places to keep dry.  The good news is that we are getting to know the locals better, and that’s a big reason we are here. The healthy news for us is that to get anywhere, we need to climb one of the steepest streets in Cortona, coupled with the  35 steps in our house. So, although we haven’t been able to take our usual hikes, we are still getting plenty of exercise. Here’s hoping for the return of sunshine!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , , ,

Antica Trattoria

29 May

One of the things you’ll rarely find in Cortona’s eateries is absentee ownership. Each proprietor is the essence of entrepreneurship…the first to arrive, the last to leave, sometimes the chef, visible to all, always on the go, and very devoted to pleasing patrons. Meet owner Luca Cuculi at Antica Trattoria, one such proprietor.

IMG_0455

For all who were with us last summer, you’ll no doubt remember the wonderful dinners we enjoyed at this restaurant, whether dining inside or al fresco. And last night was no different.

For primo, we shared an order of panzerotti, a hand-made, half-moon shaped stuffed pasta…Incredible!

IMG_0451

IMG_0450

For secondo, we usually share an entrée, but since Len loves lamb chops and I don’t eat them, we ordered two entrées:

IMG_0453

the grilled hen and roasted potatoes for me:
IMG_0457

and the grilled lamb ribs with sautéed spinach for Len, which he proclaimed to be the best he has ever had!

IMG_0460

To complement our dinner, we ordered Sangiovese.  Fresh, simple, delicious! Grazie, Luca!

We’ll be back for sure!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , ,

Cortona Update and Random Event

28 May

Day 6:

Thanks for all your blog comments. It has been difficult to write and respond as we have not had internet in the house till today. Hopefully, it will continue to work!

Summer has yet to find its way to Cortona. Locals are sporting down jackets and boots, while the tourists walk around in their flip-flops, shorts and sweats, shivering while huddled under umbrellas. Yet always with a smile. Although we have more summer than fall clothes with us, we are nonetheless keeping warm. Eating and sampling various vini also helps!

About 10:30 last night, on our walk home through Piazza Republicca, we heard a familiar sound. Einstein, as I call him, had just begun to grace the almost empty piazza with the sounds of his flute. We stopped to listen and visit, as did others passing by. One of the things we love about Cortona is that there is always something happening, whether planned or random.

As I am finally learning to add some video to my blog, here’s a short piece from last night.

Today, we stopped at Tacconi Trattoria on Via Dardano to see friends Graziella and Angelo and to enjoy pappardelle con ragu. Amazing how delicious pasta warms cold feet…that and the pair of long socks I bought next door!

IMG_0447

IMG_0448

Wow, there is a strange bright light coming through the window…can it be the sun?

Better run!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: ,

Fett’ unta on Via Maffei, Cortona

26 May

In Italian, the word “merenda” means afternoon snack. Fett’ unta is a new small eatery in Cortona, just opened a week, serving light lunch and dinner as well as afternoon snacks. We watched them doing construction at this location last summer so we stopped in today to sample the local cuisine. As for the name, if I understand it correctly, unta means “greased” as in greasing something with oil. Since literal translations rarely work, I’ll go with drizzling olive oil on your bread or panini, etc. At any rate, the food we ordered was delicious.

We shared two different bruschette:

Pear, cheese and walnuts; Mozzarella and roasted tomatoes

IMG_0018_2

Then we each ordered a hearty local soup as summer has yet to arrive in Cortona:

Orzo, artichoke and pecorino

IMG_0020_2

And pearl barley and beans

IMG_0019_2

Meet the owners, Ulisse and Antonio

IMG_0021_2

and check out their website at www.fettunta.net

Better yet, stop by when you are in town and they can make you a fresh prosciutto panini!

IMG_0017

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , , , ,

Italy Info Worth Reading

10 May

Whether or not you have travel plans for Italy, reading and learning about the country and planned events can be great fun. Several people have asked what sites I follow, so I thought I’d share a few.

If looking for Cortona specific information, check out www.cortonaweb.net. This site provides information on everything from weather to local events, podcasts, restaurants, accommodations, history of Cortona, maps, wedding planners, tours, wine shops, etc. While not all-inclusive, it certainly covers a broad spectrum of interesting and useful information about Cortona.

The website was started in 1999 by a few locals just for fun, and with sponsorship, has grown over the years. It is well-written and informative. The following picture and caption from the site’s front page describe Cortona’s amazing Etruscan Museum, or MAEC, which is definitely worth visiting:

“A journey back 2700 years Restoring History. Dawn of the Etruscan Princes.”

slide-maec-restaurando-la-storia

Un viaggio a ritroso di 2700 Anni Restaurando La Storia. L’Alba dei Principi etruschi

I’ve been in touch with the authors of cortonaweb.net and look forward to meeting them this summer!

For reading about Italy in general, a site I enjoy is an online magazine called Italy Magazine: http://www.italymagazine.com

Its byline reads: “Since 1999, the n.1 magazine for lovers of all things Italian.” Like me! Included in the magazine are Italian current and cultural events, travel tips, accommodations, properties for sale, festivals and recipes such as the one below on how to make limoncello.  Hey, something fun to try on Mother’s Day, which by the way, is also celebrated on the second Sunday in May in Italy…
Tanti Auguri Mamma!

limoncello

italymagazine.com

http://www.italymagazine.com/recipe/how-make-limoncell

So sit back, relax, and take some time to explore these wonderful, ever-changing and totally free sources about Italy.

Happy Reading and Enjoy –  Buon divertimento!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: , , , , ,

Anticipation!

7 Apr

With the calendar reading April, I am filled with anticipation. As I look out the window, or take walks, my eyes are surrounded with the signs of spring…plants pushing aside their winter hibernation as they eagerly seek sunshine; trees coming to life and showing off their annual budding ritual.

IMG_0402

IMG_6991

In addition to spring, I am also anticipating our return to Cortona. According to local friend Patricia, spring is also in the air.

“April 3rd was a fine day.  It wasn’t very warm but the sun was shining and it felt like spring.  This made everybody particularly happy because of an Italian proverb:

Terzo Aprilante, quaranta dì durante, 

or as some say,

Terzo aquilante, quaranta dì durante.

That means that if it rains on April 3rd, it will rain for 40 days!  After all the rain we have had, nobody could bear the thought of that, so the sunny day was a great relief!”

Sure hope the proverb holds true!

So, on this sunny Sunday, a few other things I look forward to in Cortona:

Getting back to piazza life –

IMG_4982

IMG_4253

IMG_4677

Taking in the incredible vistas –

IMG_4295

 Marveling at the architecture –

IMG_4296

 

IMG_4941

Strolling the local markets –

IMG_4280

IMG_4182

Enjoying simply delicious food –

IMG_4722 IMG_4572

Sharing some incredible vino –

IMG_4213

Being immersed in “Italian class” every day –

IMG_6435

And after walking for miles, sometimes just hanging out with Len in Piazza Gharibaldi, watching tourists come and go, and feeling, if only for a short time, that we belong to this little piece of heaven – 

IMG_4745

Perfetto!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: ,

← Older Entries
Newer Entries →