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September Days in Cortona

Autunno, or autumn, is my favorite time of year in Cortona. The days are shorter, the winds are cooler, and the tide of tourism transforms. It is a calmer time of year that lends itself well to contemplating all that meets the senses.

Parterre Changing Colors©Blogginginitaly.com

Parterre©Blogginginitaly.com

Saturday Market©Blogginginitaly.com

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Porcini©Blogginginitaly.com

Lavender Festival©Blogginginitaly.com

Choco Festival©Blogginginitaly.com

Art Exhibits©Blogginginitaly.com

And endless antiquities:

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Autumn – The third season of the year, when crops and fruits are gathered and leaves begin to fall.

A good time to take time to ponder.

©Blogginginitaly.com

Ciao,
Judy

Comments 10 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Market, Etruscan Ruins, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italian History, Italy, Market Day, Medieval, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Renting in Cortona, Tuscany

RAMPICHIANA 2016: Mountain Bike Race

4 Apr

In keeping with my theme that one never knows what to expect in Cortona, yesterday we were entertained by RAMPICHIANA, a large mountain bike race which was held in Cortona.

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Not sure of the number, but it seemed like a few thousand cyclists, in colorful gear and sponsorship, descended upon Cortona. As we got our morning coffee, many were walking, strategizing and warming up on Via Nazionale.

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There were three categories in this 12th edition of the race:

The LONG race was 45 km, or about 28 miles, through the streets and hills around Cortona, with 1600 meters (about one mile high) of altitude. The race started at 10 am

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with the elite cyclists getting ready to begin.

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They were followed by the second group

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and all headed down Via Nazionale toward Piazza Garibaldi, where they seemed to explode into a mass of colorful streamers.

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The MIDDLE race was 30 km with 1100 meters in altitude. The SHORT race, for non-competitive cyclists and minors, took 45 minutes with less altitude and challenging curves. It was as close as I have ever been to a cyclist race, and everyone was caught up in the buzz as they flew by.

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Good weather brought out the cheering spectators.

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As we walked around town, we caught a glimpse of riders at various parts of the race. For those who know the town well, imagine riding UP Via Guelfa on a mountain bike when we are challenged walking up Via Guelfa on foot! And this is after riding over 20+ miles in the hills.

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We met a lovely couple from Pennsylvania who asked, “Do these things just sort of happen here?” “Yes,” I said and smiled. “It’s part of what keeps us coming back.”

The race ended in Piazza Signorelli, with the final curve leading from Piazza Repubblica.

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We were right there when the first woman crossed the finish line.

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Complimenti!

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A good day for both riders and spectators…

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and a well-deserved rest for a job well done!

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Ciao,
Judy

Tags: Mountain Bike Race Cortona, RAMPICHIANA 2016 Cortona

Comments 7 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian Festival, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Pageantry, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Christmas Greetings from Cortona

12 Dec

What is Christmas like in Cortona? Christmas in Cortona makes me feel as if I am still there. Such fun seeing so many friends who live and work in Cortona and make it such a special place. Thanks, AF Travel, for putting this together.

Christmas In Cortona, Tuscany ©AF TRAVEL

Click here and enjoy: Christmas in Cortona

Ciao,

Judy

Comments 9 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Cortona Trattoria, Food, Food shopping in Cortona, Italian Charcuteries, Italian Food, Italian Hair Stylists, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italian Post Office, Italian WIne, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Renting in Cortona, Tuscany

Autumn in Cortona – Autunno a Cortona

27 Oct

Quiet Walks – Tranquille Passeggiate

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Long Shadows – Ombre Lunghe

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Sun Painted Piazzas – Piazze Dipinte dal Sole

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Time for Appertivo – Il Momento dell’ Appertivo

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Ciao,

Judy

Comments 10 Comments
Categories Cortona, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany

La Compagnia Arcieri della Civetta

5 Oct

The Archidado Joust, which occurs the second Sunday of June in Cortona, traces its origins back to the Middle Ages. It was created in 1397 to celebrate the wedding the Lord of Cortona to a noble woman from Siena. For several weeks in June, town’s people are dressed in medieval style and banners are hung representing the various quarters of the town. Competition is fierce for the crossbow event.

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But how does one learn to use a crossbow? Like other sports, it requires years and years of practice and training, often passed down from parent to child. To assist in this learning, The Compagnia Arcieri della Civetta (Bowmen of Owl Association) was established in July 2010.

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Its purpose is “to practice and spread archery by using historical bows and learning everything about this discipline, from knowing different timbers, knowing how to use hand crafted bows made by skilled archers, how to make arrows, and how to shoot them both towards fixed or moving targets.”

©Blogginginitaly.com

The Association participates in tournaments in many towns all over Italy, and for the second year, in Cortona.

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Although the weather didn’t participate, the costumed participants put on quite a show.

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The Bowmen move in assigned groups and have specific times to attempt each target. Creative and challenging objects are placed around the town, some with moving targets such as below. Here, a string is pulled and the large black disc swings as a pendulum.

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Others are stationary, but no less difficult, as in needing to shoot though two openings to hit the target from quite a distance away.

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Some targets are placed at the end of tiny viccoli or streets; here a father is shielding his young bowmen from the rain…

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as others cheered them on.

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Participants carefully checked their status and timing at each station.

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After shooting, bowmen would examine their results and retrieve their arrows.

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as some of the junior members just tried to stay dry and warm.

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Later in the afternoon, the participants gathered and the winners were announced. A new event in an ancient city, reminding us of medieval times gone by.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Bowmen of Owl Association, Cortona Archery Competition, La Compagnia Arcieri della Civetta

Comments 1 Comment
Categories Cortona, Italian Festival, Italian History, Italy, Medieval, My Blog about Italy, Pageantry, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca

ChocoCortona

20 Sep

This weekend, Cortona is hosting ChocoCortona, La Grande Festa del Cioccolato Artiginale, or festival of handcrafted chocolates.

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And what a selection there is. You can sign up for chocolate making lessons,

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observe various chocolate cooking shows,

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or simply wander the tents filled with chocolate delicacies.

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Some of the chocolates are especially creative:

Various cheeses or an antipasto platter ©Blogginginitaly.com

Cars, purses or shoes? ©Blogginginitaly.com

While others are just plain tempting…

White, milk and dark chocolate discs ©Blogginginitaly.com

Fresh waffles or hot fudge covered fruit skewers ©Blogginginitaly.com

Covered nuts and fruits ©Blogginginitaly.com

Look no further for that kid in a candy shop…

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Or a happy messy one…

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Thinking of an after dinner liquor? So many flavors to choose from.

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But then why wait till after dinner when you can have a shot in a chocolate filled cup!

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However you like your chocolate, you’re sure to find it at ChocoCortona.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: ChocoCortona, Handcrafted Chocolates

Comments 12 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Market, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscany

Sitting in our Painting

7 Sep

Two years ago, we bought a wonderful Allesandro Bulli watercolor from Ivan at Il Pozzo Galleria. We chose it because it depicts a view we see here daily – the view from Piazza Signorelli into Piazza Republicca. At home, it hangs over our breakfast room table and brings a smile to my face daily.

Allesandro Bulli

Late this afternoon, after a pretty steep 4.5 mile walk, we headed to Cacio Brillo for a glass of wine and some bruschette. As we sat, I felt as if I was sitting in our painting enjoying the same view, so I took a photo of it.

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At Cacio Brillo, we chose four bruschette: artichokes/pecorino, fresh tomatoes, fresh porcini mushrooms, and one liver pate for Len (not depicted!).

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Eating the bruschette and sipping some red wine, Len’s was Chianti and mine from Bolgheri, (western part of Tuscany), we took in the scenery as we enjoyed music from a flamenco guitarist in the piazza.

©Blogginginitaly.com

Piazza life – such a civilized way to spend a sunny afternoon.

Ciao,

Judy

Comments 9 Comments
Categories Caffe, Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Food, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca

Sharing Cortona

6 Sep

My Chicago Italian teacher, Giovanna, a Tuscan native, and her dear friends Clarissa and Sergio, who live about two hours away in Tuscany, have been with us for two beautiful days. We have walked, talked, climbed, dined, and been welcomed by our wonderful local friends who call this incredible town home.

Among other things, we visited two of our favorite eateries, Caffe Tuscher for appertivo and Prosecco –

Tuscher Caffe©Blogginginitaly.com

and AD Braceria for dinner…

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as well as our favorite gallery, Il Pozzo.

Il Pozzo ©Blogginginitaly.com

At each, not only were our visitors surprised by the creativity and quality of the food and art, they were also charmed by our friends, the proprietors, who willingly share their knowledge of the history of the ancient buildings that house their establishments.

One of the things I often tell people is that Cortona has a never-ending supply of surprises, and today did not disappoint. After emerging from the Cortonantiquaria, an important antique show that has been coming here for 55 years, we followed a drum beat to the central piazzas. Piazza Signorelli was filled with luxury autos…

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and in Piazza Repubblica, the flag bearers were performing to the beat of the drums.

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In addition, the weather was perfect – bright blue skies filled with sunshine and gentle breezes. Our friends proclaimed, “If we had ordered a perfect day, it would have been today!”

We ended the day at Le Celle, where St. Francis of Assisi spent part of his monastic life.

At Le Celle, we noticed these caper bushes growing on the stone walls. Amazing nature.

While we are having many visitors this fall, and look forward to sharing Cortona with them, it was particularly gratifying to see native Tuscans fall in love with Cortona. It is truly a special place – its ancient beauty, its warm people, and its fascinating history and culture. It is not a town that shuts down at sunset, nor a town that has an overabundance of tour groups. It is, as my friend Paula said, a town that works. Bravo Cortona.

Finally, I am proud to report that Giovanna and her friends were impressed with my Italian. When here, I am in language training 24/7, but I would never have progressed without Giovanna as my cara professoressa.

Grazie Giovanna, for coming to Cortona and for introducing us to your dear friends and now ours as well. Auguri!

Ciao,

Judy

For more on Le Celle, including photos and a short video I made a few years ago, please click here: https://blogginginitaly.com/2013/06/12/franciscan-hermitage-of-le-celle-cortona/

Tags: AD Braceria, Caffe Tuscher, Il Pozzo Gallery

Comments 10 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Food, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, Le Celle Cortona, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Life, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca

Familiarity

3 Sep

We awoke this morning to the sites, sounds and smells of Cortona – and fell into our familiar rituals. Morning cappuccino, an uphill 2.5 mile hike to Torreone, the “take your pick” downhill roads leading back to town, lunch at Caffe Tuscher, an afternoon nap, appertivo with friends, and a light dinner.

I’m reminded of a Peter Allen/ Carole Bayer Sager song, Everything Old is New Again:

Don’t throw the past away
You might need it some rainy day
Dreams can come true again
When everything old is new again

Exactly when we fell in love with Cortona is unclear – perhaps our very first day in June, 2011. We had long planned and dreamt about spending significant time in Italy, and for us, this continues to be the dream come true.

Seeing Cortona in the fall already brings a newness. Fewer people, many fewer children and strollers, and a final let up of the heat wave that surrounds Italy in the summer. The olives are ripening on the trees, the zucchini blossoms are gone, and the sun flowers are getting ready for harvest. But the incredible views

and the enticing smells coming from kitchens remain the same. Somethings just never get old.

This evening, as is customary on Thursday nights, a band played in Piazza Signorelli.

We joined the others and dined al fresco with friends. A perfect ending to a perfect day.

Dreams can come true again
When everything old is new again.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Caffe Tuscher

Comments 9 Comments
Categories Caffe, Cortona, Food, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Piazza Life

15 Sep

Recently, I read an article in a Chicago paper about a local community that created a new and different type of outdoor space. It’s a place where restaurants, shops, pedestrians and vehicles commingle. While this may be new to an Illinois community, it is a way of life in much of Europe, something that I have long referred to as Piazza Life.

What is it about Italian Piazza Life that is so appealing? Just about everything.

Each piazza has its own borders, if you will, created by beautiful ancient buildings that have been repurposed. An old prison is now a museum, a villa now a bank, and a stable now an enoteca.

The center of the piazza may have a fountain or statue, or be empty and provide a stage for any number of diverse events. Nowhere is this better seen than in Cortona, where Piazza Life is a way of life.

While there are several piazzas in Cortona, the two main ones are Piazza Republicca and Piazza Signorelli. They are physically adjacent to one another, yet each has its own identity and events.

You know you are in Piazza Republicca when you are facing the grand staircase of the Municipio or Municipal building.

While it is used for several city functions, it also provides a beautiful setting for many weddings where everyone in the piazza seems to join in the celebration.

In this piazza, you can sit in or outside of a number of cafes; shop at a grocery store, fruit market, wine store, or florist; and buy shoes, handbags, linens, and even a borselino, all actually made in Italy.

People gather, some doing their morning shopping, others stopping for a chat with friends.

Cars and cyclists navigate through pedestrians of all ages, and pop up performers are a common site.

Celebrations commemorating historical events are held here.

And while the piazzas are significantly quieter in the winter, they still draw people together for such delights as the incredible Christmastime lamp lighting celebration.