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Tuscher Caffé

22 Jun

One of our very favorite places in Cortona is Tuscher Caffé. The setting, food, ambiance, creativity, and especially the owners, make Tuscher a must when you visit Cortona. The beautiful caffé is open every day from 9-9, except Monday, serving delicious breakfast and lunch. In the evening, they serve drinks and very creative complimentary “happy hour”  hors d’oeuvres.

Massimo and Daniela, the proprietors, are among the hardest working people in Cortona. Most evident is their passion to preserve Italian fine culture in everything they do, as they make your visit most memorable. Just this week, as we were having lunch, three visiting American fine arts musicians entered and sat at the table next to us. As they looked around the beautiful two-story palace which houses the caffé, we heard one say, “Ah, la dolce vita!” We certainly agree.

Tuscher Caffé, www.caffetuschercortona.com, opened in 2003 in the beautiful Palazzo Ferretti on Via Nazionale. Massimo and Daniela named it after the building’s architect, Carl Marcus Tuscher, an architect and painter who worked in Italy from 1728-41. Seating is available inside and out in this international gathering place. In addition to having the good fortune to befriend the owners, we have met an array of interesting people from around the world, all who seem to have adopted Cortona as a second home.

Massimo, Daniela, sons Niccolo and Edoardo, and Lucky Luciano, the dog they found last year, are all on hand to make your visit memorable. See for yourself!  I’ve included a few photos from last year as well. (Touch bottom center of photos to progress at your own pace.)

Grazie, Massimo e Daniela, for your friendship and for sharing your wonderful Cortonese traditions with us.

Vi do un bacino, sempre!

Ciao,

Judy

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Fall in Love in Cortona

18 Jun

IMG_0006Italy is a popular destination for weddings, and Cortona ranks second, behind Venice, as the city of choice. Not difficult to see, as this lovely Etruscan town offers an incredible historic and romantic setting. I have written about weddings in the past, including one local wedding where the bride and her father arrived at the church in a horse-drawn carriage and another, a military wedding at the Municipio. Lovely.

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This past weekend, wedding planners hosted the first annual Fall in Love in Cortona weekend. Festivities included a broad display in the park of everything needed for a destination wedding including clothes for the bride, groom, attendees, and children; table settings; floral arrangements; make-up; honeymoon locations; food service; bar service, etc. On Saturday night, a speed dating event took place in the piazza. On Sunday night, a fashion show graced the steps of the municipal building. Wonder if any of the speed daters bought a dress on Sunday???

Not sure why the planners felt the need to make the steps of the Municipio look like the Arizona desert, but they did. They were filled with palms, sand, large pieces of drift wood, etc. It took several men all day. Oh, well, not my choice but the bridal dresses were beautiful.

From the first annual Fall in Love in Cortona:

In the Park:

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Sunday Evening Fashion Show

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As the sign says:

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Get married in style! Why not Cortona?

Ciao,

Judy

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Cortona Market Set up

8 Jun

If you wake early enough, you can watch the empty Piazza Signorelli come to life on Saturday morning and become the open market.  We have wondered how all the trucks arrive and set up, as the streets leading to the Piazza are narrow and steep. This morning we found out.

A truck that becomes a canopied stall looks like this when closed:

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Between 7-8 am, dozens of trucks maneuver through the narrow streets to reach their assigned  spaces. This truck actually made it through without hitting anything!

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In an ancient town like Cortona, one might expect market stalls to be rather simplistic. However, that is anything but true. These modern marvels are fascinating. If you have ever seen a factory with automation in full bloom, you’d still be impressed with the robotic mechanisms on these trucks which transform them into stand-alone self-sufficient markets.

As you can see in the video, articulated robotic arms open and move canopies and sides into all directions to become  open-air covered stores. Then the contents are moved outside, whether clothes, shoes, household goods or food.

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Gabriella and Luigi, our Saturday roasted chicken vendors, told us about their truck. We learned that there is a factory between here and Firenze that customizes each truck to fit the needs of the vendor. Some  just need canopies, while others, like them, require refrigeration and spit-fired roasters. Whatever the need, the factory can oblige. Some of the canopies are even opened by hand-held remote controls. Incredible!

Like so many other proprietors in town, the “roaming marketeers” are self-sufficient, hard-working people who cater to the needs of their customers. Some set up at multiple markets throughout the week, different towns, different days. Cortona is one of the smaller markets, so it is easy to get to know the vendors. They are helpful and always have a kind word and a smile. A most enjoyable morning and well worth an early start to this warm and sunny day!

Ciao,

Judy

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Buon Appetito…and Immersion!

1 Jun

A few years ago, knowing that my dream of travelling to Italy annually was about to begin, I began a two-year search for Italian classes. I wasn’t looking for academic credits, or a class filled with grade conscious students; rather, I wanted to join a group of like-minded adults who yearned to improve their knowledge of everything Italian –  the language, food, culture, holidays, nuances, etc. This also meant I needed to find a native Italian teacher, not someone who merely majored in the subject. Luckily, my search finally led me to Giovanna Dimetros. I must admit, her Greek last name puzzled me at first, until I learned it was her married name and she’s actually a native of Tuscany. Pictured below are Giovanna (left) and two classmates who hosted a dinner for our class last December at Giovanni’s (right) house. As you can see, we are big on immersion!

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Simply put, Giovanna’s classes provide me with more than I had hoped for. Each session is interactive, dynamic, challenging, and filled with great camaraderie. Of most importance is Giovanna’s desire to have us learn and understand what she teaches, not just memorize.

My goal was to reach a point where I no longer felt like a tourist in Italy, and while my learning will be a lifelong pursuit, I’m now comfortable conversing with locals who speak no English at all – a great tribute to Giovanna!

In our book, Unit 5 is called Buon Appetito, and we learned how to prepare a shopping list, go to market, and make lunch or dinner. Today in Cortona, we did just that. Our list included roasted chicken and turkey, cheeses, tomatoes, basil, bread sticks and vino.

While we order the roasted chicken weekly, our favorite “chicken lady” had a special this week: roasted and boned turkey leg with herbs. No antibiotics or preservatives…just incredible flavors and a heavy dose of fresh sage leaves and dill rolled inside. How does one have the patience to bone a turkey leg????

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We carried everything home and set out our feast. The only thing missing was all of you, and we could have fed all of you! Good for us we like left overs.

Mozzarella fresca e pomodorini

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Grana Padano Parmigiano

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Boned roasted turkey leg (left)  and roasted chicken (right)

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Una vera festa…A true feast!

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Even the constant rain decided to pester others today

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and granted Cortona a rain-free and sometimes even sun-filled day…

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Listening to Andrea Bocelli as I write…Perfetto!

And to my Italian class:

Vorrei che tu fossi qui per andare a fare la spesa con me e gustare un delizioso pranzo. E sto anche usando il passato e il futuro bene!

Ci vediamo a settembre! Ciao, ciao,

Giuditta

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Buona Festa di San Giuseppe!

16 Mar
Painting by Guido Reni, c.1635

Painting by Guido Reni, c.1635

Growing up in a neighborhood filled with many Irish and Italian families, I was always happy that the Italians also had their day in March to celebrate. Of course, never as loud, rowdy or perhaps quite as “fun” as St. Patrick’s Day, and with much quieter fanfare, we nonetheless celebrated the Feast of St. Joseph on March 19. And while the Irish had their green beer and accessories, the Italians, often sporting something red, had their zeppole, a cream filled fried pastry that originated in Napoli.

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According to my fellow blogger, MariaGiovanna, (Sharing My Italy) the “Zeppole di SanGiuseppe” originated in Naples, Italy, “where the first recipe was put on paper, in 1837, by the famous Neapolitan gastronome Ippolito Cavalcanti, Duke of Buonvicino.”

Fortunately, you don’t have to be in Italy to enjoy a zeppole. This morning, I headed to the Ferrara Bakery on Taylor Street in Chicago to check out the famous pastry. Light, airy and filled with cream, it was fun to see the smiles they generated on those wiping the cream from their lips.

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Not surprising, Ferrara’s was busy filling and selling what appeared to be hundreds of dozens of the cream filled gems.

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And since St. Joseph’s Day isn’t until March 19, you still have a few days to stock up!

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So, to those looking to get beyond the grey days of winter, here’s an idea – participate in a St. Joseph’s Day custom by sharing some food with the needy and some friends, and, of course, be sure to share some zeppole!

Ciao,

Judy

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Losing a Faithful Companion

25 Jan

About a week ago, the Sud Italia News shared a wonderful story about man’s, or woman’s as is this case, best friend. An article posted by Simona Giacobbi told the story of a kind woman, Maria Lochi, who had cared for stray dogs and cats for many years. At the young age of 57, Maria passed away. Maria was a regular at the church of Santa Maria Assunta in San Donaci, located in the province of Brindisi.

Ciccio, a 12 year-old German Shepherd, was Maria’s faithful companion. He accompanied her everywhere, including “attending” mass with her at the Church of Santa Maria. Two months ago, Maria was buried at the same church, and Ciccio “with his sad eyes” was among the mourners.

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Incredibly, since that day, Ciccio continues to go to Mass every day, hoping to see his beloved caretaker, Maria.

As reported in the Huff Post, UK, Father Donato Panna told the Daily Mail: ”He’s there every time I celebrate Mass and is very well behaved – he doesn’t make a sound, I’ve not heard one bark from him in all the time he has been coming in.

‘He used to come to Mass with Maria and he was obviously devoted to her – I let him stay inside as he was always so well behaved and none of the other parishoners ever complained to me.”

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According to the parish priest, Ciccio’s presence has deeply affected the parishioners, and no one would think of chasing him away. In fact, the residents of the town have decided to adopt him, ensuring he is fed and cared for.

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The story reminds me of Paco, my faithful companion of nearly 17 years. He was wherever I was, under foot or at my side, always with unconditional love, and of course, always hoping I’d drop something for him to eat.  So glad that the town’s people are taking care of  Ciccio.

Man’s best friend? You bet.

Ciao,

Judy

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The Morning After.6

15 Aug

Before we turned to leave, Marisa said one more thing to me. I smiled and nodded my head yes.

You may recall this as the ending to our meeting with the ladies. When I smiled and nodded yes, I was actually accepting Marisa’s invitation for breakfast the next day! Around nine the next morning, we walked down the long drive to their house.  I think Len was about to ask “Are you sure you understood her?” when they came around the house waving at us.

We exchanged hugs and buongiornos and a few minutes later they emerged with the largest croissants we had ever seen. They were filled with various jams and cremes and accompanied by rich espresso. Heavenly.

Once again, conversation flowed easily…we were like old friends now enjoying breakfast together, sharing our plans for the day, and soaking in what the experience had to offer. There were times I think all four of us were talking – and hearing – at the same time,  a great cultural skill if you happen to be from an Italian family.

We spent a lot of time talking about their home in Naples, a city where Len and I want to spend more time and also the birthplace of my maternal grandparents. Before long, they were inviting us to visit them in Naples! We exchanged phone numbers and mentally added this to our bucket list. Around 10:30, we finally bid our farewells. Lots of smiles, hugs, and promises to meet again. Oh, how we only hope!

After we left the ladies, we met with Emanuela, shared our stories about our dinner and our time with the ladies, then ordered some Pietranera to be shipped home. Each time we open a bottle we’ll relive these marvelous days and think fondly of our new friends.

Arrivederci ladies, and grazie for the most amazing memories!

Ciao!

Judy and Len

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The Owner.4

4 Aug

“My name is Judy,” I explained in my best Italian. “My husband and I are guests at the villa tonight.”

“Oh, they didn’t tell me anyone was staying here,” she replied in Italian, looking from me to her friend.

“I recognize you from your website – your face and smile!” I blurted out as it struck me I knew this lovely stranger’s face.

She smiled at me and we all relaxed enough that she invited me for coffee.

“Let me get my husband and I’ll be right back.” I didn’t want Len to miss this.

But back “at the ranch” when I told Len the ladies had invited us to coffee, he looked at me like I had two heads. “Let me get this straight…it’s 5:30 PM, and I’m going to leave the comfort of “our villa” and this wonderful array of wines to accompany you to have coffee with two women I’ve never met and not understand a word of the conversation.

“Right.” And then I smiled in a way that wives know how to do.

We walked down the long drive and I knew Len couldn’t believe we were actually going to visit with the owner of the estate. After all, he was the one who had done the research and found the estate after so many years.

We sat on their large, inviting patio overlooking a huge crystal blue pool on one side and the glorious sun laden hills of Montalcino on the other. They served us dark rich espresso they had just brewed. Marisa Centolani, her husband Giovanni Peluso, and their children own and operate the estate. He comes from Naples, where they still live much of the year. Maria, the lighter haired lady, is Marisa’s cousin who accompanied her on this trip as Giovanni was in Paris on business.

We talked about everything…our families, our travels, places in Italy we’ve visited and those we need to visit, politics, the state of the world, life in Italy, Italian musicians, the difference between the food, pizza, bread, etc., from north to south, the winery, the age and history of the buildings, Italian culture, and living life to its fullest. The conversation flowed easily between Italian and English, with me interpreting and everyone nodding, talking and engaged in the moment. This truly was the highlight of our trip. It’s impossible to describe the warmth and loveliness of this experience…four people, two sets of strangers, worlds apart yet brought together because of a shared passion for life in Italy at its best…no noise, no traffic, no tourists, no graffiti, no shops.

After two hours, we invited them to join us for dinner. They had already prepared food for themselves but encouraged us to head to Il Leccio at the highest point for the view and great food. After a round of hugs and photos, we expressed our heartfelt thanks and bid each other farewell. Before we turned to leave, Marisa said one more thing to me. I smiled and nodded my head yes.

Ciao!

Judy

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