Wishing you and yours a very
Merry Christmas!
And wishing our daughter Benita a very
Happy 21st Birthday!
Ciao!
Judy
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Feast of the Seven Fishes
24 DecIf you grew up in an Italian Catholic family, no doubt you will eat fish on Christmas Eve. La Vigilia di Natale, or The Vigil of Christmas, celebrates the anticipation of the midnight birth of baby Jesus. Similar to Ash Wednesday and Good Friday, meat is not eaten on Christmas Eve as part of the abstinence tradition. For Italians, of course, abstinence doesn’t mean not eating, just not eating meat. Instead, dinner is a large family meal celebrated with seven fishes and/or various seafood.
dreamofitaly.com
Why the number seven? No one knows for sure, but there are several theories. Two popular ones are that seven is the most repeated number in the Bible, appearing over 700 times. Another comes from Genesis 2:2: By the seventh day, God completed the work he had been doing; so on the seventh day he rested from all his work.
Whatever the number of dishes, traditionally the meal will include various pastas with seafood, sautéed and fried fish, and fish salads.
menuinprogress.com
LinguineclamsItlSeafoodDinnervikingrange.com
Whatever your Christmas Eve tradition, may it include a great meal shared with those you love.
Ciao,
Judy
Zampognari…Italian Bagpipers!
23 DecZampognari Keep Alive the Tradition of Festive Bagpipe Playing
Although we often associate bagpipers with the English and Scots, did you know that bagpipers are an important part of Christmastime tradition in Italy? Read on to discover the history.
Article reprinted from Italy Magazine, Barry Lillie | Monday, December 23, 2013 – 10:00
No Italian Christmas would be complete without the sound of bagpipes. Everywhere from the piazzas of Rome to remote hillside villages, the Zampognari (pipers) continue the tradition of festive bagpipe playing that dates back to ancient Roman times.
Traditionally, the pipers were shepherds who, in a bid to earn an extra income, would travel down from their mountain homes at Christmas time to perform for the townsfolk in their markets squares. The regions where you’re most likely to see a piper are Abruzzo, Basilicata, Campania, Calabria, Molise, Puglia and Lazio.
The traditional dress of the piper is made of short breeches with criss-crossed leather leggings, sheepskin vests with a woollen cloak and peaked cap; there are regional changes such as velvet jackets or neckerchiefs, but the look of the piper remains mostly the same it has for centuries.
Legend tells us that of the shepherds who visited the Virgin Mary in Bethlehem, after gazing upon the baby Jesus, some took out their bagpipes and played. In keeping with the legend, the pipers will stop at public Nativity scenes for a few minutes of quiet contemplation.
Historically, the piper is accompanied by a shawm, a medieval woodwind instrument; however, today’s pipers are usually accompanied by an oboe player. They play traditional music, with a popular song being the Christmas hymn, Tu scendi dalle stelle (You come down from the stars), written by Saint Alphonsus Maria de ‘ Liguori, the bishop of Sant’Agata de’ Goti.
Watch the zampognari play “Tu scendi dalle stelle”:
Makes me wonder if my paternal grandfather’s ancestors played the bagpipes as Alex’s family was from Abruzzo. Perhaps someday I’ll find a photo.
Ciao,
Judy
Through His Words: Reflections From and About My Grandfather
2 OctI am about to begin an incredible adventure with my paternal grandfather. We will venture to Europe, via ship, and spend a month together touring Italy. During our stay, we will visit his birthplace, Pietrabbondante, a town he left with his parents when he was four years old to emigrate to the United States.
In the year 1895 on the 9th day of January, Mr. Ruggiero di Salvo, Mayor and official of the Bureau of Vital Statistics for the city of Pietrabbondante, received information that at the hour of 4:00 A.M. on the 7th day of Jan. 1895, was born in Pietrabbondante a male child to whom the name of Allesandro was given, son of Vincenzo Iacapraro and Maria Emerenziana Vitullo.
Meet Alexander V. Capraro, my grandfather. An old, warn picture perhaps but a very handsome man indeed. We think this may have been his wedding day.
Now you may be wondering….born in 1895? 118 years old and taking me on a month-long trip? Exactly.
Although the Internet didn’t exist, and my grandfather only lived to the young age of 61, he was a blogger. Oh, they didn’t call it that at the time, but like so many others, he wrote about his experiences in the nearly lost art of letter writing. Fortunately, the letters were kept and are now in my possession. Thanks, Aunt Marion!
My grandfather was small in stature but large in accomplishment. He was the first Italian-American architect licensed in the state of Illinois and fortunately, a few of his buildings still stand for us to admire. Unfortunately for his grandchildren, however, he died before we really had a chance to know him. But now I plan to change that as I read through and relive his journey to his homeland in 1938. It was his only visit to Italy, and since my grandmother didn’t want to leave their three children, he wrote her daily. Over the next year, I will include parts of his story in my blog. Next summer, Len and I will visit his hometown and perhaps even find the home where he lived.
I am so excited to begin this journey and to share my experiences along the way. My love and connection to Italy continue to grow as I research the past and partake of the present. And while studying history is one thing, studying my paternal ancestors’ history through my Grandfather’s words is clearly another.
Over the next year, Through His Words: Reflections From and About My Grandfather will unfold as I read his letters, follow his footsteps, and get to know better the man I called Grandpa so many years ago.
Ciao,
Judy
Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, Cortona
20 SepSince it’s Friday, I was thinking about where I’d like to have dinner tonight. A simple choice would be Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, except for the fact that it is in Cortona and we are in Chicago. Oh, well, I can still think about what we might order after receiving a warm welcome from Alessandro, owner and always visible greeter.
The entrance to the two-story restaurant is on Via Roma, and you can choose indoor or limited outdoor seating. According to its website, “It was the first restaurant opened in the medieval town of Cortona, around 1904.” The word cacciatore means “hunter” in Italian, and the restaurant serves typical Tuscan dishes and “specialities including grilled meat chianina, ribollita and pici with meat sauce,” a local pasta favorite.
There’s an ample selection of wines to choose from, and the house wine is fine as well.
The food is very good, and the atmosphere and staff are always warm and inviting.
Whether we stop in for pizza and a tomato salad
or enjoy a leisurely dinner, there is always a nice variety to choose from.
Tonight, perhaps we’d start with an antipasto of cheeses and freshly sliced meats…
or order pici with speck and tomatoes.
After, we’d choose sliced steak with rosemary
or delicious roasted chicken, (my favorite!)
some hot off-the-grill veggies
and of course, wonderful roasted potatoes!
So simple, so delicious.
And to top off a most satisfying dinner, why not a little tiramisu? (It’s so much better in Italy!)
All in a night’s work, but then someone gets to do it. Just wish it could be us tonight!
Whether it’s just the two of us, or we are part of a large group, Ristorante IL CACCIATORE is one of our favorite go-to restaurants in Cortona.
Ciao,
Judy
Il Pozzo
14 SepOne of the things that makes Cortona unusual is the amount of art one can see in this lovely town. Two incredible museums, as well as many churches, are home to magnificent art and/or artifacts. Surely these are not to be missed.
But once you fall in love with the town, how can you take a piece of it home? That’s easy. Visit Il Pozzo.
Il Pozzo, meaning the well, is located just off the busy Via Nazionale. It doesn’t take long to get caught up in the music and art that fill the senses before even entering the gallery.
And while wonderful art treasures await, so does an unexpected architectural journey.
Meet Ivan, proprietor with his wife Loriana. Ivan is as happy to show you around the building and share its history as he is finding the right treasure for you to take home. He also speaks English quite well!
Paraphrasing and borrowing from their website description,
The voices of the busy Via Nazionale seem centuries of history away…
Visitors can contemplate the medieval ambiance uncovered two levels below the modern-day street, tastefully returned to the light with its ancient aspect and functionality.
One should not miss the unique well “ad ampolla” from which the Gallery “Il Pozzo” takes its name and in which there are traces of the ancient knowledge and architectural skill of the Etruscans ancestors’ civilization.
Here, nothing is left to happenstance and every wall, every nook and every shelf becomes a frame for an interesting detail, underlining the value of the artistic and artisan objects displayed.
The attention and interest of the visitor is fed with the variety of the paintings, photographs, prints, books, engravings, ceramics,
and artisan crafts such as leather-covered books, hand crafted papers, jewels and objects in glass
which are an integral part of the history and customs of Tuscany.
The Gallery “Il Pozzo” can be summed up as an encounter between Cortona and the visitor.
That said, it seems to correspond to the high level of historic and artistic tradition of the homeland of Signorelli, of Pietro Berrettini and of Gino Severini.
Everything here seems to court the taste and artistic sensibilities of the refined tourist of the new century.
This past summer, we found an original watercolor that seemed to have our name on it. Wonderful art has that quality – it somehow speaks to its eventual owner. Lucky for us, we brought some of ancient Cortona back to our home through this beautiful work by Allesandro Bulli. Not a day goes by that we don’t enjoy looking at it and reliving a story.
For us, this vividly captures many of our daily stops: morning cappuccino at a cafe, a local enoteca, the grocery store, a bit of the two main piazzas, a restaurant overlooking the historic center, etc.
Whether you are just browsing or looking for something special to purchase, there is never any pressure at Il Pozzo. If you do find something for yourself or for a gift, Ivan will carefully and beautifully prepare it for its journey home.
And, of course, prepare you an espresso while you wait!
So be sure to put Il Pozzo on your list of places to visit in Cortona, and tell Ivan and Loriana that Judy sent you. Your visit will be fun and fabulous, and give you the opportunity to take a little piece of Cortona home with you too. We’re so happy we did!
Ciao,
Judy
Feijoada
14 AugOne of the joys of international travel is exactly that…the international experience. In Italy, of course, we seek to absorb everything we can about the Italian culture – the people, the food, the language, the customs, the traditions. But sometimes, “locals” expand that experience for us in ways unexpected.
This summer, we had the good fortune to meet Vera, a recent “Cortona local” but non-Italian native. Born in Brazil, living in Australia and now also in Cortona, she is an interesting blend of many cultures, traditions, and languages, which I have fondly dubbed Veranese.
On a lovely summer evening, Vera invited us to her home to enjoy the national dish of Brazil, feijoada. Of course, I had never heard of this, let alone tasted it before, so I was curious.
But first things first. One of the added pleasures of being invited to someone’s home is the opportunity to learn about its history, as every home in Cortona has a story. Since most of the ancient palazzos and villas have been subdivided, Vera’s entrance was, at one time, the stable of this palazzo.
Fortunately, when renovations occur, antiquities are preserved so the horse trough still exists, although modified with plumbing at some point.
Adding to the charm is the old well, still visible behind the grate on the left, both outside her front door
and inside her home.
Enough history and on to the dinner. Feijoada (fay-ZHWA-dah) is considered one of Brazil’s national treasures and one that Vera wanted to share with us. It is a hearty, slow-cooked dish, meant to serve a group. Shopping for ingredients begins the day before, as several kinds of smoked meats, ribs, and beef jerky are needed. These are then slowly simmered the night before with black beans.
Needless to say the aroma was amazing when we entered the house, and even better as the feijoada was served over rice.
Although each cook may have his or her own family recipe, Brazilian Feijoada almost always has black beans and always has a mixture of salted, smoked and fresh meats. Some can be a little spicy; ours was not. Either way it’s traditional to serve this stew with white rice and maybe some sautéed vegetables.
Just before dessert was served, it started to rain, then hail heavily, and the ground turned white. Unpredictable July, and a good excuse to open more vino!
You can see just how bothered we were by the weather…
Before we left, Vera showed us her newest piece of art, a painted antique terra cotta tile. Beautiful! 
Vera, many thanks for inviting us into your lovely home, introducing us to one of Brazil’s national treasures, expanding our international palate, and teaching each of us to speak a bit of Veranese!
Ciao,
Judy
BBQ – Italian Style
20 JulIn the States, the word BBQ often conjures up hamburgers, hot dogs, chicken and ribs. Not so in Italy, however, where a BBQ is a multi course, typical Italian dinner, but all cooked on the grill. Lucky for us, Ivan and Loriana invited us to experience a backyard BBQ at their home.
To begin…pop the Prosecco!
Next, understand a bit about traditional Italian families. Three generations live in this house, which was built by Loriana’s parents Nello and Rina some 40 years ago. Not just a house, mind you, but also pristine fruit, vegetable and herb gardens, grapes, olive trees, a truffle-finding dog, rabbits, and just about anything needed to be self-sufficient.
To this day, every inch of the garden is planted and lovingly cared for by grandfather Nello.
After the garden tour, and some toasts all around, time to light the grill…
In Italy, “carbon” is used and burns more quickly than charcoal so it needs to be replenished several times.
First on the menu: antipasti – grill the Italian bread…
lightly rub with fresh garlic…
top with fresh tomatoes and basil from the garden…
add a slice of cheese, and serve. So simple, so fresh, so perfect!
Next, sauté porcini mushrooms, add some parmesan, and serve bubbling hot… Delicious!
As the plates were being cleared, the primo, or first course was being prepared.
Start with fresh Italian sausage…
Separate and butterfly, (of course!), then grill…ahhh, the aroma….
Next grill the ribs, no BBQ sauce required!
Serve with sautéed onions and peppers…my kind of BBQ!
We ate, drank, talked, laughed and toasted some more, and thought we were done until the hosts began to prep for the secondo, or main course of the evening.
Grill the zucchini…
Toss with olive oil…
Cut some fresh prosciutto while waiting…
Grill the steak…sprinkle with fresh rosemary…
Add some final touches and serve…
And turn this…
Into this…Incredible!
Throughout the evening, new acquaintances became friends as conversations flowed easily in Italian and English. For dessert, a variety of homemade liquors were spread across the table and accompanied by a choice of gelato. Smiles were abundant and the meal was incredible. But even more special for Len and me was the opportunity once again to experience local culture and norms, and to be included in the warmth and traditions of a local Italian family. Being at a dinner like this, it is easy for me to recognize and appreciate the roots of many of my own family traditions, often centered around sharing a meal with multiple generations of extended family members. A toast to traditions – may each generation keep them strong!
Our heartfelt thanks to Nello, Rina, Ivan and Loriana for sharing your home, your food, your talents and your friendship with us. It was a night we will always remember. Salute!
Ciao,
Judy
Unexpected Friendship Organization
9 JulEach summer, when we leave Italy, I try to reflect on the experiences we had and what we will miss most. Of course, we miss just about everything, but each year, certain things stand out. This year, what we will miss most is the people we met and the friendships we made, both local and non.
This was our third and longest stay in Cortona. Although we rented a car and drove about 800 kilometers to other cities and towns, we also spent more time getting to know Cortona locals and meeting Cortona repeaters, some who have been returning for more than 20 years.
Our local friend Massimo asked why so many of us return annually, although he truly knows the answer. Cortona is the kind of town where people can feel at home and experience a sense of belonging. The town is big enough, yet not too big. Busy enough, yet not always crowded. Faces become familiar; smiles are abundant; and the welcome mat is warm and genuine.
When I reflected on all the friendships we made, I decided to create a group called “unexpected friendship organization” and ran the idea by some Italian friends. Hence, UFO, (pronounced oo fo). This post is dedicated to all its members because each of you made our trip extra special this year. Salute!
Jim Henson said, “There’s not a word yet for old friends who’ve just met.” I think he’s right. One just needs to look at the smiles to recognize who they are.
Till next we meet…arrivederci – and a heartfelt thanks for the wonderful memories!
Ciao!
Judy and Len
ps…I still have much to write about and so many more photos to share, so please come back for more.
Casale della Torre
28 JunThis is the story of how a casual hello turned into a magical evening and more. Are people we don’t know truly strangers, or just not yet friends? Such was the case with a couple we met at a local cafe.
Almost every day, Len and I stop at Torreone, about two miles into our morning walk. That morning, we said buongiorno to a couple enjoying the view as they sipped their cappuccino. We talked a bit and discovered we were all Cortona repeaters, they more than we. Over the next few days, and in several locations in and outside of Cortona, we bumped into each other and met new members of their expanding group. Each time, we’d visit a little longer and wonder where our next encounter might be.
Larry and Carrol were staying at Casale della Torre, an agriturismo in Cortona.
Being “city” people, Len and I had never stayed in one or even visited one, although we knew many people loved them, as did our new friends. They had become close to the agriturismo’s owners, who one night per week, prepare a family feast for them. And one morning, Carrol and Larry graciously invited us to join them.
Len and I cherish opportunities to experience life with locals, and we knew this invitation would be just that. But we couldn’t have imagined just how magical the evening would be as Larry and Carrol started the dinner with a toast to all.
Casale della Torre is proudly owned and operated by Lapo and Paola Salvadori on land that has been in their family for generations (www.casaledellatorre.com).
Their daughters, Ilaria and Laura, were also on hand to help with dinner and join in the festivities. As Lapo poured his own bottled wine,
Paola was busy in the kitchen. First up, fresh porcini mushrooms.
She explained that there are two recipes, but she only uses the one passed on by her mother. Lucky for us!
These were served with various bruschette, all toppings freshly made in the kitchen.
During the day, Lapo had taught the house guests how to make cheese, including ricotta which is used to fill their ravioli as well as for dessert.
Their cellar is filled with what they grow and make, and the products are used in the special meals they prepare.
Next up, homemade ravioli for primo. And yes, the tomatoes are as rich as they look.
Add the homemade ravioli and a touch of freshly grated cheese, and smiles abound!
The weather dictated that the dinner be moved inside to their cantina, the lower level of one of the houses, and a perfect setting for a family gathering.
The secondi, or second course, included stuffed tomatoes,
rabbit (I ate it and it was delicious!)
and lamb, sorry no picture.
In between courses, Lapo entertained with a variety of music and dancing,
and at one point, called us all outside to see a 180° rainbow! The rainbow and picture are real. So very Lapo!
Not wanting dinner to get cold, Paola loudly called out in English “Hey, movie star!” and Lapo answers quickly.
We learned that Lapo is a man of many talents, and “movie star” refers to his several appearances in Under the Tuscan Sun. Next time you see the movie, look for him as he appears in several scenes throughout. Here’s a photo of him with the lady who wades in the fountain,
and here he is with Diane Lane and the producer.
But back to dinner. Once the food was served, Paola and her daughters joined the table and toasts were made. We talked and laughed so hard, tears were flowing. And of course, true to a great skill in our Italian culture, everyone was talking yet listening at once. Dinner was delicious…a tribute to Paola and her skill in the cucina!
Dessert consisted of the fresh ricotta made that day with two homemade marmellatas, fig and berry, and biscotti.
Then some “surprising” entertainment. Some of the men donned “Renaissance” costumes and presented limoncello along with Lapo’s Vino Santo, a dessert wine served after dinner. Suffice it to say, you had to be there. I’m so happy we were!
It is easy to see that Paola and Lapo are hard-working entrepreneurs who understand how to make a living as well as a life off the fertile Italian soil. They have raised two intelligent, well-educated daughters, operate a successful agriturismo, run a sheep farm, make wine and olive oil, grow and can fruits and vegetables, pass on their skills by teaching others, and most of all, share themselves and the love of their culture with those fortunate enough to meet them. Carrol and Larry happened upon them by chance some years ago, and their families have forever bonded. And because of their relationship, Len and I had the opportunity to become part of their extended family this very special evening.
To Carrol and Larry, Paola and Lapo, our heartfelt thanks for an evening we will always treasure!
To our new friends – such great memories!
All night long, conversations flowed easily in Italian and English around a dinner table with a 50 year age span. This is truly life at its best. And for us, participating in local Italian culture is another check on our bucket list.
If we have learned one thing as travelers, it is to never underestimate the power of a simple hello. Magical!
Ciao,
Judy
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