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Making Pasta with Paola

Last night, we were at Casale della Torre again for dinner with our friends Larry and Carrol. As usual, it was such a treat and always a learning experience with Lapo and Paola in the kitchen.

We arrived to find Paola making fresh pasta.

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Naturally, I had to try this myself.

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After a few tips, they said I passed. It was just to get me out of their way, I think.

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Next up, Paola’s fried veggies including zucchini flowers, zucchini, and onions, freshly picked from their garden.

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The men moved outside to enjoy the view and the Prosecco, and wait patiently for the appetizers to arrive. They were also in charge of grilling the sausage.

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Meanwhile, Paola opened the treasure chest from the freezer…porcini mushrooms Lapo had found last fall, and had saved for Carrol and Larry’s arrival dinner. Such a treat for all of us.

Lapo’s Porcini Find!

Frozen porcini sections – blogginginitaly.com

After appertivo on the veranda, we moved inside for dinner. Gustavo, a guest of Larry and Carrol’s, and the evening’s assistant chef, had requested Tripe. Yikes! But the men were all happy and said it was delicious. The ladies just looked on with eyebrows raised as the men enjoyed several servings.

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Gustavo was very grateful!

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Next was two kinds of pasta – one with ragu of chianna beef, a Tuscan speciality, and the second with mushrooms. These were followed by a salad from the garden and the grilled sausage. Delicious.

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Finally, dessert – peaches marinated in Lapo’s red vino, vanilla gelato with mint sprig, and my hostess gift apple torta.

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We quickly learned no evening is complete without a taste of Lapo’s homemade liquors.

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At the end of a very relaxing and fun evening, Lapo decided that Gustavo reminded him of Popeye. And why not – here is a man who, along with his brother, rode his bike from Mexico City to Toronto back in the 50s! Lacking a pipe, Lapo gave Gustavo a wooden spoon and actually lit it.

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Before we left, Paola and Lapo invited us to make cheese with them the next day. Fresh pasta Thursday, cheese on Friday. My cup runneth over!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Casale Delle Torre, Making fresh pasta

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Cortona, Food, Grilling in Italy, Italian countryside, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Lapo turns 60!

23 Jun

Last year, I wrote about the wonderful dinner we had at Casale delle Torre Agriturismo. Our dear friends Carrol and Larry, who rent there during the summer, had invited us to dinner

Carroll, Lapo, Larry – blogginginitaly.com

and it was there we met Lapo and Paola, the Agriturismo’s proprietors, and now also our friends.

Last night, we were again invited, this time to celebrate Lapo’s 60th birthday. The lovely women in the family, Paola, Ilaria and Laura, threw a surprise party for Lapo, and surprising him was no small feat!

The trees were filled with photos of fond memories of Lapo’s life.

Their wedding

Night gowns for two?

Pheasant Hunting

Sempre amore

Their two successful daughters

And a poster representing 60 years of Lapo’s work, with cheese, sheep and hay –

and place cards to match.

Place cards

The setting could have been in an Italian film, with one beautiful table set for 48.

Lapo’s Birthday table
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And a view no movie set could match.

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Our friend Larry was tasked with keeping Lapo busy from 3:30 till 8:00, not an easy assignment, but alas, they arrived, and we knew Lapo was surprised by the tears rolling down his cheeks.

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Appertivo was poolside, with music and dancing, of course!

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Lapo is a proud farmer who among other things raises his own sheep, and produces wine, olive oil and cheese – a man of many talents for sure.

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He is also affectionately known as “movie star” as he is the sheep herder in Under the Tuscan Sun and appears several times throughout the movie.

Dinner as you might imagine was several delicious courses, most of which I remembered to photograph before eating!

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Fagottini di Borraggione – blogginginitaly.com

Rosemary roasted potatoes
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smoked pork
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Toasts and speeches were made, and Paola read a poem she wrote in the local dialect. Even the Italians next to me from Bergamo didn’t quite understand, but there were plenty of laughs and smiles from those who did. We think we got the gist of it, however, from Paola’s antics!

Paola’s poem to Lapo
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Lapo
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While most were eating, Mother and daughter Laura were busy decorating the homemade cake, again with elements of Lapo’s life.

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Laura decorating the cake, blogginginitaly.com

And the final, very delicious product…

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After dinner, we moved poolside once again to sing Happy Birthday, then Lapo did the honors, fireworks and all!

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Time for more champagne and Lapo’s heartfelt gratitude to his wife and daughters for their love and hard work.

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Afterward, Ilaria read a tribute and followed it with a short and fun movie of Lapo’s life.

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Besides being a great husband and father, Lapo is also a caring and wonderful friend to so many. Just ask his family and friends.

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The evening, which began under the warm summer sunshine and ended under the stars, was filled with love, laughter and the happy celebration of a wonderful man by his loving family.

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Tanti auguri, Lapo!

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E un grande abbraccio,

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Ciao,

Judy e Leonardo

Tags: Casale Delle Torre, Lapo Salvadori, Lapo's 60th Surprise!

Comments 14 Comments
Categories Cortona, Food, Grilling in Italy, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Renting in Cortona, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, Cortona

20 Sep

Since it’s Friday, I was thinking about where I’d like to have dinner tonight. A simple choice would be Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, except for the fact that it is in Cortona and we are in Chicago. Oh, well, I can still think about what we might order after receiving a warm welcome from Alessandro, owner and always visible greeter.

The entrance to the two-story restaurant is on Via Roma, and you can choose indoor or limited outdoor seating. According to its website, “It was the first restaurant opened in the medieval town of Cortona, around 1904.” The word cacciatore means “hunter” in Italian, and the restaurant serves typical Tuscan dishes and “specialities including grilled meat chianina, ribollita and pici with meat sauce,” a local pasta favorite.

There’s an ample selection of wines to choose from, and the house wine is fine as well.

The food is very good, and the atmosphere and staff are always warm and inviting.

Whether we stop in for pizza and a tomato salad

or enjoy a leisurely dinner, there is always a nice variety to choose from.

Tonight, perhaps we’d start with an antipasto of cheeses and freshly sliced meats…

or order pici with speck and tomatoes.

After, we’d choose sliced steak with rosemary

or delicious roasted chicken, (my favorite!)

some hot off-the-grill veggies

and of course, wonderful roasted potatoes!

So simple, so delicious.

And to top off a most satisfying dinner, why not a little tiramisu? (It’s so much better in Italy!)

All in a night’s work, but then someone gets to do it. Just wish it could be us tonight!

Whether it’s just the two of us, or we are part of a large group, Ristorante IL CACCIATORE is one of our favorite go-to restaurants in Cortona.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cacciatore, Cortona, food, leisurely dinner, Restaurant in Cortona, restaurants, roasted potatoes, tuscan dishes

Comments 6 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Restaurant, Grilling in Italy, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian Hospitality, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Sagra della Bistecca

18 Aug

Each year, same time, same place, Cortona offers up the same wonderful steak-lover’s paradise. Cortona’s Ferragosto is an Italian chiana beef steak fest filled with celebration, amazing aromas, seasoned chefs and smiles galore.

As reported in a similar blog one year ago, the Latin “Feriae Augusti” denoted the “August Rest” which was a month-long holiday period proclaimed in the 18th century by Emperor Augustus. It was a time when people could relax after all the hard work associated with the harvest and the end of the year’s main agricultural work. It was also a time when nobility mixed with the workers.

Over time, the festival shortened to a few weeks and eventually became a one-day event, celebrated on August 15 each year. For Italians, this bank holiday combines elements of both ancient and Christian worlds, as August 15 also commemorates the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

Cities throughout Italy celebrate this day with great festivals. If you happened to be in Cortona, you no doubt enjoyed the annual Sagra della Bistecca, or beef steak festival, held in the normally quiet parterre, or public garden pictured here. A beautiful and moving war memorial graces the park’s entrance.

Beyond the statue lies this fountain, providing a quiet place to reflect or toss a penny.

And beyond the fountain is the expansive parterre, often silent beyond belief.

Of course, you might encounter the occasional dog walker.

Or the many cats who call the parterre home. But generally, count on a peaceful and mostly tourist free passeggiata, or Italian stroll.

For the festival, however, the quiet setting is completely transformed. An enormous grill, some 14-meters long, is erected. Locals don chef’s aprons, and with extra long forks, lovingly go about the work of grilling mouth-watering T-bone steaks, Italian sausages, and spareribs for the locals who have crowded the park to enjoy the celebration with family and friends.

Local wines and cheeses compliment the grilled meats and make for a perfect feast and day of relaxation. If interested, I’ve included a wonderful 2011 time lapsed You Tube clip of the Cortona event: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anpiFhse558

Hmmm… grilled steaks for dinner tonight? Definitely worth the calories.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: August 15, Cortona Beef Steak Festival, Ferragosto

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Cortona, Grilling in Italy, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

BBQ – Italian Style

20 Jul

In the States, the word BBQ often conjures up hamburgers, hot dogs, chicken and ribs. Not so in Italy, however, where a BBQ is a multi course, typical Italian dinner, but all cooked on the grill. Lucky for us, Ivan and Loriana invited us to experience a backyard BBQ at their home.

To begin…pop the Prosecco!

Next, understand a bit about traditional Italian families. Three generations live in this house, which was built by Loriana’s parents Nello and Rina some 40 years ago. Not just a house, mind you, but also pristine fruit, vegetable and herb gardens, grapes, olive trees, a truffle-finding dog, rabbits, and just about anything needed to be self-sufficient.

To this day, every inch of the garden is planted and lovingly cared for by grandfather Nello.

After the garden tour, and some toasts all around, time to light the grill…

In Italy, “carbon” is used and burns more quickly than charcoal so it needs to be replenished several times.

First on the menu: antipasti – grill the Italian bread…

lightly rub with fresh garlic…

top with fresh tomatoes and basil from the garden…

add a slice of cheese, and serve. So simple, so fresh, so perfect!

Next, sauté porcini mushrooms, add some parmesan, and serve bubbling hot… Delicious!

As the plates were being cleared, the primo, or first course was being prepared.

Start with fresh Italian sausage…

Separate and butterfly, (of course!), then grill…ahhh, the aroma….

Next grill the ribs, no BBQ sauce required!

Serve with sautéed onions and peppers…my kind of BBQ!

We ate, drank, talked, laughed and toasted some more, and thought we were done until the hosts began to prep for the secondo, or main course of the evening.

Grill the zucchini…

Toss with olive oil…

Cut some fresh prosciutto while waiting…

Grill the steak…sprinkle with fresh rosemary…

Add some final touches and serve…

And turn this…

Into this…Incredible!

Throughout the evening, new acquaintances became friends as conversations flowed easily in Italian and English. For dessert, a variety of homemade liquors were spread across the table and accompanied by a choice of gelato. Smiles were abundant and the meal was incredible. But even more special for Len and me was the opportunity once again to experience local culture and norms, and to be included in the warmth and traditions of a local Italian family. Being at a dinner like this, it is easy for me to recognize and appreciate the roots of many of my own family traditions, often centered around sharing a meal with multiple generations of extended family members. A toast to traditions – may each generation keep them strong!

Our heartfelt thanks to Nello, Rina, Ivan and Loriana for sharing your home, your food, your talents and your friendship with us. It was a night we will always remember. Salute!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Italian BBQ, Italy

Comments 1 Comment
Categories Cortona, Grilling in Italy, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italy, My Blog about Italy

Cortona: Back to Normal

2 Jun

Today, Sunday in Cortona, life back to normal, warm and sunny!

We hiked the hills

The men returned to their benches

The Saturday market was replaced by the Medieval Market:

Breads

Spices

Beans

Grilled local sausages

Ciaccia (fried dough)…note the cell phone!

Cheeses and local products

And the workers!

People have returned to the piazzas

Life is good!

Tomorrow, weather permitting, we take to the road, not sure which direction, and perhaps no internet. Stay tuned!

Just now, as I am finishing this, black clouds have filled the skies and the winds are swirling. Nonetheless, a wonderful day! Good we have those leftovers…

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cortona, Italian cuisine, Italy

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Cortona, Cortona Market, Food shopping in Cortona, Grilling in Italy, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Piazza Signorelli and Piazza Republicca

Cortona Sagra della Bistecca – Beef Steak Festival

18 Aug

Ferragosto…an Italian word filled with celebration.

The Latin “Feriae Augusti” denoted the “August Rest” which was a month-long holiday period proclaimed in the 18th century by emperor Augustus. It was a time when people could relax after all the hard work associated with the harvest and the end of the year’s main agricultural work. It was also a time when nobility mixed with the workers.

For the festival, the quiet setting is transformed. An enormous grill, some 14-meters long, is erected. Locals don chef’s aprons, and with extra long forks, lovingly go about the work of grilling mouth-watering T-bone steaks, Italian sausages, and spareribs for the locals who have crowded the park to enjoy the celebration with family and friends.

Photo: “Classic Tuscan Homes”

Local wines and cheeses compliment the grilled meats and make for a perfect feast and day of relaxation. If interested, I’ve included a You Tube clip of the Cortona event: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anpiFhse558

Hmmm… grilled steaks for dinner tonight?

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cortona Beef Steak Festival, Cortona Sagra della Bistecca, Ferragosto, Grilled steaks

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Cortona, Grilling in Italy, Italian Festival, Italian Food

A Simple Meal

19 Jun

Pork chops cut fresh off the rib by the butcher

Butcher

Just picked vegetables from the open market

Ladies buying veggies

Mozzarella from the mercato

Always fresh tomatoes

Carbonella (charcoal) in the grill

One inside chef …. One outside griller

Add a little vino….Delicious!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Caprese, Grilled pork, Grilled veggies

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Grilling in Italy, Italian Food, Italian WIne

Home Alone and Bistecca alla Fiorentina

14 Jun

Three weeks have passed and almost all of our guests and visitors have come and gone! Michael left for the U.S. on June 6; Sarah’s parents Elena and Alex on June 10; and Sandy and Larry today. Rome, Firenze, Pompeii, Napoli, Sorrento, Capri, Montalcino, Cortona…different cities woven into the various agendas, each providing new stories and lasting memories. We loved being with all of you and exploring old and new sights together. We miss you!

Our last dinner with Sandy and Larry was at Cacio Brillo, always a favorite of ours, and even more so now that they’ve expanded their menu. After dinner, the ladies continued on for dessert, the most amazing chocolate tort!

Tonight, with just the four of us home, we decided to fire up the grill and try our hand at some bistecca alla Fiorentina. Len and I went to the butcher just around the corner. She cut two huge on the bone steaks and gave us specific cooking instructions:

Rinse meat and pat dry; leave out of frig for about 30 minutes before cooking
Place on hot grill adding nothing to the meat
After about 5-7 minutes, turn over and salt cooked side
“Watch with your eyes” to not overcook, then remove meat from grill
Before serving, drizzle olive oil, then salt (pepper optional)
Finally, add a squeeze of lemon!

grilling steaks and zucchini

Chef Leonardo

Well, dinner was amazing! The aroma had neighbors opening their windows, but alas, only enough for four…(the bones were huge!) A salad with Italian tomatoes topped it all off, and from our garden, one single stem with five beautiful roses. Finally, Sandy and Larry, we opened one of your bottles of Pietranera and toasted to your safe travel home.

Arrivederci to you both!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: bistecca alla fiorentina recipe, charcoal grilling in Italy, Chiana beef, food

Comments 5 Comments
Categories Grilling in Italy, Italian Food

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Making Pasta with Paola

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Sagra della Bistecca

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