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The Dough Boys

14 Nov

What to do on a cold Saturday afternoon? Attend a pizza/ciabatta/focaccia class in my own home!

When I introduced Giovanni from my Italian class to my husband Leonardo, it was the beginning of a beautiful culinary relationship. Leonardo has long sought to perfect his pizza dough, ever since our trip to Napoli, and Giovanni is ever in search of the perfect ciabatta and focaccia. Hence, a joining of forces and a great learning and eating treat for those of us in the gallery.

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As dough rising is a many hour event, we were fortunate that Leonardo had made a few pizzas for us to enjoy during the lessons.

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Giovanni began with focaccia.

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He loved my apron, so I let him borrow it for the day.

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His recipe includes bread flour, yeast, salt, sugar and a potato;

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and then a lot of patience waiting for the dough to rise before gently pressing it in his well worn pan.

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He then tops it with tomatoes and oregano and a bit of oil.

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After more rising and then cooking it in a hot oven for 30-40 minutes, the result is a focaccia with a crunchy, tasty crust and a fluffy chewy inside. Delicious!

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While the focaccia was rising, Giovanni started the next lesson: how to make ciabatta.

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Unlike the focaccia, this starts with a BIGA or starter (yeast, water and flour) that is made well in advance.

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Flour is added to the starter, and after a few hours wait, it doubles in size.

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While waiting for Giovanni’s focaccia to rise, Leonardo began teaching us how to make pizza dough.

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Getting the yeast right is all important. Not too hot and not too cold or it won’t proof.

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He uses a blender to mix the 00 flour, yeast, salt and water.

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Like the other doughs, it then begins the slow rising ritual. When it has risen, Leonardo divides the dough and begins making pizzas.

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He tops them with a variety of things his “customers” request…this one had anchovies (yikes) onions and capers.

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My favorite is sautéed onions and peppers. Soooo good and cooked to perfection!

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With the pizzas gone, (yes, we ate them all!), time to return to finishing the ciabattas. We learned from Giovanni not to handle the dough much and unlike pizza, not to fold it. Giovanni cut the dough gently in the right shape and “gingerly” placed each one on parchment paper.

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After a bit more rising, they were baked in a hot oven until golden brown.

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We filled these with cheeses and meats, and yes, we ate them too! Warm and wonderful with the coveted holes in the bread.

Italian language class in the morning. Bread making in the afternoon. All in a day’s work –  filled with friends, food, fun, and lots of vino! (Giovanna, sorry you missed the photo op.)

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Thanks Leonardo and Giovanni for a wonderful class. We learned a lot, but mostly we learned that we love to eat whatever you cook!

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Hmmm…I think there’s a business here!

Ciao,

Judy

 

 

The Birth of a Cannoli

5 Nov

I stopped by the Ferrara Bakery in Chicago, originally founded and operated by my maternal grandparents, Salvatore and Serafina Ferrara

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and now by my cousin Nella and her husband Bill.

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Although I had stuffed hundreds of cannolis in my teenage years, a requirement of all granddaughters during the holidays, I don’t remember ever seeing the cannoli shells being made.  I was in for a treat.

Once the dough is mixed, it is put on the long work table – picture huge amounts of pizza-like dough, but brown from the spices and much, much heavier.

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After the bakers get the dough into a log shape, they cut it into large pieces

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which are then flattened by hand, folded in half, and dusted with flour.

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The dough is then fed through a press, creating long, thin sheets which are dusted heavily to prevent sticking.

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A form is used to cut the shapes

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which are then stacked and refrigerated overnight.

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The next day, the dough is rolled on metal tubes to create the cannoli shape

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and then fried to perfection!

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Eventually, the cannoli shell is stuffed with homemade cannoli cream

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and there you have it – an authentic Italian cannoli, made just like they still do in Italy.

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Delicious – before or after you order your lunch!

2210 W Taylor St, Chicago,  ©Blogginginitaly.com

2210 W Taylor St, Chicago,
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While some things have changed since my grandparents’ days, most notably the addition of a full menu lunch, the handmade pastries and cookies look, smell and taste the same. After all, why mess with a good thing!

Ciao,

Judy

 

 

 

 

Coffee Do’s and Don’ts

3 Oct

Since it’s International Coffee week, and since so many people love Italian style coffee, here are some great tips from Chef Favio Viviani for The Bialetti Company, the makers of the espresso pot found in every Italian home. I especially love the DON’TS! Enjoy.

Ciao,

Judy

Sunday Dinner

3 Sep

Missing everything about Italy, especially friends and food, I decided to try to replicate one of my favorites dishes. In Italy, pasta con ragu is pasta with meat sauce. The dish varies based on the region and the person in the kitchen, but it is usually a combination of meats stewed in tomatoes for hours.

At AD in Cortona, they call this paccheri with braceria sauce. Annalisa the chef says it is what her grandmother served every Sunday in Napoli when she was growing up, as it was an inexpensive means to serve many people. This is my attempt at her recipe.

I assembled my ingredients:

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Browned the meat:

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Sautéed the onions, then added tomato paste, herbs, and some figs for a slight sweetness:

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United the meat and the onions:

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Added the tomatoes, then turned the burner to low and started the slow, slow cooking:

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Like Annalisa’s grandmother, I decided to share my Sunday dinner, so I made a few calls, then whipped up some appertivo:

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And after about eight hours, we were rewarded with this!

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Great food (if I say so myself!), great conversation, great gathering! Felt just like Sunday dinner in Italy…

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Oh, and yes, we did have dessert… sautéed peaches with a dab of gelato and a ginger biscuit.

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Ciao,

Judy

 

Saturday’s Market

2 Aug

Missing Italy, and missing the usual Saturday mercato, we headed to our local city market early this morning.

Although we were tempted en route…

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we resisted, reminding ourselves of the morning pastry ritual we had decided to leave behind.

So on we went in search of what we would grill tonight, and we were not disappointed…

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Even the sun flowers were there to greet us…

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When we got home, our purchases looked like a beautiful watercolor…

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For lunch, I made a barley and farro salad with some of the veggies.

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Now if only I can stay awake long enough to cook dinner!

Ciao,

Judy

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Arrivederci Cortona – 2014

30 Jul

Some wonderful sights, sounds, smells, settings, 
and most of all,  salutes and smiles (and a bit of splash!)
that we will take home, in photos and in our hearts…

Sights:

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Bagnoli dei Trigno - blogginginitaly.com

Bagnoli dei Trigno – blogginginitaly.com

Gubbio - blogginginitaly.com

Gubbio – blogginginitaly.com

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Lago Trasimeno – ©Blogginginitaly.com

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Cortona – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Sounds:

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Terrenean Sea, Quercinella – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Marinelli Bell Foundry Agnone ©Blogginginitaly.com

Marinelli Bell Foundry, Agnone ©Blogginginitaly.com

Carmen in Cortona ©Blogginginitaly.com

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Smells:

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Pasta with Melon and Ham, Tuscher Cafe – blogginginitaly.com

Pasta Napoletana, AD, ©Blogginginitaly.com

Pasta Neapolitana, AD Ristorante, ©Blogginginitaly.com

Pasta with Mozarella, rocket and Tomatoes, Domus Hotel, blogginginitaly.com

Pasta with Mozzarella, Greens and Tomatoes, Domus Hotel, blogginginitaly.com

Eggplant a la Giovanna©Blogginginitaly.com

Eggplant a la Giovanna©Blogginginitaly.com

Fernanda's Green Peppercorn Filet - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Fernanda’s Green Peppercorn Filet and Garden Vegetables – ©Blogginginitaly.com

Settings (come rain or shine):

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Ivan, Lori & Tomas
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Lapo & Paola - ©Blogginginitaly.com

Lapo & Paola – ©Blogginginitaly.com

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Massimo & Daniela – ©Blogginginitaly.com

And most of all – Salutes:

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Smiles:

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And a bit of Splash!

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Grazie a tutti! 

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A prossimo!!! 

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Tanti Abbracci!

Giuditta e Leonardo

 

Ristorante El Comanchero

26 Jul

The stars at night are big and bright ….deep in the heart of ….

Cortona?

Yep, you read that right! Having lived in Austin for 10 years, I can recognize a bit of ol’ west cowboy, and believe me, there’s some in Cortona that’s as good as it gets. Really. So to my Austin friends, this one’s especially for you.

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In a million years, we would have never found this place, down a dirt road with as many twists and turns as a viper. But of course, it was no secret to Lapo and Paola. The sign reads Club House and American Saloon, but the front of the restaurant gives little indication of what awaits inside.

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And there it is – the dream realized of a born and bred cowboy, Franco. Note the resemblance in the painting.

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This is a 30+ year adventure of a man with a passion, “The Man who Lives on Horseback.”

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Watch your back, Clint…Franco’s got you cornered, and he has SIX Stetsons.

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And a collection gathered and also gifted by the many friends he has made over the years.

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I didn’t realize that my brother Bill left his Black Hawks jersey when he visited us here two years ago! (Actually, son Andrea picked up the jersey when in Chicago because of the Black Hawk.)

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This is a family run business and all are involved.

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Franco, Gianluca, Ornella, Andrea –
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But let’s not forget about the food!

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Son Andrea tells us about the menu and specials,

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while some appetizers are brought to the table.

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We let them decide our menu, and it was not only international but also delicious.

Gnocchi

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Pasta with ragu

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Bison steak from the U.S. or Canada,

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Local chianina beef with green peppercorns,

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Grilled pork from Spain.

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While we were eating, Franco entertained us with his pet owl, Archimedes. Seriously.

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And Andrea brought along a one-month old they found abandoned.

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After dinner, we moved to one of the verandas for dessert and caffe,

where the stars at night are big and bright,
and the views, they go on forever!

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and Franco served grappa, not tequila, from a glass rifle.

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Before leaving,  a few more photos with the family,

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including Franco and all the wannabe cowboys, (well at least for the night)!

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Although we have walked nearly every street in Cortona over the last four years, this was such an unexpected and very fun surprise. The address is Localita Piazzanella, 247/A, but I doubt that will help you find them on a map. Funny thing is, the next day I mentioned our dinner to some local friends, and they’ve all been here. Go figure!

My toast to friends both near and far, and all whom I hold dear… do like Franco,

Grab those reins, sit tall in the saddle,
and never let go of your dream.

Ciao,

Judy

 

Summer at the Seaside

25 Jul

July is the month many Italians go to the sea. This summer, we were invited to share in the experience with Anna and John, friends from Texas, at the summer home of Anna’s parents, Giovanna and Franco.

We headed to the Livorno area, the west coast of Tuscany situated on the Terranean Sea, for a few days of quiet relaxation, great conversation, delicious food, Italian hospitality, and incredible views.

The drive from Cortona took about an hour longer than expected due to some heavy downpours and overturned vehicles blocking exit ramps, but all that was quickly forgotten when we arrived and were met by our gracious hosts and a delicious homemade lunch.

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Then time for a passagiata, or walk, and a chance to take in the views of the sea, which was a bit rough for swimming but great for photos.

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After walking, hours of conversation, and brief naps, it was time for appertivo. John did the honors.

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The cheeses were delicious, including this one with whiskey,

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and this one with grappa.

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The gardener just happened to stop by with some porcini mushrooms. (Giovanna showing them to John.)

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Giovanna turned them into several dishes including this appetizer with shaved parmigiano and olive oil.

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Time for dinner.

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And finally, dessert. Giovanna actually made this for us for breakfast but I ate it all the time!

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The next morning, I learned that an “Italian lover” lived under our same roof but was not performing well. Anna and her mother believe that every woman deserves a lover, and one that meets expectations. This lover is named Giacomo.

It turns out, the lover of whom they speak is a robotic vacuum cleaner. Theirs was about 5 years old and had run out of steam, so to speak. So, off we ladies went to Euronics to purchase Giacomo Due (2).

With Giacomo Due safely in the trunk, I was treated to a tour of Livorno, a lovely port city, by the ever knowledgeable Giovanna.

Not sure the men missed us at all, but we were anxious to see how well the slimmer, sleeker Giacomo would perform. After reading the users’ manual online, Anna shares her findings with her mother.

Anna read the

Anna read the

After a three-hour charge, Giacomo is ready! Will he fit under the couch? The ladies are intrigued but not so Anna’s father, who is busy with world economics.

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The verdict is in, Giacomo Due stays! Time for lunch and wine tasting on the veranda as the winds have quieted.

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For dessert, peaches in white wine.

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Another walk along the sea wall…

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And, as Italians are prone to do, disregard the warning of falling rocks.

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The last night, we had a lovely dinner in the small town, giving Giovanna a rest from cooking.

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Many thanks to Giovanna and Franco for sharing your home and hospitality with us. We loved experiencing the Italian summer at sea. And to Anna and John, thanks for your friendship. We finally turned our goal of being in Italia together into a reality. Bravissimo!

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Ciao,

Judy

Ristorante AD Braceria

20 Jul

There is a wonderful new restaurant in Cortona called Ristorante AD Braceria. The ancient setting was rebuilt several times over many years from four small homes with a street down the middle and the building is still owned by the original family. What was the old street now runs through the center of the restaurant.

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Today, there are many intimate settings for dining…(if only these walls could talk!)

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Business partners Anna and Tito opened this wonderful restaurant which specializes in meat and fish, the latter being a great addition to Cortona, more known for Chianina beef. I felt an instant connection with Anna, as she is from Naples and her husband Marco is from Nola, southern towns where my maternal grandparents were born.

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Braceria can be translated as a carvery, or a place where they slice the meet to order, whether it is prosciutto, veal, or a chianina beef steak.

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At AD, the fish is always fresh.

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We have dined here many times with local and visiting friends and have enjoyed a variety of dishes each time.

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Our meals have been delicious and beautifully presented, and we often let Anna decide our menu. Here’s a sampling:

Shrimp carpaccio with burrata:

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Breaded Clams:

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Seafood salad with five grains:

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Salmon marinated with citrus fruits:

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Octopus salad with mashed potatoes:

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Mixed grilled seafood:

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Len having fun:

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Handmade fresh pasta stuffed with sea bass, shrimp and tomatoes:

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Rigatoni with artichokes, bacon and pecorino:

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Grilled chicken (wait time 35 minutes and well worth the wait!)

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Grilled fillet with rosemary:

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Handcut veal with rosemary:

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Fresh green beans with balsamic:

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And my very favorite –

Paccheri with braceria ragu (veal and pork):

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This pasta is a traditional peasant dish from Naples, made from the various cuts of meat, and simmered for 12 hours with tomatoes and wine. Note: THIS IS THE BEST PASTA I HAVE EVER EATEN!

As one might expect, the desserts are incredible.

Hot and dark chocolate cake with gelato:

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Daily fresh fruit sorbet, (on left) …Typical dessert from Napoli on right:

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We are delighted with the addition of this restaurant in Cortona. Incredible food in an incredible setting – Perfetto!

Ciao,

Judy

 

Making Cheese with Lapo

28 Jun

One day pasta, the next day cheese. What could be better than learning from two experts? My latest lesson: pecorino and ricotta.

Lapo began by explaining the process. The milk is fresh from their sheep and needs to be heated carefully.

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There is a special utensil used to stir the milk and cause the cheese bulk to form.

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An expert like Lapo doesn’t need a thermometer to know when it’s ready – instead, it’s all done by touch. In the meantime, while the milk is heating, he explains how they coat cheese before storing it. He demonstrates two methods – one using ash from the previous night’s grilling with added olive oil and the second from a tomato like paste made from his garden.

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The rounds are then stacked on their sides to allow air to circulate between them and are separated with walnut leaves, which impart a slight flavor.

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He shows us some storage barrels, one with hay and one with the dried walnut leaves. The first is from 1798. If you look closely at the second, you can see the rounds of cheese in them.

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Lapo knows the milk has reached the proper temperature when the tool stands upright unsupported.

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Then the twirling action begins… fast and precise…

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until the liquid separates from the cheese.

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blogginginitaly.com

We sample the cheese at this point and it is somewhat rubbery, a bit sweet, and without much taste.

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blogginginitaly.com

Thus far, Lapo is doing all the work, but now it is our turn to get involved. We are each given a portion of cheese and per instructions, are to hold and pinch the cheese carefully, slowly eliminating water from the cheese. Thanks, Carrol, for the great photos that follow.

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This is actually harder than it sounds, as it requires much patience and pressure from only fingers. When my fingers start to hurt, I use my palms, but alas, the master catches me in the act, so back to finger pinching for me.

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When Lapo is satisfied we have pushed out sufficient water, we empty our bowls for the next step.

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Time to turn the cheese over…

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Now we push, not pinch, with outstretched fingers.

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Lapo is not only watching us, but touching our hands to ensure they are warm from our body heat. Cold hands are not good for making cheese, and he announces that our hands passed…we are all about the same proper temperature.

After several rounds of pressing, my cheese begins to have a nice fragrance, so I give my friend Larry a whiff.

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This is the fruit of our efforts!

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In keeping with the tradition of using everything, Lapo takes the milky water we have pushed from our cheese and begins making ricotta. The liquid is carefully poured through a strainer to remove any clumps which would burn in the reheating.

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And then it is recooked, hence ricotta, until it reaches the proper consistency.

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As a reward for our hard work, Paola has prepared a lovely lunch on the veranda.

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blogginginitaly.com

First, samples of young and aged pecorino with toasted bread, small sausage bites with olives, and the class is very happy!

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blogginginitaly.com

Then Paola treats us to Cace e Pepe, a simple pasta made with pecorino, parmegiano, and pepper.

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Finally, we are treated with the ricotta made in class, topped with fig jam. Delicious.

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Quite full, and content with our work, I get the class to pose for a photo reminder of the great day!

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blogginginitaly.com

Our pecorino won’t be ready for about 10 weeks, but in the meantime, we each have a certificate to remind us of what we learned. Here’s a sample of Lapo’s Lessons:

1. Nothing can replace passion and dedication when it comes to quality, and patience is paramount.

2. Everything from the garden is better.

3. Cheese is like your body; if your body is too cold or hot, the cheese is too cold or hot, so move it.

4. Share what you make with others.

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Finally, before leaving, I had to snap a picture of the setting where I not only learned to make cheese but also experienced the love and passion of carrying on traditions from generation to generation.

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Grazie Lapo e Paola!

Ciao,

Judy