After many years in Cortona, I thought we had visited most towns and villages that surround Lake Trasimeno, but not surprisingly, there is always another gem to discover. Knowing we love fresh fish, some friends suggested we head to Ristorante Da Massimo in San Feliciano, Umbria. The restaurant is nestled on a quiet hill overlooking the lake.
Meet Massimo, chef and proprietor of this over 25 year-old restaurant.
We began with appetizers, and they were so good, we jumped right in and I didn’t get photos. Len and I shared an enormous plate of spaghetti con vongole (clams), one of the best we have eaten in Italy, while our friends shared a mixed seafood appetizer – first cold seafood then hot.
While this is not what we ate, I was able to get a photo of this spaghetti with mixed seafood.
For our second course, Len and I shared grilled spigola, or sea bass, and it was delicious!
Our friends ordered the oven roasted version with potatoes and olives.
To accompany our meal, we drank a light sparkling white wine, perfect with seafood.
After coffee, we decided to take a walk in the town. From Cortona, the winding scenic ride along the lake eventually brings you to this small fishing village, perhaps “on the map” as it is one of the places you can catch a ferry to Isola Polvese in the lake. San Feliciano is about 35-45 kilometers from Cortona, depending on your route.
Being that it was a weekday, and not quite summer, the town was quiet and we had much of it to ourselves. Not sure how busy it gets in summer, but there are campgrounds nearby, so our timing was perfect. In addition, in late July each year, the town hosts the annual Festa del Giacchio, a festival that pays tribute to an old fishing technique dating back to Etruscan times. Although the technique is no longer used on the lake, during the festival there are demonstrations, competitions, and opportunities to participate in all kinds of events.
Len has long wanted to rent a small boat and fish in Lake Trasimeno, and San Feliciano seems to fit the bill perfectly. Perhaps the best part for me is that Len can throw back whatever he catches, and after a relaxing day, we can all eat well at Ristorante Da Massimo, no fish cleaning or cooking required.
Ristorante Da Massimo and San Feliciano, two great additions to our list of favorite places!
Ciao,
Judy
How wonderful! What a picture perfect day. I hope that next time there will be fishing in Lake Trasimeno!
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Len too! xoxo
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Great that after all these years in the area you’re still finding new restaurants that are exciting
Vincent J. Connelly
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So true, and especially one that specializes in seafood, although they have meat dishes and pizza too!
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Looks like a good time
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Was indeed!
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Judy that is PERFECT! Seafood makes up a large part of our diet here in LA and, even though the meat is wonderful in Cortona, we missed seafood. We usually feed that craving by going to a favorite restaurant in Fiumincino on our way in and out but now you have given us a new source. Many thanks!
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Jean, I think you will love both the drive and the restaurant!
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Joe and I will try San Felicianio for sure when we are there in June. Thank you!
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So happy to share!
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That sea bass looks amazing!!! Beautiful photos as always 😊
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Thanks, and I’m sorry I didn’t get a photo of the spaghetti con vongole. Other than in Monreale, Sicily, it was the best we have ever had!
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Thank you for sharing this
Culinary treat
The presentation was
remarkable
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Thanks, Royce, A treat we will return to often!
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Oh my god – I’m drooling over the fish ! Gorgeous place – Happy early birthday !! Xoxox
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Thanks – you’d love this place!
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Sounds terrific. We’ll definitely try it in September !!! Always exciting to find new go to places to add to our list 😍
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A great addition for sure!
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Looks so appealing !!!!! Gustavo asks whether Len has gone ahead with plans to write his book? Sending best regards to you both. Affectionately, Gustavo and Hilary
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