Archive | 2014

Summer at the Seaside

25 Jul

July is the month many Italians go to the sea. This summer, we were invited to share in the experience with Anna and John, friends from Texas, at the summer home of Anna’s parents, Giovanna and Franco.

We headed to the Livorno area, the west coast of Tuscany situated on the Terranean Sea, for a few days of quiet relaxation, great conversation, delicious food, Italian hospitality, and incredible views.

The drive from Cortona took about an hour longer than expected due to some heavy downpours and overturned vehicles blocking exit ramps, but all that was quickly forgotten when we arrived and were met by our gracious hosts and a delicious homemade lunch.

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Then time for a passagiata, or walk, and a chance to take in the views of the sea, which was a bit rough for swimming but great for photos.

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After walking, hours of conversation, and brief naps, it was time for appertivo. John did the honors.

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The cheeses were delicious, including this one with whiskey,

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and this one with grappa.

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The gardener just happened to stop by with some porcini mushrooms. (Giovanna showing them to John.)

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Giovanna turned them into several dishes including this appetizer with shaved parmigiano and olive oil.

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Time for dinner.

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And finally, dessert. Giovanna actually made this for us for breakfast but I ate it all the time!

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The next morning, I learned that an “Italian lover” lived under our same roof but was not performing well. Anna and her mother believe that every woman deserves a lover, and one that meets expectations. This lover is named Giacomo.

It turns out, the lover of whom they speak is a robotic vacuum cleaner. Theirs was about 5 years old and had run out of steam, so to speak. So, off we ladies went to Euronics to purchase Giacomo Due (2).

With Giacomo Due safely in the trunk, I was treated to a tour of Livorno, a lovely port city, by the ever knowledgeable Giovanna.

Not sure the men missed us at all, but we were anxious to see how well the slimmer, sleeker Giacomo would perform. After reading the users’ manual online, Anna shares her findings with her mother.

Anna read the

Anna read the

After a three-hour charge, Giacomo is ready! Will he fit under the couch? The ladies are intrigued but not so Anna’s father, who is busy with world economics.

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The verdict is in, Giacomo Due stays! Time for lunch and wine tasting on the veranda as the winds have quieted.

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For dessert, peaches in white wine.

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Another walk along the sea wall…

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And, as Italians are prone to do, disregard the warning of falling rocks.

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The last night, we had a lovely dinner in the small town, giving Giovanna a rest from cooking.

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Many thanks to Giovanna and Franco for sharing your home and hospitality with us. We loved experiencing the Italian summer at sea. And to Anna and John, thanks for your friendship. We finally turned our goal of being in Italia together into a reality. Bravissimo!

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Ciao,

Judy

Ham and Cheese, Please

22 Jul

Looking for an afternoon snack?

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and a few added reds?

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Throw in a little romance…

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And something to toast with…

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Salute!

Ciao,

Judy

Ristorante AD Braceria

20 Jul

There is a wonderful new restaurant in Cortona called Ristorante AD Braceria. The ancient setting was rebuilt several times over many years from four small homes with a street down the middle and the building is still owned by the original family. What was the old street now runs through the center of the restaurant.

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Today, there are many intimate settings for dining…(if only these walls could talk!)

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Business partners Anna and Tito opened this wonderful restaurant which specializes in meat and fish, the latter being a great addition to Cortona, more known for Chianina beef. I felt an instant connection with Anna, as she is from Naples and her husband Marco is from Nola, southern towns where my maternal grandparents were born.

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Braceria can be translated as a carvery, or a place where they slice the meet to order, whether it is prosciutto, veal, or a chianina beef steak.

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At AD, the fish is always fresh.

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We have dined here many times with local and visiting friends and have enjoyed a variety of dishes each time.

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Our meals have been delicious and beautifully presented, and we often let Anna decide our menu. Here’s a sampling:

Shrimp carpaccio with burrata:

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Breaded Clams:

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Seafood salad with five grains:

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Salmon marinated with citrus fruits:

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Octopus salad with mashed potatoes:

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Mixed grilled seafood:

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Len having fun:

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Handmade fresh pasta stuffed with sea bass, shrimp and tomatoes:

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Rigatoni with artichokes, bacon and pecorino:

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Grilled chicken (wait time 35 minutes and well worth the wait!)

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Grilled fillet with rosemary:

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Handcut veal with rosemary:

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Fresh green beans with balsamic:

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And my very favorite –

Paccheri with braceria ragu (veal and pork):

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This pasta is a traditional peasant dish from Naples, made from the various cuts of meat, and simmered for 12 hours with tomatoes and wine. Note: THIS IS THE BEST PASTA I HAVE EVER EATEN!

As one might expect, the desserts are incredible.

Hot and dark chocolate cake with gelato:

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Daily fresh fruit sorbet, (on left) …Typical dessert from Napoli on right:

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We are delighted with the addition of this restaurant in Cortona. Incredible food in an incredible setting – Perfetto!

Ciao,

Judy

 

I Hope We Dance

18 Jul

Lee Ann Womack’s signature song, written by Tia Sillers and Mark Sanders, is called “I Hope You Dance”. It won the Grammy Award for Best Country Song and also the Country Music Award for Song Of The Year in 2001, and for good reason – it has such a great “hook” line:

And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance.
I hope you dance….I hope you dance.

Last night, at about 11:30 PM, the lyrics of the song came to me as we joined others in Piazza Republicca after dinner. A band was playing, people were gathering, and a few of us started dancing with the lead singer.  Surrounded by ancient buildings, the words seem to fit perfectly for old and young alike…

I hope you never lose your sense of wonder, (Go Len!)

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I hope you still feel small when you stand beside the ocean, (or amazing antiquities!)

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(or comfortable dancing with the lead singer!)

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May you never take one single breath for granted,
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Give the heavens above more than just a passing glance,
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And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance,
I hope you dance….I hope you dance.
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According to Sillers, this song is about taking chances and not being afraid to try something new. In our travels, and in life in general, may we always choose to dance!
Ciao,
Judy
For more of Lee Ann Womack’s signature song, click below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seeing the Blues

16 Jul

in Montepulciano,

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And sipping the Reds!

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All in a good day’s work.

Ciao,

Judy

Gubbio

15 Jul

A fun and interesting way to help improve foreign language learning is through TV. Len and I watch a number of Italian detective series including Commissario Montalbano, filmed in Sicily, and Don Matteo, filmed in Gubbio. Besides hearing the language, (and having English subtitles!) the shows often provide lovely views of their filming locations.

A few days ago, we took a drive to Gubbio to find the sights associated with the Don Matteo series, even though it seemed a bit touristy. Don Matteo, played by Terrence Hill, is the priest in Gubbio who casually helps the police captain and marshall solve the weekly murder mystery. In fact, I doubt there is even an annual murder let alone a weekly one. Nonetheless, we wanted to see the beautiful sights so often shown in the show.

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And lastly, “Don Matteo’s Church”…IMG_3092

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Gubbio, such a lovely town!

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Ciao,

Judy

How to Say “Yellow” in Italian…

13 Jul
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Ciao,

Judy

Marinelli Bell Foundry – Agnone

11 Jul

Before returning to Cortona from the Pietrabbondante area, we made one last stop. Agnone is the capital of the highest part of Molise, and also home to the world-famous Pontificia Marinelli Bells Foundry. The foundry continues to produce hand-made bells the same way they were made in the Middle Ages and their bells can be found in churches and bell towers throughout the world.

We almost didn’t get to see the foundry as we couldn’t find it. Several people told us it was next to the market, but we thought we misunderstood as a foundry wouldn’t be in the middle of a town. After our 4th attempt, we had about given up when we came across two men on bicycles. After I asked about the foundry, one told us to follow him, he on his bike, we in our car. He pedaled hard and fast uphill, about one half mile, then stopped in front of the market. To our right was a tiny driveway, lined with trees. We hadn’t considered that the town had built up around the foundry! Finally, we arrived thanks to the kindness of that man on bicycle. And what a find it was!

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From their website:

Campane Marinelli foundry has a very long history; the first bell was made around the year one thousand and since then their work has been a long sequence of successes and honors. One of the most significant honors that the foundry can boast is the possibility to use the Papal Arm Coat in their production; it was Pope Pio XI in 1924 to grant that privilege to the foundry.

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The tour guide was great, explaining how bells are made in both Italian and English, and patiently answering our questions.

The tour began with a movie showing the entire bell making process. Then we were treated to a demonstration by a “master” playing scales and songs on a number of bells (hanging on the right below). We learned that each bell has only one note, a perfect pitch.

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In the next room, we saw where the artists create each bell’s decorations.

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Finally, we were taken to the museum where we learned more about the four major steps of bell making.

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The museum contains “twins” of many famous bells. They are called twins, as opposed to duplicates, because no two bells are exactly the same as the molds are broken during the manufacturing process. Some very interesting twins include the bells commemorating the unification of Italy,

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and the bells honoring the new pope saints, Pope Saint John Paul II and Pope Saint John XXIII.

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Each new Pope receives a bell in his honor, the latest being Papa Francesco.

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Another bell (campane) in the museum commemorates the incredible kindness of an American family after a terribly tragic event. Their young son Nicholas was killed while they vacationed in Calabria. The family chose to donate the boy’s organs to seven local Italian children. Some years later, the seven families had a bell made with Nicholas’ name and the name of the seven children who survived as a result of this family’s incredible courage and generous gift of life. The bell was shipped to Nicholas’ family in Bodega Bay California where a memorial dedication was held.

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Touring the Marinelli Foundry and learning about the bells was an extremely interesting experience for us. I have always loved the sound of bells ringing, but had never thought about how the bells are made or where they come from. And now I know.

Here’s a brief clip from Marinelli Foundaria. Enjoy!

Ciao,

Judy

Bagnoli dei Trigno

8 Jul

Last winter, when I started making plans to visit Pietrabbondante, I noted that the town did not have any hotels, but listed some nearby. I booked the closest one, as it had a few good online reviews, and never really thought about it again.

After our wonderful visit to Pietrabbondante, we headed to Bagnoli dei Trigno where the hotel was located, a town close as the crow flies, but about 30 minutes by car as we had to head down one “hill” and up another. Len said it was the curviest road he had ever been on, one switchback after another.

Finally we came to an intersection: Bagnoli dei Trigno was one direction, and the Domus Hotel another. Since this was our hotel, we headed left, followed the road around a large curve looking for a tiny hotel, and came upon this…

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and even better, this incredible view!

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It turns out our hotel is a medical/sports/health spa, large, lovely, very clean and only three years old. Interestingly, there was only one other hotel guest that night, but it was a Monday.

We were hungry after a long morning in Pietrabbondante and they were more than happy to prepare lunch for us. This is a vegetable flan on one side and suckling pig on the other…I forgot to take a photo before Len and I split it, but you get the idea…fresh and delicious, and prepared only when ordered.

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After lunch, we strolled around the property, sat in the sun, and marveled at the view.

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I also had a massage, and why not since this was a health spa. For dinner, we enjoyed their homemade pasta with local tomatoes and fresh mozzarella from the region.

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I don’t really know much about the town of Bagnoli dei Trigno except that as of the end of 2004, it had a population of about 850 living in fourteen square miles. What I do know is that from the hotel, it is a sight to behold, especially from our vantage point at sunset.

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The next day, we visited the town of Bagnoli. The few people we spoke to were very friendly and a nice man even opened his market/bar/cafe to make us fresh paninis. The newer part of the city is at the base, with the ancient part still somewhat inhabited. We were told that the Lombards built the castle at the top, although it was closed for reconstruction so we weren’t able to get near. What we did find was a very quiet ancient city, actually much lovelier from a distance.

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This is a view looking at our hotel (center) from the top of the ancient town.

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At night, our hotel put on its own light show.

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Per their brochure, Domus offers dancing under the stars as well as concerts on weekends. A perfect setting for sure! They even have a wood burning pizza oven which is large enough for seven pizzas at once.

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Such a pleasant surprise and an incredibly relaxing stay in a tiny hill top town. As we left Bagnoli, we couldn’t help but look once more at the vista we will long remember.

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Ciao,

Judy

 

 

Cortona Liberazione

6 Jul

Today in Cortona, the locals celebrated 70 years since the liberation of their city in 1944.

With proud veterans

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and original military vehicles and equipment,

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Italians and members of the Great Generation Airborne Group (dressed as British and American soldiers), stood at attention

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as a wreath was laid.

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Songs were sung and people joined in the parade

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vowing never to forget those who served and liberated their ancient and lovely town.

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Ciao,

Judy