Tag Archives: Cortona

Il Pozzo

14 Sep

One of the things that makes Cortona unusual is the amount of art one can see in this lovely town. Two incredible museums, as well as many churches, are home to magnificent art and/or artifacts. Surely these are not to be missed.

But once you fall in love with the town, how can you take a piece of it home? That’s easy. Visit Il Pozzo.

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Il Pozzo, meaning the well, is located just off the busy Via Nazionale. It doesn’t take long to get caught up in the music and art that fill the senses before even entering the gallery.

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And while wonderful art treasures await, so does an unexpected architectural journey.

Meet Ivan, proprietor with his wife Loriana. Ivan is as happy to show you around the building and share its history as he is finding the right treasure for you to take home. He also speaks English quite well!

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Paraphrasing and borrowing from their website description,

The voices of the busy Via Nazionale seem centuries of history away…

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Visitors can contemplate the medieval ambiance uncovered two levels below the modern-day street, tastefully returned to the light with its ancient aspect and functionality.

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One should not miss the unique well “ad ampolla” from which the Gallery “Il Pozzo” takes its name and in which there are traces of the ancient knowledge and architectural skill of the Etruscans ancestors’ civilization.

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Here, nothing is left to happenstance and every wall, every nook and every shelf becomes a frame for an interesting detail, underlining the value of the artistic and artisan objects displayed.

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The attention and interest of the visitor is fed with the variety of the paintings, photographs, prints, books, engravings, ceramics,

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and artisan crafts such as leather-covered books, hand crafted papers, jewels and objects in glass

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IMG_0056which are an integral part of the history and customs of Tuscany.

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The Gallery “Il Pozzo” can be summed up as an encounter between Cortona and the visitor.

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That said, it seems to correspond to the high level of historic and artistic tradition of the homeland of Signorelli, of Pietro Berrettini and of Gino Severini.

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Everything here seems to court the taste and artistic sensibilities of the refined tourist of the new century.

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This past summer, we found an original watercolor that seemed to have our name on it. Wonderful art has that quality – it somehow speaks to its eventual owner.  Lucky for us, we brought some of ancient Cortona back to our home through this beautiful work by Allesandro Bulli.  Not a day goes by that we don’t enjoy looking at it and reliving a story.

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For us, this vividly captures many of our daily stops: morning cappuccino at a cafe, a local enoteca, the grocery store, a bit of the two main piazzas, a restaurant overlooking the historic center, etc.

Whether you are just browsing or looking for something special to purchase, there is never any pressure at Il Pozzo. If you do find something for yourself or for a gift, Ivan will carefully and beautifully prepare it for its journey home.

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And, of course, prepare you an espresso while you wait!

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So be sure to put Il Pozzo on your list of places to visit in Cortona, and tell Ivan and Loriana that Judy sent you. Your visit will be fun and fabulous, and give you the opportunity to take a little piece of Cortona home with you too. We’re so happy we did!

Ciao,

Judy

Gelato

26 Aug

Whether you’ve been to Italy many times, or hope to visit someday, eating gelato is no doubt on your list. As the summer heat intensifies, what better way to cool your palate and bring a smile to your face than with some delicious gelato.

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Gelato is Italy’s version of ice cream, yet tastes much better. Why? I wondered, and did a little research. Although I am much better at enjoying gelato than making it, here are three major differences I discovered:

  1. Gelato generally has less than 10% butterfat, compared to ice cream’s typical 18-25+ range. The lower butterfat causes the gelato to melt in your mouth faster and provides an immediate blast of flavor.
  2. Air is not added to gelato, giving gelato a higher density than most ice cream. This density results in gelato’s rich taste and very creamy texture.
  3. Although gelato is a frozen dessert, it can be served at a temperature 10°+ warmer than ice cream, adding to its creamier consistency.It's the picture of Italian ice-cream in a sho...

It seems as though you can find a gelateria, or ice cream store, in just about every town in Italy. Some have several, and the larger cities seem to have one on every corner. Cortona has several.

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Although gelato is almost always good, the taste and quality can vary. I tend to shy away from outdoor ones in direct sunlight. You can just tell.

Gelato is typically presented in stainless tubs in large cooled glass displays.

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Some newly designed modern displays are even becoming popular.

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Cup or cone? Large or mini? Whatever you prefer.

Gelato Cones (Florence)

Need free samples to decide? Assolutamente!

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As for flavors, think of the rainbow, or better yet, a large box of new crayons. Pink and yellow are not just added colors.

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You can often expect actual pieces of fruit in the frutta gelato such as peach, pineapple, mango, banana or apricot. Creme are the creamy gelatos such as chocolate, vanilla, hazelnut, caffé, and pistachio.

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What’s the most popular? Seems to be chocolate, although it comes in many varieties such as dark, extra dark, fudge, milk, etc. And the names seem to be as creative as the flavors. Learning them is like Intro to Italian I.

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Gelato 2 (Photo credit: minonda)

So, whatever your palate, there is always one flavor to please…in fact, probably several.  Thanks, Grandpa!

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And of course, don’t worry if it starts to drip a bit. Besides tasting great, gelato is always finger licking good!

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Gelato anyone?

Ciao,

Judy

Feijoada

14 Aug

One of the joys of international travel is exactly that…the international experience. In Italy, of course, we seek to absorb everything we can about the Italian culture – the people, the food, the language, the customs, the traditions. But sometimes, “locals” expand that experience for us in ways unexpected.

This summer, we had the good fortune to meet Vera, a recent “Cortona local” but non-Italian native. Born in Brazil, living in Australia and now also in Cortona, she is an interesting blend of many cultures, traditions, and languages, which I have fondly dubbed Veranese.

On a lovely summer evening, Vera invited us to her home to enjoy the national dish of Brazil, feijoada. Of course, I had never heard of this, let alone tasted it before, so I was curious.

But first things first. One of the added pleasures of being invited to someone’s home is the opportunity to learn about its history, as every home in Cortona has a story. Since most of the ancient palazzos and villas have been subdivided, Vera’s entrance was, at one time, the stable of this palazzo.

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Fortunately, when renovations occur, antiquities are preserved so the horse trough still exists, although modified with plumbing at some point.

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Adding to the charm is the old well, still visible behind the grate on the left, both outside her front door
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and inside her home.IMG_0005

Enough history and on to the dinner. Feijoada (fay-ZHWA-dah) is considered one of Brazil’s national treasures and one that Vera wanted to share with us. It is a hearty, slow-cooked dish, meant to serve a group. Shopping for ingredients begins the day before, as several kinds of smoked meats, ribs, and beef jerky are needed. These are then slowly simmered the night before with black beans.

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Needless to say the aroma was amazing when we entered the house, and even better as the feijoada was served over rice.

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Although each cook may have his or her own family recipe, Brazilian Feijoada almost always has black beans and always has a mixture of salted, smoked and fresh meats. Some can be a little spicy; ours was not. Either way it’s traditional to serve this stew with white rice and maybe some sautéed vegetables.

Just before dessert was served, it started to rain, then hail heavily, and the ground turned white. Unpredictable July, and a good excuse to open more vino!

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You can see just how bothered we were by the weather…

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Before we left, Vera showed us her newest piece of art, a painted antique terra cotta tile.  Beautiful! IMG_0005

Vera, many thanks for inviting us into your lovely home,  introducing us to one of Brazil’s national treasures, expanding our international palate, and teaching each of us to speak a bit of Veranese!

Ciao,

Judy

Unexpected Friendship Organization

9 Jul

Each summer, when we leave Italy, I try to reflect on the experiences we had and what we will miss most. Of course, we miss just about everything, but each year, certain things stand out. This year, what we will miss most is the people we met and the friendships we made, both local and non.

This was our third and longest stay in Cortona. Although we rented a car and drove about 800 kilometers to other cities and towns, we also spent more time getting to know Cortona locals and meeting Cortona repeaters, some who have been returning for more than 20 years.

Our local friend Massimo asked why so many of us return annually, although he truly knows the answer. Cortona is the kind of town where people can feel at home and experience a sense of belonging. The town is big enough, yet not too big. Busy enough, yet not always crowded. Faces become familiar; smiles are abundant; and the welcome mat is warm and genuine.

When I reflected on all the friendships we made, I decided to create a group called “unexpected friendship organization” and ran the idea by some Italian friends. Hence, UFO, (pronounced oo fo). This post is dedicated to all its members because each of you made our trip extra special this year. Salute!

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Jim Henson said, “There’s not a word yet for old friends who’ve just met.” I think he’s right. One just needs to look at the smiles to recognize who they are.

Till next we meet…arrivederci – and a heartfelt thanks for the wonderful memories!

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Ciao!

Judy and Len

ps…I still have much to write about and so many more photos to share, so please come back for more.

Happy 4th from Cortona!

4 Jul

I can always find an American flag flying proudly in Cortona…American flag

Even this little girl was in on the act last night in the piazza

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Happy Birthday, America!

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Ciao,

Judy

Cortona: Then and Now

3 Jul

Cortona – 3 July 1944,  liberation.

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Then (photo by G. Lamentini)IMG_0003

Now. (Photo by yours truly.) Same place, same day, 69 years later.

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Lest we forget. Cortona war memorial.

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Peace.

Ciao,

Judy

Foods of Tuscany

25 Jun

Be it simple or spectacular, the food in Cortona always pleases. Whether eating in a bar, a trattoria, or a restaurant, the ingredients are fresh and used in an array of creative dishes.

From salumi to steak

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From formaggio to fondue

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From panini (or bruschette) to pizza

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From pasta to pasta to pasta

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And for dessert, from gelato to gastronomic

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End with a touch of espresso and some food for thought:

Anonymous:
La cucina di un popolo è la sola esatta testimonianza della sua civiltà.
(The cuisine of a country is the only exact attestation of its civilization.)

Virginia Wolf:
Uno non può pensare bene, amare bene, dormire bene, se non ha mangiato bene.
(One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one hasn’t eaten well.)

A toast to good eating!

Ciao,

Judy

Fall in Love in Cortona

18 Jun

IMG_0006Italy is a popular destination for weddings, and Cortona ranks second, behind Venice, as the city of choice. Not difficult to see, as this lovely Etruscan town offers an incredible historic and romantic setting. I have written about weddings in the past, including one local wedding where the bride and her father arrived at the church in a horse-drawn carriage and another, a military wedding at the Municipio. Lovely.

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This past weekend, wedding planners hosted the first annual Fall in Love in Cortona weekend. Festivities included a broad display in the park of everything needed for a destination wedding including clothes for the bride, groom, attendees, and children; table settings; floral arrangements; make-up; honeymoon locations; food service; bar service, etc. On Saturday night, a speed dating event took place in the piazza. On Sunday night, a fashion show graced the steps of the municipal building. Wonder if any of the speed daters bought a dress on Sunday???

Not sure why the planners felt the need to make the steps of the Municipio look like the Arizona desert, but they did. They were filled with palms, sand, large pieces of drift wood, etc. It took several men all day. Oh, well, not my choice but the bridal dresses were beautiful.

From the first annual Fall in Love in Cortona:

In the Park:

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Sunday Evening Fashion Show

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As the sign says:

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Get married in style! Why not Cortona?

Ciao,

Judy

Franciscan Hermitage of Le Celle, Cortona

12 Jun

The Franciscan Hermitage of Le Celle, one of the most beautiful and spiritual places in Cortona, was built in the foothills of Monte S. Egidio in a natural gorge carved out by a stream.

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This hill-top monastery, a few miles from the center of Cortona, was founded in 1211 by St. Francis of Assisi and some of his followers. It was then they built the original nine “cells” providing the Hermitage with the name Le Celle ever since.

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When you enter the area, you are reminded of the nature of the holy space as well as encouraged to be open to all it has to offer.

Brothers and Sister, the presence of St. Francis of Assisi has sanctified this place…

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In 1226, a few months before his death, St. Francis dictated his will here. Brother Elia is credited with carrying out the details of the will and ensured that the Hermitage reflected all aspects of Franciscan life. It is believed he created the chapel, shown below, in front of the small “cell” where St. Francis lived for a few years. (Friar Chuck, thinking of you as we walked the grounds.)

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The door from the chapel to St. Francis’ cell is shown upper right.  His small cell, shown below, is just large enough for a bed (wooden plank far wall), a table and a chair, as prescribed by St. Francis himself.

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Over the years and after the death of Brother Elia, Le Celle had different religious occupants and was eventually abandoned. In 1537, however, the Capuchins, the Third Order of Franciscans, took over the facility. They enlarged the Hermitage and in 1634, erected a new chapel shown below, dedicated to St. Anthony of Padua. The simple architecture of the chapel reflects the unpretentiousness of the Capuchins. The altar is made of wood and there are no paintings or decorations.

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Today, Le Celle is home to seven Capuchin Friars and offers lodging to those considering vocational life.

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The amazing structure is as serene as it is beautiful, especially in the early evening as the sun is setting over the valley.

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Because there has been so much rain this spring, this waterfall, usually dry in June, is running at full speed.

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Hoping that I learned enough from my brief iMovie lessons, I leave you with a few sights and sounds of Le Celle.

Ciao,

Judy

Giostra dell’Archidado 2013

10 Jun

Once again, and as repeated every year, the people of Cortona celebrate and reenact the 1397 wedding of Francesco Casali and Antonia Salimbeni. Over many days, and with great pomp and circumstance, they fill the piazzas with medieval markets, craft fairs, traditional food, medieval games, falconry, and various forms of entertainment including musicians, flag throwers, fire eaters and jesters. The more serious events include the celebration of Santa Margherita, Cortona’s patron saint; the wedding reenactment; and the crossbow competition. For the latter, five areas of Cortona, called quintiere, each have a team that competes. Last year, our neighbor Vincenzo and his team won. And this year, they repeated, so we were delighted.

Here are some of the sights and sounds of the weekend.

Flag throwers exhibition, one of many…

Participants…think Renaissance Fair, but serious!

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Spectators: not so serious!

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Best Hairdo!

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The Victors:

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The Victors’ Parade. (Note: as my neighbor Vincenzo approaches to give me a hug, video is affected!)

Another weekend in Cortona filled with history, passion and great fun!

Ciao, and Complimenti ai vincitori!

Judy