Blogging In Italy

15,000+ Views!

I am delighted to report that this week, Blogginginitaly.com surpassed 15,000 views! Pretty amazing, especially as it began as a fun way for me to share our travels with family members and a few friends.

Over the last two years, my blog has been my journal, giving me a place to record my thoughts, experiences and pictures as we travel around Italy.

To my surprise and delight, its reach has broadened and now includes viewers from over 80 countries.

Many thanks for all your thoughtful comments and encouragement. Writing my blog is an endless learning curriculum for me – one that is filled with never-ending yet truly satisfying homework.

It’s a joy to share my reflections about Italy with others who love it so, and a privilege to share it with those who can only dream of going.

I can think of no better way to say thanks than by sharing some of my very favorite views.

And of course, let’s not forget the food!

Finally, to Len, with whom I have seen all of these views,

a little something we saw on a hillside…

Ciao, Judy

Tags: Driving in Tuscan Hills, Italian Food, Italy, travel, Tuscan countryside

Comments 9 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian countryside, Italian Food, Italian History, Italian WIne, Italy, Le Celle Cortona, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany, Umbria

Gelato

26 Aug

Whether you’ve been to Italy many times, or hope to visit someday, eating gelato is no doubt on your list. As the summer heat intensifies, what better way to cool your palate and bring a smile to your face than with some delicious gelato.

Gelato is Italy’s version of ice cream, yet tastes much better. Why? I wondered, and did a little research. Although I am much better at enjoying gelato than making it, here are three major differences I discovered:

Gelato generally has less than 10% butterfat, compared to ice cream’s typical 18-25+ range. The lower butterfat causes the gelato to melt in your mouth faster and provides an immediate blast of flavor.
Air is not added to gelato, giving gelato a higher density than most ice cream. This density results in gelato’s rich taste and very creamy texture.
Although gelato is a frozen dessert, it can be served at a temperature 10°+ warmer than ice cream, adding to its creamier consistency.

It seems as though you can find a gelateria, or ice cream store, in just about every town in Italy. Some have several, and the larger cities seem to have one on every corner. Cortona has several.

Although gelato is almost always good, the taste and quality can vary. I tend to shy away from outdoor ones in direct sunlight. You can just tell.

Gelato is typically presented in stainless tubs in large cooled glass displays.

Some newly designed modern displays are even becoming popular.

Cup or cone? Large or mini? Whatever you prefer.

Need free samples to decide? Assolutamente!

As for flavors, think of the rainbow, or better yet, a large box of new crayons. Pink and yellow are not just added colors.

You can often expect actual pieces of fruit in the frutta gelato such as peach, pineapple, mango, banana or apricot. Creme are the creamy gelatos such as chocolate, vanilla, hazelnut, caffé, and pistachio.

What’s the most popular? Seems to be chocolate, although it comes in many varieties such as dark, extra dark, fudge, milk, etc. And the names seem to be as creative as the flavors. Learning them is like Intro to Italian I.

Gelato 2 (Photo credit: minonda)

So, whatever your palate, there is always one flavor to please…in fact, probably several. Thanks, Grandpa!

And of course, don’t worry if it starts to drip a bit. Besides tasting great, gelato is always finger licking good!

Gelato anyone?

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cortona, gelato, Ice cream, Italy

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Cortona, Food shopping in Cortona, Italian Food, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Sagra della Bistecca

18 Aug

Each year, same time, same place, Cortona offers up the same wonderful steak-lover’s paradise. Cortona’s Ferragosto is an Italian chiana beef steak fest filled with celebration, amazing aromas, seasoned chefs and smiles galore.

As reported in a similar blog one year ago, the Latin “Feriae Augusti” denoted the “August Rest” which was a month-long holiday period proclaimed in the 18th century by Emperor Augustus. It was a time when people could relax after all the hard work associated with the harvest and the end of the year’s main agricultural work. It was also a time when nobility mixed with the workers.

Over time, the festival shortened to a few weeks and eventually became a one-day event, celebrated on August 15 each year. For Italians, this bank holiday combines elements of both ancient and Christian worlds, as August 15 also commemorates the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

Cities throughout Italy celebrate this day with great festivals. If you happened to be in Cortona, you no doubt enjoyed the annual Sagra della Bistecca, or beef steak festival, held in the normally quiet parterre, or public garden pictured here. A beautiful and moving war memorial graces the park’s entrance.

Beyond the statue lies this fountain, providing a quiet place to reflect or toss a penny.

And beyond the fountain is the expansive parterre, often silent beyond belief.

Of course, you might encounter the occasional dog walker.

Or the many cats who call the parterre home. But generally, count on a peaceful and mostly tourist free passeggiata, or Italian stroll.

For the festival, however, the quiet setting is completely transformed. An enormous grill, some 14-meters long, is erected. Locals don chef’s aprons, and with extra long forks, lovingly go about the work of grilling mouth-watering T-bone steaks, Italian sausages, and spareribs for the locals who have crowded the park to enjoy the celebration with family and friends.

Local wines and cheeses compliment the grilled meats and make for a perfect feast and day of relaxation. If interested, I’ve included a wonderful 2011 time lapsed You Tube clip of the Cortona event: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anpiFhse558

Hmmm… grilled steaks for dinner tonight? Definitely worth the calories.

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: August 15, Cortona Beef Steak Festival, Ferragosto

Comments 2 Comments
Categories Cortona, Grilling in Italy, Italian Festival, Italian Food, Italy, My Blog about Italy, Tuscany

Feijoada

14 Aug

One of the joys of international travel is exactly that…the international experience. In Italy, of course, we seek to absorb everything we can about the Italian culture – the people, the food, the language, the customs, the traditions. But sometimes, “locals” expand that experience for us in ways unexpected.

This summer, we had the good fortune to meet Vera, a recent “Cortona local” but non-Italian native. Born in Brazil, living in Australia and now also in Cortona, she is an interesting blend of many cultures, traditions, and languages, which I have fondly dubbed Veranese.

On a lovely summer evening, Vera invited us to her home to enjoy the national dish of Brazil, feijoada. Of course, I had never heard of this, let alone tasted it before, so I was curious.

But first things first. One of the added pleasures of being invited to someone’s home is the opportunity to learn about its history, as every home in Cortona has a story. Since most of the ancient palazzos and villas have been subdivided, Vera’s entrance was, at one time, the stable of this palazzo.

Fortunately, when renovations occur, antiquities are preserved so the horse trough still exists, although modified with plumbing at some point.

Adding to the charm is the old well, still visible behind the grate on the left, both outside her front door

and inside her home.

Enough history and on to the dinner. Feijoada (fay-ZHWA-dah) is considered one of Brazil’s national treasures and one that Vera wanted to share with us. It is a hearty, slow-cooked dish, meant to serve a group. Shopping for ingredients begins the day before, as several kinds of smoked meats, ribs, and beef jerky are needed. These are then slowly simmered the night before with black beans.

Needless to say the aroma was amazing when we entered the house, and even better as the feijoada was served over rice.

Although each cook may have his or her own family recipe, Brazilian Feijoada almost always has black beans and always has a mixture of salted, smoked and fresh meats. Some can be a little spicy; ours was not. Either way it’s traditional to serve this stew with white rice and maybe some sautéed vegetables.

Just before dessert was served, it started to rain, then hail heavily, and the ground turned white. Unpredictable July, and a good excuse to open more vino!

You can see just how bothered we were by the weather…

Before we left, Vera showed us her newest piece of art, a painted antique terra cotta tile. Beautiful!

Vera, many thanks for inviting us into your lovely home, introducing us to one of Brazil’s national treasures, expanding our international palate, and teaching each of us to speak a bit of Veranese!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Cortona, Feijoada, Food of Brazil, Italy, travel

Comments 4 Comments
Categories Cortona, Italian Hospitality, My Blog about Italy

Pizza and More

2 Aug

Missing our Italian friends and food, and knowing that imitation is the best form of flattery, Len and I headed to the market (as in “specialty” supermarket) last Saturday morning. What started out as a pizza dinner for seven slowly transformed into a bit more, but who was counting courses. All present had been to Italy with us sometime in the past several years, so it was a good reason to share a meal and wonderful memories.

It was too cold (in July?) to enjoy the beautiful geraniums on our deck,

so we moved inside to eat:

And eat we did!

From my garden, I made homemade pesto:

and tomato bruschette: (homemade but not from my garden!)

All served with toasted garlic-rubbed Italian bread rounds.

Then some freshly sliced Italian salumi and cheeses:

And a perfect melon!

Plus eggplant alla Judy:

All accompanied by Prosecco, our new primo tradition.

For the next course, it was time for Len to take over in the kitchen and perform his pizza magic. He made the dough the night before…only slow rise, of course!

After reaching room temperature, he gently rolled each pizza:

Topped each per request:

And cooked quickly!

The pizzas were served with grilled veggies:

Italian sausage:

And some great wine!

Feeling like we’re back in Italy…priceless!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Antipasti, Egglplant, Italian Food, Italian sausage, Pizza

Comments 12 Comments
Categories Italian Food, My Blog about Italy

Pitigliano

29 Jul

Often the word “marvel” is used to describe huge skyscrapers…modern marvels built with the latest in technological advancements, built to withstand nature’s strongest elements and built to stand the test of time. This being the case, then what word aptly describes the truest technological marvels that have more than survived nature’s strongest elements and survived for centuries? What word can we possibly use to describe places like Pitigliano, a stunning medieval town dramatically perched atop a tufa ridge?

While Len and I love traveling by train and bus in Italy, one of the benefits of occasionally renting a car is the opportunity to explore the more remote areas. Situated between Roma and Firenze, and east of Grosseto, the Hills of Maremma in Tuscany is one of those areas. The Hills are filled with non-traditional Tuscan landscapes and amazing surprises around each bend.

There are several towns in the area, but the most stunning to me is Pitigliano, a medieval town built on tufa or volcanic rock. When you hear medieval, think 500-1500 time frame. Houses and buildings in town are built on sheer cliffs that appear suspended over the valley, and sit above a network of caves and tunnels said to have been inhabited in prehistoric times. Fortunately, there are places to pull over as this is a photo-op must.

In the 16th century, Pitigliano became a haven for Jews escaping enclosed ghettos in neighboring cities. Today, visitors can still see parts of the ancient Jewish Quarter; a 16th century aqueduct; a few beautiful churches; a 14th century fortress which houses a museum and medieval torture chamber; and sometimes even tour the underground tunnels and caves.

Pitigliano, Italy, at night (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

While only about 300 people still live in Pitigliano in southeastern Tuscany,

The Municipality of Pitigliano within the Province of Grosseto, Tuscany, Italy (Wikipedia)

this ancient structure still stands and functions – deeming it not just a marvel, but truly marvelous!

MARVELOUS…A word befitting!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Grosseto, Italy, Maremma, Pitigliano, Tuscany

Comments 7 Comments
Categories Etruscan Ruins, Italian Art, Italian countryside, Italian History, Italy, Medieval, My Blog about Italy, Tuscan hill views, Tuscany

BBQ – Italian Style

20 Jul

In the States, the word BBQ often conjures up hamburgers, hot dogs, chicken and ribs. Not so in Italy, however, where a BBQ is a multi course, typical Italian dinner, but all cooked on the grill. Lucky for us, Ivan and Loriana invited us to experience a backyard BBQ at their home.

To begin…pop the Prosecco!

Next, understand a bit about traditional Italian families. Three generations live in this house, which was built by Loriana’s parents Nello and Rina some 40 years ago. Not just a house, mind you, but also pristine fruit, vegetable and herb gardens, grapes, olive trees, a truffle-finding dog, rabbits, and just about anything needed to be self-sufficient.

To this day, every inch of the garden is planted and lovingly cared for by grandfather Nello.

After the garden tour, and some toasts all around, time to light the grill…

In Italy, “carbon” is used and burns more quickly than charcoal so it needs to be replenished several times.

First on the menu: antipasti – grill the Italian bread…

lightly rub with fresh garlic…

top with fresh tomatoes and basil from the garden…

add a slice of cheese, and serve. So simple, so fresh, so perfect!

Next, sauté porcini mushrooms, add some parmesan, and serve bubbling hot… Delicious!

As the plates were being cleared, the primo, or first course was being prepared.

Start with fresh Italian sausage…

Separate and butterfly, (of course!), then grill…ahhh, the aroma….

Next grill the ribs, no BBQ sauce required!

Serve with sautéed onions and peppers…my kind of BBQ!

We ate, drank, talked, laughed and toasted some more, and thought we were done until the hosts began to prep for the secondo, or main course of the evening.

Grill the zucchini…

Toss with olive oil…

Cut some fresh prosciutto while waiting…

Grill the steak…sprinkle with fresh rosemary…

Add some final touches and serve…

And turn this…

Into this…Incredible!

Throughout the evening, new acquaintances became friends as conversations flowed easily in Italian and English. For dessert, a variety of homemade liquors were spread across the table and accompanied by a choice of gelato. Smiles were abundant and the meal was incredible. But even more special for Len and me was the opportunity once again to experience local culture and norms, and to be included in the warmth and traditions of a local Italian family. Being at a dinner like this, it is easy for me to recognize and appreciate the roots of many of my own family traditions, often centered around sharing a meal with multiple generations of extended family members. A toast to traditions – may each generation keep them strong!

Our heartfelt thanks to Nello, Rina, Ivan and Loriana for sharing your home, your food, your talents and your friendship with us. It was a night we will always remember. Salute!

Ciao,

Judy

Tags: Italian BBQ, Italy

Comments 1 Comment
Categories Cortona, Grilling in Italy, Italian Food, Italian Hospitality, Italian WIne, Italy, My Blog about Italy

Unexpected Friendship Organization

9 Jul

Each summer, when we leave Italy, I try to reflect on the experiences we had and what we will miss most. Of course, we miss just about everything, but each year, certain things stand out. This year, what we will miss most is the people we met and the friendships we made, both local and non.

This was our third and longest stay in Cortona. Although we rented a car and drove about 800 kilometers to other cities and towns, we also spent more time getting to know Cortona locals and meeting Cortona repeaters, some who have been returning for more than 20 years.

Our local friend Massimo asked why so many of us return annually, although he truly knows the answer. Cortona is the kind of town where people can feel at home and experience a sense of belonging. The town is big enough, yet not too big. Busy enough, yet not always crowded. Faces become familiar; smiles are abundant; and the welcome mat is warm and genuine.

When I reflected on all the friendships we made, I decided to create a group called “unexpected friendship organization” and ran the idea by some Italian friends. Hence, UFO, (pronounced oo fo). This post is dedicated to all its members because each of you made our trip extra special this year. Salute!

Jim Henson said, “There’s not a word yet for old friends who’ve just met.” I think he’s right. One just needs to look at the smiles to recognize who they are.

Till next we meet…arrivederci – and a heartfelt thanks for the wonderful memories!