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Zampognari…Italian Bagpipers!

23 Dec

Zampognari Keep Alive the Tradition of Festive Bagpipe Playing

Although we often associate bagpipers with the English and Scots, did you know that bagpipers are an important part of Christmastime tradition in Italy? Read on to discover the history.

Article reprinted from Italy Magazine, Barry Lillie | Monday, December 23, 2013 – 10:00

No Italian Christmas would be complete without the sound of bagpipes. Everywhere from the piazzas of Rome to remote hillside villages, the Zampognari (pipers) continue the tradition of festive bagpipe playing that dates back to ancient Roman times.

Traditionally, the pipers were shepherds who, in a bid to earn an extra income, would travel down from their mountain homes at Christmas time to perform for the townsfolk in their markets squares. The regions where you’re most likely to see a piper are Abruzzo, Basilicata, Campania, Calabria, Molise, Puglia and Lazio.

The traditional dress of the piper is made of short breeches with criss-crossed leather leggings, sheepskin vests with a woollen cloak and peaked cap; there are regional changes such as velvet jackets or neckerchiefs, but the look of the piper remains mostly the same it has for centuries.

Legend tells us that of the shepherds who visited the Virgin Mary in Bethlehem, after gazing upon the baby Jesus, some took out their bagpipes and played. In keeping with the legend, the pipers will stop at public Nativity scenes for a few minutes of quiet contemplation.

Historically, the piper is accompanied by a shawm, a medieval woodwind instrument; however, today’s pipers are usually accompanied by an oboe player. They play traditional music, with a popular song being the Christmas hymn, Tu scendi dalle stelle (You come down from the stars), written by Saint Alphonsus Maria de ‘ Liguori, the bishop of Sant’Agata de’ Goti.

Watch the zampognari play “Tu scendi dalle stelle”:

http://youtu.be/RCEyN1pCm3E

Makes me wonder if my paternal grandfather’s ancestors played the bagpipes as Alex’s family was from Abruzzo. Perhaps someday I’ll find a photo.

Ciao,

Judy

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Learning Italian

28 Oct

A few years ago, knowing that my dream of traveling to Italy annually was about to begin, I began a two-year search for Italian classes. I wasn’t looking for academic credits, or a class filled with grade conscious students; rather, I wanted to join a group of like-minded adults who yearned to improve their knowledge of everything Italian –  the language, food, culture, holidays, nuances, etc. This also meant I needed to find a native Italian teacher, not someone who merely majored in the subject.

Map of the languages and dialects spoken in It...

Map of the languages and dialects spoken in Italy.

Luckily, my search finally led me to a class offered by Casa Italia in Chicago, casaitaliachicago.net.  I must admit, when I first learned of my instructor’s Greek last name, I was a bit disappointed and puzzled, until I learned it was her married name.

Simply put, Giovanna’s classes provide me with more than I had hoped for. Each session is interactive, dynamic, challenging, and filled with great camaraderie. The students, who are now all friends, share similar interests as many have Italian ancestry and connections.  Of most importance, however, is Giovanna’s desire to have us learn and understand what she teaches, not just memorize what is in the textbook.

Italian language

Italian language

My goal in studying Italian was to reach a point where I no longer felt like a tourist in Italy. And while my learning will be a lifelong pursuit, I’m now comfortable conversing with locals who speak no English at all – a great tribute to Giovanna!

I encourage anyone who has an interest in international travel to study a foreign language. The beauty of the Italian language, however, is that it does not always require the spoken word to be understood. So if learning a language is not your thing, or you find it frustrating, the Italians provide another, more simple option for communicating – namely gesturing.

Thanks to the NY Times, here is a fun and easy way to learn some Italian. Click on the link below, hover over each, and practice at your own pace!

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http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2013/07/01/world/europe/A-Short-Lexicon-of-Italian-Gestures.html?smid=fb-share&_r=1&

Ciao,

Judy

 

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Through His Words: Reflections From and About My Grandfather

2 Oct

I am about to begin an incredible adventure with my paternal grandfather. We will venture to Europe, via ship, and spend a month together touring Italy. During our stay, we will visit his birthplace, Pietrabbondante, a town he left with his parents when he was four years old to emigrate to the United States.

In the year 1895 on the 9th day of January, Mr. Ruggiero di Salvo, Mayor and official of the Bureau of Vital Statistics for the city of Pietrabbondante, received information that at the hour of 4:00 A.M. on the 7th day of Jan. 1895, was born in Pietrabbondante a male child to whom the name of Allesandro was given, son of Vincenzo Iacapraro and Maria Emerenziana Vitullo.

Meet Alexander V. Capraro, my grandfather.  An old, warn picture perhaps but a very handsome man indeed. We think this may have been his wedding day.

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Now you may be wondering….born in 1895? 118 years old and taking me on a month-long trip? Exactly.

Although the Internet didn’t exist, and my grandfather only lived to the young age of 61, he was a blogger. Oh, they didn’t call it that at the time, but like so many others, he wrote about his experiences in the nearly lost art of letter writing.   Fortunately, the letters were kept and are now in my possession. Thanks, Aunt Marion!

My grandfather was small in stature but large in accomplishment. He was the first Italian-American architect licensed in the state of Illinois and fortunately, a few of his buildings still stand for us to admire. Unfortunately for his grandchildren, however, he died before we really had a chance to know him. But now I plan to change that as I read through and relive his journey to his homeland in 1938. It was his only visit to Italy, and since my grandmother didn’t want to leave their three children, he wrote her daily. Over the next year, I will include parts of his story in my blog. Next summer, Len and I will visit his hometown and perhaps even find the home where he lived.

I am so excited to begin this journey and to share my experiences along the way. My love and connection to Italy continue to grow as I research the past and partake of the present. And while studying history is one thing, studying my paternal ancestors’ history through my Grandfather’s words is clearly another.

Over the next year, Through His Words: Reflections From and About My Grandfather will unfold as I read his letters, follow his footsteps, and get to know better the man I called Grandpa so many years ago.

Ciao,

Judy

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Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, Cortona

20 Sep

Since it’s Friday, I was thinking about where I’d like to have dinner tonight. A simple choice would be Ristorante IL CACCIATORE, except for the fact that it is in Cortona and we are in Chicago. Oh, well, I can still think about what we might order after receiving a warm welcome from Alessandro, owner and always visible greeter.

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The entrance to the two-story restaurant is on Via Roma, and you can choose indoor or limited outdoor seating. According to its website, “It was the first restaurant opened in the medieval town of Cortona, around 1904.” The word cacciatore means “hunter” in Italian, and the restaurant serves typical Tuscan dishes and “specialities including grilled meat chianina, ribollita and pici with meat sauce,” a local pasta favorite.

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There’s an ample selection of wines to choose from, and the house wine is fine as well.

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The food is very good, and the atmosphere and staff are always warm and inviting.

Whether we stop in for pizza and a tomato salad

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Tonight, perhaps we’d start with an antipasto of cheeses and freshly sliced meats…

IMG_0001or order pici with speck and tomatoes.

IMG_0637After, we’d choose sliced steak with rosemary

IMG_0004or delicious roasted chicken, (my favorite!)

IMG_0002some hot off-the-grill veggies

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And to top off a most satisfying dinner, why not a little tiramisu? (It’s so much better in Italy!)

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All in a night’s work, but then someone gets to do it. Just wish it could be us tonight!

Whether it’s just the two of us, or we are part of a large group, Ristorante IL CACCIATORE is one of our favorite go-to restaurants in Cortona.

Ciao,

Judy

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Il Pozzo

14 Sep

One of the things that makes Cortona unusual is the amount of art one can see in this lovely town. Two incredible museums, as well as many churches, are home to magnificent art and/or artifacts. Surely these are not to be missed.

But once you fall in love with the town, how can you take a piece of it home? That’s easy. Visit Il Pozzo.

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Il Pozzo, meaning the well, is located just off the busy Via Nazionale. It doesn’t take long to get caught up in the music and art that fill the senses before even entering the gallery.

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And while wonderful art treasures await, so does an unexpected architectural journey.

Meet Ivan, proprietor with his wife Loriana. Ivan is as happy to show you around the building and share its history as he is finding the right treasure for you to take home. He also speaks English quite well!

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Paraphrasing and borrowing from their website description,

The voices of the busy Via Nazionale seem centuries of history away…

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Visitors can contemplate the medieval ambiance uncovered two levels below the modern-day street, tastefully returned to the light with its ancient aspect and functionality.

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One should not miss the unique well “ad ampolla” from which the Gallery “Il Pozzo” takes its name and in which there are traces of the ancient knowledge and architectural skill of the Etruscans ancestors’ civilization.

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Here, nothing is left to happenstance and every wall, every nook and every shelf becomes a frame for an interesting detail, underlining the value of the artistic and artisan objects displayed.

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The attention and interest of the visitor is fed with the variety of the paintings, photographs, prints, books, engravings, ceramics,

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and artisan crafts such as leather-covered books, hand crafted papers, jewels and objects in glass

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IMG_0056which are an integral part of the history and customs of Tuscany.

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The Gallery “Il Pozzo” can be summed up as an encounter between Cortona and the visitor.

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That said, it seems to correspond to the high level of historic and artistic tradition of the homeland of Signorelli, of Pietro Berrettini and of Gino Severini.

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Everything here seems to court the taste and artistic sensibilities of the refined tourist of the new century.

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This past summer, we found an original watercolor that seemed to have our name on it. Wonderful art has that quality – it somehow speaks to its eventual owner.  Lucky for us, we brought some of ancient Cortona back to our home through this beautiful work by Allesandro Bulli.  Not a day goes by that we don’t enjoy looking at it and reliving a story.

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For us, this vividly captures many of our daily stops: morning cappuccino at a cafe, a local enoteca, the grocery store, a bit of the two main piazzas, a restaurant overlooking the historic center, etc.

Whether you are just browsing or looking for something special to purchase, there is never any pressure at Il Pozzo. If you do find something for yourself or for a gift, Ivan will carefully and beautifully prepare it for its journey home.

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And, of course, prepare you an espresso while you wait!

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So be sure to put Il Pozzo on your list of places to visit in Cortona, and tell Ivan and Loriana that Judy sent you. Your visit will be fun and fabulous, and give you the opportunity to take a little piece of Cortona home with you too. We’re so happy we did!

Ciao,

Judy

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15,000+ Views!

31 Aug

I am delighted to report that this week, Blogginginitaly.com surpassed 15,000 views! Pretty amazing, especially as it began as a fun way for me to share our travels with family members and a few friends.

IMG_1809Over the last two years, my blog has been my journal, giving me a place to record my thoughts, experiences and pictures as we travel around Italy.

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To my surprise and delight, its reach has broadened and now includes viewers from over 80 countries.

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Many thanks for all your thoughtful comments and encouragement. Writing my blog is an endless learning curriculum for me – one that is filled with never-ending yet truly satisfying homework.

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It’s a joy to share my reflections about Italy with others who love it so, and a privilege to share it with those who can only dream of going.

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I can think of no better way to say thanks than by sharing some of my very favorite views.

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And of course, let’s not forget the food!

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Finally, to Len, with whom I have seen all of these views,

a little something we saw on a hillside…

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Ciao, Judy

Judy in window

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Sagra della Bistecca

18 Aug

Each year, same time, same place, Cortona offers up the same wonderful steak-lover’s paradise. Cortona’s Ferragosto is an Italian chiana beef steak fest filled with celebration, amazing aromas, seasoned chefs and smiles galore.

As reported  in a similar blog one year ago, the Latin “Feriae Augusti” denoted the “August Rest” which was a month-long holiday period proclaimed in the 18th century by Emperor Augustus. It was a time when people could relax after all the hard work associated with the harvest and the end of the year’s main agricultural work. It was also a time when nobility mixed with the workers.

Over time, the festival shortened to a few weeks and eventually became a one-day event, celebrated on August 15 each year. For Italians, this bank holiday combines elements of both ancient and Christian worlds, as August 15 also commemorates the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

Cities throughout Italy celebrate this day with great festivals. If you happened to be in Cortona, you no doubt enjoyed the annual Sagra della Bistecca, or beef steak festival, held in the normally quiet parterre, or public garden pictured here. A beautiful and moving war memorial graces the park’s entrance.

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Beyond the statue lies this fountain,  providing a quiet place to reflect or toss a penny.

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And beyond the fountain is the expansive parterre, often silent beyond belief.

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Of course, you might encounter the occasional dog walker.

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Or the many cats who call the parterre home. But generally, count on a peaceful and mostly tourist free passeggiata, or Italian stroll.

For the festival, however, the quiet setting is completely transformed. An enormous grill, some 14-meters long, is erected. Locals don chef’s aprons, and with extra long forks, lovingly go about the work of grilling mouth-watering T-bone steaks, Italian sausages, and spareribs for the locals who have crowded the park to enjoy the celebration with family and friends.

Local wines and cheeses compliment the grilled meats and make for a perfect feast and day of relaxation.  If interested, I’ve included a wonderful 2011 time lapsed You Tube clip of the Cortona event: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anpiFhse558

Hmmm… grilled steaks for dinner tonight? Definitely worth the calories.

Ciao,

Judy

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Pitigliano

29 Jul

Often the word “marvel” is used to describe huge skyscrapers…modern marvels built with the latest in technological advancements, built to withstand nature’s strongest elements and built to stand the test of time. This being the case, then what word aptly describes the truest technological marvels that have more than survived nature’s strongest elements and survived for centuries? What word can we possibly use to describe places like Pitigliano, a stunning medieval town dramatically perched atop a tufa ridge?

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While Len and I love traveling by train and bus in Italy, one of the benefits of occasionally renting a car is the opportunity to explore the more remote areas. Situated between Roma and Firenze, and east of Grosseto, the Hills of Maremma in Tuscany is one of those areas. The Hills are filled with non-traditional Tuscan landscapes and amazing surprises around each bend.

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There are several towns in the area, but the most stunning to me is Pitigliano, a medieval town built on tufa or volcanic rock. When you hear medieval, think 500-1500 time frame. Houses and buildings in town are built on sheer cliffs that appear suspended over the valley, and sit above a network of caves and tunnels said to have been inhabited in prehistoric times. Fortunately, there are places to pull over as this is a photo-op must.

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In the 16th century, Pitigliano became a haven for Jews escaping enclosed ghettos in neighboring cities. Today, visitors can still see parts of the ancient Jewish Quarter; a 16th century aqueduct; a few beautiful churches; a 14th century fortress which houses a museum and medieval torture chamber; and sometimes even tour the underground tunnels and caves.

Pitigliano, Italy, at night

Pitigliano, Italy, at night (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

While only about 300 people still live in Pitigliano in southeastern Tuscany,

English: The Municipality of Pitigliano within...

The Municipality of Pitigliano within the Province of Grosseto, Tuscany, Italy (Wikipedia)

this ancient structure still stands and functions – deeming it not just a marvel, but truly marvelous!

MARVELOUS…A word befitting!

Ciao,

Judy

 

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BBQ – Italian Style

20 Jul

In the States, the word BBQ often conjures up hamburgers, hot dogs, chicken and ribs. Not so in Italy, however, where a BBQ is a multi course, typical Italian dinner, but all cooked on the grill. Lucky for us, Ivan and Loriana invited us to experience a backyard BBQ at their home.

To begin…pop the Prosecco!

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Next, understand a bit about traditional Italian families. Three generations live in this house, which was built by Loriana’s parents Nello and Rina some 40 years ago. Not just a house, mind you, but also pristine fruit, vegetable and herb gardens, grapes, olive trees, a truffle-finding dog, rabbits, and just about anything needed to be self-sufficient.

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To this day, every inch of the garden is planted and lovingly cared for by grandfather Nello.IMG_0014

After the garden tour, and some toasts all around, time to light the grill…

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In Italy, “carbon” is used and burns more quickly than charcoal so it needs to be replenished several times.

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First on the menu: antipasti – grill the Italian bread…

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lightly rub with fresh garlic…

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top with fresh tomatoes and basil from the garden…

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add a slice of cheese, and serve. So simple, so fresh, so perfect!

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Next, sauté porcini mushrooms, add some parmesan, and serve bubbling hot… Delicious!

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As the plates were being cleared, the primo, or first course was being prepared.

Start with fresh Italian sausage…

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Separate and butterfly, (of course!), then grill…ahhh, the aroma….

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Next grill the ribs, no BBQ sauce required!

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Serve with sautéed onions and peppers…my kind of BBQ!

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We ate, drank, talked, laughed and toasted some more, and thought we were done until the hosts began to prep for the secondo, or main course of the evening.

Grill the zucchini…

IMG_0008Toss with olive oil…

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Cut some fresh prosciutto while waiting…

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Grill the steak…sprinkle with fresh rosemary…

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Add some final touches and serve…
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And turn this…

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Into this…Incredible!

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Throughout the evening, new acquaintances became friends as conversations flowed easily in Italian and English. For dessert, a variety of homemade liquors were spread across the table and accompanied by a choice of gelato. Smiles were abundant and the meal was incredible. But even more special for Len and me was the opportunity once again to experience local culture and norms, and to be included in the warmth and traditions of a local Italian family. Being at a dinner like this, it is easy for me to recognize and appreciate the roots of many of my own family traditions, often centered around sharing a meal with multiple generations of extended family members. A toast to traditions – may each generation keep them strong!

Our heartfelt thanks to Nello, Rina, Ivan and Loriana for sharing your home, your food, your talents and your friendship with us. It was a night we will always remember. Salute!

Ciao,

Judy

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Cortona: Then and Now

3 Jul

Cortona – 3 July 1944,  liberation.

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Then (photo by G. Lamentini)IMG_0003

Now. (Photo by yours truly.) Same place, same day, 69 years later.

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Lest we forget. Cortona war memorial.

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Peace.

Ciao,

Judy

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