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Summer at the Seaside

25 Jul

July is the month many Italians go to the sea. This summer, we were invited to share in the experience with Anna and John, friends from Texas, at the summer home of Anna’s parents, Giovanna and Franco.

We headed to the Livorno area, the west coast of Tuscany situated on the Terranean Sea, for a few days of quiet relaxation, great conversation, delicious food, Italian hospitality, and incredible views.

The drive from Cortona took about an hour longer than expected due to some heavy downpours and overturned vehicles blocking exit ramps, but all that was quickly forgotten when we arrived and were met by our gracious hosts and a delicious homemade lunch.

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Then time for a passagiata, or walk, and a chance to take in the views of the sea, which was a bit rough for swimming but great for photos.

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After walking, hours of conversation, and brief naps, it was time for appertivo. John did the honors.

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The cheeses were delicious, including this one with whiskey,

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and this one with grappa.

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The gardener just happened to stop by with some porcini mushrooms. (Giovanna showing them to John.)

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Giovanna turned them into several dishes including this appetizer with shaved parmigiano and olive oil.

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Time for dinner.

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And finally, dessert. Giovanna actually made this for us for breakfast but I ate it all the time!

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The next morning, I learned that an “Italian lover” lived under our same roof but was not performing well. Anna and her mother believe that every woman deserves a lover, and one that meets expectations. This lover is named Giacomo.

It turns out, the lover of whom they speak is a robotic vacuum cleaner. Theirs was about 5 years old and had run out of steam, so to speak. So, off we ladies went to Euronics to purchase Giacomo Due (2).

With Giacomo Due safely in the trunk, I was treated to a tour of Livorno, a lovely port city, by the ever knowledgeable Giovanna.

Not sure the men missed us at all, but we were anxious to see how well the slimmer, sleeker Giacomo would perform. After reading the users’ manual online, Anna shares her findings with her mother.

Anna read the

Anna read the

After a three-hour charge, Giacomo is ready! Will he fit under the couch? The ladies are intrigued but not so Anna’s father, who is busy with world economics.

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The verdict is in, Giacomo Due stays! Time for lunch and wine tasting on the veranda as the winds have quieted.

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For dessert, peaches in white wine.

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Another walk along the sea wall…

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And, as Italians are prone to do, disregard the warning of falling rocks.

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The last night, we had a lovely dinner in the small town, giving Giovanna a rest from cooking.

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Many thanks to Giovanna and Franco for sharing your home and hospitality with us. We loved experiencing the Italian summer at sea. And to Anna and John, thanks for your friendship. We finally turned our goal of being in Italia together into a reality. Bravissimo!

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Ciao,

Judy

Ham and Cheese, Please

22 Jul

Looking for an afternoon snack?

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and a few added reds?

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Throw in a little romance…

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And something to toast with…

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Salute!

Ciao,

Judy

Ristorante AD Braceria

20 Jul

There is a wonderful new restaurant in Cortona called Ristorante AD Braceria. The ancient setting was rebuilt several times over many years from four small homes with a street down the middle and the building is still owned by the original family. What was the old street now runs through the center of the restaurant.

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Today, there are many intimate settings for dining…(if only these walls could talk!)

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Business partners Anna and Tito opened this wonderful restaurant which specializes in meat and fish, the latter being a great addition to Cortona, more known for Chianina beef. I felt an instant connection with Anna, as she is from Naples and her husband Marco is from Nola, southern towns where my maternal grandparents were born.

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Braceria can be translated as a carvery, or a place where they slice the meet to order, whether it is prosciutto, veal, or a chianina beef steak.

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At AD, the fish is always fresh.

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We have dined here many times with local and visiting friends and have enjoyed a variety of dishes each time.

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Our meals have been delicious and beautifully presented, and we often let Anna decide our menu. Here’s a sampling:

Shrimp carpaccio with burrata:

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Breaded Clams:

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Seafood salad with five grains:

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Salmon marinated with citrus fruits:

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Octopus salad with mashed potatoes:

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Mixed grilled seafood:

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Len having fun:

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Handmade fresh pasta stuffed with sea bass, shrimp and tomatoes:

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Rigatoni with artichokes, bacon and pecorino:

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Grilled chicken (wait time 35 minutes and well worth the wait!)

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Grilled fillet with rosemary:

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Handcut veal with rosemary:

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Fresh green beans with balsamic:

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And my very favorite –

Paccheri with braceria ragu (veal and pork):

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This pasta is a traditional peasant dish from Naples, made from the various cuts of meat, and simmered for 12 hours with tomatoes and wine. Note: THIS IS THE BEST PASTA I HAVE EVER EATEN!

As one might expect, the desserts are incredible.

Hot and dark chocolate cake with gelato:

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Daily fresh fruit sorbet, (on left) …Typical dessert from Napoli on right:

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We are delighted with the addition of this restaurant in Cortona. Incredible food in an incredible setting – Perfetto!

Ciao,

Judy

 

I Hope We Dance

18 Jul

Lee Ann Womack’s signature song, written by Tia Sillers and Mark Sanders, is called “I Hope You Dance”. It won the Grammy Award for Best Country Song and also the Country Music Award for Song Of The Year in 2001, and for good reason – it has such a great “hook” line:

And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance.
I hope you dance….I hope you dance.

Last night, at about 11:30 PM, the lyrics of the song came to me as we joined others in Piazza Republicca after dinner. A band was playing, people were gathering, and a few of us started dancing with the lead singer.  Surrounded by ancient buildings, the words seem to fit perfectly for old and young alike…

I hope you never lose your sense of wonder, (Go Len!)

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I hope you still feel small when you stand beside the ocean, (or amazing antiquities!)

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(or comfortable dancing with the lead singer!)

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May you never take one single breath for granted,
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Give the heavens above more than just a passing glance,
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And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance,
I hope you dance….I hope you dance.
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According to Sillers, this song is about taking chances and not being afraid to try something new. In our travels, and in life in general, may we always choose to dance!
Ciao,
Judy
For more of Lee Ann Womack’s signature song, click below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seeing the Blues

16 Jul

in Montepulciano,

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And sipping the Reds!

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All in a good day’s work.

Ciao,

Judy

Bagnoli dei Trigno

8 Jul

Last winter, when I started making plans to visit Pietrabbondante, I noted that the town did not have any hotels, but listed some nearby. I booked the closest one, as it had a few good online reviews, and never really thought about it again.

After our wonderful visit to Pietrabbondante, we headed to Bagnoli dei Trigno where the hotel was located, a town close as the crow flies, but about 30 minutes by car as we had to head down one “hill” and up another. Len said it was the curviest road he had ever been on, one switchback after another.

Finally we came to an intersection: Bagnoli dei Trigno was one direction, and the Domus Hotel another. Since this was our hotel, we headed left, followed the road around a large curve looking for a tiny hotel, and came upon this…

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and even better, this incredible view!

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It turns out our hotel is a medical/sports/health spa, large, lovely, very clean and only three years old. Interestingly, there was only one other hotel guest that night, but it was a Monday.

We were hungry after a long morning in Pietrabbondante and they were more than happy to prepare lunch for us. This is a vegetable flan on one side and suckling pig on the other…I forgot to take a photo before Len and I split it, but you get the idea…fresh and delicious, and prepared only when ordered.

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After lunch, we strolled around the property, sat in the sun, and marveled at the view.

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I also had a massage, and why not since this was a health spa. For dinner, we enjoyed their homemade pasta with local tomatoes and fresh mozzarella from the region.

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I don’t really know much about the town of Bagnoli dei Trigno except that as of the end of 2004, it had a population of about 850 living in fourteen square miles. What I do know is that from the hotel, it is a sight to behold, especially from our vantage point at sunset.

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The next day, we visited the town of Bagnoli. The few people we spoke to were very friendly and a nice man even opened his market/bar/cafe to make us fresh paninis. The newer part of the city is at the base, with the ancient part still somewhat inhabited. We were told that the Lombards built the castle at the top, although it was closed for reconstruction so we weren’t able to get near. What we did find was a very quiet ancient city, actually much lovelier from a distance.

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This is a view looking at our hotel (center) from the top of the ancient town.

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At night, our hotel put on its own light show.

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Per their brochure, Domus offers dancing under the stars as well as concerts on weekends. A perfect setting for sure! They even have a wood burning pizza oven which is large enough for seven pizzas at once.

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Such a pleasant surprise and an incredibly relaxing stay in a tiny hill top town. As we left Bagnoli, we couldn’t help but look once more at the vista we will long remember.

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Ciao,

Judy

 

 

Cortona Liberazione

6 Jul

Today in Cortona, the locals celebrated 70 years since the liberation of their city in 1944.

With proud veterans

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and original military vehicles and equipment,

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Italians and members of the Great Generation Airborne Group (dressed as British and American soldiers), stood at attention

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as a wreath was laid.

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Songs were sung and people joined in the parade

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vowing never to forget those who served and liberated their ancient and lovely town.

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Ciao,

Judy

Through His Words and Now Mine: Pietrabbondante!

3 Jul

Reflections From and About My Grandfather
Alexander Capraro, Architect

At long last, our journey is realized – we find Pietrabbondante.

76 years, 10 months and 10 days after Alex returned to his birthplace, so too did Len and I, being the first and only ancestors after Alex, we think, to step foot in this town of his birth.

The town’s name comes from pietra, meaning stone, and abbondante, meaning abundance, hence Pietrabbondante. And there certainly is an abundance of stone in the area.

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Pietrabbondante – blogginginitaly.com

When Alex was born, Pietrabbondante was in Abruzzo, but with redistricting (a la US politics), it is now part of Molise. On the map below, Pietra is between Agnone and Isernia, in the Apennine Mountain range.

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In 1895, when Alex was born, there were about 4000 residents in Pietrabbondante. Today, there are less than 800.

As soon as we arrived in the main square, the few people around greeted us kindly, but knew instantly we were visitors. This definitely isn’t a town with a tourist issue. The main square has a beautiful war memorial like so many we see throughout Italy, dedicated to the soldiers who died defending their country and towns.

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We made our way to the church my grandfather described in his last letter and easily found it at the end of the main street.

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This is where my great-grandparents, Emerenziana Vitullo and Vincenzo Iacapraro were married and where their first-born son Alex was baptized.

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Next stop was the Municipal building. Armed with Alex’s parents’ birth records, we were eventually united with the vice mayor (vice sindaco), Michele Zullo. When I told him I was hoping to find Alex’s parents’ house, he shook his head saying that without an address, it would be difficult to find. The mayor did not know any Iacapraros, but said there were many Vitullos still in town, so we decided to search for those records.

Forget computers – this is an efficient manual process. We experienced this once before, years ago, when we went to Calabria to find Len’s ancestors.

First, find the book with the right year span. Check.

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Next, cut the twine as the book hasn’t been opened in years! Check.

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Then, search for the date of birth in 1873. Check.

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And just like that – Alex’s mother’s name and records.

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Emerenziana Vitullo – blogginginitaly.com

The mayor patiently reads the page and suddenly says he knows the house. He tries to explain where it is, but then decides to walk us there himself. I can hardly believe this is about to happen!

We walk for about five minutes, when he stops abruptly… “Guarda, questa è la vostra casa!” (Look, this is your house!) he proudly proclaims in Italian.

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And there it is – right on the main street, 83 Corso Sannitico.

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Time for photos.

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Vice Sindaco Michele Zullo and Judy – blogginginitaly.com

Michele explains that there had been a little shop or bar on the fist floor, hence the door on the left with curtains.

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Amazing! Mission accomplished.

We talked, hugged and kissed arrivederci, then thanked Michele for his genuine hospitality.

Then Len and I stopped to imagine Alex running up and down this lovely street until age four…

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and couldn’t help but wonder why his parents decided to leave Pietrabbondante and their ties behind. What caused them to seek a new life in America, so very different and so very far away?

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How did this young family manage, in 1899, to get from this town, high in the mountains, to the harbors in Napoli, where they would have boarded a ship destined to a land unknown?

Talk about courage. Whatever they envisioned, never could they have imagined that one day, their four-year old Alex would become the first licensed Italian American architect in the state of Illinois.

There is much more to Alex’s story, but for the next month or so, I will relish in this encounter with my ancestral origins and just smile.

To Alex, my grandfather, thank you for your incredible letters and for the history and insights that led us to your roots, as well as ours. And to Aunt Marion, and all of Alex’s descendants, a bit of history we can now cherish forever, and as Alex did so well, continue to pass on for generations to come.

Salute!

Ciao,

Judy

Making Pasta with Paola

27 Jun

Last night, we were at Casale della Torre again for dinner with our friends Larry and Carrol. As usual, it was such a treat and always a learning experience with Lapo and Paola in the kitchen.

We arrived to find Paola making fresh pasta.

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Naturally, I had to try this myself.

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After a few tips, they said I passed. It was just to get me out of their way, I think.

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Next up, Paola’s fried veggies including zucchini flowers, zucchini, and onions, freshly picked from their garden.

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The men moved outside to enjoy the view and the Prosecco, and wait patiently for the appetizers to arrive. They were also in charge of grilling the sausage.

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Meanwhile, Paola opened the treasure chest from the freezer…porcini mushrooms Lapo had found last fall, and had saved for Carrol and Larry’s arrival dinner. Such a treat for all of us.

Lapo's Porcini Find! - blogginginitaly.com

Lapo’s Porcini Find!

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Frozen porcini sections – blogginginitaly.com

After appertivo on the veranda, we moved inside for dinner. Gustavo, a guest of Larry and Carrol’s, and the evening’s assistant chef, had requested Tripe. Yikes! But the men were all happy and said it was delicious. The ladies just looked on with eyebrows raised as the men enjoyed several servings.

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Gustavo was very grateful!

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Next was two kinds of pasta – one with ragu of chianna beef, a Tuscan speciality, and the second with mushrooms. These were followed by a salad from the garden and the grilled sausage. Delicious.

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Finally, dessert – peaches marinated in Lapo’s red vino, vanilla gelato with mint sprig, and my hostess gift apple torta.

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We quickly learned no evening is complete without a taste of Lapo’s homemade liquors.

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At the end of a very relaxing and fun evening, Lapo decided that Gustavo reminded him of Popeye. And why not – here is a man who, along with his brother, rode his bike from Mexico City to Toronto back in the 50s! Lacking a pipe, Lapo gave Gustavo a wooden spoon and actually lit it.

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Before we left, Paola and Lapo invited us to make cheese with them the next day. Fresh pasta Thursday, cheese on Friday. My cup runneth over!

Ciao,

Judy

A Typical Thursday – Camucia Market and Tuscher Caffe

26 Jun

If it’s Thursday in Cortona, it’s market day in Camucia, the town at the bottom of the hill. As usual, we strolled for hours amongst the clothing, housewares, shoes, jewelry and food stalls.

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Camucia Market – blogginginitaly.com

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Camucia Market  – blogginginitaly.com

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Camucia Market – blogginginitaly.com

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Camucia Market – blogginginitaly.com

Camucia Market - blogginginitaly.com

Camucia Market – blogginginitaly.com

Camucia Market -  blogginginitaly.com

Camucia Market – blogginginitaly.com

Len and I returned to Cortona about 2 PM and had lunch at our very favorite Tuscher Caffe on Via Nazionale. We eat here almost everyday, and usually try to be a little heathy, but today we really splurged. We shared the special, a pasta prepared with light cream sauce of prosciutto, onions, and melon, (yes thinly sliced melon! as only the Italians know how), and it was not only beautiful but incredibly delicious.

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Tuscher Caffe – blogginginitaly.com

We also shared our daily tomato salad – very healthy!

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Tuscher Caffe –
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Then for dessert, which we usually never have at lunch, Edoardo, the chef and our friend, convinced us to try his special tiramisu with fresh cherries. Well, it ranks among the best desserts I have ever had. No drenched cookies with liquor here. Instead, a light, smooth, lovely dessert with the fresh cherries – simply amazing.

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Edoardo’s Tiramisu
Tuscher Caffe
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Edoardo, Chef at Tuscher Cafe blogginginitaly.com

Edoardo, Chef at Tuscher Caffe
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Tonight we have been invited to a friend’s home, so Edoardo is making me his delicious apple torta to take to my hosts.

Edoardo's Mela (Apple) Torta -  blogginginitaly.com

Edoardo’s Mela (Apple) Torta –
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As for tomorrow’s agenda? Extended hiking, then more eating, of course.

I know, it’s a tough life. So glad it’s us that “has” to do it!

Ciao,

Judy