Archive | October, 2015

Cortona Afternoon Skies

29 Oct

Nature’s Paintbrush

From rain

Rain

to watercolored rainbow

Rainbow

All in a day’s work.

Ciao,

Judy

Autumn in Cortona – Autunno a Cortona

27 Oct

Quiet Walks –  Tranquille Passeggiate 

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Long Shadows – Ombre Lunghe 

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Sun Painted Piazzas – Piazze Dipinte dal Sole

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Time for Appertivo – Il Momento dell’ Appertivo

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Ciao,

Judy

25 Oct

28 wonderful years ago today…

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and the adventure continues!

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Ti amo, Leonardo!

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Ciao,
Judy

 

From Olives to Oil: the Frantoio

21 Oct

When I left off last, things looked like this.

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Olive picking was complete and it was time to take the olives to the frantoio, or oil mill.

Niccolo and Edoardo loaded their family’s olives into their car and we drove a short distance to the beautiful Frantoio Landi,

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a frantoio that has been in the family for years.

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Here we were met by Massimo, the owner, who helped “pour” the olives into one of the mill’s standard sized containers.

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Next, the olives were moved to a large scale to be weighed.

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Grand total we picked: 148.5 kg.

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The minimum weight needed to process is 300 kg, so the Olivieri olives would be combined with those of two friends. In the meantime, Lorenzo, one of the sons, patiently gave us a tour and explanation of the harvesting process before it would begin the next day.

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Years ago, horses or oxen were used to turn the grinding wheels.

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The old grinding wheels are still available at the frantoio and are sometimes used based on demand. Olives in Tuscany are usually harvested during October and November, depending on weather, so there can be a huge demand during a very short period of the year.

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Time to begin the process. The olives we picked are combined with two others to achieve the minimum weight. When you look at the faces of the growers, you can see the pride they have in their olives and sense their anticipation.

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The combined olives are dropped into a large hopper

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where the olives are carried on a ladder conveyor to the washer.

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During the washing process, leaves and stems are removed, and are sent via a pipe to an outside holding  container. Nothing goes to waste in the process.

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The washed olives are moved to another hopper

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and then into a grinding/crushing machine, or martellatura.

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Here the olives and pits are crushed into an olive paste, which is pumped into a mixing machine.

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The olive paste is mixed slowly for 45 minutes. This is the first instance we could smell the wonderful olive oil fragrance.

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The next step is the pressing, where a centrifuge spins the mixture at high speeds and separates the mixture into three parts: oil, water and pomace and the pomace is removed.

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The heavier water is then removed in a second centrifuge. And then, the unfiltered extra-virgin olive oil moves through a tube and suddenly begins to pour out into a stainless steel container.

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It is quite an amazing sight!

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When the oil has stopped flowing, it is carefully measured and divided into containers for the growers.

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Smiles abound and all are eager to sample the results.

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Being in Italy in the fall has given us some incredible new experiences, and participating in an olive harvest has been one of our very best. Hopefully my description of the process, with a great deal of help from Len, is pretty accurate. What we know for certain is that picking the olives was wonderful, and being able to watch them move through the process to the final product was sensational.  And of course, as you might guess, there is nothing quite like the taste and flavor of olio nuovo – the new oil. From olives to oil – nature at its very best.

Ciao,

Judy

 

 

Olive Harvest in Cortona

14 Oct

Olive harvesting for many in Italy is a family affair. Italian families love their gardens and harvest their olives, like their fruits and vegetables, for their own consumption. Their olives are usually harvested by hand, producing a better quality oil.

Ancient olive trees are among the heartiest of trees – they grow well in most soils and some have born fruit for centuries. The trees even retain their green leaves year round.

Although I have walked by them for years, yesterday I finally came face to face with the first trees I would pick.

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Our friends Massimo and Daniela, and their sons Niccolo and Edoardo, have about 14 trees that were ready for harvesting. With only a handful of pickers, this was a two-day project. Len picked both days,

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As did new friends Sandy and Rudy.

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Picking olives is not difficult but it is time-consuming and at times back aching. Sometimes pickers are on ladders or up in the trees, carefully stripping the olives from upper branches,

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while other times they stand below, working branches at arms reach.

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We placed long orange nets around each tree to collect the falling olives, being very careful not to step on them.

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Sometimes, it seemed as though it was raining olives. A long plastic rake, called a pettina or manina, is used to reach tall parts or dense areas in the center of the tree. The tools are used to gently rake the olives off each branch, and as they fall to the net below, there is the sensation of raining olives. Here Rudy is demonstrating the technique.

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A few olives have a less direct path and may tap you on the head or shoulder on their way down, or even land in your shirt or pocket. I found a few after we got home.

When a tree was empty, the olives would be gently rolled up in the net and then placed in a bin.

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And off we’d go, moving the nets to the next tree. Usually 2-3 would work a tree together.

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Weather is important because if it rains, the olives can rot before they are pressed. We were fortunate. Although the skies threatened, the rain held off and gave us the time we needed to finish picking.

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Although some leaves naturally fall with the olives, seasoned olive pickers can pick olives with fewer leaves. We were all pretty careful, and tried to clean as we went along. I’m told a few leaves are fine as they impart a good taste.

Although some leaves naturally fall with the olives, seasoned olive pickers can pick olives with fewer leaves. We were all pretty careful, and cleaned as we went along. I'm told a few leaves are fine as they impart a good taste. Here I am removing any stray leaves, and here is a penny tiny snail that was clinging to one of the leaves. Picked olives range in size and color; they can be green, purple, yellow or black, and they differ from tree to tree.

Picked olives range in size and color; they can be green, purple, yellow or black, and they differ from tree to tree.

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Naturally, no matter what they are doing, Italians always take time for pranzo, or lunch. I missed the incredible lunch served in the garden on Monday, but yesterday, Massimo served us a delicious lunch at Tuscher Caffe.

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And here are some of the workers enjoying lunch:

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After lunch, Len and I returned with Daniela and Nicco for what we thought was one small last tree. However, there was still work to be done, as all the olives needed to be ready the next morning to take to the frantoia for pressing.

Working in the garage, we sorted and sorted and filled four large containers.

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Until all the leaves were gone…

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So this is what I’ve learned:

Harvesting is more than picking olives. It is a gathering of family and friends, new and old, working together, surrounded by nature’s beauty. It is a time filled with friendship, smiles, stories, and the joy of being in touch with nature. It is a tradition, passed on from generations, and thriving for future ones. And lucky for me, unlike grapes, bees don’t hang out around olives.

During lunch, and after the day was done, looking around at our tired and achy group, I noticed one more thing – we shared the kind of glow that comes from pitching in together for a job well done.

Tomorrow we go to the frantoio to watch our picked and sorted olives become olive oil. And then we get to taste it. Stay tuned for Part 2!

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And many thanks to Daniela and Massimo for giving us this opportunity – such a great pleasure and learning experience. Count us in for next year!

Ciao,

Judy

 

Cantina de’ Corvi, Spoleto

9 Oct

During our visit to Spoleto, our hotel clerk recommended the Cantina de’ Corvi, a wonderful place to eat.

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We went for lunch and liked it so much, we returned for dinner. Can’t have too much of a good thing!

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Meet Ciro and Marianna – the owners of this new restaurant.

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Marianna is the chef, and quite a skilled one at that. Turns out they are from Naples, the native home of most of my ancestors. Marianna’s love of cooking recipes passed down from her grandmother, as well as Ciro’s appreciation of her home cooking, led them to open the restaurant in early 2015.

For lunch, we started with stuffed peppers and eggplant. Delicious.

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Then we each had pasta pomodoro. Why is it that fresh tomatoes at home never quite taste like these in Italy?

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We kidded a lot with Ciro, he asking us to correct his English and we asking the same of him of our Italian. Ciro, ricordi: “Is there something else you would like?”

Their menu boasts of food from the land and sea, so in addition to pasta, they have quite a selection of beef and seafood.

Our conversation turned to baccala, that awful looking salted fish I see at the market.

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I made a face and Len told Ciro that as kids, they would all feign illness when his grandmother announced baccala was for dinner.

Ciro said he had felt the same, and for years, his wife asked him to try her baccala. When he finally did, they put it on the menu. Ciro convinced Len to try it for dinner – no obligation if he didn’t like it. I was still skeptical.

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Well, as you might guess, it was delicious. Even I tasted it and agreed.

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My dinner was spaghetti con vongole, one of my favorite dishes in Italy.

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Both dishes, as is the case with great recipes from Napoli, include those incredible tomatoes.

For dessert, we shared a slice of ricotta and pear cake – light and not too sweet.

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We’ll definitely return to Spoleto, not only for its history and beauty, but also to spend more time with our new friends, Ciro and Marianna. If you go, please tell them Giuditta sent you. And by the way, I gave Don Matteo their card, so you might just bump into him as well!

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Ciao,

Judy

 

 

 

 

Spoleto and Don Matteo

7 Oct

On Tuesday, we headed to the walled medieval hill town of Spoleto in southern Umbria. We had decided to visit because of its ancient history and also because an Italian show we watch, Don Matteo, is being filmed there. The episodes, in Italian with English subtitles, help us learn Italian and are even more fun to watch when we are familiar with the shooting locations. The first eight seasons were shot in Gubbio, which we visited last year.

Spoleto’s first Roman settlements date to around 240 BC, and most of the historical sites are in the upper part of the town. Fortunately, the weather cooperated and we were able to walk miles through the town and enjoy some pretty spectacular views.

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The upper part of the town is called the Centro Storico, or Old Town. Here you find the Piazza del Duomo, a sprawling piazza at the base of a beautiful stairway.

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The original Duomo was built in the 12th century with a Romanesque facade, however, it was remodeled during the Renaissance and now has beautiful pink stone and colorful  mosaics.

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The inside is equally impressive.

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Sitting majestically above the town is the medieval Rocca Albornoziana fortress, built in the 14th century on the foundation of the Roman acropolis. Once a seat for local governors, in 1800 it was turned into a jail and used as such until the 20th century.  Today it houses a museum and also hosts summer performances.

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From this vantage point, there is an incredible view of the 750 foot Bridge of Towers, or Ponte delle Torri, a 13th century aqueduct that crosses a deep gorge,

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as well as this panoramic view of the valley below.

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There are elevators and escalators that reach the various levels of town. Although we enjoyed the walk up, we were also happy to have SIX long escalators return us to the lower part of town.

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Before dinner, we walked another area of the town and saw the ancient Teatro Romano.

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As we strolled, the setting sun was splashing the sky with its color palette.

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The scene so perfect, we felt as if we were on a movie set.

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It was definitely time for appertivo…

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with the most spectacular view…(photo is untouched)!

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Even the doves were happy.

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And now for our surprise encounter. I mentioned that Don Matteo is being filmed in Spoleto, and we found this billboard.

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While walking up the stairs to the Duomo, we both sighted a familiar person dressed in his usual black attire and baseball cap. It was, to our amazement,  Terrence Hill, or as we know him, Don Matteo. Really! A pretty incredible coincidence since he was one of the reasons we had come to Spoleto.

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Thanks, Don Matteo, for spending a few minutes with us and making our visit to Spoleto one we will always remember! Spoleto – a check off our bucket list with an unexpected and very happy memory!

Ciao,

Judy

 

La Compagnia Arcieri della Civetta

5 Oct

The Archidado Joust, which occurs the second Sunday of June in Cortona, traces its origins back to the Middle Ages. It was created in 1397 to celebrate the wedding the Lord of Cortona to a noble woman from Siena. For several weeks in June, town’s people are dressed in medieval style and banners are hung representing the various quarters of the town. Competition is fierce for the crossbow event.

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But how does one learn to use a crossbow? Like other sports, it requires years and years of practice and training, often passed down from parent to child. To assist in this learning, The Compagnia Arcieri della Civetta (Bowmen of Owl Association) was established in July 2010.

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Its purpose is “to practice and spread archery by using historical bows and learning everything about this discipline, from knowing different timbers, knowing how to use hand crafted bows made by skilled archers, how to make arrows, and how to shoot them both towards fixed or moving targets.”

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The Association participates in tournaments in many towns all over Italy, and for the second year, in Cortona.

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Although the weather didn’t participate, the costumed participants put on quite a show.

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The Bowmen move in assigned groups and have specific times to attempt each target. Creative and challenging objects are placed around the town, some with moving targets such as below. Here, a string is pulled and the large black disc swings as a pendulum.

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Others are stationary, but no less difficult, as in needing to shoot though two openings to hit the target from quite a distance away.

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Some targets are placed at the end of tiny viccoli or streets; here a father is shielding his young bowmen from the rain…

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as others cheered them on.

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Participants carefully checked their status and timing at each station.

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After shooting, bowmen would examine their results and retrieve their arrows.

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as some of the junior members just tried to stay dry and warm.

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Later in the afternoon, the participants gathered and the winners were announced. A new event in an ancient city, reminding us of medieval times gone by.

Ciao,

Judy

Sunflower: Girasole

1 Oct

Driving through Tuscany in the summer, a common site is a field of sunflowers. If I didn’t know better, I’d almost think they were shy, as it seems they are always facing away when I want to take a picture. An understanding of the name, however,  helps one understand – gira sole literally means turns toward the sun, and that is exactly what they do.

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But what happens to them in the fall? As you might imagine, they look quite different.

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Once they reach this state, sunflowers are cultivated for their edible seeds, which are an important source of oil for cooking. Timing is important as the seeds need to be harvested before they begin to dry and loosen, and before the squirrels and birds decide to do the harvesting for you.

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According to Fun Flower Facts, by Connor Lowry, here are some ways the sunflower can be used besides being a wonderful ornamental flower:

  1. As you know, sunflower seeds are edible. They can be eaten raw, cooked, roasted or dried. They are a popular, nutritious snack containing a good source of protein, vitamins A, B, and E, calcium, nitrogen and iron.
  2. Traditionally, North American Indians ground the seeds to make flour for cakes and breads.
  3. The petals are also edible; they can be cooked and eaten like artichokes.
  4. Humans aren’t the only ones that find sunflowers tasty. The seed heads are also a source of food for birds and animals. Sunflower seeds are a major ingredient in commercial birdseed.
  5. Sunflower leaves are used as feed for livestock.
  6. Sunflower oil is a popular vegetable oil known for its light colour, mild flavour, low levels of saturated fats and ability to withstand high cooking temperatures.
  7. The oil can also be added to soap, lubricants and candles.
  8. Sunflower oil can help relieve skin conditions, hemorrhoids and ulcers.
  9. Sunflower roots can remove radiation from soils and water. They were used to clean up the Chernobyl disaster.
  10. The root of the plant is also used in traditional herbal medicine to treat snake bites and spider bites. The leaves can be made into tea to relieve fevers, lung ailments and diarrhea.
  11. The flowers can be used to make an all natural dye.
  12. The stalks are used to make paper and clothes.

So, now you know what happens to those lovely flowers that always seem to make us smile.

Ciao,

Judy

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