Lecce, our last of the three-city trip south, is a town of over 95,000 people located in Puglia. It is well-known for its Baroque architecture, a style that began in the late 16th century and is often characterized by large proportions, twisting columns, theatrical effects, bronze and gilding, and extensive use of tromp-l’oeil.
We entered the historical center via Porta San Biagio (St. Blaise Gate).
and were immediately met with visions of baroque architecture.
The Chiesa di Santa Croce, (the Basilica), was begun in 1353 and eventually completed by 1695.
The church has a richly decorated façade with animals, statues, grotesque figures and vegetables, and a large rose window.
Side altars are adorned with an abundance of Baroque columns and theatrical effects,
while the chapel of St. Antonio is a great example of gilding.
Lecce is a city where old meets “new”:
The Roman 2nd century amphitheater was able to seat more than 25,000 people. It is now half-buried because other monuments were built above it over the centuries. The theatre is currently used for different religious and arts events.
The biggest surprise came when we found out our hotel, Torre del Parco, is one of the medieval symbols of Lecce. It was erected in 1419 by the then-18 year old prince of Lecce, Giovanni Antonio Del Balzo Orsini.
The tower, standing more than 75 feet, is surrounded by a ditch in which bears (the heraldic symbol of the Orsini del Balzo) were reared.
The whole complex was the seat of Orsini’s tribunal and of a mint, and after Giovanni Antonio’s death, it became a residence for the Spanish viceroys. Over the intervening years, and with the addition of acreage, it functioned as many historical places, including a grand tribunal, a palazzo, and even a prison.
From 1992 – 2006, the current restoration took place and it was reopened as a small private hotel, banquet facility, spa, meeting center, and just wonderful place to relax.
We visited the tower and were surprised by what we found…
a chapel,
modern meeting space,
small banquet rooms,
and an interesting antique carriage. (Thanks, Susan, for posing.)
The bridge from the tower to the hotel facilities crosses one of the main roads in town,
and provides several spaces for relaxing and wine sipping.
The hotel grounds, complete with palms and flowers everywhere, were a total surprise.
After sight-seeing all day, and since it was our last night, we decided to “eat in” and enjoy the surroundings.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit the spa, but the made-to-order breakfast and freshly squeezed blood orange juice were perfect for our last morning.
Alberobello Trulli, Matera Caves, and the loveliness of Lecce, three amazing locations in southern Italy offering thousands of years of history, beauty and intrigue – so very worth a visit.
Ciao,
Judy