On April 6, Len and I arrived in Paris. We had been there before, but this time I was particularly inspired to follow “footsteps” of my maternal grandparents, Salvatore and Serafina. They had travelled through Italy from south to north then took a “fast” train to Paris.
Similar to my paternal grandfather, Alexander, my maternal grandfather, Salvatore, also wrote wonderfully detailed and interesting letters of their journeys, addressed to my mother and her siblings, and some fortunately passed on to me.
They arrived in Paris from Italy by train. It was August, 1952, he in his 60’s, she in her 50’s. Their love of life, sense of adventure, and openness to new experiences continues to amaze and inspire me in my travels and writing. And this is what led me to the Moulin Rouge.
“Took in the high spots by day, then joined an excursion tour to see Paree by night. Boy oh Boy! what we saw of Paree after sundown was simply torrid. Mother let out a yell when one of the dancers in the second cabaret discarded her last vestige that had everybody there turning around and laughing. The fourth and last of the cabarets visited on the excursion tour, the Tabarini, was of such magnificence and class that even though someone might construe the show as indecent, I can honestly call it artistic.”
Salvatore Ferrara letter
With this in mind, we opted for the dinner and show. Dinner guests arrive at 7 p.m. for the 9 p.m. show. A dress code is enforced.
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There are two French gourmet meal choices to select from in advance, each three courses with wine or champaign. The dinner is served with incredible precision, yet we never felt rushed even though hundreds were being seated and served. The room was incredible, with so much to see in every direction.
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An orchestra and two singers accompany the diners and during this time, photos are still permitted.
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Some interesting facts:
- Moulin Rouge, meaning Red Mill, was founded in 1889 as an extraordinary cabaret by Joseph Oller and Charles Zidler. Its nickname was, “Le Premier Palais des Femmes” (The First Palace of Women.)
- Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized its dancers in his posters.
- 10 years after a disastrous fire destroyed the theatre in 1915, it was rebuilt.
- The theatre seats 850 guests per performance.
- The current show is called Feerie, runs nightly at 9 and 11 PM every day.
- The team consists of 400 people, 100 artists, 18 dressers and 60 dancers. Female dancers are a minimum of 5.9”, male 6’1”.
- Dancers must be trained in classical dance and attend weekly classes.
- Three casting sessions are held annually where 600 dancers complete for as few as two vacancies.
- Each show requires 1000 outfits, crafted in workshops that have been used for years.
- Each dancer makes 10-15 costume changes per show in roughly 90 seconds and returns to the stage.
- Approximately 800 pairs of shoes in various sizes are required.
- The Moulin Rouge is still considered one of Paris’ best known tourist attractions.
At precisely 9 p.m., ALL LIGHTS OUT and the performance begins. Here’s a short link if curious:https://youtu.be/xw9__-2CSXc
©Moulin Rouge Website
Was it worth it? We certainly thought so. The multi-level artistic facility, hundreds of small red glowing table lamps, the sheer spectacle of talented dancers, ornate intricate costuming, incredible precision on and off stage, and best of all, imagining my grandparents there so many years ago, all made for a once in a lifetime most memorable experience.
Ciao,
Judy
Blogging In Italy 